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Thread: EGT temprature range.

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    So I'm in the market now for an EGT gauge but just wondering everyone's thoughts on digital vs needle gauge?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtz View Post
    My CRD sits around 380-450 whilst driving 100km/hr at 10psi. The probe is post turbo in the dump pipe. Driving up the SE freeway out of Adelaide, it quickly climbed to 650-680 whilst doing 80km/hr - Overdrive off. Soon as I crest the top, it plummets back down.

    I thought this was fairly normal behaviour?? perhaps not! I have DP Chip and 2.75" exhaust
    This is the very issue of the factory turbo control. My car had exact same temps prior to manual boost . Now, sits 250-350 normal driving, 400 uphill, or if I push it MAX I will see is 450.
    2005 TD42TI

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    Quote Originally Posted by Golioth View Post
    hey guys. I was just wondering where you bought your egt and boost gauge kits from? I have seen some cheap ones going on ebay, but not sure if the quality is there that I will need for them to last.

    Also, should I go digital or analogue gauge?

    any help would be appreciated
    Cheers
    My gauges came from Auber.com in the US. Gauges are around $80 each, plus EGT probe and boost sensor. PM to me if you need specifics.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

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    I am he, fear me the evil twin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by harrymoto View Post
    So I'm in the market now for an EGT gauge but just wondering everyone's thoughts on digital vs needle gauge?
    Speaking as an instrument engineering type person and in a very general sense the application usually decides which is best.

    Analog is best for:
    Rate of change or sweep of a changing parameter
    IE most tacho's are analog because the eye will instantly recognise how fast the RPM is changing or approaching redline.
    Panel scanning for "normal operating parameters"
    IE on an aircraft the analog instruments are fitted so that all the needles are, say, vertical if the reading is in the normal operating range. That means if a needle moves to say 11 or 1 o'clock it stands out immediately

    Digital is preferred for:
    Settings and logging
    IE variable range but setting a particular level within the range
    Resolution and size
    IE showing quite a high resolution of a level like, say, 88 KPH in a small display


    Now, either display will do both jobs so it is mainly to do with the ease of interpreting what is happening.
    That is essentially a question of "Can I glance at the instrument or indeed will it attract my attention if it is out of the norm or do I actually have to dwell and read the display?"

    A high resolution analog gauge also usually means large dia of the dial with lots of increments
    A digital display will often have an analog bar graph or LED's or whatever to attract attention

    Sooo, IMHO, preferred displays would be
    Analog - Tacho, EGT, Coolant IE how fast the needle moves due to the changing parameter is more relevant
    Digital - Speed, Trip Computer, Radio Freq, IE accurate resolution of the parameter is more relevant
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

  5. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to the evil twin For This Useful Post:

    AB (30th October 2014), Bigcol (30th October 2014), clawrence (30th October 2014), Dr Gary (2nd November 2014)

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    I can certainly see the sense in what you are saying. One advantage of digital is the ability to trigger an alarm and record results. Any idea if digital is any more or less reliable? Are the sensors different?
    Last edited by harrymoto; 30th October 2014 at 09:38 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtz View Post
    My CRD sits around 380-450 whilst driving 100km/hr at 10psi. The probe is post turbo in the dump pipe. Driving up the SE freeway out of Adelaide, it quickly climbed to 650-680 whilst doing 80km/hr - Overdrive off. Soon as I crest the top, it plummets back down.

    I thought this was fairly normal behaviour?? perhaps not! I have DP Chip and 2.75" exhaust
    Hi Newtz,

    We have different vehicles, but as a comparison my egt gauge doesn't get much higher than 400 degrees going up the freeway at the same speed as yourself. Would you be carrying a load or towing?

    Gary

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Mine hit a max of 387c towing a camper on the weekend, at 100ks it floated around 250-300c. Not towing it's usually low 200's on the highway.

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    Supplier update for Gauges (etc)
    I have completed install of EGT and Boost gauges, as well as dual battery monitoring. I am using Digital (Auberins.com) gauges, no flicker, easy to program and I can trigger an alarm for high or low readings. I can check the latest high and low readings since last look The company has been EXTREMELY helpful with advice and trouble shooting. A big tick from me.
    I have received the Dawes dual system components (not installed yet) but found Darren Dawes (dawes-devices.com--also threebarracing.com) both helpful and knowledgable. Very quick to respond to questions. Another big tick.
    GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
    "Smart people know what they don't know"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    This is the very issue of the factory turbo control. My car had exact same temps prior to manual boost . Now, sits 250-350 normal driving, 400 uphill, or if I push it MAX I will see is 450.
    I have a similar setup myself mine being a steinbauer but I can get over 600 pushing into it I reckon 700 not out of the question either. I think I need to have a go at this dawes and needle. but hodge is your I/c standard as that's my next upgrade.
    Last edited by kevin07; 8th November 2014 at 09:50 PM.
    07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex, SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.


    92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella


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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin07 View Post
    I have a similar setup myself mine being a steinbaurer but I can get over 600 pushing into it I reckon 700 not out of the question either. I think I need to have a go at this dawes and needle. but hodge is your I/c standard as that's my next upgrade.
    I have an aftermarket Dieselsmart exchange I/C unit. I replaced mine because it was starting to leak.
    My dawes / needle setup was in the car before the intercooler was replaced, and that helped the EGT's a lot. New intercooler did margionally drop the EGT's all around, especially how fast it cools down, after you've backed off the throttle. My next bolt on, is definitely the larger scoop. That will help spread the incoming air across the whole surface of the I/C.
    2005 TD42TI

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