RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints

[mudnut]

don't know if they've already been posted, but I have RB30 ECCS information from the factory R31 skyline service manual if it's not on here already (as well as engine information like torque figures etc.)

Go for it Pat. There are a lot of
modified RB30s out there.
If we find the thread gets
too big, we can always edit
it and add links to sub threads.

[pat in a troll]

ok i'll get busy getting images for the pages.

[Patrol'n]

Hi blokes,

Following on from the info above I might seem like a but of a dinosaur here, but I have a couple of quick questions about my RB30 patrol, hopefully someone can help.

I thought of going EFI, turbo etc, and still might, or do an engine transplant later when funds permit.

In the meantime, I discovered my patrol still has the honeycomb heater insert, so that's coming out, and my carb looks dirty as heck, so I'll service that too. When removing the honeycomb element, did others also remove the can in the other carb throat? I've read it is for fuel distribution and should be left in place?

I'm also going to see about a better exhaust as while I have extractors, the exhaust is very quiet and is probably a factory unit (or equivalent replacement), so might be a little restrictive.

Who knows, I might even be happy with it after the changes, since it only feels like it needs a little more power. I do like the simple set up.

Another question, I have a small round device above my brake booster on the firewall, with two wires, and a vacuum hose coming out of it, (first photo), what is this for and should the vacuum line be connected to the front of a round device on the front left of the carb? (Second photo).

Thanks all.

[mudnut]

Definitely leave the deflector
in the throat of the manifold.
If you do take the heater grid
out, it is best to have the stove
pipe assembly operating correctly
otherwise the engine will struggle
when cold.
The device you described is
the FICD which operates
the fast idle actuator when
the aircon is working. It
is dealt with
earlier in the thread.

[Patrol'n]

Definitely leave the deflector
in the throat of the manifold.
If you do take the heater grid
out, it is best to have the stove
pipe assembly operating correctly
otherwise the engine will struggle
when cold.
The device you described is
the FICD which operates
the fast idle actuator when
the aircon is working. It
is dealt with
earlier in the thread.

Hi Mudnut, I should have looked harder at this thread first, it's all there, thanks very much mate.

I see you replaced your alternator, did you fit another 60 amp one, or go for an upgrade? I've seen 80 amp ones available to fit, but I wonder about the original wiring handling extra current.

Here in WA it doesn't get that cold that often, but if it struggles in the cold I'll reinstate the stove pipe as you suggest. I'll have to weld a pipe fitting onto the extractors, since they don't have one.

[mudnut]

If you haven't
got the original heat
collector plate, it would be
easy to make one.
It would also be fairly easy
to attach it with stainless
steel hose clamps.

I believe the alternator
I acquired locally is
the same as what
Patrolapart have on offer.

[Patrol'n]

Ok, I've had a look at the patrolapart alternator, think I might have to get one, so can I assume you've had no wiring issues, fuses blowing etc? And did you notice any power drop from the engine driving a more powerful alternator?

[mudnut]

None at all, because
I have not added any
accessories, so the
power required to
drive the alternator
is the same.

[Throbbinhood]

If upgrading to a higher output alternator, I would definitely be running a higher capacity wire from the alternator to the battery.

[Patrol'n]

Point taken about the accessories, I guess it's because I may add a couple of extra things and therefore may require more from the alternator that I was asking, more of a future proofing line of thought.