Dawes & Needle question...

[thebrod]

I'm no expert but I'll throw my 2 cents in just for the hell of it.....
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU? Maybe that will help????

Adam

[Hodge]

@Rumcajs
Mine is a manual. And this exact same thing had happened before so I don't think I've touched anything else. Last time Mudski fine tuned it, and took it for a spin and got it spot on. He's away for work at the moment.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Forum Runner

[Hodge]

I'm no expert but I'll throw my 2 cents in just for the hell of it.....
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 20 mins to reset the ECU? Maybe that will help????

Adam

Tried it mate , no change. Good call but.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Forum Runner

[threedogs]

Do you have a Scan-Gauge ?
I'm with RJ close the needle then set your boost again,
then only use one flat of the nut at a time to fine tune it.
Re check all fittings as RJ says you may have knocked something loose
EG a hose off the vac solenoid etc

[Hodge]

Checked and rechecked all that few times. If something was not right , I'd have issues across all gears.

My issue is once in 4th gear. Just takes forever to spool up to a decent power band. Once at the mid range, for instance at around 2700-3000,revs in 4th it has power... And I take the 3rd all the way to 3500,before changing to 4th so not like I change early or anything.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Forum Runner

[Sir Roofy]

mate you have to reset the dawes valve bring it back to 10 or 12 psi or 14
that's about 3 threads left on the dawes body keeping in mind all 3l motors
act differently then open your needle valve till the arm drops at the turbo
then screw it back till it lifts back up then add a tad more
see if this helps ,then get it to where you want by turning the dawes in
bit by bit very fine
and lift the right boot a bit seems a bit hard

[Rumcajs]

@Rumcajs
Mine is a manual. And this exact same thing had happened before so I don't think I've touched anything else. Last time Mudski fine tuned it, and took it for a spin and got it spot on. He's away for work at the moment.
....

Oops, the way you described the things it sounded like auto box.

Checked and rechecked all that few times. If something was not right , I'd have issues across all gears.

My issue is once in 4th gear. Just takes forever to spool up to a decent power band. Once at the mid range, for instance at around 2700-3000,revs in 4th it has power... And I take the 3rd all the way to 3500,before changing to 4th so not like I change early or anything.

Well, this really sounds like the spool up is just retarded a bit too much and the drop in RPMs when shifting to 4th causes it to back off too much. I still don't understand why only in 4th but you need to start to looking at both needle valve and Dawes valve as separate circuits. So either one taken out of the equation. So either close needle valve fully (that should give you max spool up rate or take Dawes to max boost rate. You can also just put vac line directly on the turbo actuator and observe the difference.

I wonder if the Dawes is not partially stuck open (ball not sealing up because it is full of oil)

Next time Mudski fiddles with it get involved yourself as well.

Cheers

[Hodge]

I was right there when he done it, watching him do it. And it's no different to the way I have been doing it prior and after that.... Unless there is a trick to it, I doubt it though.

Will consult with him.

[Rumcajs]

Well, you need to pull the Dawes valve apart as it seems the fiddling of yours has disrupted something and now it possibly leaks/bleeds slowly/too early. If you have means of checking for that on the bench before you gonna dismantle it, that would be great.

Cheers

[Paule]

Hodge, what is your max boost now? Does it feel like limp mode in 4th or 5th? If so back your needle valve just a bee's, not even one number