I can never understand the reasoning for a cat on a diesel motor in the first place
I can never understand the reasoning for a cat on a diesel motor in the first place
I'm tasmanian mate I have 2 heads and not one brain amongst them, RTA dont give a rats about 4x4's here, they just interested in trucks
2011 GU8 ST 3.0 CRD, ARB Bullbar with IPF spotties, scrub bars and side steps, Snorkel, Dual Battery system, Waeco fridge, Turbo Timer, ARB Roof Rack with 5 IPF spotties across the front, Custom full Leather Bucket seats, DPchip, 3" Taipan exhaust, ARE Intercooler & scoop, Autron EGT/Boost and dual volt gauges, ARB front locker.
Had the IC preasure tested and it appears ok, so ive installed the dawes kit and blanking plate, ive followed the paperwork that Mark sent with the dawes, but am a little confused, it says wind the needle valve right open so no flow restrictions, I assume that means open so air can pass through? which I did, I wound the dawes in a tad till I couldnt hear the ball bearing rattling, I then went for a drive and the boost gauge didnt even move, so I pulled up and closed the dawes a little more, but still no reading on the gauge, so pulled up again and wound the needle valve right in then slightly out to roughly 1/4 inch and this time the boost gauge shot up to around 22 PSI, so pulled up again and wound out dawes a little and got back to a tad under 15psi, but have been hitting limp mode at 2700rpm, cruising at 100kph with accelartion sits just under 10 psi,can someone give me some quick guidence please where i'm going wrong
Back it of till you hit 12 psi or less think mark runs at 10psi
ive just disconnected the dawes valve and I can pretty easily suck air through it even when done up tight is that normal?
Don't no if that's normal as I've never tried. If you are getting limp mode you need to back your Dawes valve off. With your needle valve you set it up while idling so the turbo actuator just moves off it's stop
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
Rickie3 (5th April 2014)
O.k. With some cars you need to wind in the needle valve right down then back it off until the rod on the turbo drop about 1/4inch first. Whilst the car is idling. Then try again with your dawes. I have found that some engine react differently to others. As i found out with Paule's car.
Just read what you have done its its good so far. If your hitting limp mode open the dawes up more until your just undet that threshold of limp mode. Then you can re adjust the needle valve.
Unfortunately some ECU's will only accept a lower boost. Some will only accept 14psi, some will accept 18psi. As Paule's did.
The only ways around this is to increase your air flow volume. By using a k&n air filter, which I do, a hi flow air box lid and maf housing, (expensive but very effective), snorkel, or a maf voltage modifier. Never tried the last one as I have the hi flo lid and housing.
Oyu will eventually get there and find the sweet spot. Takes a bit but you will get it.