here is some good info on replacing fuel filter gu patrol also I thought the price for the primer was a bit too high can get an after market one from western filters a lot cheeper
When you replace a fuel filter on a 3.0 it is vital that you get all the air out of the system or you can over heat the fuel pump controller and cook it.
The guys at Diesel Australia have shown me the results of what happens and how it happens and I am working with them now on a replacement pump and controller that doesn't cost 3 grand so 3.0 owners will be able to breathe a bit easier.
I digress.
So to get all the air out.
When you remove the hoses from the filter housing to replace the filter make sure you block them tight to keep as much air as possible out while you replace the filter.
Undo the two bolts and remove the filter and housing head.
Unscrew the filter while holding the head in a vice. You'll probably need a good filter wrench to do this.
Fit the new filter checking that both seals are seated correctly. Replace the head and fit the hose to the fuel tank. Make sure it is clamped on firmly with no air leaks.
Prime the system until you get a full flow of diesel from the outlet of the filter.
Re-connect the hose to the diesel pump.
Try priming the system again. Keep pumping until it is too hard to press any more.
Have someone start the truck and keep priming while it starts and idles for 2 - 3 minutes to get all the little air bubbles out of the diesel pump passages.
What frys the controllers and pumps is that an air bubble gets trapped at the top of the pump and then the heat builds up at that point under the controller chip and it cooks.
Most fried 3.0 pumps are in fact mechanically OK so if the controller can be replaced and made talk to the ECU correctly for a couple hundred dollars 3.0 owners with fried pumps will be spared a couple of grand.
I didn't write this was from somewhere else
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