6mm cable not enough for rear 12v sockets

[Yendor]

We'll, here's opening up a can of worms.

You will get a much better connection when the correct size lugs are crimped onto the battery cable using a good quality crimping tool.

Most people don't know how to solder correctly or have the correct equipment to do so. There is a little bit more to it then just heating up the lug with a blow torch and pouring the solder in.

As for crimping and soldering, yes it is a bit of an overkill, if the crimping is done correctly. If doing this I would recommend only allowing the solder to flow from the end of the lug/terminal to the end of the crimp. Don't allow the solder to flow past the crimp and down the cable.

My advice when planning something like this for your vehicle (if you are going to use B&S cable) is to work out the length of cable you require then drop into your local auto electrician and ask them to fit the lugs/terminals to the cable for you.

The above is based on the work practices I was taught and life experiences, my post is aimed at people who are not sure about the best way to approach this type of job.

I really don't want to get into a debate about soldering and crimping.

If you are happy soldering and have done so for years with no problems, then keep doing it.

After all, as long as the circuit works and you keep the smoke on the inside, then all's good.

[AB]

There is too much valuable info in this thread which may get lost...lol....This is the mother load of hijacked threads!!!

[gregs]

We'll, here's opening up a can of worms.

You will get a much better connection when the correct size lugs are crimped onto the battery cable using a good quality crimping tool.

Most people don't know how to solder correctly or have the correct equipment to do so. There is a little bit more to it then just heating up the lug with a blow torch and pouring the solder in.

As for crimping and soldering, yes it is a bit of an overkill, if the crimping is done correctly. If doing this I would recommend only allowing the solder to flow from the end of the lug/terminal to the end of the crimp. Don't allow the solder to flow past the crimp and down the cable.

My advice when planning something like this for your vehicle (if you are going to use B&S cable) is to work out the length of cable you require then drop into your local auto electrician and ask them to fit the lugs/terminals to the cable for you.

The above is based on the work practices I was taught and life experiences, my post is aimed at people who are not sure about the best way to approach this type of job.

I really don't want to get into a debate about soldering and crimping.

If you are happy soldering and have done so for years with no problems, then keep doing it.

After all, as long as the circuit works and you keep the smoke on the inside, then all's good.

Yendor, mate you won't get a debate out of me, I agree with your comments on this, especially taking it to an auto elecy to get the cables crimped as there are too many terminals/lugs out there that have been squashed using a screwdriver/chisel and hammer. This may work in an emergency but shouldn't be used as a permanent solution.

Greg

[bordertech]

Crimping then soldering or vice versa is a big no-no. Do one or the other but soldering should really be left for only joining small size cabling. There is bugger all or virtually no soldered connectors from factory anymore they are all crimped for a good reason. Been this way for years. A connector crimped with good crimpers using good quality connectors should last longer than the life of the car.

[Winnie]

When crimping larger cables... I bring it into work and use the hydraulic crimpers!
Have you ever cut in half something that's been hydraulic crimped? The cable and crimp fuse together into one solid piece of metal.

[twisty]

Have you ever cut in half something that's been hydraulic crimped? The cable and crimp fuse together into one solid piece of metal.

yup ... that's what I was taught a looong time ago doing my trade. Hydraulic crimpers = higher pressure = heat = metal bonding = better joint. No need to solder. But if you do solder then "tin" the wire (heat the bare wire and apply a SMALL amount of solder) before solderng to the connector. Try not to let the solder "wick" past the insulation. Now that brings back memories ... that small 'puff' of flux smoke ... just the right amount of solder ... job well done.

[Winnie]

Hydraulics are VERY expensive though. Most sparkies don't even have one. We hire ours out at work, have sparkies come in occasionally to have a lend of it.

[Cuppa]

Hydraulic crimpers have actually become much cheaper in recent times to the point of it being economic to buy one if you have a few cables to crimp. I recently bought one of these for $62 delivered. Comes with a range of dies to suit from 4mm to 70mm cables. 8 tonne pressure, others with higher pressure available for a bit more

By the time I have crimped all the battery & other connections in my vehicle I will have saved compared to the cost of ready made cables, or taking cut & prepared cables into town to get someone to crimp them for me ( & far more convenient too).

Cuppa

[Robo]

Your 100w Codan will draw around 20 amps

Very important lesson here

RF (Radio Frequency) watts and DC watts are two different wots

I'm to tired to think, can you please explain RF V's DC watts please.