EGR plate
I see four possible locations to fit an EGR plate: (1) On the rear of the exhaust manifold, (2) On the EGR valve housing inlet, (3) on the EGR valve housing outlet, and (4) on the inlet manifold --from the EGR valve housing outlet.
So which is OK, which will create problems, and which will not "work"
It seems to me the rear of the exhaust manifold makes sense--maybe heat issues??
Thanks
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
top of the EGR pipe, which would be your top LHS looking from the front
Well its that on a Di motor
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Dr Gary (16th August 2014)
The two considerations are really easy of fitting, and ease of detection.
Ill put a picture here of a blocking plate then
you can see the same shape on top of your EGR plate
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Dr Gary (16th August 2014)
Underneath the intercooler on the rhs of the motor you can see a silver cast alloy pipe come up and bolt to the manifold. This is the best spot. The lower spit you referred too, is easier to get to, having direct exhaust heat it will be harder to undo the nuts and a higher chance of braking them.Originally Posted by threedogs
Last edited by mudski; 17th August 2014 at 05:09 PM.
Dr Gary (16th August 2014)
You will see this shape
This plate suits CRD
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Is there a difference between CRD and TD30's. I've seen some with holes in them. Does it make a difference?
I think holes are put in on the CRD ones to help prevent throwing a fault code........ Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I can shed some light
The hole stops the ECU from seeing an occasional P0401 EGR fault code but because it allows gas past it kinda negates the purpose of the blanking plate.
Amongst the myriad of other handy things they do, a Scan gauge (or equivalent) will easily reset the code and the check engine light allowing you to run a full blanking plate.
Scangauge is the first thing I would buy for a CRD.
If nothing else they will show you exactly how much horseshit and urban myth there is on the www. regarding CRD ZD30's.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
ET,
thanks for the data at the meeting. Going to figure this out ifnit kills me..
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