Hey Rossco;
Check out this link. Not sure if will help you any, looks like hard work to me. Dont think will help you with tyre pressures ?? Just fixing a flat
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/Wheels/Split.html.
Cheers Pete
Hey Rossco;
Check out this link. Not sure if will help you any, looks like hard work to me. Dont think will help you with tyre pressures ?? Just fixing a flat
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/Wheels/Split.html.
Cheers Pete
DX grunt (2nd January 2011)
Thanks for the info Pete. I picked up a bit of info from it. Because I've never done it before, I'd prefer to have it professionally done. For the inexperienced like me, too much can go wrong and I could get hurt, or worse. I'll carry the extra tubes Justin Case the tyre repair shop doesn't stock my size, and from what I've experienced, there are too many variations to stock everything.
Thanks, and I'll add it to my favourites.
Take care out there.
Ross
DX grunt
Winner of 'Best 4 x 4 ' at the 2017 Albany Agricultural Society Inc - Town n Country Ute Muster.
Ex Telstra - 2005, 4.2 TDi ute -with pod and more fruit than a grocery shop.
Tools needed:
1 pair of good tyre levers
1 steel mallet (smallish)
compressor and tyre inflator
1 valve tool
Work boots on feet
Gloves can prevent metal splinters.
I will try to explain how to do roadside changes safely with no chains, cages etc.
Make sure the valve is completely removed from valve stem.
With the split rim ring facing up have the gap in ring closest to you.
Place a tyre lever on the right side of the gap, under the ring, and try to pry it up a little.
With the other lever, place it under the notch that should be visible.
Work the ring off by lifting ring up and into centre of rim at same time.
Once the ring is removed you can get ready to remove tyre.
A rock or log etc can be helpful at this time.
Flip the wheel over onto rock etc, and stand ontyre as to push it down. This cansometime be rusted on and may take some work.
Most of this type wheel has a liner in it to prevent tube being rusted to rim.
Once the tyre is moving, stand it on it's edge and seperate from rim, carefully dislodging valve stem from locating hole.
Remove the liner to one side, and remove tube.
Place in new tube and replace liner, tucking in flaps so they cover tube and go down side of tyre.
Begin refitting of rim, remembering to relocate tyre valve stem.
Once you are happy with tyre being on rim, place bead ring on top again. (some have an exact position to be in)
Starting at the left side, hold the end in place with heel of boot, and start rest of ring down with other heel.
Once ring is down, tap with mallet all the way around a couple of times. The bead ring should snap into place.
Now you are ready to inflate once you reinsert valve into valve stem.
Place 5 psi of air into tyre, retap bead ring.
Stand wheel up, and from behind the wheel(ring facing out, and you on opposite side) place another10 psi in tyre, by reaching over the tyre with only your arm as to keep your head behind the wheel.
Once you have a total of 15 psi in tyre, tap bead again by laying wheel down, and working around the wheel, allowing only your wrist to pass over the actual tyre at any time, don't reach across the whole whell, walk around the circumference.
You now have two options, you can turn the wheel over so bead ring is facing down, and inflate in incriments retapping bead to desire pressure, OR my preferred method is to continue as you started, inflating in incriments and tapping bead ring to desired pressure.
THE MAIN THING IS: keep minimal body parts near bead ring when inflating and make sure that bead ring is locked in before full inflation.
No one should stand in front of wheel while being inflated. These Rims are only dangerous when the bead ring has not been locked in correctly, hece, the continual tapping in. DO NOT LEAN OVER THE RIM WHILE INFLATING! IF THE BEAD RING FAILS IN WILL KILLYOU! At least if it hits your wrist/arm you will survive. I have never had one seperate as I am dilligent andalways take my time, and still always stay as safe as I can.
Hope this helps, any questions just ask.
Tim
Getting Older Is Unavoidable, Growing Up Is Optional!
DX grunt (3rd January 2011), the ferret (3rd January 2011)
Thanks Tim for the detailed info.
I'm not confident enough to change one myself. The only tool I need is a mobile phone with coverage....."Hello, is that the RAC" lolol
Thanks again.
Ross
Winner of 'Best 4 x 4 ' at the 2017 Albany Agricultural Society Inc - Town n Country Ute Muster.
Ex Telstra - 2005, 4.2 TDi ute -with pod and more fruit than a grocery shop.
When we do the big meet, I might be energetic enough to do a demo for all to see
Tim
It's ok that you are better at living out your cross dressing desires and leaving the manly tasks to us real men....
ROFLMAO
Last edited by patch697; 4th January 2011 at 08:29 AM.
Getting Older Is Unavoidable, Growing Up Is Optional!
Agree with the ferret on lock rings - real hard to tell if they are seated properly. One of the reasons I gave up on split rims.
For extra safety when inflating, slide the wheel under the vehicle, but not under the petrol tank. That way the valve can stay upright and no chains, etc. needed.
If you are worried about possible samage to the underside of the vehicle, put a bag or old blanket (always carry one) on top of the wheel.
Yes, If you go about it in the correct way keeping safety as a premium, there is minimal danger, thousands are fitted worldwide every week.
The biggest danger was with the 10.00. 20 truck tyres, taking upto 100psi, many a lock ring has gone through the roof of various workshops and I know of one man being killed here in WA.
The best way is to watch an expert, ask questions and practise until confident.
DX grunt (4th January 2011)