Rear bar will have to wait unfortunately. Nice looking bar though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
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Rear bar will have to wait unfortunately. Nice looking bar though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Nice work mate, I had a chat with rob at the show a couple years ago looking had his bar and can say that I was very impressed. Looks like a very sturdy bar and IMO much better looking than other reasonably priced bars like powerful 4x4, MCC etc.
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Hey Rocket,Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Love the updates mate. Quick question, how did you get the centre console past the gear shift(s) and hand brake? I can't budge mine. I would take out both seats first (easy as) do the three screws (ashtray and two sides) but removing the knobs? Bloody hard as and no luck.
It was a bit tricky. Give the handbrake a good application and get it as high as you can. Remove the 3 screws, ashtray light plug and the 2 plugs for the auto button and aerial height button. Unscrew the gear knob from the 4wd lever. The auto "T" bar stays on.
I can't remember the exact combination put pull the auto down to 1st or 2nd gear, lift the rear of the console up and past the handbrake lever, it was pretty close but mine came out this way. It's all in the way you hold your mouth I think.
As always, really helpful mate. I appreciate the time to respond and will give it a go.
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Few updates for the Rocket wagon. Starts off with some BOSS Chassis bracing
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pspewia34r.jpg
Means rear springs out
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psw4fcapcn.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pshfekba4i.jpg
Also took the opportunity to fix up the airline going to the top of my airbags as it was all twisted and kinked.
Removed the bump stops and cleaned up the spring hat. I was glad to see that it was all in good nick with no cracks or bends in it.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pscgkuh9gv.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psak03j1sl.jpg
Cleaned them up, through some silastic in there to stop water and mud sitting between the chassis and the brace (as per the instructions) and bolted the braces in.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjl6djise.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psitgu30hk.jpg
The passenger side was a piece of cake. The drivers side was a pita with all the brake lines on top of the spring hat. At the same time I put some 2" blocks inside the spring under the airbag to allow for my suspension lift. Threw it all back together and you'd never know they were in there. :D
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pseyccowyw.jpg
Now I feel more confident everything will be OK when I hang my caravan off the back.
Some other bits and pieces turned up during the week also, pretty excited with these.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psktlqgmvp.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psshnqdzxb.jpg
They are soo much bigger and stronger than the OEM stuff. Set about painting them to avoid any unnecessary attention.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4bgvxwsi.jpg
Used the cap of the spray can as a guard to avoid painting the rubber bush, figured it couldn't be good for it.
Came up pretty good in the end.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psqzgebply.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psv5qxjklk.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ksetx5j.jpg
I'll probably start putting them in next weekend. Hopefully the paint will mostly stay there :? I used Rust Guard satin black. Time will tell I guess.
Coming along very nicely Rocket - are these all mods you did on the 3.0L as well and are just transferring learnings or things you never got around to doing but always wanted to?
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I like the idea of painting them. Smart thinking :thumbup:
No, these are new mods. The chassis bracing is for towing the van. Once I put the rear bar on and got the spare off the rear door and stopped it rattling I could hear a heap of clunking and bang underneath, so it was time for some new bushes anyway, may as well get the arms to go with it. I'm also chasing a vibration in the drive line, so I'm hoping the adjustable uppers will fix that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
Haha thanks. I'm sure all the P players will be going "why are you painting them??" Haha, I'm happy for the incognito look with them though.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Yeah, once they start being stopped because of the type of car they drive, then they'll understand why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Looks good rocket. Clever move on camouflaging the suspension bits.
Yep, bit of black paint, bit of road grime and hopefully unless you go looking for them you won't really notice them.
You could put all those rods near a radiator, and bake it on a bit
It was 23 deg up here yesterday, I just left them out lying in the sun ;)
Should have got one of my mates to paint them over when they are at the moment. Check out the max and mins there :jawdrop:
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psyhsaud5w.jpg
Was there much work involved in fitting those braces mate? Thinking of doing the same thing. I won't be towing anything. But with camping gear, fully loaded up she will weigh a bit. I understand yours are bolt on ones. Then there is the weld on ones.
They are pretty easy to put in really. Just accessing the top bolts on the drivers side is a bit difficult but really only added 5 mins to the process. Basically it's springs out, bolt them in and put the springs back in. If you're a bit handy and have a trolley Jack and stands, it's straight forward. A cordless rattle gun makes light work of the rest of it.
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The bars look good painted Rod. But that will come off in no time I reckon. Get some POR15 mate. Dear as poison but tough as nails. Oh and get a handfull of cheap paint brushes if you do. Because they're stuffed once you dip them in the POR15.
Your truck is coming along quite nicely too. I've been meaning to start up one of these thread about my own truck....
@ Thanks rocket. I'll be ordering some to be put in with the lift kit.
@ Mudski - you mentioned it to me the other day. Where to buy it??? Your usual paint places have it ?? The bloke whos doing my underbody uses it, but he also mentioned it is not UV stable and will discolor after a while - but will keep its strength and anti rust properties forever. He couldnt tell me where he gets it from as its bulk purchased for him.
This is the stuff I used Mudski, only in Saturn Black. I've had good success with it in the past on things like wheels, sliders, brackets etc. so I'm hoping it'll go ok this time. I'm just not sure if it'll stick to that electro coating stuff. Time will tell I'm guessing.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psawi8chxn.jpg
That is also the stuff I used for everything. Used it on my last patrol to refurbish a rusty tow bar assembly. Came up almost brand new and stayed that for after many trips and bashings! Good stuff. This POR15 stuff is however, a much harder, thicker compound and dries and solidifies super quick...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=60243&stc=1
Came up a treat Hodge. The only thing that annoys me with Rust Guard is the long drying time, 24hrs before it starts to get any real strength. You can hurry it along a bit with a heat gun but not much. You can get it touch dry with a heat gun, but you'll still leave finger prints in it if your not careful.
If this POR15 stuff is quick drying and tough then it sounds like a winner.
Yeh mate. Especially in winter , takes forever .
Yeah thats one of the best spray paints I have used too. Hodge found out how much POR15 is today. $115 or something for 1ltr. My advice though is to by 500ml. As you wont use it all and it does get a rock solid crust on top of about 3mm or so thick. Even with the lid shut good. Also, go to Bunnings and buy a bunch of their cheapest brushes. You will destroy one everytime you use this stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Currently in 2 minds at the moment. I'm about to order a stack of go fast bits for my wagon that will see me fry standard clutches. I'm virtually set on a UFI clutch that will hold 800Nm and 300+ rwhp, not that I want to go this far. But I will be venturing into the lower area of where some have been having crank failure issues under certain conditions.
From what I've learnt and other have worked out is that the crank failures are due to harmonics as opposed to too much power. The increase in power simply lets the engine operate freely in the rev range that generates these harmonics around 3,800rpm give or take.
It appears as though there are a couple of things which influence this.
1) reducing the weight of the flywheel/clutch assembly seems to help.
2) flywheel material that helps absorb harmonics verses reflecting them back along the crank seems to help
3) upgrading the dampener on the front of the crank seems to help.
As a result you can get these wonderful sexy looking aluminium flywheels that are approx 6.5kg lighter than the standard cast item. They feature a bolt in wear plate. They're not cheap and would ordinarily fall into the "do it later" category, but I don't fancy pulling the gearbox out multiple times. I'm looking at it from an engine insurance perspective.
Thoughts?
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psksbezrpi.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3qwzmcy4.jpg
Under the advise from my mechanic we are using the OEM flywheel and the Clutch Industries 4Terrain clutch. And we are aiming for 160rwkw, or there abouts. This mechanic is renowned for his work down here, and does a heap of comp trucks, drag and high performance street cars, so I can only assume he's on the money. Bloody hope he is, lol.
Just for reference Rod. As you may be putting money into something thats not really needed.
This flywheel is only 8.3Kg which is a massive saving on the standard flywheel but yeah they do cost a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
This quote is from Ben-e-boy on this exact flywheel...
"It will rev freely. It smooths out the vibrations from the odd firing pattern that a TD has. Also should halp a little bit to save the crank."
You will have less power losses through the drivetrain as well. It would probably not make an enormous difference on it's own but a combination of this with some other small gains will equal one huge gain.
Are you aiming for around 200kW?
yep i would be taking a big look at bennys thread, he has seriously done a lot of work and research into working his motor(and has done it) his truck is an absolute weapon
I'm undecided about it, just canvassing some opinions. I'll check out Bennys thread.
In the inexact science that this all is (no actually they're pretty good at hitting target numbers) I'm looking at around 230rwhp or 175rwkw.
Looking sweet! Your gear surround is quite different to mine?? Odd? Thought yours was an Auto by that surround?
Hmm.. The start of the thread has my 2010 CRD auto in it. About half way through I sold it and picked up a 4.2 manual. The surround with the two digital volt meters in it is from my CRD auto.
Ha! I went back two pages looking for it and did not go back far enough. Makes perfect sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Couple of quick little jobs this afternoon. When whoever put the lift in they never installed the extended brake bias bracket
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psvtlgzbwk.jpg
So in one went.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pswhbdgpk3.jpg
Couldn't feel any difference when driving it but at least now I know it's right.
Next came a pretty cool little mod, well I think so anyway. Converting the auto hubs to free wheeling hubs. This allows me to select L4 without being in 4wd and hence winding up the transmission and drive line. Perfect for reversing trailers :D
Lock the hubs, Undo the 6 x 8mm cap screws and pull the hub off.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pslhnvuras.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psgbfs8vfr.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psj71bzmd3.jpg
Place the hub in the vice and pri out the locking ring. I found it really tight, but if I tried at a different place around the ring it popped out really easy. So give it a go in a few places and you'll find it pops out with minimal effort.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psict21e6h.jpg
This is what the hub looks like with the locking ring removed.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjjmqcuw8.jpg
This is both the locking rings (one from each hub) one is upside down one isn't.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1qqrcgwe.jpg
Now just put the hub back on and you're done. The whole process should take 10-15 minutes if that. :D
Looking very nice mate. Saved your post for when I get my rig back. Will do this mod.
It's a great little mod and it is really very simple and quick.
Rod, how is the Raslarr bar going so far? Any feedback on it. Saw one earlier today, and looked the goods. Definitely now considering one ...
So far so good with it. I have noticed a creaking sound when I flex it up a little bit that I need to get to the bottom of. The reverse light seems to fluctuate in brightness while on. They do it simultaneously so I assume it's an earth issue as opposed to a bar issue. I need to run some power down the back for some other things so I'll put a relay in and pick up a solid positive and negative and see if that resolves it, I'm confident it will. All said and done I'm really happy with it and loving the auto opening mechanism for the swing away arm though.
Thanks for that mate. Good to hear some positive feedback. Might have a chat to them this weekends coming 4x4 show and see if there is any specials.
Also fitting was fairly straight forward ? Just wraps around and utilizes existing tow bar captive threads and holes/bolts ?