Annoying rattle in the rear of the GU

[mudski]

When fitting new shockers that have a larger bore diameter that stick you need to grind down the bump stop plates on the diff housing as they do hit the shocker. This maybe it. Check the upper mounts too. Make sure they are done up enough...
One other thing is to check if the back of the exhaust is hitting the cross member. Where it comes our of the rear muffler and goes up and over the diff.

[apalsson]

Hi mudski,

I can't see any evidence the tail pipe is hitting the cross member. The more I hear it the more I think it's inside the cabin. Almost sounds like if you leave a glass bottle (that would be a beer bottle right? ) on the floor and it bangs up against a plastic cover as it rolls around!
I need to get someone to give me a hand getting the panel off the read barn door and see if a loom or a plug is lose and is banging up against the panels somewhere

[Hodge]

Hey Apalsson. When I had my large rear barn door trim off, to disconnect the annoying door switch... There is a wiring connector in there, that drove me nuts for a week after I unplugged the door switch, as this connector was banging up against metal inside and got very annoying..... Had to take trim off again and secure the connector better. Issue fixed.
Just a though this may be your issue too??
Here is the original post by me with a photo to show the connector...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post397910

[apalsson]

Hi Hodge,

Thanks for the suggestion. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if this is the exact problem.
I haven't been able to get into the door yet because I don't have a tool to pull the pins that hold the cover.
I assume I can just pry them out with a blade or similar?
Does the panel itself then just clip out?

[apalsson]

Here's an update to the never ending rattle saga!
Not that the outcome makes me feel particularly bright at all !!!

I have been through both barn doors, completely stripped down the panels, removed the plastic sheet and checked every piece of wiring and plugs.
All there was clean, well tied down and well plugged in. For a good measure, I tied better all wires that seemed like they could possibly swing and hit anything and taped around every plug that is clipped into the door frames.
Still, when I had done all of this, it was bothering me in the back of the mind that none of these could conceivably have caused such a noisy rattle!

Then I accidentally dropped a screwdriver into the rear floor and it rolled under one of the middle seat - which is exactly where I found what I believe to be the culprit
Remember the jack shaft that is clipped down into the floor just behind the pivot joint under the front of the middle seats?
Well, the bent end of it was right next to the plastic cover over one of those joints and when I rotated the shaft in the clip, it banged up against the cover - exactly the same noise that has been driving me bonkers for over two months!

Needless to say, I pulled out the clips and turned them 180 degrees. Now the shaft can't reach the cover however much you move it or rotate it!

5 Dollars say this was the issue!!!

[threedogs]

You paying $5 for us to agree or what

[apalsson]

You paying $5 for us to agree or what

Offering myself $5 if I'm right

[happygu]

Offering myself $5 if I'm right

I knew it would be the towbar ....... damn it all.....




Good fix if you have found it .....

[Big-Job]

Mate I had the same prob just after fitting the 285's and carrier spacer, it didnt start staight away but raised its head on a trip north to cairns a couple of weeks later and after stopping a few times to get access to the fridge. I recond its the doors from the extra weight of the 285 on the main door pulling the top of the door away slightly and thus not fully locking then rattling.

Most carrier spacers are adjstable vertically, so try lifting the spare higher on the mount to reduce the amount of pull down on the door.

One more thing, Make sure you close the doors firmly to ensure its locked at all points. Worked for me.

[apalsson]

Most carrier spacers are adjstable vertically, so try lifting the spare higher on the mount to reduce the amount of pull down on the door.

One more thing, Make sure you close the doors firmly to ensure its locked at all points. Worked for me.

These carrier spacers are most likely not much good for the rear door and the locking mechanism. In my hunt for the problem, I noticed the plastic coating on the top striker was worn through, so I put a couple of layers of tape on it