Fitting a genuine Nissan turbo to a N/A TD42

[YNOT]

I think I got very lucky Tony!!!

Can you or anyone else please confirm that this is the pick up for the oil feed?

I couldn't say for certain. If you can get the plug out see if oil comes out, if it does try to borrow an oil pressure gauge to screw in there and see what pressure you get with the engine running.

Tony

[AB]

Thanks Tony I'm pretty sure It's the spot as in the first post of this thread looks exactly the right spot.

I'll get it checked out to be sure!

Just below port 2 off to the left a whisker...lol

[AB]

Hi Tony, one last question...lol....Well maybe not the last!

The coolant drain needs to be connected to the return heater hose indicated in the photo below. It doesn't really matter where but I would put it near the back of the engine bay.

Could I replace the bolt thats under the port 6 in the below photo (green circle) for the return water?

Have you seen anyone do this at all?

[AB]

Incase anyone is following this thread I just thought you all should know do not put the oil drain from the turbo into the vaccuum pump from the alternator LHS side of the block.

A lot of people have done this, a lot of turbo companies do this and a lot people mention it is ok and they have not had problems.

It may be true and may not have any problems but there is a huge risk of the oil backing up and sever damage to your turbo / engine, especially for low mounts like mine.

Tap into the sump as per Tony's post at the start of the thread.

[AB]

I couldn't say for certain. If you can get the plug out see if oil comes out, if it does try to borrow an oil pressure gauge to screw in there and see what pressure you get with the engine running.

Tony

Just to confirm for the thread Tony, that is the spot for oil feed on TD42 N/A but the standard pipe fitting from the TD42T may not fit and will need custom. I have heard of one person who managed to use it by slightly bending the pipe over the engine mount but the bend needs to be spot on to line up to the plug....I'll see how I go anyway...lol

[YNOT]

It's worth a shot (for the oil feed) AB. Worst case if you get the bend in the wrong spot and can't get it to fit then you're back to getting a custom braided hose made up, nothing to lose by trying the way I look at it.

Tony

[AB]

Tony, I just spent an hour at Pirtek with a very helpful person in regards to oil and water lines for my Ht-18 turbo.

I will do a full write up about it with photos but you may have to copy the info into your threads you started as a lot needs to be done...

Photos and more info to come when I get it back later in the week but from the top of my head this is what we are doing...

1. Water feed: Tapping into original GU water feed pipe at the thermostat end where you pointed out in previous post.
2. Water drain: is the same set up as Safari turbo except Banjo bolts are different.
3. Oil Feed: The original banjo fitting that goes into the GU block is different size plug from the GQ TD42 so bending the pipe over will not work. I will now utilize the oil feed flange connection that comes off the turbo as there is no thread inside the hole of the turbo. Rosscos Sarafi turbo does have a thread. I am using the original flange mount oil feed pipe and tapping into the line with a flared end and using braided line to connect to block.
4. Oil Drain: The original oil drain pipe is too big (larger then standard 3/8 BSP) for a proper hose to connect to the sump. The oil drain mounts to the turbo the same as the oil feed above using a flange mount and there is no thread inside the hole to screw in a fitting. I am cutting the end of the oil drain off and fitting a thread and hose fitting inside the original pipe to reduce down to 3/8 BSP to connect into sump as per all other aftermarket turbo set ups.

[AB]

Thought I better put some pictures up of a standard GU factory turbo hooked up to a GQ TD42 N/A.

I have used most of the existing oil and water lines off the GU with some custom braided lines. See below for pictures and explanations...

[AB]

Here are some more photos of existing GU water and oil lines and custom safari lines.

Pictures below show how I used the existing GU lines - cut and tap in braided lines or flared pipe to attach hoses, etc...

OIL-FEED.JPG

WATER DRAIN.JPG

WATER FEED.JPG

[AB]

I started to fit my factory TD42T onto my GQ TD42 N/A today. Tony, feel free to grab any pictures and info you want to add it to the main thread... Learnt a lot today...lol...Especially what things you should bolt on first...LMAO

Ok, photo below of a standard GQ TD42 N/A engine bay standard. (except for the vortex air intake for the 4" snorkel...lol)

Below is a photo reference only of a TD42 N/A manifold and a GU TD42T manifold. I noticed 2 of the bolts were already loose, you might want to check over your engine every now and then as you can see below from the previous owner there has been 20 years of rubbing and elongated holes.... Pretty scary... Air filter off, manifold remove, exhaust and dump pipe removed and new manifold gaskets installed. OIL DRAIN = I was supposed to tap into the plug on the LHS of the engine bay for the oil feed. This plug was seized and could not be removed. tried every trick under the sun and just ended up bending tools as below...

Stupidly started to grind the slot in the engine mount for the braided hose to fit in and then stopped half way through grinding to check the plug.... LESSON 1 = CHECK PLUG BEFORE GRINDING! Manifold installed and double check turbo arrangement... Note: Sway bar needs to be removed to take out exhaust, unless I missed something??? It's a 1 minute job anyway...

Ok, so I can't tap into the plug for the oil feed so thanks to Tony's advice at the start of the thread I will tap into the oil sensor on the other side of the block (RHS). Below is a photo of the sensor with a new T piece for the oil feed....Pirtek sells these... I go the original GU oil feed connection and braided hose and extended it to wrap around the engine and connect to the RHS of the block (oil sensor).

Because I already had the GU fitting and flange I just rotated the flange and ran the braided hose around the back of the engine towards the windscreen, just below the rocket cover. This worked a treat and the rotated the oil feed flange just fits inbetween the turbo and the water feed pipe....Very very lucky, see below pic of how close it came....meant to be!!! Another turbo photo below loosely bolted on to check lines and postion, etc... Water feed T piece installed and ready for action...

Here's a photo of one too many cranks and busted the bolt on the rocket cover...lol...I was pretty mad after that!!!! Also found one of the studs a bit munched! Photo below shows the water feed line installed....GU original water feed pipe was used from turbo up to the end of the rocket cover then I flared the pipe and connected the pipe to the T piece as shown in other pic just with a hose....Easy job and works a treat. NOTE: You can use the end tab to screw down to the rocket cover because the pipe pulls up to the T piece....Doesn't matter anyway NOTE: See below photo...If you are undertaking this job make sure you bolt the water drain hose to the block on the rear LHS """BEFORE""" you bolt the turbo and manifold on. This was a nightmare and is extremely hard to get access. I had to sacrifice my 19mm spanner....By the way, this worked a treat! Also, don't forget to put a bucket under the car to catch the water that comes out. Also avoid rocking the car for even more fantastic water that pours all over your shed and your tools and your clothes when your under the car...Anyways...Moving on....LMAO