Hi, just about to do an oil change on my new gu series 3 with zd30 engine I have the original specs for it from the book that come with car but was wondering what you guys think due to age of engine and what might be better.
Hi, just about to do an oil change on my new gu series 3 with zd30 engine I have the original specs for it from the book that come with car but was wondering what you guys think due to age of engine and what might be better.
Always good for a conversation when you ask about oils. I use Penrite HPR10 10W40 and the capacity is 8.5 ltrs, If you do filters or course its a bit more. Just coming up on 190000kms BTW.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
markstevo (19th March 2015)
I have been using (for a number of years now) - Castrol Edge - 5w-40 - fully synthetic - following advice from Berrima diesels who I consider a good source of advice for diesels
Castrol Magnatec Diesel 15w40 here....
Penrite 5-40 here
no oil leaks at all
motor done 220K
Last edited by threedogs; 20th March 2015 at 11:36 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Valvoline 15W40 when I had the ZD30
Seemed like a good idea at the time
Yea penrite aussie owned good oio and have been told to use the same my zd30 has done 260000 I do a oil change every 5000
Ok stupid question but there seems to be a fair difference between 5w 40 - 15w 40. What advantages do each of them have over disadvantages? Or is it just preference? I have 170k kms on clock & last service was 166k so im thinking do/ should it be serviced every 5k kms or 10k kms? I have heard mixed opinions so far! Ps Just bought it 2006 GU IV ST!
Ok, to answer this question properly needs a degree in science and about three days but;Originally Posted by Dman2603
As oils heat up, they generally get thinner. Single grade oils get too thin when hot for most modern engines which is where multigrade oil comes in. The idea is simple - use science and physics to prevent the base oil from getting too thin when it gets hot. The number before the 'W' is the 'cold' viscosity rating of the oil,often called the Winter rating, and the number after the 'W' is the 'hot' viscosity rating. So a 5W40 oil is one that behaves like a 5-rated single grade oil when cold, but doesn't thin any more than a 40-rated single grade oil when hot. The lower the 'winter' number (hence the 'W'), the easier the engine will turn over when starting in cold climates.
oils.jpg
Given our climate, there is pretty much no diference between a 10W or 15W lower oil, and as both 40 and 50 oils perform to 50*, It doesn't make much difference in WA. Get the best priced quality oil either 10W40 or 15W50 you can afford. If you are going on a desert run or in snow country or very long hot or cold runs you may want to use a more specific rated oil for the duration.
Don't mix synthetic and mineral oils. I don't mix brands unless I have to.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Dman2603 (21st March 2015), Woodsta1704 (27th March 2015)
I always run genuine Nissan oil after 235000 bearing look like new same about the glow plugs
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