MYSTERY ISSUE. Doing my head in. Please Help!

[Evo]

I was also under the impression the TB45s didn't. Thought it was just the 3ltr wheezers

Yes, that's what I heard, 3.0, but also 2.8.

Picking up some manual locking/freewheeling hubs with gear to convert my auto hubs over.
$150 isn't much to avoid auto hub issues in the future (if they are still ok now)

Evo

[Evo]

Ok,

So after the fancy diagnosing session, which cost $77, the issue has been somewhat narrowed down.
The mechanic recommended I get my engine mounts replaced as they are in need of it, as he said it seems to be the plating either side of the rubber (where the plates are bent to hook into each other) as there is basically no clearance here due to the rubber having collapsed a lot.
If there is still an issue, he recommends clutch next, and has told me that rest of driveline is good.
After hearing all this, I'm still not sure whether to believe what I'm told, but engine mounts are a cheap start, so fingers crossed.
And I'll need a clutch later anyhow, I have known this since last year, but the longer I can put it off, the better.
Plus I'll get onto the auto-manual hub conversion over the weekend hopefully.
With the locking hubs, I was going to use some medium strength loctite on the cap head bolts. Is this ok or what do you guys recommend?

Cheers

Evo

[mudnut]

Torque the bolts up to what the manual states and all should be good. I always run a very light bead blue sealant between the mating surfaces as well.

[Evo]

By blue sealant, I'm guessing RTV type? Like gasket goo stuff?

Evo

[mudnut]

Yep, but just a wee bit of sealant, as you don't want any to get into the mechanism. I wonder if you could jam something (wood or rubber) into the engine mount and take the Patrol for a spin, to see if the noise disappears?

[Evo]

Yep, but just a wee bit of sealant, as you don't want any to get into the mechanism. I wonder if you could jam something (wood or rubber) into the engine mount and take the Patrol for a spin, to see if the noise disappears?

The manual hub kit I'm picking up seems to have a round gasket???
No sealant required maybe?

I'll let you know tomorrow about the mount situation.

Evo

[rkinsey]

Gday Evo.

I have read this thread and I must say well done to you and everyone for diagnosing this issue. Although you havnt got to a solution yet, I am sure that you will.

I would like to offer an experience that I am experiencing on my Ford Explorer. I have a similar noise with it however it happens irregularly and cannot be replicated, it does happen every day and is getting worse. My issue is that the Spigot Bearing (or Pilot Bearing as it is also know) in the clutch assembly is buggered and needs replacing. This I am doing in the next two weeks after the part arrives from the US. So a new clutch kit with Thrust bearing and Spigot bearing are on the cards for me.

When the grinding noise happens it is quite loud and you can feel it through the clutch pedal and the steering wheel (and yes through my butt when in the drivers seat!)

Not sure if this helps you but thought I would offer it up for you to think about. Sounds like you have eliminated everything else.

Cheers,

Rob

[mudnut]

No sealant, then. I use a tiny bit of grease on each side of the gasket to stop it from sticking to the surfaces.

[Evo]

No sealant, then. I use a tiny bit of grease on each side of the gasket to stop it from sticking to the surfaces.

Now have a choice between HD AVM hubs or another billet type manual hub.
Which one to go for?
And are they a straight replacement for the auto hubs?

Evo

[Evo]

Apparently the billet ones require some egg ring? Sounds like making Sunday breakfast while woking on the Troll.
The HD AVM ones are apparently straight bolt on...
Does this sound right?
Also, the AVM have a longer warranty than the other ones, so kinda leaning towards the AVM...

Evo