How-to-Bulletproof-Your-Nissan-Patrols-ZD30-Engine?

[AndrewC]

Hello forum members,

An interesting article, not sure if this has been posted before, any thoughts from members?

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Bul...ine&id=6845211

I am about to take delivery of a new GU series 9 with 50kms on the clock, and would also be keen on any feedback regards runing the engine in - so many varying thoughts across the industry about running in diesels!

Best regards,
Andrew

[BigRAWesty]

Yep.. Pretty much sums up NADS..
Covered heaps here.
As for running in, drive it how you would normally.

[threedogs]

x 2 with above occasionally red line it but never hold it in high revs.
Vary your throttle % imput
Change fluids and start fresh regardless what "they" say

[poindexter]

including this?

10. ZD30's need regular oil changes, every 5000k is recommended.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6845211

and recommended by who, Nissan says 15000kms for oil change in the service manual.

[MudRunnerTD]

including this? and recommended by who, Nissan says 15000kms for oil change in the service manual.

Plenty of owners are doing 5000km oil changes for long life combined with NADS. Nissan also say that there was Never a problem with their ZD30! Good ol Nissan! Nissan denied a problem with their bubbling Dashes too for many years, without the online forum communities they'd still be denying it.

My philosophy is if your going to keep your car for 300,000kms do the best you can. If you are going to flog it off by 50,000 then your less likely to care.

[krbrooking]

As most ppl would suggest to drop oil every 5k, I also try and change diff and gearbox oils every 10-15k.

[mudski]

5K is what I always do my ZD30 servicing by.

[Rumcajs]

The article seem to be incomplete, there are valid point but the most important of it is not mentioned at all. Major contributor to high EGTs which ultimately leads to failures especially on Di engines is the way the engine ECU control the boost in relation to EGR system. Its that inconsistent boost control especially when cruising (Most if not all ZD30s expire that way)on the highway which is the killer.

Another source of failures it seems is the incessant way the glow plugs are kept on after the engine has been started. The post glow period extends to insane 5 minutes. Fitting aftermarket timer to control this stupidity will greatly extend the life of glow plugs and avoids heat spots and cracking of the head.

I'd also argued that oil changes too frequent contribute to another problem that overfilling of the engine with oil which in turn causes it to breathe more.
ZD30 seems to drain oil slowly in to the sump so if one drops oil less than half an hour after being driven (normal situation for most service centers) and technician puts diligently 8.2 L of oil, sometimes even more just in case. This has been a fcuk up from early days when ZD30 had the oil starvation issue and Nissan fix was to increase the amount of oil and shorten the dipstick. Results are in, sump(Nissan never designed bigger sump or at least it never did suply it in Oz) designed to hold 5.6 L is now filled with 8.2 L or more. More oil in the sump more it splashes around, more it mixes with crankcase gases more of it comes out of breather more it mixes with EGR gases more it gunk up the intake.

I've been running an experiment where if I put 8.2 L of oil in the sump (after being drained overnight) I found more oil in the Provent than when I just put 7.5 to 7.7 L oil. I also noticed when I had disconnected the crankcase breather and vented to atmosphere it was breeding more.
I can also see the difference on the dipstick although that's just anecdotal evidence 7.5 L right on full marks, with 8.2 L way over it.

More important than frequency of oil changes is also how much oil and what type goes in. So putting in oil which is designed to last in heavy duty truck engine for 40,000 km (Delo 400) and than changing it after 5,000 kays is a waste. Certainly a cheap (I don't think so) insurance in some views but it ain't the oil which contributes to ZD30 pistons meltdown.


Cheers

[mudski]

You have valid points there mate but I see no need to drain the oil overnight.(just read your post again, I was an experiment) I do it when the oil is hot, or over warm. All the oil will drain out quick enough. When servicing, I would first drop the oil, leave the sump plug off and then remove the oul filter and remove and clean the air filter, maf and provent filter. By the time this is all done there's no more oil coming out of the sump and she's ready for rhe fresh stuff.
But eveyone does this their own way so its each to their own in this department.
Hey mate in regards to Nissan changing the sump capacity. When did this cone into effect? As I have a 2001 and my service book states to use the 8.2l not the other amount. So it must have been before mine.
Also I find I get more oil in the CC if I drive the car like I stole it. Or do more highway driving over city driving.

[the evil twin]

FYI I have an '07 CRD with over 150,000 K's on it.

Your getting a late model CRD so pretty much ignore all the non-CRD baggage from years ago.
No matter what you intend to use the vehicle for... Buy a Scangauge. Best $200 you'll ever spend on your ZD30 CRD. Doesn't affect warranty in any way.

Now, if you intend to work the vehicle fairly hard either off road or towing, say, weight above 1.5 tons...

Blank the EGR... the difference IE reduction to the oil contamination is amazing. Be wary of warranty issues

Chips... DO NOT chip the engine before you fit an EGT gauge.
I don't care what the chip manuf says, Nissan will immediately record the fact a chip has been fitted on their database then the fun begins.
In 6 years I have had no engine issues tho so cannot comment on whether Nissan would reject any warranty claims on engine parts.

Exhaust mods, help a tad on the factory tune

MAF, if you clean it every so often then you don't 'need' a catch can altho I agree they can be handy.
I do not have one as the couple of times I have pulled down the induction plumbing it has been quite clean (mine has an EGR block tho)

Dawes Valve/Manual Boost limiting.
I stress this is purely my opinion and happy that others may disagree...
I see absolutely no point on my experience in my vehicle with my mods.
I did adjust the VNT slightly after blocking the EGR but I have never seen any unusual boost patterns in my vehicle
At highway cruise and low engine loads and partial throttle the boost may hunt a few psi at most but as soon as any load comes on or the throttle is opened further the ECU holds the boost almost dead steady

The major faults or issues with mine have been...
Clutch x 2 (part paid by owner, part paid by Nissan)
Intercooler cracked (warranty)
Bubbly Dash (warranty)
Cruise Control hunts at around 100 KPH (no-one can fix it and Nissan point to my mods and shake their head... not worth fighting over)

Things to note... the CRD's run at a wider coolant temp range, EGT and Boost pressures than the non CRD's. I don't know why, they just do.
They also have really weird fuel consumption patterns but a Scangauge lets you manage that if you are just tooling around.
A ZD30 won't pull the skin off custard below 2200 RPM so get used to revving the sucker and using that gearbox.
Especially don't let them lug under load at low revs as the EGT goes North fast so you are doing more harm than good if you baby them

I LOVE mine to bits. Nicest Patrol to drive that I have ever owned altho the 4.8 at work was better and good fun too I'd never buy one