EGR Valve and Boost Solenoid problems

[Samwise]

My son recently purchased his first Patrol...picked it up a week ago. Where he works he has no computer so I have set up this profile for him which he will look after when he gets back from the bush. He works on a property near Boomi NSW...about 80km's from Goondiwindi.

He took his truck into Ford/Nissan dealer at Goodiwindi after he noticed a significant reduction in engine power.
They checked it out and come up with the following error codes; (I spoke with the mechanic late yesterday and I wrote them down and I then found what they mean on the net).

These codes he cleared....
P0235 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0401 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
U1001 - is a communciation error - I think it is just related to the fact that other errors exist ??

This code still exists...
P1409 - EGR / Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

This is what he explained to me after clearing the error codes he found a split in the pipe (part of the Boost Solenoid) where a hose joins onto the 'Boost Solenoid'. He said the Boost Solenoid and the EGR Valve needs replacing at a cost of about $900 for parts plus labour.

I have read on the forum here about blocking the EGR valve. If this can be done then do we need to replace it at all. Obviously by the sound of it unless there is another way we will have to replace the Boost Solenoid.

My son drove back to the farm where he works after getting check done but he says that it has no guts and seems as though the turbo isn't working at all.

He is coming back to the Sunshine Coast on Monday for a few days and I am wondering is it okay to drive like it is as he is about 5 to 6 hours away.

Thank you in advance for any responses to my request.

Regards
Brian Mitchell.

This is where I looked up some/most of the error codes.
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

[threedogs]

might want to block the EGR and fit NADS to the patrol, PM Mudski for Plate,
Disconnect the battery for a while as well'
By fitting NADS you'll take the thinking away from the ECU. I would think it would be ok to drive.
ecu talk might be a good investment so you can reset all your own faults.
OH yeah and spray the MAF sensor that's controls heaps of stuff.
See what others say though Is it blowing black smoke[heaps]

[threedogs]

Try it in simpler terms, your error says EGR is stuffed, so IMO block it off so it is not in use.
disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour and while waiting spray the MAF sensor, when its all back together see how you go.
you will still need a new EGR if the OE one is split, good luck

[Samwise]

Thanks for that...
He's currently on his way to coast now and taking it easy....he's having to go slow, NO POWER !!!!

Will see what we can do tomorrow.

[mudski]

I just sent the OP a pm, and will explain it better for him tomorrow as explaining the NAD's is an essay in itself. Just had a massive day at work, had a beer and I feel like I've had ten.

[mudski]

Ok a bit late but three days in a row so far of 10-11hrs work is killing me... The Op wanted to know what NAD's was. So here goes, sorry if I go off topic, my candle is burning rapidly at both ends today...
NAD's Stands for
Nissan
Anti
Detonation
'system.
Whether its proven to actually stop the pin being pulled? Who knows. If the damage has already been done and its only a matter of time, the NAD's may just make the engine last that little longer. No one knows for sure... On a new rebuilt engine, I would assume you a grenade proof.
I have read many stories of people who have blown their engines now and most come up with different reasons, I think there is more than one factor for the pin to be pulled. From what I have seen, when the engine does go boom boom, its usually number 3 or 4 or both pistons have holed.
Reasons I have read are :

• Crappy Ceramic tipped glow plugs. The tip breaks free and plays ping pong in the cylinder. Get Metallic tipped plugs and be done with it.
• Over boosting issues. The amazing job the ECU does at controlling the boost. Not.
• EGR issues. the intake getting way too hot from those damn exhaust gases being sucked back into the air intake. Hence creating a way hotter than supposed to be combustion chamber
• Bad ECU's. I did read this a while ago but I don't think many agreed on it. some Patrols having dodgy ECU's which could have been stuffing with the air/ fuel mixtures
• Bad MAF's or Mass Air Flow sensor. Again, yeah it could be, but from my experience, you get a bad MAF the car will just run like a bag of poo.
• Short dip sticks in the early 2000's GU's. This has been rectified by Nissan though I believe.

There will be more reasons, maybe if others can input on this. But as a a whole I really don't know exactly what it could cause the bomb to drop. it could be a combination of things, but doing the NAD's is a damn good way of keeping your finger away from the pin on the grenade.

So what is involved in the NAD's.

• Dawes valve - This is to take away the ECU's control of boost, so you have no more fluctuations. You set the dawes to a maximum boost limit, E.g 16psi, and leave it. Very simple but very effective.
• Needle Valve - This controls the spool up rate of the turbo. Not a necessity of the NAD's as it serves no purpose in the prevention, but it serves a massive purpose in giving your ride greater acceleration. To me there is no point on a Di, and a CRD in not using both. Rumcajs made a good comment on this which says it all "There is no point for Dawes valve alone on CrD. ECU has the boost under control quite well. There is a point for Dawes and needle valve if you want better torque down low, improve power delivery and tractability" I couldn't agree more. This goes for the Di too. No point doing half a job...
• EGR blanking plate - Block that sh!t off. On any Diesel. Think of your air intake have bad cholesterol. This is what an EGR does to your engine. An EGR system on your engine is what Fish and Chips and Macca's is to your body. Block the thing and even take the time to remove the manifold and clean it all out. Your engine will thank you for it, when you take her for a drive afterwards.
• Catch Can - This is to filter the engine crank case vapours before it re enters the air intake. There are many on the market, the Provent 200 seems to be the flavour to have. I have one, its is great, it have a filter inside which can be removed and cleaned. I clean mine every 5000k when I do the service. I have just replaced it with a new filter now after a year. (6 services)
• Boost and Exhaust temp gauge (EGT) - These have to be installed prior to any on the above, well really only the Dawes and needle valve as you need the boost gauge installed to set the max boost of your ride.
• Glow plug timer - While I have not done this mod myself, many believe it's a given in the NAD's. The OEM relay leaves the glow plugs on for around five minutes after the car has started, so I have read and have been told. Way too long. A good way of burning of the tips and have them drop into the cylinder.

Well I'm buggered. I've kept it short for the OP but If there is any more info others want to add. Just say and I'll add it. I'm sure there's I've forgotten...