OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 34

Thread: crazy as death wobble

  1. #21
    Advanced largey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    78
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    And well this gonna sound stupid but I'm taking it to pedders gonna c how they go with it might well give em crack at it
    "Livin Large"
    Gu dx Ute
    A.K.A = ABBY

  2. #22
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    6
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by largey View Post
    And well this gonna sound stupid but I'm taking it to pedders gonna c how they go with it might well give em crack at it
    Hi Largey,
    check all the usual stuff. tie-rod ends, drag-link ends (rod from steering box to stub axle). Make sure everything is tight & in good nick. Swap rear tyres (if not scalloped/irregularly worn). Toe-in needs to be 0-1-2mm in. anymore & only outside of l/h tyre will wear. Correctly adjust wheel bearings as most wheel alignment places dont bother & 70% of the time this is the cause. Caster setting shouldn't be any higher than approx. 1.5-2 degrees. I was a truck mechanic for 20+ years & some mercedes used to do this to point of shaking so bad they would break steering arms. You want good flat rubber on the front ,a dynamic (on vehicle) wheel balance done along with proper alignment. There should also be (can't remember the exact ft/lbs) a certain amount of pre-load on the upper & lower pivot bearings. Hope this helps

  3. #23
    Advanced butters's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    43
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spanner View Post
    Hi Largey,
    check all the usual stuff. tie-rod ends, drag-link ends (rod from steering box to stub axle). Make sure everything is tight & in good nick. Swap rear tyres (if not scalloped/irregularly worn). Toe-in needs to be 0-1-2mm in. anymore & only outside of l/h tyre will wear. Correctly adjust wheel bearings as most wheel alignment places dont bother & 70% of the time this is the cause. Caster setting shouldn't be any higher than approx. 1.5-2 degrees. I was a truck mechanic for 20+ years & some mercedes used to do this to point of shaking so bad they would break steering arms. You want good flat rubber on the front ,a dynamic (on vehicle) wheel balance done along with proper alignment. There should also be (can't remember the exact ft/lbs) a certain amount of pre-load on the upper & lower pivot bearings. Hope this helps
    Cheers for that spanner! Some good info, chuck up an intro mate

  4. #24
    Expert Kelvinator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    maryborough and gladstone queensland
    Posts
    107
    Thanks
    50
    Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Its not often a problem ive heard of with patrols but if you still have you sway bar fitted check the link rod bushes. I recently had a car that shook so bad from a loose nut on the link rod it bent the panhard rod. Also with these lads suggesting that ur tires may be out of round, jack ur vehicle up so that the tires are just a mill off the ground and slowly spin them and watch the gap. Also check the top of your shock towers in case a shock has partly punched through. And if its really that hard to find whats wrong with your car you may not look stupid to check the rear end of your trol. It can be surprising what something broken in the back can feel like in the front.
    Flip er on er wheels, she'll run!
    4.2 Diesel GQ 4" King'n'ProComp Lift, 33's, Gu steer box conversion, custom drawers and a heavy right foot. Turbo kit, quarter chop and a heap of barwork coming very soon!
    A BIG thanks to Johnny at Repco Northside Rocky for always sourcing me the gear and parts I need ASAP You've saved me many times.

  5. #25
    Patrol Freak
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,253
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 264 Times in 214 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I reckon their should be a comprehensive guide done up on the shakes and how to eliminate it as it would have to be one of the most commonly asked questions i have ever seen.

  6. #26
    Expert Kelvinator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    maryborough and gladstone queensland
    Posts
    107
    Thanks
    50
    Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    when i was an apprentice there were plenty of manuals and guides with this sort of information. It would just be a matter of finding the right textbook, google can fix anything man
    Flip er on er wheels, she'll run!
    4.2 Diesel GQ 4" King'n'ProComp Lift, 33's, Gu steer box conversion, custom drawers and a heavy right foot. Turbo kit, quarter chop and a heap of barwork coming very soon!
    A BIG thanks to Johnny at Repco Northside Rocky for always sourcing me the gear and parts I need ASAP You've saved me many times.

  7. #27
    Hardcore
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    central coast nsw
    Posts
    2,011
    Thanks
    625
    Thanked 513 Times in 388 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've even had brand new tierod ends faulty.
    ebay items, had to throw all 4 in bin and replace.
    Local bullseye supplied at similar price, and problems solved.
    Iv'e notice alot of stuff on sus-bay prices are becoming retail, no real saving .
    Especially if your purchasing something 2nds in quality.
    Quality can at times be considered suspect reguardless of their claims.
    If return or warranty is short term , then you weight it up.

    Steel type rims are bent and or out of round more time than not.
    Pays to check em before you throw any new tyres on em.
    You could just be making a temp fix .
    And rims soon ware/damage new tyres , and problems back.

    1 of the post mentioned jackup and spinning tyre slowly to check for out of round tyre.
    Recon you should be trying this for sure.
    You need to study whole surface of tyre .
    Have had outside edge ok, but inside out of round.
    And visa/versa.
    Do all of em incl spares, your spare/s could be faulty also.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Robo For This Useful Post:

    Kelvinator (10th March 2012)

  9. #28
    Advanced largey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    78
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well looks like I'm in for big day tammaw will start checking out problem one at a time
    "Livin Large"
    Gu dx Ute
    A.K.A = ABBY

  10. #29
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Launceston Tasmania
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Have you checked to make sure the free wheel hubs are disengaged. If the front diff has a bit of wear and tear it can set up a wobble in the tailshaft giving you the "death wobble" sensation.
    94 GQ 4.2 Turbo Diesel - tow truck for 2005 16' Norseman caravan

  11. #30
    Advanced GQ snail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Brisbane
    Posts
    81
    Thanks
    37
    Thanked 14 Times in 7 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I had same prob recently. Did pan hard bushes, now old girl runs straight and true.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •