Good to hear there was no issue with the 22 after last weekend
Good to hear there was no issue with the 22 after last weekend
Would have been a faulty round I put 30 through it today with out cleaning it even tried rapid fire groups of 5 and not one issue with it.
Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward.
Whoever cannot take care of themselves without that law is both.
For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,
'If I live, I will kill you. If I die, You are forgiven.'
Such is the rule of honour.
megatexture (10th August 2014)
G'day all. I haven't owned rifles for over a decade. I met up with an old mate who has recently got his gun licence and is in the market for a rifle for rabbit, fox and vermin in general. He was asking my advice on which rifle is better and /or more economical to run. A .22 magnum or a hmr .17, 9, (if I remember correctly). I liked the 22, and have never used the.17. I told him about you blokes and that I would ask you for your thoughts on which is the better choice. Thanks in advance. Fire away...
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
love my .17hmr over my 22 anyday,in saying that I have a model 1a Lithgow single shot open sites..shoots straight as a dye(or whatever)my .17 will hit anything within 100mtrs,good for foxes cats and bunny's..have hit shags at over 200mtrs but that's just arse as there good for about 150 meters..i have a Marlin.17HMR but I have heard the savage mark2 with an ......acu-trigger?is the better option.
Watch this space, as there maybe a comment added soon
mudnut (16th August 2014)
In any moment of decision, the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
After most of my shots I like to check for no signs of breathing patterns.
In any moment of decision, the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
NP99 (16th August 2014)
I'm sure you guys can group and zero and by no means is the following meant to be showing off or being a smart alec. For those that don't know I have made a drawing and try to explain. It's a rough and ready way.
Decide at what range you want to be zeroed at. Remember if you are spot on at 100 metres you will be significantly higher or lower at other range distances due to trajectory.
Start by firing two warmer rounds down the barrel.
Now, using the same point of aim, doesn't matter where on the target as long as it's the same point of aim (poa), in this example the black dot on the lower part of the orange dot. Fire 5 rounds at the poa.
With some luck the 5 shot group should be pretty tight. If not keep trying, you don't need a wild shot high, low etc to stuff the grouping.
Once comfortable with your group sizing, you need to determine your mean point of impact (mpoi), to do this draw a verticle line down your left and right shots and a horizontal line over your high and low shots. Draw a X through the box created as in my red lines and where the cross middle is , is called the mpoi. The mpoi needs to be adjusted across to your poa. This might be 100mm right and 25mm low.
Your open sight or scope adjustments tell you 1 click equals 12mm for example so work out how many clicks to adjust as needed.
Fire another 5 round group and if all went well it should be firing your mpoi group over the poa.
This is the simply version and does not take into account weather or firers human factors of breathing, squeeze technique etc etc.
Hope this helps.....it's been a while, so if I forgot something, apologies.
1999 GU 4500 dual fuel
Il dado è tratto
clawrence (15th September 2014), Family4x4 (16th August 2014), growler2058 (16th August 2014), mudnut (16th August 2014), MudRunnerTD (16th August 2014)