Under body rust prevention

[Peacemaker]

Lanolin Liquid Protectant

http://www.erps.com.au/lanolin-products.html

spray it in and it will creep in every nook and cranny to protect it. I do it about every 3 years. Just water blast outside surfaces to remove dirt and salts and spray it on,in and around and it wont damage any thing. The only draw back to using it is you will notice a lot of KIWI's rubbing up against your truck.

[Mrowka]

At an early stage of its life, my 1994 GQ was sprayed with that asphalt-like underbody coating.

It has survived 16 Russian and Ukrainian winters so far.

[MudRunnerTD]

Nup, go for it mate. perfect time to do it is after a big beach trip when teh underside is freshly sand blasted. then go for it its a winner.

[macca86]

My fiance is a kiwi! She already loves me if I do that how am I to go on boys weekends? (she hates the patrol)

[shaunh]

de oderised or not that sh*t still stinks haha, ive previously just used body deadener in a areosol can, works as rust prevention and quietens everything down a bit

[ozzyboy]

ty 4 the useful info.
bought a gq mainly for beach fishing and was wondering best options.will give it a spray of fish oil; next weekend

[hutchy84]

Does anyone know where you can get the underside sandblasted and painted in perth

[gqpew]

Does anyone know where you can get the underside sandblasted and painted in perth

I'd also be interested in this. It'd be great if someone can post recommendations.

[Silver]

there is a fair bit of controversy about the usefulness of the electronic rust preventers.

The thing I notice that kills GQs is rust in the three layers of metal that make up the join of roof to body/gutter. I'd be paying a lot of attention to that area in any rust proofing effort.

You can blow fish oil and tectyl on with a kero gun, if you have a compressor. the no22le allows the spray to be directed into more nooks and crannies than a spray gun. get a cheap tarp, spread it out, park on top, jack up if necessary, and of course place on axle stands, and go to town. The tarp stops grass and gravel sticking to you :-)

Remove the screws that hold the trim at the bottom of the doors, and give the inside of the sills a squirt, likewise the doors, making sure the windows are up :-) Make sure the drains in the doors and sills are working. With a kero gun squirting fish oil into a cavity at one end of the old MQ wagon, it was ama2ing to see where else a fine mist of fish oil would appear.

If the vehicle has been rustproofed in the past you might find 16mm +- holes already drilled, hidden behind trim, and perhaps covered with metalic tape that allow access to more cavities.

I asked a bloke who used to work for a rustproofing mob what oil he would use, if going for an oil rather than a wax like Tectyl. He reckoned peanut oil was the go... but didn't really explain why.

[Robo]

The problem with electronic protection is.

It does not protect against chemical corrosion at all, not 1 little bit.

It relies on water for the protective electrons to travel across the surface of panels, so if the panel is dry then, well you guessed it, nothing.

You drive threw a creek or on beach and the area that gets wet, is being protected.
Once dry again protection ceases.

Any chemicals left behind by water can and do attack your precious toy.

So unless you own a submarine !!.
and then you'd be using a knoble metal in conjunction with electronic protection, if possible to use both.

There is plenty of research that has already been done on net for all to see.

I know this isn't related but I'll throw it in.

Ever wondered why the bypass fitting on your expensive engine are only zinc plated metal?.
And not a nice anti corrosive metal like brass.

Answer is, it is there to act as a knoble metal.
"A sacrificial anode if ya like".
It is cheaper and easier to replace than that expensive manifold or cover it's screwed into.
yes they are a pain if they corrode.
but it is intentionally engineered that way.
say $20 fitting ver $400 die-cast piece. you do the math.

cheers