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Thread: Tips on getting a stuck brake line nut free...

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Tips on getting a stuck brake line nut free...

    I have bought some new extended braided brake hoses. I though to replace then all as they have been there since new, and I will do them when I do my rotors. But the nut on the front brake line (front diff to chassis) against the chassis is well stuck and last time I tried to undo it, to replace the hose with a new rubber hose, the spanner was slipping on the nut and has started to round off the nut. So I left it at that. Now I need to attack it again. As I can see me in the end using vice grips to undo it and totally destroying the nut.

    Any tips?

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Vice grips. She's farked anyway Mark. Vice Grips will do it easy then replace it.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    I might even have one. Post a pic if the part you need and I will have a look over the weekend.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    See if you can get hold of a split ring spanner. They have a bettergrip than a normal spanner. Available from good tool shops.

    splitring1.jpgsplitring2.jpg
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    I take it the line has no pressure in it so a bit of heat wont work to expand the fluid into the thread .How much work to take the line out cut and reflair the end ,failing that lots of CRC and small stillsons but you will probability twist the line .Its rust in a stretched thread is my guess .
    U have 4 choices in life :U can like it; lump it; love it or shove it, take your pick and stick to it !

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Vice grips. She's farked anyway Mark. Vice Grips will do it easy then replace it.
    Easier said than done I think. The entire line will need to be replaced. And from what I can see, it runs back along the chassis and to the proportioning valve or it does a turn and goes up to the master cylinder. I will have a look on the parts program to see I think...
    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    I might even have one. Post a pic if the part you need and I will have a look over the weekend.
    Yeah I can't just replace the nut, the entire line will need to be changed.
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    See if you can get hold of a split ring spanner. They have a bettergrip than a normal spanner. Available from good tool shops.

    I will go down and get me one of those I think... Thanks. The hex is not too badly damaged as I stopped after a couple of slips on the hex. That spanner will hopefully still go on.
    Quote Originally Posted by dads tractor View Post
    I take it the line has no pressure in it so a bit of heat wont work to expand the fluid into the thread .How much work to take the line out cut and reflair the end ,failing that lots of CRC and small stillsons but you will probability twist the line .Its rust in a stretched thread is my guess .
    I just soaked it in CRC now. Lets hope she free's up. I don't really want to be cutting it.



    What a PIA this will be. I can see it...No room at all from above too...
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    Last edited by mudski; 22nd October 2014 at 11:48 AM.

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    If you go the split ring spanner road pay for the best you can afford with the most meat around the head or your knuckles and the nut will suffer.Just asked the boys and they reckon the best buy would be Sid chrome or SP not Bluepoint or Snapon .or a crows foot https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...LgLc7xFy5LmUBA
    Last edited by dads tractor; 22nd October 2014 at 12:15 PM.
    U have 4 choices in life :U can like it; lump it; love it or shove it, take your pick and stick to it !

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    Patrol Freak Parksy's Avatar
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    Does it still have a decent flat on it? If so, put the spanner on and using a small hammer, gently tap the spanner to loosen, but being cognisant in maintaining the flat on the nut.
    IMO and should be taken with a grain of salt.

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    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parksy View Post
    Does it still have a decent flat on it? If so, put the spanner on and using a small hammer, gently tap the spanner to loosen, but being cognisant in maintaining the flat on the nut.
    Not sure mate. Its very hard to see it from the top. But I will give it a shot though. I just don't want to totally wreck it and then be without wheels. I don't know about heating it up too, to try and free it a little. I am flushing the system anyhow...

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Plenty of CRC, then drink beer, more CRC drink another beer.
    at this stage you can tackle anything, lol use vise grips as per pic.
    If poss try and shock the nut with a hammer,drink beer lol
    Then have a lie down [nanna nap] lol

    Small hand held butane gas burner may put out enough heat
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    Last edited by threedogs; 22nd October 2014 at 12:13 PM.
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