Big Problems with an RD28, Need advice Please

[Gas_Guzzler4800]

Im not sure if it helps but I remember we had problems with an RD28 years ago and it turned out there a 2 or 3 different heads. one uses adjustable tappets and the other hydraulic. You cant mix and match the valvetrain

[Gas_Guzzler4800]

Have a read of this link
http://www.allhead.com.au/Identification/ID_RD28.html

[albi]

or how about this one then boy's.

today i got my boys to find "true top dead centre" on bottom end , removed no 6 injector as it is eazy than no 1 because of injector pump and also the wiring plug on the injector , poured diesel down the cyl and "spool" timed the cyl to find TDC and quess what ??

well the woodruff key "crank key was at "2 oclock" WTF???? it should be at 12 0clcok as BDC is at 6 o clock!!! should it not ???

so then we rotated it 180 deg for true BDC and the key was at "8 o clock".....

now one of the things we first did was to set up timming as per spec's and advance the crank key 1 tooth at a time untill it would rotate ok ,and it was 2 teeth advanced on crank key when it did rotate 360 deg without valves touching the pistons!!!

how is this possible you may ask ?? what is the weak point in the RD28 engine ??

the crank gear and balancer bolt comming loose "same as the v6 pajero" and chewing out the crank snout!!

well if the crank is serviceable the end is spray welded" a term used for welding the crank ???" machined then a new keyway recut.
well i called said reconditioner and he said he didnt do crank "well machined the jurnels but not keyway" and we assumed that prevuiosly it was done as this was an exchange engine, the same as my current cutomers 1 this was an exchange problem solved!!

and no im not fitting this one even thou weve solved the problem,as what happens in say 100,000klms and an other mech does the t belt??
doesnt know about said crank key and sets up as normal ?? bang bang!!

ill take pics tomoz and post up .

oh and the pistons back to front makes sence to as the valve relif's are not lined up !!!
cheers boys

[the ferret]

Well there ya go, I knew it had to be timing, or pistons around the wrong way or something stupid.
Who would have thought the crank had been sprayed.
Gotta admit, it had me stumped, been dreaming about the thing all night as I felt a need to come up with an answer for you.
The new keyway would have been cut at a fresh place and that's what tricked ya.
Good detective work mate, and no I wouldn't wish that on the bloke that does the next timing belt.
I like your ethics.
Cheers, the ferret.

[albi]

cheers mate ,as you said it had to be a timming issue took 10 hours labour to find thou !!!!!!! but as always i cant pass that onto the owner.

[the ferret]

I'd be pump'n the reconditioner fer 10 hours labour, He should have checked the timing with a dummy belt and handed it to you ready to fit the belt.
Anyway, a recon long motor should be in running order apart from electrics, and that means a belt, tensioner and idler and all sealed.

[albi]

yeh mate ive got to go through the hoop so to speak now and make new job cards and bill said manufactuer.all part of the game i spose

[the ferret]

yeh mate ive got to go through the hoop so to speak now and make new job cards and bill said manufactuer.all part of the game i spose

You know, because of that mod to the crank and shifting the key, how do you know that it was cut exactly to tooth spacing, it could even be half a tooth out.
After re doing the keyway, the timing mark on the sprocket should be re positioned as well, weld up the old one and re mark the new position.
This would have saved you a lot of anguish eh?
Cheers, the ferret.

[Radmobile]

Yes but the piston no 1 must be at top dead centre, both valves for that cylinder closed and injection pump to have just squirted to no1 injector.
(Loosen no1 injector line, ignition on, rotate pump drive clockwise till it squirts.)
Fit the belt, rotate motor to key at 6 oclock, check markings, adjust by only rotating cam or IP but they should be close.
Keep fingers away from fuel line as it's high pressure and can penetrate skin and kill you.
Tighten injector line.
After checking belt markings, tighten and rotate motor by hand 4 revolutions.
If all free, fit lower timing cover, THEN balancer and top cover

You must remember to loctite the crank bolt when you are happy with it all.

hard start and a subltle knock is whats happening. so your scenario sounds spot on...

im going to follow your instructions and see how i go. would u mind explaining in a little further detail?

i had marks on the belt, cog and engine marks lined up. so i thought it would have to be right...? how is it possible to be so far out ?

thanks man!

[the ferret]

hard start and a subltle knock is whats happening. so your scenario sounds spot on...

im going to follow your instructions and see how i go. would u mind explaining in a little further detail?

i had marks on the belt, cog and engine marks lined up. so i thought it would have to be right...? how is it possible to be so far out ?

thanks man!

Check that the timing mark on the crank sprocket is at 3 oclock in relation to the keyway at 6 oclock, (see Albi's post)
You need to set the belt up so it's tight and straight between the fuel pump sprocket to the cam and down to the timing mark on the crank sprocket,
Take up the tension with the tensioner, count the teeth in the belt between each sprocket as per the pic a few posts back.
You also should double check the fuel pump timing.
Also check that you havn't lost the end off a glow plug.
If you get it running, listen for "hissing" at the valve guides using a piece of hose to your ear, pretend you are a Doctor.