My sway bar is connected to the chassis at two points and two the diff at two points, how can only disconnecting one side be all you need?
My sway bar is connected to the chassis at two points and two the diff at two points, how can only disconnecting one side be all you need?
GQ Snorkle Lockers front n rear
sorry i don't follow
GQ Snorkle Lockers front n rear
If you look at a swaybar, it connects each end of the axle together in relation to the chassis.
So when one wheel goes up, the swaybar trys to lift the opposite wheel up, likewise when one goes down, it tries to push the opposite wheel down. So if you disconnect one side, it can no longer act upon the opposite side.
The factory disconnect is basically a long rod connected to the chassis at the top and the swaybar at the bottom. In the middle of this rod is a machined groove which a set of spring loaded jaws (in the disconnect mechanism) lock into when the sway bar is in use. Pull the lever and the jaws disconnect from the groove and the rod can slide up and down.
The issue with the factory disconnect is that the amount the disconnected side can move without acting upon the diff is limited by the length of this rod. So getting not only an extended link, but one that is taller as well (think about is as extendeding it on either side of the locking groove), will allow it to travel up/down more before it hits the stops on the disconnect and starts acting on the diff.
Sorry of that does not explain it too well..cant work out exactly how to put it into words.
Last edited by doka404; 11th April 2015 at 08:44 PM.
89gqpatrol4x4 (11th April 2015)
I had a factory disconnect in my gq and removed it when i fitted a three inch lift. Just figured that when one side is still connected as such it would not flex as much as if both sides disconnected.
GQ Snorkle Lockers front n rear
Theoretically with the standard length disconnect and lifted suspension it will limit the travel as the disconnect is only a certain length with stops on the top and bottom. But if you make a new longer rod, then you can increase the amount of travel in the swaybar before it hits the stops. Probably never be able to achieve the same results as if you had no swaybar (depending on the lift), but like everything there is always a trade off.
Personally I prefer just pulling the lever rather than climbing under the car to disconnect the swaybar. And its even better after a day out on the tracks to just twist the lever and instant swaybar while everyone else is back under their muddy cars trying to reconnect things
Its also handy when you are traveling on effectively 2wd tracks between the harder parts, where you can quickly connect the swaybar again and then just disconnect it when needed.
Last edited by doka404; 11th April 2015 at 08:51 PM.
gday mate, welcome aboard