How do you change an engine mount?

[nissannewby]

You don't take the 4 bolts off the side of the block and take the mount and upper bracket out as one?

Seems the engine needs to be lifted quite high to get the top stud clear enough to get it out, and do you do one at a time or remove both at once?

Thanks for your reply, I will have another look tomorrow and follow your instructions, it is a pain to fit spanners in the limited space.

A ratchet ring spanner seems best once they have been loosened.

You can and it will make it a little easier. The 4 bolts I mentioned hold the mount to chassis bracket. If you remove all the bolts in both the chassis side and the block side it will be easier. If you are gonna do the jack method I would just do one side at a time. Yes it does have to go quite high.

Its coming back to me now, I would remove the 4 bolts from the block side as well. I had to do this on the last gu I did. The time I didnt remove the engine bracket was on a body lifted GQ.

As for tools wobble extensions forca 1/2" ratchet do help.

[threedogs]

I've only done it in a Camry but I used a jack and a bit of rubber on the sump to protect it and just hold the load and proceed to remove it it was straight forward ... But that was a Camry lol

I wouldn't be lifting it buy the sump but by the edge as NN suggests

[macca]

You can and it will make it a little easier. The 4 bolts I mentioned hold the mount to chassis bracket. If you remove all the bolts in both the chassis side and the block side it will be easier. If you are gonna do the jack method I would just do one side at a time. Yes it does have to go quite high.

Its coming back to me now, I would remove the 4 bolts from the block side as well. I had to do this on the last gu I did. The time I didnt remove the engine bracket was on a body lifted GQ.

As for tools wobble extensions forca 1/2" ratchet do help.

What you are saying is making sense to me after looking at the job yesterday arvo. Access to the block bolts from the wheel arch looks easier. Will report back with my findings. Thanks again.

[Clunk]

On my tb42 I went with the lifting under the sump method, with a good piece of 4x2 between trolley jack and sump. Chocked the rear wheels and Jack stands under the chassis rails
Also had to undo the 4 bolts on the engine block as I wasn't able to lift high enough. Passenger side was a bitch but easier than the drivers side.

[macca]

Hard to see but it looks like the rubber is splitting and the safety shows sign of contact, especially compared to a new one

[macca]

Got one of the little buggers in this arvo, a pain but having some success.
Drivers side, the other "looks" easier and is the one that's split I think.
The one I took out looked split but isn't!
I know they are good for the Flinders' Trip later in the year.

[billyj]

do your self a favour and fit a superior unbreakable mount to the lhs at least, so many times stronger and about the same price as a std mount rubber. as above nice piece of timber under the sump to spread the load

[macca]

What a PITA at last they are in. The left was split at least 50%. So it did need replacing. Buggers of location to get bolts tight especially when laying on my back on garage floor. A hoist job for sure.
Any way they are done.

[jimspenz]

I removed almost al the other mounts first (I think I just left the upper left mount in) and then supported the engine with a jack.
This way you can move and 'rotate' the engine a little bit, and create more space at the rear mount. I could easily remove the mount this way and put the new one in.

[BigRAWesty]

Well sorry macca but I think the mounts were quite easy.
3 hours complete. Both.
I did spray all the nuts with penatreen last night, but they wernt overly tight anyway.

So being an NA td42 the passenger side was quite easy. All from above the guard.
I used a socket an wrench for all the bolts, then the 2 bottom bolts into the mount needed the wobble end.

Drivers side is more difficult but I did all mine from under the car.
Used a socket and wrench for all but 2 bolts again. The 2 bottom block bolts need a spanner.

All bolts require a 17mm socket or spanner. Was happy about that.

I undid the chassis mount first.
Jacked the engine with a piece of 130x35 timber about 300 long. It sat on the sump flange between the harmonic balancer, sump edge and drag link like a bug in a rug.
So once chassis bolts were out I lifted the engine until there was a bit of gap between mount and chassis.

Now undo the block bolts.
You'll notice the drivers side one has an extra price in it. I guess it's extra strength due to the Mount being lower to clear the pump.
Anyway remove the 2 across bolts and remove the spacer price from the mount.
Then you can remove the block bolts easy. All from underneath.

So once out replace the mounts and then install in reverse steps.
Block bolts first and tighten, then the spacer and tighten..
Then chassis bolts while still in the air.
Slowly lower the engine down and then tighten.

Anyway. I found my issue lol.
This one was the passenger side. And yes they are supposed to be one piece lol...

ForumRunner_20141224_174200.png

This one looks like it was about to go. Was moving enough to rub anyway so yea. Was time.

ForumRunner_20141224_174227.png

Anyway. Enjoy