Help! Urgent!

[happygu]

It will seem a little underpowered compared to a passenger vehicle, and also the diesel puts down its power differently ..... you probably need to adjust your driving style a little for the diesel, and then you will love it

[outback]

Il see how the car goes getting to Alice and decide from there

You are on a new leaning curve.

It will seem a little underpowered compared to a passenger vehicle, and also the diesel puts down its power differently ..... you probably need to adjust your driving style a little for the diesel, and then you will love it

Best torque about 2500 rpm . You need to do the work in the range 2400 - 2700 rpm. Max torque.

You are not driving a passenger car so it will take a bit to learn the new system and driving style.

[threedogs]

Yeah mate shoot Mudski a PM he sells all you need, which is basically a NADS kit,
You will require a Boost and an EGT gauge in a pillar pod or similar.
then you'll need an EGR blocking plate, a manual boost control vavle oand a needle valve.
All this plus a Provent 200 catch can,
What condition is your IC is it oily ? jf it is chances are its leeking therefore unable to hold boost.
thus the problems begin, but easily sorted

Did you get to keep your old alternator and pulley assbly ?

[BigRAWesty]

Ok quick did on google didn't find those codes but the closest one is of no help any way

0103 Coolant temp sender 0104 Vehicle speed sensor[/FONT] 0203 Throttle pedal switch 0208 Overheating Fault (Cooling Fan control) 0234 Turbo Over boost 0301 Engine ECU 0402 Fuel temperature sensor 0403 Throttle pedal position sensor 0406* Intake air volume VNC system 0407 Crankshaft position sensor 0502* Battery voltage 0504 Auto Trans communication line 0505 No faults detected 0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1) 0701 Injection Pump - cam ring position sensor 0702 Injection Pump - TDC pulse sensor 0703 Injection Pumpcommunication line 0704 Injection Pump - spill valve 0705 Injection Pump - Circuit malfunction, poor fuel quality, Pump Control Unit Failure 0706 Injection Pump -spill valve 0707 Injection Pump injection timing control 0802 Engine ECU (Barometric Pressure Sensor) 0804* Engine ECU 0807 Stop lamp switch/circuit 0901 Engine ECU (calculation malfunction) 0902 Engine ECU relay (incorrect voltage from relay to ECU 0903* Engine ECU (internal signal processing malfunction) 0905 Turbo Pressure (Intake air pressure sensor) 1003 EGR volume control valve 1004 Injection Pump - fuel cut out system 1401 NATS locked 1402 NATS locked 1403 NATS locked 1404 NATS locked 1405 NATS locked 1406 NATS locked 1407 NATS locked 1408 NATS locked * These codes do not illuminate the Check Engine warning lamp.

[BigRAWesty]

So you mentioned under powered?? A few things come to mind especially if you don't have nads. And the main one I can think of is the maf sensor. These get dirty with the egr setup and can be cleaned. Again mudski sells the cleaner as do most good auto shops. How it's done?? No idea but I'm sure someone has done a how to thread.

[dpetersen]

Will look at cleaning the maf soon. It went pretty good today, no issues at all, no engine lights so can't complain.
Everything else you guys listed all sounds great but what is it all worth? Cash is tight at the moment, havnt worked for nearly 10 weeks due to the wet season. The car is 12 years old and has 285000 on it, ideally I'd like to keep it long term and I do mainly highway ks not too a whole lot of really rough 4wding, that's what work cars are for!

[dpetersen]

Oh and a heads up for anyone with the same model; the dealer said there was a recall a few months ago for them only if there is a passenger side airbag fitted. Something to do with them failing.

[BigRAWesty]

Will look at cleaning the maf soon. It went pretty good today, no issues at all, no engine lights so can't complain. Everything else you guys listed all sounds great but what is it all worth? Cash is tight at the moment, havnt worked for nearly 10 weeks due to the wet season. The car is 12 years old and has 285000 on it, ideally I'd like to keep it long term and I do mainly highway ks not too a whole lot of really rough 4wding, that's what work cars are for!

A maf clean is the cost of the cleaner.
I'm pretty sure mudski mentioned around $400 for the nads setup and then gauges is up to you. They range from $50 to 200+

[Rock Trol]

You also need the security key (Allen key style with hole in center) to take the MAF sensor out (on CRD's anyways). I bought a kit from REPCO for $20 and it has all sorts of shapes and sizes. Works well with Rhino gear as I can put the end in a drill or screw driver handle. That and a can of MAF cleaner should be around $40 bucks all up.

To take the plug off once the screws are out you need to gently push the plastic tab on the underneath of the plug downwards (CRD) and it comes straight out. It's a little hard to see as there is not a lot of room so if you just try and pull on the plug to get it out it wont move far. Once you have done it once its very simple.
That reminds me, I have another job to do on the weekend.

[dpetersen]

Got to alice today and went all good! No engine lights. Is it possible that my mechanic and the Nissan deal got the code wrong and the engine light was due to low battery voltage from the alternator rather then the over boost on the turbo?