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Thread: Dual Dawes Setup

  1. #11
    Legendary big_fletch's Avatar
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    Running the duel dawes setup has a bigger advantage on a vehicle with quite a quick spool rate, I used too run a duel dawes system on my last patrol and running the low boost at 10psi max around town saved more than 1ltr-100. I found running the higher boost setting on the freeway had a better fuel consumption then the low setting.
    I have a single dawes in my troll now set for 18psi max and have the spool almost spot on.

    Drove too trarlgon last week and averaged 11.5ltrs/100.. Not bad on 33's with 2" lift and roofrack
    Last edited by big_fletch; 16th November 2014 at 10:09 PM.
    Qualified Auto-Electrician
    Apprentice Sparky

    Dont own a Patrol or any 4WD at the moment, hopefully will change into the future

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    Dr Gary (17th November 2014)

  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    So you would use the lower value boost if touring for example.
    TBH never thought high boost meant high fuel consumption.
    anything to save on fuel has to be a good thing eh,
    Do you know your fuel figures now for comparison?
    I suspect higher boost will use more fuel than low boost (throttle need to be wider open to activate), BUT if boost is too low there are EGT issues. However the higher boost is not why more fuel is used--that happens if the speed increases anyway.
    I would NOT use low boost cruising-just let TPS determine high or low at 1.6 volts. If I back off, high boost is turned off.
    I completed a 7,000 km trip through QLD, NT, and SA in some pretty bad conditions with a fairly heavy load and roof rack. Overall was 12 l/100. That is about the same as I get around town now.
    We shall see !!!
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

  4. #13
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    Mine are set at low boost 12 psi high boost 18psi. Depending on conditions I found that keeping low boost on (I have over-ride switch where I can force either mode or automatic via TPS) on cruising will save as much as 1-1.5 L per 100 km. I also force low boost mode when engine is cold.

    There is this strange thing about GU 4, where I have better economy in the city than on the open road and I have heard from the others the same thing. (GU4 owners)

    It works with needle closed as well so I have very aggressive spool up and handy low to mid range torque doing it this way.

    Regards

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    Dr Gary (20th November 2014), mudski (20th November 2014)

  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumcajs View Post
    Mine are set at low boost 12 psi high boost 18psi. Depending on conditions I found that keeping low boost on (I have over-ride switch where I can force either mode or automatic via TPS) on cruising will save as much as 1-1.5 L per 100 km. I also force low boost mode when engine is cold.

    There is this strange thing about GU 4, where I have better economy in the city than on the open road and I have heard from the others the same thing. (GU4 owners)

    It works with needle closed as well so I have very aggressive spool up and handy low to mid range torque doing it this way.

    Regards
    Sounds like I should have at least one switch to disable high boost--fairly simple to do and worthwhile just to see any difference. I will keep data flowing as I get stuff completed.
    Cheers to all
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

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