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Thread: Catch can and scan gauge

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    Catch can and scan gauge

    Guys n gals
    Just wanted to know about the following:
    I managed to get a catch can from Super Cheap. It does not have any membrane inside to catch all vapour. Is it recommended?
    Does as an gauge negate the need for gauges?
    I want to have another crack at putting in the blocking plate.
    I have a 3lt 2008 gu

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    Patrol Guru Drew's Avatar
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    I put a supercheap one in my Navara and filled it with stainless steel wool, it worked ok but on paddy I put a provent in, costs more but much betterer

    The scangauge is a nice bit of kit, but doesn't give you EGT's and well for boost it shows Manifold air pressure. I'm still looking at putting gauges in (unless convinced otherwise)

    I was hoping it would show tranny temp but nope

    Once I get them sorted I'll most probably hit ferret up for a cover plate etc.
    ------------
    2008 GU 3.0 CRD Auto - Life's too short to eat bad food.

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Fill the catch can with fine steel wool, Scan guage great Diagnostic tool, but I would recommend a pillar pod with boost and EGT guages fitted.
    Also you may want to fit a DAWES and needle valve, highly recommend for any 3lt owner. Pm Ferret regarding blanking plate, Plenty written on this subject.
    Great mod and cheap to give you peace of mind for whats happening under the bonnet,
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    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Thanks for the advise. Are all these mods recommended for the 3.0lt CRD too?

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    '07 CRD manual with 130, 000K's...

    I have an EGT plus a Scan gauge and thats it. Usual displays on the Scangauge are Coolant temp, Boost, Fuel flow and Volts. Personally, I don't have a need for anything else as mine is a manula but an auto g/box temp gauge might be handy for those who have 'em.
    I don't have a catch can as the couple of times I have cleaned out the intercooler it has hardly been worth the effort.
    I bought a dawes valve etc but ended up selling it as I never even fitted the sucker. A tweak on the VNT adjustment was all that was needed after 3 inch, Chip and EGR block.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Expert WYLD333's Avatar
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    Definatley install a boost n egt gauge, dawes n needle valve as stated above 4 peice of mind n better performance n lower egts. Dnt even bother putn the supercheap catch can on n buy a decent catch can like provent etc. Do it properly n do it once is my motto, if u buy 4 price ull end up replacing it anyway

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    More so the Di than the Cr, but I just love driving by guages instead of when red light comes on.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    What does the EGT gauge tell you and how do you drive to control this? Does boost and EGT go together? Sorry guys not so cluewy on mechanics

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Going up hill towing say, your EGTS will increase to possibly 600deg C, so just back off slightly to reduce your EGT.
    Called driving by your guages.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulvdw View Post
    What does the EGT gauge tell you and how do you drive to control this? Does boost and EGT go together? Sorry guys not so cluewy on mechanics
    Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) is a way of monitoring the combustion temps in the cylinders. In a Diesel when you start fooling with Chips and other mods it is possible to raise the combustion temps (not coolant) enough to seriously damage the engine. Pre Turbo is best but post turbo is easier to fit.

    If the EGT gets too high or for too long you back off or select a lower gear.

    Boost is the boost pressure that is provided from the Variable Nozzle Turbo. Unlike waste gated Turbos blow off valves etc etc most modern cars use variable nozzle (or vane) technology to regulate the boost pressure IE the ECU reduces the amount of boost by reducing the compression efficiency of the Turbo if boost gets too high.

    It is handy to 'monitor' your boost so you can see any abnormalities. Small high compression engines like the CRD love to be "on boost" IE operating in the rev range with high boost pressures and outside that range can't pull the skin off custard.

    Out of the box CRD vehicles are running from an ECU with known factory parameters so extra gauges are no big deal but as soon as you start chipping, exhaust mods, EGR blocks etc then the ECU isn't mapped for that and can potentially over fuel the engine or give you some very high boost pressure spikes.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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