Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

SO I thought its time to start up a thread. I've had The Dunger since April 2012 and he's changed a fair bit.
It a 2001 GUII and came with a ZD30 Direct Injection 3ltr, manual trans a sagged 2inch OME lift, bald 31's, ARB Bar and 9500lb TJM winch.
Forgive me for the lack of shots. I cannot for the life of me find the pics of it when I picked it up. But I do have more as progress started on the build up....
This is pretty close to the early stages of when I bought it. Except it had no window tint, the OEM scoop and the rims were a very old and bad looking silver. The tyres on it in the pic I picked up for a steal on fleabay. Five tyres on rims, one brand new at 10mm tread depth, the others at 9mm. All for $399! The car looked like a pregnant rollerskate but mate they did the job. I wasn't gonna wreck a good set of KM2's on the black top. Funny thing is I sold the five rims and tyres around 30k later for $500. Hehe!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62779&stc=1

So I'll just fast forward to now. Since then heres a list of stuff I have done.

Added the Full NAD's to the motor.
McNally Boost and EGT gauge
Larger intercooler
Catch can
HPD Billet MAF housing and Hi Flow air box lid
3inch Redback exhaust, muffler removed
White dial facing

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62780&stc=1

Front recovery points, see here....http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14223-Fitting-GU-Recovery-plates
New remote central locking system to replace the defunked Ni$$an crap...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?12608-A-Guide-on-installing-your-own-remote-central-locking-in-under-20-minutes
Made a hidden glove box compartment...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?20566-GU-Second-glove-box-mod-DIY
3inch Flexy coils
4inch Tough Dog 45mm Adjustable shocks
Drop boxes
Adjustable Panhards front and rear
10mm longer rear lower control arms
adjustable rear upper control arms
75Ltr Aux tank
Full braided brake lines
Ctek 250dual dc-dc charger
Rear LED lights in the barn doors, effing handy these are....

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62781&stc=1

2Din head unit with GPS, BT, reversing camera etc etc
GUIV black leather steering wheel
Electric brake controller
Ally roof rack with a 42inch Light bar mount under it.
A 2.5m ARB side awning
A ARB rear awning
LED driving lights ( best invention ever!)
Front Air locker
Custom made Projector headlights with HID's and LED angel eyes
BFG 285/75/R16 AT's for the road
BFG 315/70/R16 KM2's for the tracks
Customs made, well home made, rear drawers

Then as of late I decided to take the mighty expensive plunge and get a TD42 fully rebuilt and put in. But man I love it now, I need not to worry about the stupid MAF sensor getting dirty, the more stupid serpentine belt and tensioner shitty itself everytime water hits it and the bloody limp mode saga's. I was actually to worried to take the thing out to anywhere even sort of remote, as I had that thought always sitting there in the back of my mind, when will my cards be laid on the table and I will need a tow home.... But having said all that, I had the lil ZD screaming and going really good in the end. It pulled the camper really well...

So here he is now...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62782&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62783&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62784&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62785&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62786&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62787&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62788&stc=1

Projects on the list are...

TB48 front brake conversion. I have everything ready, apart from pads (on order from Nissan in Japan), and rotors. Prolly get DBA dimple drilled and slotted ones...
Rear tube bar
and I'd love a Hi mount winch.
4inch intake system too.



Thanks for looking.

[nissannewby]

Needs a good 4" induction track too :)

[jay see]

So why Arthur.

[mudski]

Needs a good 4" induction track too :)
Yes thats on my list of things to do too... Lol More...

So why Arthur.

Because I originally called it my dunger. Because it was one.... Lol. After this great character.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62789&stc=1

[mudski]

I started to make up a mount for the Carter lift pump I will install...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62799&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62800&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62801&stc=1
So the pump will sit in this bracket and i will wrap some heavy rubber around it to protect it all.
I just need to figure out the best way for the wiring. Some just wire it straight into the ignition. This is the easiest as there is easy access to ignition power via the rear wiper motor. But this means the pump will run if I turn the ignition on to say test something. I could run an override switch. But this means a manual switch on the dash, don't want this...
Next option is to use an oil pressure switch. Say a 10psi normally open switch. Issue with this, the only port left of the block is right behind the alternator and its a allen key grub screw by the looks of it. I can barely get my hands in their.
I then thought maybe could I use the Redarc oil pressure switch for my gauge? But how? I was thinking in my head to pickup the signal wire, that is activated when the motor starts and oil pressure builds up, and run this via a relay?
Would this work?

I finally got a new oil pressure switch from Redarc to replace the faulty one. Finally works. But for how long. lol.

[mudski]

Here's my TB48 calipers all rebuilt with two new pistons. Red and ready to go....I have the backing plates too. Just waiting on the larger master cylinder, OEM pads and I need to decide on what rotors to use. These is also a new rhs stub axle to go in. As I couldn't figure out why the bearing would always go out of adjustment. The inner bearing was wearing into the stub where the hub seal runs. The LHS did this a year or so back. Replaced it and all good.
I think when its time to do all this I will remove the rear calipers at the same time and rebuild them too. Then I know its all done...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62802&stc=1

[mudski]

New master cylinder and OEM pads have arrived. Just need to order the rotors, have enough beer on hand, and find the time to do the swap over. Looking forward to this....

[mudski]

Ok so i think i have too many projects on the go now.
The tb48 brake upgrade, wire in and install the lift pump and now i have decided to remove the 4way relay box in the engine bay and utilise the 5 spare spaces in the oem relay box next to the main battery. Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/17.jpg

[mudski]

So i went to the wreckers and bought a relay box for $30, stripped it down and now i have to graft the new wiring in from the current relays i want to add.
But once done i thinj it will turn out good. And no extra relays in the engine bay. All in the one spot.
63080
All stripped and readyto work out... lol more work.
63081

[mudski]

Looms are made up and ready to go in. I just need to remove the battery and pull out the relay box for fitment of the new looms.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/25.jpg
I realised i have a spare 5 pin relay port in the box so i will also use this aswell for any relays that require 5 pins.

[mudski]

Heres what the relay box looks like underneath.
63155
And heres the box with the new bases in. Not wired in yet. The looms are just tucked away for now. Next job is to wire them in.
63156

[MEGOMONSTER]

Heres what the relay box looks like underneath.
63155
And heres the box with the new bases in. Not wired in yet. The looms are just tucked away for now. Next job is to wire them in.
63156

Aren't you a busy boy.
Looks great.
Great use of space.

[threedogs]

Yo Mark have you fitted your scoop yet?
If not could you trace the outline and bolt holes
on a sheet of paper for me please

Hoping its the same as Rockets and Eric's?
[Fairlaine]

[mudski]

Yo Mark have you fitted your scoop yet?
If not could you trace the outline and bolt holes
on a sheet of paper for me please

Hoping its the same as Rockets and Eric's?
[Fairlaine]

Yeah mate scoop was fitted yonks ago... Rocket has the same scoop as me, Fairline, and Eric has the OEM scoop. What do you need the trace for?

[threedogs]

Was going to laser cut some aluminium to make a vane to direct air to the front of the IC
similar to the A.R.E. scoop

[mudski]

Getting a bit further down the wiring track with the Relays. I have done 3, horn, angel eyes and devil eyes. I have left is the spotties and then the two for the fuel pump. Thanks to John,jff45, for the assistance in the how too's of running the relays for this.
I'm also running a separate fuse box (pictured) just for the power supply to the relays.
Then once its all wired, its time to fit the pump up, then the brakes go in...

[mudski]

Finally finished the relay box wiring. I have one spare spot in there too. I was going to put the two relays for the lift pump in there but they are wire differently to usual and I had pre wired the relays in there so I mounted them down next to the brake booster....So the lift pump wiring is all in too, I just need to plumb up the pump at the back and thats another mod to tick of the list...
I'm quite chuffed with the relay box job really. Its so much neater now.

[mudski]

Finally finished installing the lift pump. It now operates only when the oil pressure switch has switched of after the engine has started.
63417

[mudski]

The TB calipers, discs and backing plates are in... also a new front right hub. Now to replace the brake line from the t junction and the master cylinder.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/35.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/36.jpg

[BigRAWesty]

The TB calipers, discs and backing plates are in... also a new front right hub. Now to replace the brake line from the t junction and the master cylinder.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/35.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/36.jpg
Looks like a race car...
But looks good

[Hodge]

Looks like a race car...
But looks good

The way this thing drives, trust me it needs them ... Race seat harness next ???

Looks good Mark.

[mudski]

The way this thing drives, trust me it needs them ... Race seat harness next ???

Looks good Mark.
yeah I'm keen to see what the difference will be.
The master cylinder took a whole 5 minutes to remove and refit, the front brake line took about an hour, becoause of the little room, and, the flare nut was rounded off. So out came the dremel and i cut the line close to the flare nut and then i could remove the entire front flexi line and remove the flare nut with ease. Now all i have to do is bleed the brakes.
Then i might remove the rear calipers and rebuild them. Not sure if i should do them or not though. But they have never been serviced...
I still need to get a 80w or so panel and fit this to the roof rack and carpet my rear drawers, all before the end of the week.

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[Sprock]

yeah I'm keen to see what the difference will be.
The master cylinder took a whole 5 minutes to remove and refit, the front brake line took about an hour, becoause of the little room, and, the flare nut was rounded off. So out came the dremel and i cut the line close to the flare nut and then i could remove the entire front flexi line and remove the flare nut with ease. Now all i have to do is bleed the brakes.
Then i might remove the rear calipers and rebuild them. Not sure if i should do them or not though. But they have never been serviced...
I still need to get a 80w or so panel and fit this to the roof rack and carpet my rear drawers, all before the end of the week.

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Less posting & more doing then mate [emoji57]


2002 GU wagon 3.0lt , auto , piranha dual batteries , 3" lift , chip , needle & Dawes valves - just gettin started

[mudski]

Rears are now rebuilt as one was seized...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/51.jpg

[mudski]

And my new plates arrived....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/52.jpg

[Winnie]

And my new plates arrived....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/52.jpg
Nice one mate! Matchy matchy!

[mudski]

Nice one mate! Matchy matchy!
Yeah some plick thought it would be funny to mangle the front plate as it only has two bolts holding it in. So i thought if i need to order new plates ill get these.
Now i have to wait for the missus to get home so i can bleed the brakes.

[BigRAWesty]

And my new plates arrived....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/52.jpg
Very nice...

[Hodge]

I saw Arthur today. Well I heard it first on Bell st. Love that tone !

[mudski]

So I've had a few days to allow the brakes to wear in. I must say its really good to have brakes that work. No more nose diving under brakes... The GU pulls up really nice now.

[jay see]

So I've had a few days to allow the brakes to wear in. I must say its really good to have brakes that work. No more nose diving under brakes... The GU pulls up really nice now.

Always good to have brakes that work. Lol

So what's the next little project Mark.

[mudski]

Always good to have brakes that work. Lol

So what's the next little project Mark.
Yeah I thought they worked pretty good before, seemed to pull up ok. But now after front and rear calipers have been rebuilt, the fronts are now larger too, its a lot different.
I wouldn't mind upgrading the sway bars to the Superflex bars, also upgrade the air intake, but I want to get the engineers report done first.

[mudski]

So i just couldn't help myself. I bought the Titan rear drawers from 4wd Supa centre. I saw them yesterday, for $699. Bloody alright price i thought. I went in today to have another look, and they had them for the same price, but they came with their data scan tool thingo and a led strip light. Scored!
And i may have bought an ARB 47L fridge with transit bag.

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[jay see]

So what has more litres the inside one or the camping ones. Lol

Nice pick up for the price. Don't you already have one of those scan gauge things?

I'm still not convinced on having the fridge sitting on top for draws, but that's just me...

[mudski]

So what has more litres the inside one or the camping ones. Lol

Nice pick up for the price. Don't you already have one of those scan gauge things?

I'm still not convinced on having the fridge sitting on top for draws, but that's just me...
Yeah well i have the 75l engel, the 32l engel and now this. Lol. I might sell the 32l but it fits nice under my workbench keeping my beers cold, ill see about out this. The gauge i had was an ecu talk and i sold it to a member here. This unit isn't compatible with my model apparently, is for the CRD's though... so ill flog it off. As for the fridge, i see where your coming from. Wouldn't be exactly easy for you mate to climb up there. I do have another set of drawers i made up that is a single drawer on the right, and the fridge on an arb slide next to it in a box so you can stack stuff over the fridge. I hadn't carpeted it yet and put a lock on the drawer but it worked really well. So ill flog this off too.
I really need to get rid of some stuff. I have parts everywhere at my house now. Its getting a bit stupid.

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[jay see]

Climbing up to get to the fridge isn't that hard for me, it's more the fact that you "have to" and my missus is shorter than me.


Should be a few bargains popping up soon.

[Winnie]

So what has more litres the inside one or the camping ones. Lol

Nice pick up for the price. Don't you already have one of those scan gauge things?

I'm still not convinced on having the fridge sitting on top for draws, but that's just me...
I have a 40L Engel on top of my drawers and it is a pain... Not so bad for me but the missus hates it! Drop down fridge slide is on the list.

[mudski]

I have a 40L Engel on top of my drawers and it is a pain... Not so bad for me but the missus hates it! Drop down fridge slide is on the list.
Yeah i am on the hunt for one now... bloody pricey things though.
That auto elec mob in Bairnsdale seem to have the best deal on them. Ill be going past their probably about 8am maybe. Wonder if they'll be open.
What i will do is put the fridge on the right side when i get the slide, then i can use the built in slide in the drawers as a pull out table.
Heres the drawers....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/120.jpg

[Winnie]

Yeah i am on the hunt for one now... bloody pricey things though.
That auto elec mob in Bairnsdale seem to have the best deal on them. Ill be going past their probably about 8am maybe. Wonder if they'll be open.
What i will do is put the fridge on the right side when i get the slide, then i can use the built in slide in the drawers as a pull out table.
Heres the drawers....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/120.jpg
I missed a 2nd hand one on Gumtree for $250 by an hour! I was spewing!

[lhurley]

Yeah i am on the hunt for one now... bloody pricey things though.
That auto elec mob in Bairnsdale seem to have the best deal on them. Ill be going past their probably about 8am maybe. Wonder if they'll be open.
What i will do is put the fridge on the right side when i get the slide, then i can use the built in slide in the drawers as a pull out table.
Heres the drawers....


How do you find the draws? feel sturdy? good fit and finish? decent runners?

For $700 you wouldnt be saving much making your own.

[mudski]

How do you find the draws? feel sturdy? good fit and finish? decent runners?

For $700 you wouldnt be saving much making your own.

Mate for the money they are really good. Very sturdy. Ball bearing runners and fits really well. I'm very impressed for a Chinese, mass produced unit.

I actually had made my own, cost me around $300, plus the slide ($150)... which kinda worked better as it was a single drawer, a pull out table and the fridge was at floor level with a cover over it so you can stack stuff over the top. It had a ARB fridge slide in it too. But for a family, the single drawer was kinda too small. Now to fork out the coin for a drop down. But will have to sell the smaller Engel I have a few other things to pay for it...

[BigRAWesty]

Mate for the money they are really good. Very sturdy. Ball bearing runners and fits really well. I'm very impressed for a Chinese, mass produced unit.

I actually had made my own, cost me around $300, plus the slide ($150)... which kinda worked better as it was a single drawer, a pull out table and the fridge was at floor level with a cover over it so you can stack stuff over the top. It had a ARB fridge slide in it too. But for a family, the single drawer was kinda too small. Now to fork out the coin for a drop down. But will have to sell the smaller Engel I have a few other things to pay for it...
are you not keen on the tilt slides?? They seem to work well.

[threedogs]

Never been a fan of drawers ,I have had them and just found you ended up filling them
with gear you'll never use or forget whats in there, Plus the fact its very difficult to get
stuff from a fridge.
The drop down fridge slides are probably the best bit of 4x4 gear to come on the market
in a few years, be it a tad pricey$$$.
Even empty they are 50kg plus and weight being the enemy is probably why Im not a fan,
Ive seen all manner of storage systems over the years, yes they are well made but not for me.
It also restricts what you can carry in the back.

[threedogs]

Not keen on the tilt slides?? They seem to work well.

Really how come??

[BigRAWesty]

Really how come??
Sorry have re worded the question..
I like em.. a good option to drop slides..

[threedogs]

If I was to have a storage system I think Id just have some kind
of removeable frame work thats suits certain storage containers.
be they plastic or whatever, would keep the fridge down low, but
my fridge is low anyway sitting on a platform behind the driver,
When removed Id have plenty of room in the cargo area.lol

[nissannewby]

There is a guy on the other forum who made his own drop slide for less than 200. He has posted all drawings with dimensions.

[Rossco]

I reckon rear draws are one of the best things I've done. Did try to keep them as low as possible tho, get away without dropper but they do look nice, maybe one day . A bit bulky but worth it i guess. Each to their own i guess for storage but do love me draws.

[Hodge]

I've seen Mudskis draws today in person, very very nice set of draws. The titan ones are really well made. I was telling him one of my mates has a set in his pajero and he has put his set through hell as they mostly carry his tools etc and are used all day every day and they haven't skipped a beat.

[BigRAWesty]

I've seen Mudskis draws today in person, very very nice set of draws. The titan ones are really well made. I was telling him one of my mates has a set in his pajero and he has put his set through hell as they mostly carry his tools etc and are used all day every day and they haven't skipped a beat.
The only thing I can fault with the steel runner on bearings draws are the limited length they pull out.. nearly 250mm in under the lid.. makes it very hard to get the stuff right in the back..
With runners they usually pull out more than their stored length..
Even my timber ones held well with only 100mm over lap..

[mudski]

are you not keen on the tilt slides?? They seem to work well.
Not really tbh. When i go camping i usually stack stuff in the fridge neatly so its easier to get at, tilting the fridge will just ruin that. ..

Never been a fan of drawers ,I have had them and just found you ended up filling them
with gear you'll never use or forget whats in there, Plus the fact its very difficult to get
stuff from a fridge.
The drop down fridge slides are probably the best bit of 4x4 gear to come on the market
in a few years, be it a tad pricey$$$.
Even empty they are 50kg plus and weight being the enemy is probably why Im not a fan,
Ive seen all manner of storage systems over the years, yes they are well made but not for me.
It also restricts what you can carry in the back.
The weight issue isnt a big deal for me. Its only around 70kgs, the td doesnt even feel it, lol. Plus plenty of space to store stuff the better. Each to their own....

There is a guy on the other forum who made his own drop slide for less than 200. He has posted all drawings with dimensions.
Yeah i did see this. When i come back from holidays i will be looking at this...

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[mudski]

Picked up my 47L ARB fridge today with transit cover. Man this thing cools fast. I picked it up and plugged it in to mains to check if it was working, it showed 27c temp. I put in it my car, plugged it in and set the temp to -1c. Buy the time i got home, minutes later, it was sitting at -3c. Impressive...

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[mudski]

So I did the body mounts yesterday as I was having the knocking issue under the floor at my feet, and it was worse when wet so I thought to change them. Even though looking at them in the car, they looked alright to me. I started at around 2pm and was done around 4hrs later.
I didn't get the rear mounts in, I just couldn't get the body high enough to remove the rear mounts, these are longer than the others...So I spaced them out with big washers. I will get to the rears at a later time as I know its gonna chit me if I dont do them.
The rear mount has two small bolts on either side of the mount too. Facing upwards so if you have gorilla hands. Good luck with those. Tip for this mount. Undo all the bolts for all the mounts on the car, except for the two small bolts on the rear, jack the body up and then get at these bolts. Have a look on your own and you will see what I mean.
The 3rd row mount you undo a nut, you need to remove the front seat and the mount which the rear outer foot of the seat mounts too. As you need to push the bolt up through the floor to get the mount out. The other mounts are a bolt going the other way. Why this is not the same is beyond me. It could and should be...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65036&stc=1
I should have taken a before shot of the front and rear bar clearances. Before, the bull bar was touching the body, and the rear, the guard was touching the bumper. Now I can fit my finger in there. Heres the after shot
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65031&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65035&stc=1

Heres the old and new mounts... Second pic is on the front right mount. This I changed around 18 months ago too...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65032&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65033&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65037&stc=1

I haven't driven it yet to see is there is any difference. I can only assume there will be. If not. They're done now. Lol.

[Bloodyaussie]

So besides the knocking did you get creeking as well.?

So all the knocking has gone... did you get the hose under the car then go for a drive.

My car makes loud creeking all the time and knocks like mad when wet.

[mudski]

So besides the knocking did you get creeking as well.?

So all the knocking has gone... did you get the hose under the car then go for a drive.

My car makes loud creeking all the time and knocks like mad when wet.

No creeking, just the knock under the foot and other little knocks and rattles.
I took the car for a spin. Over the speed humps in my street is where I would here the one under my feet. All gone. and so are the other little knocks and rattles. I haven't wet under the car, I'll just wait til it rains. Lol Its much quieter and a little smoother to drive. Placebo effect? Dunno. But I'll go with it.

That first pic of the two mounts I put up. The old one has actually risen up a little. When they were in the car, you couldn't even see the gap in the mount.

[mudski]

So I got a few things done today. Since it was quiet....
Replaced two rear control arm bushes that were fubar with OEM ones. God I love my eBay special 12T press!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65682&stc=1
Why does it put the pick upside down????? Ugh.

Fitted the new, but transit damaged Tough Dog shocker cover. Bloody idiots posted the new cover, just in a post bag with no protection at all. So it obviously copped a beating when in transit. I rang Tough Dog up and they just told me to use a heat gun to repair it. I wont be recommending their product to anyone now.
And drilled out the ends of the sway bar and used 14mm bolts right through the rose joint and sway bar. As the rose joint uses those spacers so a 12mm bolt can be used. Issue is, the hole in the sway bar is about 13mm, god knows why, so the bolt has room to move around. So now, the bolts are bigger and theres no movement.

Annnnnd, my DSE 12v oven got a 6mm twin core cable upgrade with a new Narva plug and boy it heats up soooo much quicker. Now to do the other oven.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65684&stc=1

And the difference between the OEM GU Tie Rod and a Superior 4340M comp spec. Bitta weight diff....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65687&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65686&stc=1

[mudski]

Well I'm at my wits end with this front end noise.
I get it turning, it was noticeable most when traveling around twisty roads, going around left bends and then straightening the wheel I'd hear and fell the clunk through the floor, could be felt on both sides too. I approach a speed hump, brake then release just before the bump, I'd get another clunk. Going over the speed bump anything other than walking pace, the rhs would clunk and rattle, like something is lose.
Things I've done so far...

New tie rod, superior 4340m comp spec
New drag link, superior 4340m comp spec
Radius arm bushes barely six months old, including mushroom bushes
tightened up all front end bolts
Spherical bush in the panhard is barely six months old, removed it last night and checked it, all good.
removed the entire sway bar and did a test run. The noises are worse, especially under braking and going over the speed humps
Checked the radius arm mounting holes, one was flogged out by a bee's dick. Welded a washer onto this....
New body mounts.
Checked the wheel bearings
Checked the knuckle bearings and tension, all good.


The clunk I can feel it at my feet and occasionally through the steering wheel.
What I haven't done yet.

Removed the radius arms and checked the bushes, waiting on stock to arrive just incase I need to replace them, or one.
Removed the carpet and checked the floor for stress cracks.
Removed the steering dampener and gone for a drive. Doubt its this though.
Swapped the front shockers over from left to right. Might do this now actually....


I also get a awful crack noise coming from the front end, only when in 4wd. I have a feeling this is the CV joints. This crack noise has always been there since I have had it, but is more constant now... I will get to this after I sort the front end noise.
I have another set of radius arms here I might put new bushes in and swap them over to see if this fixes it. Dunno.

[Ben-e-boy]

Just check tension on the top radius arm nut. Those mushroom bushes are shit. Before I ran hybrids I would regularly have to check them and could flog them out in a few trips

[Rossco]

Have you checked the body mounts since you did them. Maybe they need a retension. . .

[mudski]

Just check tension on the top radius arm nut. Those mushroom bushes are shit. Before I ran hybrids I would regularly have to check them and could flog them out in a few trips

Tight as a nuns... I have a feeling it may be the mushroom bushes. But am waiting until stock arrives or the bushes. Its a really bad design using those mushroom bushes. I had a chance to get some Superior Superflex hybrid arms and I let it go and now they are gone. Bloody spewing I am.

If. I was to change my arms, is it worth going the Superflex hybrid arms, or just the hyrbid? I will be running a sway bar and probably get the Superflex sway bar too. As the one on it hangs down so much it hits everything and the Superflex is straight. No loop.

I so hope its the mushroom bushes....

[mudski]

Have you checked the body mounts since you did them. Maybe they need a retension. . .

I just printed off the spec sheet, again and am getting under there now with my torque wrench and will check them.

[nissannewby]

Panhard bushes? Is the panard adjustable.

[threedogs]

I take it this noise [clunk] is there all the time wet/dry weather
Missed my torque wrench and was lucky enough to pick a 1/2" drive
bent arm Warren and brown for $80 near new in its box, priceless

[mudski]

Panhard bushes? Is the panard adjustable.

Adjustable and new bushes less than six months old....
I just got under and checked the body mounts. They had losened. Not a lot but I retorqued them again. I checked the radius arm bolts again. One radius arm bolt, rhs rear of the diff I nipped up but was still very tight. Will see tomorrow on the way down to the coast if its worked. I am hopeful.
I think a change in radius arms will be on the cards down the track. Anyone selling some hybrid arms? lol.
One thing with the top panhard bush bolt I don't see is right. It has a small step in it, from the shank to the thread. This step is right where it goes through the bracket on the chassis. making it a sloppy fit though the bracket. The bolt isn't worn either. I might get a longer bolt and change this over.

[nissannewby]

In new are they the ones that came with it? Is it superior?

[mudski]

In new are they the ones that came with it? Is it superior?

The panhard? Its a Toughdog arm. I replaced both bushes with OEM ones.

[Ben-e-boy]

If. I was to change my arms, is it worth going the Superflex hybrid arms, or just the hyrbid? I will be running a sway bar and probably get the Superflex sway bar too. As the one on it hangs down so much it hits everything and the Superflex is straight. No loop.

I so hope its the mushroom bushes....

The superflex sway bar still hangs low. Any hybrid arm is a better at that end, if you aren't chasing big travel don't worry too much about the superflex arm

[nissannewby]

The panhard? Its a Toughdog arm. I replaced both bushes with OEM ones.

Is the locknut still tight?

[mudski]

The superflex sway bar still hangs low. Any hybrid arm is a better at that end, if you aren't chasing big travel don't worry too much about the superflex arm
Yeah I just looked again at the superflex sway bar. It does have that bend in it, but all the way across, not like the conventional bar which just loops under the exhaust. Wonder how much the Superflex loops down by.... I probably could just remove the entire sway bar when I go out in the scrub. Only took a few minutes today to remove it.

Is the locknut still tight?

Just checked. Yep.
We'll see how it goes tomorrow after re-torquing the body mounts.

[mudski]

You can see the how much the sway bar hangs down from this front end shot.... I need to cut off and re weld that washer too seeing this pic....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66116&stc=1

Also made some rubbers for the bottom of the front springs. From some bloody tough 6mm rubber from Clarke Rubber. Worked up a sweat cutting these out. lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66117&stc=1

and the size differences between the OEM drag link, a heavy duty one and the Superior 4340M one. Kind hard to tell in the pic but the weight difference is massive....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66118&stc=1
And the pic is upside down again. :(

[nissannewby]

Is that superior rod solid?

I dont understand their reasoning for a solid item.

[mudski]

Is that superior rod solid?

I dont understand their reasoning for a solid item.
Yeah its solid. Strength i can only assume is the reason. The 4140 moly rod is solid too, but bigger again in diameter.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Ben-e-boy]

Yeah its solid. Strength i can only assume is the reason. The 4140 moly rod is solid too, but bigger again in diameter.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Solid is not as strong as hollow bar for example. To bend hollow bar you need to stretch and compress at the same time. Those solid bars are still strong no doubt.

[Ben-e-boy]

You can see the how much the sway bar hangs down from this front end shot.... I need to cut off and re weld that washer too seeing this pic....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66116&stc=1



Here is a quick stab in the dark. Take that rtc damper off and go for a lap and see what happens. The coil itself is rubbing on damper

[mudski]

Here is a quick stab in the dark. Take that rtc damper off and go for a lap and see what happens. The coil itself is rubbing on damper
Yeah i thought about that Ben. The only thing stopping me from doing it is that wear mark was there pretty much since brand new. I would assume it would be making noises since new. But. I got nothing to lose...
Ill give it a crack.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Forgot to ask how the conversion went, did you have
any minor problems or it went ok from the start?

Wrap some silver foil around it tightly and see how you go

[mudski]

Most of the conversion went fine John. The only real hiccup was the wrong cross member was used. But was fixed easily enough.
So today i replaced the radius arm bolts and nuts today and the rear bushes in the arms radius arms. Man applying Neverseize to the bolts makes it so much easier to remove the bolts.
I also repladed the to front body mount bolts as the original ones were badly rusted and pitted.
Then i thought to give the front diff housing a coat of POR15. It was looking pretty tired. Looks much better now.
Then i attempted to remove the front tail shaft so I could give the uni's and slip joint a good clean and regrease but the bolts were too tight and it was 5pm and the beer was calling so i left it and will do this another time.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[lucus30]

Most of the conversion went fine John. The only real hiccup was the wrong cross member was used. But was fixed easily enough.
So today i replaced the radius arm bolts and nuts today and the rear bushes in the arms radius arms. Man applying Neverseize to the bolts makes it so much easier to remove the bolts.
I also repladed the to front body mount bolts as the original ones were badly rusted and pitted.
Then i thought to give the front diff housing a coat of POR15. It was looking pretty tired. Looks much better now.
Then i attempted to remove the front tail shaft so I could give the uni's and slip joint a good clean and regrease but the bolts were too tight and it was 5pm and the beer was calling so i left it and will do this another time.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do

[BigRAWesty]

Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do
I find the unis are easier to do when facing up. The joint seems to be open a little more so tip fits better and gets squarer to the nipple..

[mudski]

Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do
Yeah it was quite easy. I just want to remove the shaft and clean it up and get all the road grime off from the last 13 years.
Dont forget to grease the slip joint too. The nipple is often missed because the cross member is in the way.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

I managed to replicate this front end noise in the rhs today. By kicking the front of the right tyre hard with my foot. Lol. I kick the left and it don't do it. Now to get the missus or someone to kick the wheel while I crawl under and see if I can pin point the location. I think its in the hub maybe....

[nissannewby]

I still reckon panhard bushes.

[Hodge]

I managed to replicate this front end noise in the rhs today. By kicking the front of the right tyre hard with my foot. Lol. I kick the left and it don't do it.

We should kick harder next time lol. Remember we kicked the shit out of Arthur few weeks ago when we were talking about that noise and didn't find a thing .



Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[jff45]

I hate tyre kickers..

[mudski]

I still reckon panhard bushes.
I'm not convinced it is but haven't rule it out. Only because I change the top spherical bush and lower bush not even six months ago. I removed the arm last weekend and both bushes are in perfect condition compared to a new bush I have here. The knocking noise is now gone. I had to retighten the body mounts twice after fitting them.
I sounds like something lose inside the front right hub too me. I think I will strip the hub down over the weekend since no one wants to go bush. On a long weekend.

[mudski]

Think I'll remove the panhard rod and see if the sound is still there. That will tell me if its the panhard or not i guess.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Removed the panhard and the knocking/ rattling noise is still there. The sound is coming from inside the diff near, or in the hub maybe? So I decided to strip the entire front diff down. Lol. The right side there was a bit of water in the swivel hub, not a lot but you can tell its had moisture in it. The left side had a bit more, the wheel bearing were quite wet. So a new set of bearings it looks like will be needed.

I removed the CV's. The right CV is notchy when I pivot it around. So I will need to replace it I think. And there is some play in the centre section of the CV, where the cage holds the balls in it. Not sure if there is supposed to be play in it or not???
The left CV pivots nicely still but has the same play in the centre of it. I will take them down to JPC in the morning and see what they think.

While it was all apart, and I have to wait for a new CV or two. I decided to clean everything up, and gave the housing and hubs a coat of paint. So it looks all new now.
I'm not confident that this noise is CV related but with the entire diff stripped. This was the only thing I could find that looks like it needs to be replaced.

[nissannewby]

Maybe the inner guard frame needs rewelding. Have seen cases of this cause a clunk.

[mudski]

Maybe the inner guard frame needs rewelding. Have seen cases of this cause a clunk.

Yeah I have a look now everything is apart and access is easier. I've heard of the floor cracking and the left side gaurd cracking where the battery tray is. Its not going to hurt to look...

This sound is weird. In the car it sound like a knock, when I kick the tyre, it sound as something is lose. I kick the right side tyre, on the front of it, and you hear the noise, I kick the back of the tyre and you dont. Left side doesn't do it at all.
I might remove the battery while I'm here and look for any damage.

[threedogs]

Wheres the respect,,,,,,,,, kicking a Patrol well I never. lol
Will you be fitting stronger CV's or not required with your style of driving???
Kicking a Patrol lol

[mudski]

Wheres the respect,,,,,,,,, kicking a Patrol well I never. lol
Will you be fitting stronger CV's or not required with your style of driving???
Kicking a Patrol lol

I just going with NTN CV's John. The same that came out. Anything stronger is over double in price and I dont have the coin for that.

[threedogs]

I just going with NTN CV's John. The same that came out. Anything stronger is over double in price and I dont have the coin for that.

I think the stronger ones are more suited to running 37" and up Boggers of yore lol
and very high HP, sadly those days are gone withe 33" limit

[mudnut]

Not real loose body mounts is it. I was convinced there was something very wrong with the suspension and even replaced the radius arm bushes. When it rained the noise got worse so I whacked some home made rubber washers in the mounts and the noise has gone.

[mudski]

Not real loose body mounts is it. I was convinced there was something very wrong with the suspension and even replaced the radius arm bushes. When it rained the noise got worse so I whacked some home made rubber washers in mounts and the noise has gone.
Nah been over them three times with the torque wrench Craig. The third time they haven't moved....

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Yeah the bolts were tight but the rubbers were compressed and hard.

[mudski]

Yeah the bolts were tight but the rubbers were compressed and hard.
New mounts only a month or a bit ago....

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Ok. New CV is in. All went well on that part. CV was quite notchy so thats done.
The knocking is still there though.
I got Jonathan to climb under while i kick the front of the rh wheel.
Seems to be coming from where the drop box is. All the bolts in that area are tight.
When i climbed under and had the wife kicking the wheel, if i put my hand on the floor and applied some pressure, not alot, the noise would go away. Se as if i push on the side step.
So i might have to remove the carpet and check the floor for cracks or anything out of the ordinary. Plus ill remove the drop box and inspect it and the mounting area.
Bloody strange this is. I have to crawl over a speed hump so it wont make the noise. Lhs is fine. No noise.
Getting there. Lol.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[oddkid82]

Ok. New CV is in. All went well on that part. CV was quite notchy so thats done.
The knocking is still there though.
I got Jonathan to climb under while i kick the front of the rh wheel.
Seems to be coming from where the drop box is. All the bolts in that area are tight.
When i climbed under and had the wife kicking the wheel, if i put my hand on the floor and applied some pressure, not alot, the noise would go away. Se as if i push on the side step.
So i might have to remove the carpet and check the floor for cracks or anything out of the ordinary. Plus ill remove the drop box and inspect it and the mounting area.
Bloody strange this is. I have to crawl over a speed hump so it wont make the noise. Lhs is fine. No noise.
Getting there. Lol.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Its sounding like what I had. I found that a noise was coming from the drop box. The clunk would not happen all the time.
Try banging under the drop box with your hand. I replaced the mushroom bushes and the noise was still there. I found that the front part of the drop box was flexing about two mil or so and hitting the chassis rail.
Hope that helps and makes sense

[Bloodyaussie]

Its sounding like what I had. I found that a noise was coming from the drop box. The clunk would not happen all the time.
Try banging under the drop box with your hand. I replaced the mushroom bushes and the noise was still there. I found that the front part of the drop box was flexing about two mil or so and hitting the chassis rail.
Hope that helps and makes sense

This is what i said was happening mark.

[mudski]

Its sounding like what I had. I found that a noise was coming from the drop box. The clunk would not happen all the time.
Try banging under the drop box with your hand. I replaced the mushroom bushes and the noise was still there. I found that the front part of the drop box was flexing about two mil or so and hitting the chassis rail.
Hope that helps and makes sense

Does make sense. So how'd you fix it. I really cbf'ed climbing under right now, and even thought to grab the welder out. lol. But then I'd have to get under...

[oddkid82]

Does make sense. So how'd you fix it. I really cbf'ed climbing under right now, and even thought to grab the welder out. lol. But then I'd have to get under...

For the moment I have packed some rubber in between the drop box and chassis. It has been in there for a while and no dramas. If it starts happening again I might just put a couple of weld tacks.

[mudski]

For the moment I have packed some rubber in between the drop box and chassis. It has been in there for a while and no dramas. If it starts happening again I might just put a couple of weld tacks.

Thanks. Something I'll have to attend too as it getting worse.

[mudski]

A new lower windscreen seal was bought for the Troll as the windscreen installer stuffed the old one. It was the original one and the rubber was very brittle so it was bound to happen.

67566
So in the garage it went and I proceeded to pull the plenum cover off and I removed the seal. I had a fair bit of surface rust in the plenum and I could be seen through the grill so I decided to sand it all back and fix it up. Sometimes I think I go too far with my car. But meh!

67561

The grey area was covered in rust, I sanded it all back. What a fiddly job...

67563

A lick of primer....

67562

and then a few coats of paint and then a clear coat on top.

67564

Just about done for tonight...

67565
Stupid bloody thing showing pics upside down... Edit : Its just the attachment that shows wrong.
I even cleaned and spray painted the screws that hold down the windscreen seal, and you cant even see these screws. Lol...

The new transmission mounts turned up today also, one of them is split. And I need to replace the Project HID headlight I have with a new pair of Depo lights. Not looking forward to this.
Then the car goes on a diet, Remove the roof rack, Rear Drawers, winch and side steps. All in preparation for the Engineers...

[mudski]

I also spoke with Radius fab about their snorkels and air boxes. They recommend using their larger flat panel air box over the smaller box with the conical filter. But the battery needs to be moved 80mm. Might be a better idea than removing the battery totally, which was on my mind to do.
They also do custom intake manifolds for $400 and also exhaust manifolds too. Not that I need that.... Can't wait until the funds are there and I think I will get a custom manifold too.

[nissannewby]

If the box and filter element are right then panel filter all the way.

[mudski]

If the box and filter element are right then panel filter all the way.

Right in what way Mat? I think he said they use the Commodore filter...

[nissannewby]

Right in what way Mat? I think he said they use the Commodore filter...

Yeah most use an LS1 filter which is fine. But the box still has a lot do with how well the filter can work and how much gain you will see from it. For best results you want the capacity of the engine either side of the filter at a minimum. This is open clear space either side of the element.

However we are very much restricted by space in an engine bay of a patrol, especially in a wagon where taking batteries from the engine bay is not practical.

Toyota nearly get this right from the factory. You only have to see the size of the airboxes in hilux and cruiser diesels to know they would shit on a patrol one.

[mudski]

I just ordered a Fatz air box and Radius Snorkel. 4inch intake for the 3071 to come soon too, just waiting for the price. Look out! I did have in mind to move the battery and utilise the space there for a decent filter but as its my daily, I just do not have time to be off the road to muck around with this stuff.

[Hodge]

I just ordered a Fatz air box and Radius Snorkel. 4inch intake for the 3071 to come soon too, just waiting for the price. Look out! I did have in mind to move the battery and utilise the space there for a decent filter but as its my daily, I just do not have time to be off the road to muck around with this stuff.
Very very nice. Keen to see how this works out for ya. If I didn't need to do my clutch and my skull surgery I think this would have been the next thing on my car.
I may be keen on your cobra lid to try it i think though Matty said they aren't that good. But has to be an improvement over standard .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Very very nice. Keen to see how this works out for ya. If I didn't need to do my clutch and my skull surgery I think this would have been the next thing on my car.
I may be keen on your cobra lid to try it i think though Matty said they aren't that good. But has to be an improvement over standard .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

I'll be selling the air box and lid as one mate. Your welcome to try it though, but yeah from what I've read there is really SFA difference.
Just need to sell my headlights to help fund this all...

[nissannewby]

Very very nice. Keen to see how this works out for ya. If I didn't need to do my clutch and my skull surgery I think this would have been the next thing on my car.
I may be keen on your cobra lid to try it i think though Matty said they aren't that good. But has to be an improvement over standard .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Correct. The box is the biggest problem.

[mudski]

Part one of three is here. The Fatz box is on board for delivery today. Just trying to find a 4inch comp housing to suit. Harder than I anticipated. Need to get a ram head too. Radius wanted $80 for a Donaldson branded one. Can get them local for nearly half that. I wonder is Safari do a 4inch one. Their look more streamlined I think, but I know they might be a bit exy of $$$.
68154

Whats the best way to cut the gaurd? I only have and angle grinder or a dremel...

[jay see]

Part one of three is here. The Fatz box is on board for delivery today. Just trying to find a 4inch comp housing to suit. Harder than I anticipated. Need to get a ram head too. Radius wanted $80 for a Donaldson branded one. Can get them local for nearly half that. I wonder is Safari do a 4inch one. Their look more streamlined I think, but I know they might be a bit exy of $$$.
68154

Whats the best way to cut the gaurd? I only have and angle grinder or a dremel...

Sober. lol

[Winnie]

Safari do them, the new model Landcruisers have 4" snorkels.
I think the Donaldson looks better.

[gubigfish]

My mate had a air hacksaw and that's what we used, either that or some tin snips. Mines a donaldson which I bought off ebay for $71.50 from memory, don't think Safari do a 4" ram head, you can probably get Trade pricing.

[mudski]

I'll probably just go with the Donaldson type maybe. I have a jigsaw, with metal cutting blades??

[mudski]

Sober. lol

Shut up you! I'm not always pissed. Haven't been for two weeks. Lol.

[AB]

Use a nibbler Marky, much easier and safer...

[mudski]

Use a nibbler Marky, much easier and safer...

Pity I don't have one....
Dont want this to happen...
68155

[mudski]

Part 2/3 has arrived....
68157
I'm think to maybe even get a 4-3 adapter for the box to intake pipe fitment, put the snorkel and box in, and then do the rest when I get the comp housing.

[Hodge]

Very Nice Mark.
Will have to pop around and have a gander at these. Whens the fitting.

[nissannewby]

Safari do a 4" ram head but its around 130-150. If you have dremel go and get a 2mm end mill. They go straight in the dremel chuck and you can cut any which way as long as you have a steady hand. Otherwise grab yourself a nibbler or cheap air hacksaw.

As for the comp cover and as I said earlier just leave the 3" inlet one in place. Just use a short 3-4" straight adaptor in silicon this will be fine.

[AB]

Part 2/3 has arrived.... <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68157"/> I'm think to maybe even get a 4-3 adapter for the box to intake pipe fitment, put the snorkel and box in, and then do the rest when I get the comp housing. Did you specifically order it with the piping on the snorkel side or is that how it turned up?

[AB]

I'm sure MB wouldn't mind you borrowing the nibbler mate or bring it over one day and I'll cut it for you.

I've cut a few now, nothing better then cutting someone else's panels ;)

[mudski]

............................

[AB]

The comp cover on it is 2 3/4 not 3 Mat. The GT3071 only has two inlet options. Neither are 3inch. Ill stick with the Donaldson head as Hitachi near by sell them for about $60. And i might get the mill end bit for my dremel... The air box was just the air box and nothing else. The snorkel came with all the bits needed to attach to the air box. Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk Yeah ok, interesting they now supply a pipe to connect rather then a rubber flange.

I'm glad they listened to customer feedback ;)

[mudski]

...........................

[nissannewby]

The comp cover on it is 2 3/4 not 3 Mat. The GT3071 only has two inlet options. Neither are 3inch. Ill stick with the Donaldson head as Hitachi near by sell them for about $60. And i might get the mill end bit for my dremel...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Come on mark.... just get a 4"- 2.75" reducer then. Simple.

[mudski]

.............................

[AB]

Which part are you refering too? The pipe from the snorkel to the elbow into the air box? Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk Yep that part, the pipe on the airbox intake

[nissannewby]

Can you tell me the part number of your turbo please.

[nissannewby]

This is the part number you need.

756021-2

That is a garret number. So mtq, gcg or any other turbo supplier can get it for you.

[AB]

Mudski, would you mind taking a photo of the intake to airbox?

[mudski]

This is the part number you need.

756021-2

That is a garret number. So mtq, gcg or any other turbo supplier can get it for you.

Yeah I have that number. I have rang mtq and gcg and both said it was ex usa. 2 month wait. lol

[mudski]

.......................

[Winnie]

This o.k?
68177
We should get commissions for that design AB!

[mudski]

.........................

[nissannewby]

We should get commissions for that design AB!

It was that way on the earlier boxes. I dont know why they went to the style you and andy got.

[nissannewby]

Yeah I have that number. I have rang mtq and gcg and both said it was ex usa. 2 month wait. lol

Buy it from an american company and have it in 5-7 days. Somewhere like atpturbo.com

[AB]

This o.k? <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68177"/> Cheers mate!

[AB]

What was it like before? They had a universal rubber flange thing you slide a pipe through of whatever diameter.

Horrible idea!

[mudski]

.......................................

[mudski]

....................................

[Hodge]

wOOt! Just got a call back now from GCG. They found their missing housing! They were showing one left but couldn't find it. Now they have! Coupla days and I'll have that. Now to work out how in the hell I'm to fit it all. I ain't the best of welders for stainless pipe.
I'm quite nervous about it all.

Try Jonathan, I'm pretty sure he welded his didn't he? And from memory it turned out very neat.
I'll have to come have a squiz at your goodies!

[mudski]

..................................

[mudski]

.........................................

[threedogs]

Yeah I'm ok with welding, I just tend to blow a hole or two in the pipe. Lol. Just means more welding and grinding.

If your blowing holes your welding too hot turn it down

[mudski]

................................

[mudski]

.................................

[jay see]

Big thanks to Jaysee for the lift home.

And a bigger thanks to you for the draglink.😁.

You know when it's going to be ready? Need another lift?.

Lucky on the snorkel ay.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

All this testing has to add value to your Patrol in my eyes.
By how much is any ones guess?

[mudski]

...............................

[Spannerman86jj]

Hi mate have you still got the dp chip fitting instructions?

[mudski]

................................

[mudski]

..................................

[Bacho86]

Glad to hear you got it back mate! Now you'll just have to find the time to take it out bush!!


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[mudski]

.............................................

[jay see]

And then and then and then.lol.

Better pull your finger out I wanna go back to Cobaw.

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[Sprock]

Great news mate 👍🏼 I was beginning to think the next time I saw you you'd still be in the commodore - sulking in the corner 😏

[mudski]

.................................

[mudski]

......................................

[nissannewby]

Laser cut td42 badge or something similar. Maybe a 160 to denote the kw like ford and holden

[mudski]

.........................

[jay see]

and I also forgot. I need to get our house on the market, so this is taking up most of my time.


Yeah it was certainly a frustrating wait to say the least. But its all done now.
68962
I just need to go down to Vic Roads and hand over the form so they can do their bit, and let Club 4x4 know too.
I know all about that.

We've got 7 weeks till settlement. 😬

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[mudski]

.................................

[gubigfish]

Is the cage so you can load up the back and still get to the fridge?

[jay see]

Good to see that your keeping your fluid intake while working.🍷

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[nissannewby]

Did you bolt the fridge slide in or just screw it to the draw top?

[mudski]

.......................................

[Bacho86]

Now to just make a barn door table and the back is done...



Want to double up and make me one as well?? [emoji1] lol


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[Hodge]

Want to double up and make me one as well?? [emoji1] lol


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Get in line mate lol.

[Bacho86]

Get in line mate lol.

Hahaha well maybe mark can triple up on materials and we can make an arvo of it...! Lol


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[Rossco]

Bolted down mate. They supplied 20mm long screws. Gonna grab stuff all they were. So I drilled right through and bolted it down.

Yeah wow that's pretty dodgy, especially for the $$ you spend on them. Yeah definatly want it bolted down.

She's looking nice now Markie, especially that mod plate. . ☺

[mudski]

......................................

[BigRAWesty]

Yeah a bit disappointed on those screws. But they do supply packets of different nuts, bolt, and brackets all to suit the different fridges that it can take. Really well made the slide is, I can see why it cost so much. So the screws was nothing too bad I suppose. Even if they were longer to actually grab into the wood I wouldn't have used them. Bolting it down is the way to go.

As for the barn door table. I don't have any room, between the drawers and the door. maybe 5mm to the rhs of the door, as it slightly curves inward toward the tail light. Just not sure on how to go about this one. Those caravan ones are too bad, just to thick, and too small i think. If I use some timber to make one up it will be too thick aswell. Love to do stainless, I might draw something up and get a quote from the cutters.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/97.jpg

12mm ply with a couple of strips under it which located between the draw sides and bench top laminex glued on top..
Sorted..
Make it the whole draw length if you want the space.. I made mine to suit a peice of laminex I had left over from the gq draws.
Best bit is you just slide it out the way or lift it out if you need big stuff out..
Make it a tap in fit and it doesn't budge..

[BigRAWesty]

A few more pics of it in my build mate towards the end..
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Enissanpatrol%2Eco m%2Eau%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Fp%3D679853&share_tid=36162&share_fid=16273&share_type=t&share_pid=679853
Westy's GU

[mudski]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/97.jpg

12mm ply with a couple of strips under it which located between the draw sides and bench top laminex glued on top..
Sorted..
Make it the whole draw length if you want the space.. I made mine to suit a peice of laminex I had left over from the gq draws.
Best bit is you just slide it out the way or lift it out if you need big stuff out..
Make it a tap in fit and it doesn't budge..

Hey thats an idea.... I will see if theres room for this on top of the drawer and under the shelf section. As the drawer on the right usually has all the non cooking items in it so I can have this open and still access the left drawer. :thumbup:

Fix your avatar too dude. Your car will roll over. Lol.

[BigRAWesty]

Hey thats an idea.... I will see if theres room for this on top of the drawer and under the shelf section. As the drawer on the right usually has all the non cooking items in it so I can have this open and still access the left drawer. [emoji106]

Fix your avatar too dude. Your car will roll over. Lol.
It's the scape of the pic..
It's the right way in my phone lol..

My outback draws have nearly 25mm between draw top and top shelf so heaps of room..

[BigRAWesty]

Fix your avatar too dude. Your car will roll over. Lol.

There ya go. Resized it..

[Rossco]

Hey thats an idea.... I will see if theres room for this on top of the drawer and under the shelf section. As the drawer on the right usually has all the non cooking items in it so I can have this open and still access the left drawer. [emoji106]

Fix your avatar too dude. Your car will roll over. Lol.
Yeah like that idea, seen it before and works quite well. . What about checker plate ally as another option. . .

[BigRAWesty]

Yeah like that idea, seen it before and works quite well. . What about checker plate ally as another option. . .
Flat alloy is ok but will blunt knives quickly.
Check will be a biatch to clean.
the good thing about ply and laminex is its dam cheap..
So after a few years if it's scratched and hammered then it doesn't hurt the pocket much to simply bin it and start again..

[mudski]

.....................................

[threedogs]

Jusy saying instead of caging in the fridge with box section and mesh,
just use some ARC fence panel very strong and extend it so you have a top shelf.
Good to see the Arthurmobile back where it belongs. lol
or take some mesh to a sheetmetal place and get them to fold you a piece,

[Rossco]

Flat alloy is ok but will blunt knives quickly.
Check will be a biatch to clean.
the good thing about ply and laminex is its dam cheap..
So after a few years if it's scratched and hammered then it doesn't hurt the pocket much to simply bin it and start again..
I was thinking check down so the smooth side was up. Usually use a chopping board or plate when chopping stuff but laminex does sound good. Used 9mm ply with a bit of carpet on mine, doesn't work too bad. . .

[Winnie]

You could use a thin sheet of teflon which would be cool too. Easy to wipe down and doubles as a chopping board itself.

[BigRAWesty]

You could use a thin sheet of teflon which would be cool too. Easy to wipe down and doubles as a chopping board itself.
Yea a bit of 12mm nylon sheet with a few stays either side..
Heaps of options..
I like the marble laminex though..
Adds class lol

[threedogs]

On the other one [4x4] I used honeycomb wall partition from an aircraft [flip down table]
and glued a piece of aluminium sheet to it and then edged it with alloy angle iron.
Hand some cable lanyards made to hold the table when down and held it shut with 2
ute tie downs,
When the table was down I had access to my minibar/spice rack, I hollowed out the big
door and made a box with shelves to fit inside, It mainly held UHF milk, coffee, tea,
sugar and an array of different spices , the smaller door I hollowed out and fitted
my thomas copressor , That was over 20yrs ago now but still a great idea I thought at the time,lol

[mudski]

..............................................

[mudski]

................................

[lucus30]

Just trying to figure out how to hide these holes now. The paint work their is a bit how's ya going too. I'm thinking a stainless plate laser cut into something?
689636896468965

I want to remove the two front flares too and clean them out and drill some large drain holes in the base on them too.
Bit of weld, bog and rustoleum paint and you can't go wrong ha ha

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[BigRAWesty]

Minor set back yesterday arvo. Hodge came over to grab something and I was showing him the drawers and slide. I pulled the slide out and levered the tray down. I put a bit of weight on the tray and the back of the drawers flexed and tried to lift up. So out came the rear cage and looked at what to do. I should have though of this when putting the drawers back in. The are only held down to the floor with two rails running left to right about a third in on each end. Plus the frame is made from sheet metal so....
Anyhow, I cut a small section away in the carpet and I could feel like a screw hole or something there. (see below left of pic) Sure enough there is.
So I will make a bracket for each side to run down the back of the drawers and attach to the floor. Plus do the same for the middle. I dont think it will move then. Hope not. lol
69086
I only I had more time as I want to rip that shitty looking carpet out and replace it. Ah well, more work for later.
Bugger. But I guess that's the cheap side of it.
The outback draws have rivnuts in the back section of the frame like the sides.
3 across the back of each pannel.
I used blind nuts and dome head bolts to secure my fridge side in and cut the bolt so it doest protrude threw. It finishes flush.
So if something is rubbing in the draw it won't catch.

[mudski]

.....................................

[BigRAWesty]

Yeah you can see the cheap in these drawers but still great for what they are priced at. So I made up some brackets for the rear. 3 in total. Doesn't move at all now....
69090

God that carpet really looks bad in that pic... Something on the list down the track. New carpet.
That's the way..
And don't stress about the carpet. .
No one sees it

[mudski]

...............................

[BigRAWesty]

Preen stain remover and high pressure clean.
Worked a treat on my 20 year old gq carpet. .

[mudski]

.......................

[threedogs]

mudski I may have some honeycomb partition board here [from qantas], enough for a rear table
you can have it if I can find it, Its light as and very very strong , I just edged
it with aluminium tape, I may even have a piece of 12mm perspex that would
suit your needs

[mudski]

.............................

[BigRAWesty]

Thanks John. I haven't decided on what and how to do the table yet. I want to make up a cage first.
Well hurry up..

[Sprock]

Well I can confirm that this vehicle really does exist - I saw it in the flesh last night - I was beginning to think it was just some sort of mythical figment of my imagination 😝

[mudski]

..................................

[mudski]

.........................

[jay see]

If you're after bit more room couldn't you get another awning side and attach it to the front..

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[MB]

If you're after bit more room couldn't you get another awning side and attach it to the front.. Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk You mean like an 'Oz-Tent' Jaysee :-) Luv ya Mr Mark & Family, just stirring :-)

[BigRAWesty]

Got to test out my ARB side awning and two awning sides with two double swags under it. Took me and the missus a bit to work out the best way to fit both swags under it for the first time setting it up, but it worked out good.
69107
That drop slide is a god send too. So much easier to access the fridge. Money well spent in my opinion.
Is it just you and the missus in 2 seperate double swags

[mudski]

.....................................

[mudski]

...........................

[mudski]

........................

[Bacho86]

Looks good mark, nice and neat. Did you build your own cage, or is that one of the msa ones?


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[mudski]

Looks good mark, nice and neat. Did you build your own cage, or is that one of the msa ones?


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Nah the MSA cage is nearly $500. I went to two local steel mobs for the mesh and they would only sell it in massive sections. Trying to declutter the garage it didnt want that so i got it from Dunn and Watson. It wasnt the right size, either too big or too small so i went the too big option and made it fit. The cage is mounted to the slide itself, not to the drawers. i had to buy longer bolts for the slide and change the slide bolts, then i could space out the side sections of the cage. Then make it up as i went to fit the top section. weird thing is the bolts that came with the cage couldn't be used for anything. Even too small too attached the top and back sections of the cage. After fitting i went for a drive and the rattle from the cage against the barrier was annoying. So a few zip ties later and is all quiet. Lol.

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[mudski]

Ok.
So I bought this High mount winch quite a few moons ago with the intention of building it up and "shoe horning" it into my ARB bar. This was some 2 years ago. Or there abouts. Things and life change and as usual, stuff gets left on the bench. I had stripped it apart, bought a few bits, and that pretty much how far I got. Until now.
So.
This is what I had bought....
80763
Pretty shabby. But like most High Mounts. They are built into unstoppable beasts!
I will quickly run through some pics to where I'm up to...

[mudski]

So I stripped it down and found a few things that needed to be fixed. Like the motor was fubar for one. But over all it wasn't too bad.
8076480765807668076780768807698077080771

[mudski]

I took the drum and housing and end plate to Mal at S.G Leslie & Sons in Heidelberg, this guy is the guru of High Mounts. He rebuilds brand new high mounts that have never seen a second of use and makes them better than what they already are. So with the drum he made its smaller. From 3inch to 2.5inch diameter, to fit more rope on. Also, shamfered the end plates so there wasn't a sharp edge to cut the rope, milled down the outer end where the plastic bush would sit, not I have a ball bearing that fits on the end plate.
He also added an extra oring at the main housing end for that extra protection to inside the housing.
807758077680777

[mudski]

Mal also welded on some tags for the braces. Supplied me with the bars to suit aswell. And also the drain plug at the bottom of the main housing.
807788077980780

[mudski]

So the add on bits I have bought are .
Freespool eliminator
https://www.the4wdshed.com/ballzy-bitz-free-spool-eliminator
Albright Solenoid
https://www.the4wdshed.com/albright-solenoid-12v
Gigglepin winch motor extended bolts. With the intention of mounting the solenoid to the rear of the motor....
https://www.the4wdshed.com/gigglepin-extended-winch-motor-bolts
Gigglepin heavy duty brake shoes.
https://www.the4wdshed.com/gigglepin-heavy-duty-brake-shoes
Gigglepin uprated heavy duty brake shaft kit
https://www.the4wdshed.com/gigglepin-heavy-duty-up-rated-brakeshaft-mainshaft

I also got a sticker kit from Warn in the states for nothing aswell, bonus.

I did buy the Iskra Mahle winch motor, but returned it as I wanted something faster. I know how these motors compare, they are good, really good, but slow. I hate winching at the best of times. So I will wait until my guy has either the Warn 6HP in stock or the Bow2.

[mudski]

Upon closer inspection I found a small grub screw in the main housing. Not seeing this before I can only assume Mal had put this here to lock in the brass bush that sits in the housing where the brake shaft runs through.
8079980800
I also added a triple roller bearing setup to the top housing gear. This usually runs two bearings.
808018080280803

[mudski]

The Stock Warn brake pad sitting on top of the Gigglepin brake pad. BIG difference!!!
80804

Next the brake assembly goes together...
8080580806

[mudski]

Then the brake assembly gets fitted into the housing, along with the drum. A few minutes later and its LOOKING SEXY!!!
80807
8080880809
8081080811

Thats as far as I have got...

So pretty much just waiting on the motor. Put the Pawl back on, add some oil, then the breather and stickers. Then I will remove the ARB bar and find my shoe horn to make it all fit...

[MudRunnerTD]

Looking awesome mate. Who told you the Ishkra motor was slow? I'm not sure that is accurate to be honest. The power is delivered differently , they don't suffer load as bad as the warn or bow to be honest and so don't slow down so much. Big winching on big hills the Ishkra will be king mate. Short snatch winching you might come our on top but it's seconds not minutes.

They are wound differently. If I had to choose and was running 12v then my.money would go on an Ishkra 100%

MB and Matty both have an Ishkra.

Well proven solid performer that is almost impossible to kill.

[Winnie]

Yes under 0 load the iskra is a little slower, but once loaded up the iskra is actually faster. The warn motor actually struggles a bit under load. Wish I went with the iskra.

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[Cuppa]

Nice!
Presumably for hardcore users?
Have never seen one in real life. Are they a lot bigger/heavier than low mount Warns? What sort of pulling power are they rated at & what sort of amps would they pull from a battery on 'full noise'?
If high mount means they somehow sit on top of the bullbar how so to avoid blocking airflow to the radiator?

[mudski]

Looking awesome mate. Who told you the Ishkra motor was slow? I'm not sure that is accurate to be honest. The power is delivered differently , they don't suffer load as bad as the warn or bow to be honest and so don't slow down so much. Big winching on big hills the Ishkra will be king mate. Short snatch winching you might come our on top but it's seconds not minutes.

They are wound differently. If I had to choose and was running 12v then my.money would go on an Ishkra 100%

MB and Matty both have an Ishkra.

Well proven solid performer that is almost impossible to kill.

Maybe my interpretation of what their slow is, is obviously way off the mark then Darren. Is was looking at getting maybe the Bow2 motor. But I’m in no rush so I have time to decide.


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[MudRunnerTD]

Ishkra for the win mate. 100% cheaper and a better option for your usage IMO.

[Winnie]

Nice!
Presumably for hardcore users?
Have never seen one in real life. Are they a lot bigger/heavier than low mount Warns? What sort of pulling power are they rated at & what sort of amps would they pull from a battery on 'full noise'?
If high mount means they somehow sit on top of the bullbar how so to avoid blocking airflow to the radiator?

High mount refers to the motor being mounted above the drum and driven by gears. Because of the design they are a lot bigger and a bit heavier than a standard low mount winch, this makes them much harder to fit to a bar too. Pic attached of how they look mounted. They do restrict a bit of airflow to the radiator for sure.
From standard Warn rate them at 8000lbs and always recommend a double line pull, but we are putting bigger motors and other mods to strengthen them up and give much more power.
Not sure what sort of current they would draw, all depends on which motor is used but they use the same style motor as is found on low mount winches.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/37.jpg

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[Winnie]

I've just done a little research Mudski, it looks like the Roadrunner bullet motors are rated as the best value motors at the moment.

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[Rossco]

Nice pic lol. Yeah its a bit funny the warn M8274 (high mount) the numbers refer to 8 (8000 pounds) 2 (two way - in and crappy freespool lol) and 74 year it was released. Originally came out with a 2.7HP motor then upgraded to a 4.6 HP but still rated at 8000 pounds although most put motors on at least 6HP along with other mod to strengthen so realistically capacity would be much greater.

Winch looks awesome BTW Markie time to sink the bugger and give a good test lol. . Once we're allowed out again damit. .

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[Cuppa]

High mount refers to the motor being mounted above the drum and driven by gears. Because of the design they are a lot bigger and a bit heavier than a standard low mount winch, this makes them much harder to fit to a bar too. Pic attached of how they look mounted. They do restrict a bit of airflow to the radiator for sure.
From standard Warn rate them at 8000lbs and always recommend a double line pull, but we are putting bigger motors and other mods to strengthen them up and give much more power.
Not sure what sort of current they would draw, all depends on which motor is used but they use the same style motor as is found on low mount winches.



Thanks Winnie, I learned something there. So would I be right in thinking that the main attraction is their ability to be beefed up beyond standard? ie. Are they a better thing than the higher rated low mounts? I guess being more accessible seems is a bonus too..... & they do look pretty tough. Are they still sold new?

[Rossco]

Yep still sold new and pretty much haven't changed since when they came out in 1974. Big advantages are external brake which is stronger but doesn't generate heat in the drum which can affect synthetic rope also having direct drive gearing as opposed to compact planetary style in a lowmount gives less losses in power and much stronger.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[MudRunnerTD]

I've just done a little research Mudski, it looks like the Roadrunner bullet motors are rated as the best value motors at the moment.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Where did you read that mate? Was it based on price? Output? Longevity? Low voltage performance, load speed,??

So.many variables. I reckon when the going gets tough anything with a 6hp or better in a himount will get it done.

mudski you will find your splitting hair for speed in any of the high output up motors. If you want fast them go 24v . If you staying 12v then the Iskra for $380 is a bargain.

[mudski]

mudski you will find your splitting hair for speed in any of the high output up motors. If you want fast them go 24v . If you staying 12v then the Iskra for $380 is a bargain.

It was only because of what I was told Darren, or my interpretation. I took it that the Iskra was quite slow compared to the others. Speed is not really a deciding factor for me now I know there's f.a speed difference. Whats the HP of the Iskra anyway. Only info I can find is that its a 1.6kw motor. From my quick findings this equates to around 2.2HP. Doesn't seem right.

[MudRunnerTD]

It was only because of what I was told Darren, or my interpretation. I took it that the Iskra was quite slow compared to the others. Speed is not really a deciding factor for me now I know there's f.a speed difference. Whats the HP of the Iskra anyway. Only info I can find is that its a 1.6kw motor. From my quick findings this equates to around 2.2HP. Doesn't seem right.

Hi Mark. It actually has more to do with how the motors are wound. The Iskra is i believe a continuous wound units that is designed for a static machine operation and continuous load and when adapted onto a 12v winch it was found that they simply dont load up like a series wound motor. They take the load and keep going. Lets face it that is when things really get ugly. Loaded and lacking current and the Iskra will just keep pulling.

These first came to light when a bloke had a Pallet of them sitting in a shed and figured they were the same spline count as a warn and offered them for peanuts to guys in the comp scene as spares. they were $150 and being handed out left right and centre just for the spares box. Seriously!! Excess Stock on Clearance. Give it a gfo! I was short of cash or i would have grabbed a couple. Well it turns out they are a Beast and plenty of guys running them as their motor of choice now in comps winch challenge trucks. I have not read of a single Dead Iskra motor.

[MudRunnerTD]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/37.jpg

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Damn that is a Great pic mate. You should have entered that in the Happy Place Photo thread. Great Track. Great Weekend.

[MudRunnerTD]

Extra little mod for you Mark. Sorry just spent 30 minutes looking for a pic but can't find one.

Drill 2 x 6mm holes through the case below the lip and through the retaining plate when in position. And the 2 x M6 bolts through. You need a 1mm spaces (maybe 2mm. A couple of washers) to space out the retainer so it slots into the top housing groove.

I have had this retainer Fail. Whole winch us out of action when it does. Easy mod makes a difference.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/38.jpg



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[Rossco]

Yeah definatly, I did that on mine, quick easy & cheap. .

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[mudski]

Extra little mod for you Mark. Sorry just spent 30 minutes looking for a pic but can't find one.

Drill 2 x 6mm holes through the case below the lip and through the retaining plate when in position. And the 2 x M6 bolts through. You need a 1mm spaces (maybe 2mm. A couple of washers) to space out the retainer so it slots into the top housing groove.

I have had this retainer Fail. Whole winch us out of action when it does. Easy mod makes a difference.





Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

Bloody legend you are. Thanks.

[tryan277]

Some photos of my own high mount mounted in an ARB on a GQ.
I cooked the original motor early last year so put the roadrunner bullet motor on and refurbished top and bottom using the std warn kits.
Seeing some of the mods suggested here next time it comes out will add them in.
Chose the roadrunner motor partly because it came with a breather fitting as std. The old motor had been modified with a breather.
As you say Mark it is shoehorned in. There are two ways to get mine out. Pull the bullbar off or pull the upper housing off then wriggle the bottom housing and drum out.
808158081480813

[MudRunnerTD]

Looks like you spaced that back a little Ryan? i have fitted a few into the ARB Deluxe bar and instead of spacing back i have notched the cross bar. looks tidy and give you a little more room at the back.

[tryan277]

The winch and bulbar were on the vehicle when we bought it. The winch is mounted hard against the std mounting holes with no spacing. Yes its tight. The plastic grill has been trimmed and have a front mounted intercooler.

Cheers
Trevor

[MudRunnerTD]

The winch and bulbar were on the vehicle when we bought it. The winch is mounted hard against the std mounting holes with no spacing. Yes its tight. The plastic grill has been trimmed and have a front mounted intercooler.

Cheers
Trevor

Cheers Trevor, that must be the Commercial bar ARB. Tidy, they have a bigger nose and designed for a himount. The deluxe bar needs a far bit of trimming to fit a himount in and a Big hole in the grille. Lol.

[mudski]

Ok I have the Iskra in my hands. Now. MB do I remove the plastic end piece or n the motor? As with it the motor won’t fit.
80825
80826


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[mudski]

Also Winnie.
How did you get the unpainted lines on the top hat? Thought I might try an make it look good. Lol


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[Winnie]

I painted it all and used sandpaper to take the top bit of paint off. It worked really well!

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[MB TD42]

I've pulled a few winches apart to overhaul in my time but never seen the inners of the high mount animal...
Nice job

We're all ere coz we ain't all there.

[MudRunnerTD]

Ok I have the Iskra in my hands. Now. MB do I remove the plastic end piece or n the motor? As with it the motor won’t fit.
80825
80826


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Nice one. That plastic is a transit jig I reckon mate. Remove and discard.

[mudski]

Nice one. That plastic is a transit jig I reckon mate. Remove and discard.

Yeah I was thinking that last night whilst trying to sleep in bed. I almost got out of bed at 2am just to remove it and see. Lol.

So what I want to do is mount the solenoid to the end of the motor. Maybe. There is already way too much happening in the engine bay so I dont really want to be adding to the confusion. The GP long motor bolts are too long for this job as the Iskra is a short motor compared to others. Upon closer inspection it just looks like they've used thread rod and put some sort of heat shrink over the middle section. I have two of said GP bolts in my possession.
I may either A, get the tap and die set out and cut a thread further down the GP bolt, or buy some threaded rod and make my own. I'll be looking closer to this over the weekend.

Soon, then I will be removing the bar and pulling the grinder and welder out.

[MB]

It’s looking great Mark, well done!
I believe Darren is correct and the Iskra/Mahle plastic end cover is for packing/transit only.
Just an idea but I mounted my Albright behind the grill, slightly off centre towards the drivers side up under the top body frame. IIRC there were already some 6mm or 8mm OEM holes facing forward to easily work with a flat made adapter plate for bolting the Albright safely behind. (I’ll try to remember to get some photos after work if you like)?
In regards your bar work, see if you can space the whole winch 10mm or so backwards with some vertical say 20mm x 10mm plates each side.
My Millweld has this as standard built in and it does surprisingly achieve a great deal of extra space for your rope.
Remember to not overload your spools/drums with too much rope length, for me the greatest advantage I believe of our High Mounts is the ability to haul for much longer off angle without binding up the line on one side like Low Mounts unfortunately suffer quite quickly which is devastating to rope burning/abrasion on the back of the bar.
Delta-Tek air free spools have a thinner diameter drum core if you’re looking for increased rope length than standard and their +76mm wider drum model can in theory fit IIRC about 50LM+ of 10mm although I only run about 35LM of 11mm for stress free, plenty of spool space left heavy ute hauls.
It can get bloody dangerous up there in our hills having to stop and restart winching multiple times due to rope binding offset and of course good quality trusted rope is very expensive and may find you pay off a Delta-Tek in only a few short gnarly adventures.
I do carry a spare roll of Whittams 12mm x 45LM (circa $300) in case of a serious straight double line pull if needed and the Delta-Tek drum has a super convenient angle rod on the drum centre/corner that takes only minutes to change over a fresh new safer line.
Stay safe mates!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

My scribble scale below is incorrect between Low versus High Mount larger outer drum diameters compared but hopefully this gives you an idea mate of the 10mm plates for spacing the High Mount backwards just that extra helpful amount too.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/51.jpg



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[PeeBee]

My scribble scale below is incorrect between Low versus High Mount larger outer drum diameters compared but hopefully this gives you an idea mate of the 10mm plates for spacing the High Mount backwards just that extra helpful amount too.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/04/51.jpg



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@MB, funny enough, the spacer mod is what I did to my hydraulic low mount and the same for the braces, however instead of being welded to the casing they are bolted. Improves the safety around rope build up for sure. I spaced mine out 20mm from memory, however my winch body is no where near as deep as the HM.

[MudRunnerTD]

It’s looking great Mark, well done!
I believe Darren is correct and the Iskra/Mahle plastic end cover is for packing/transit only.
Just an idea but I mounted my Albright behind the grill, slightly off centre towards the drivers side up under the top body frame. IIRC there were already some 6mm or 8mm OEM holes facing forward to easily work with a flat made adapter plate for bolting the Albright safely behind. (I’ll try to remember to get some photos after work if you like)?
In regards your bar work, see if you can space the whole winch 10mm or so backwards with some vertical say 20mm x 10mm plates each side.
My Millweld has this as standard built in and it does surprisingly achieve a great deal of extra space for your rope.
Remember to not overload your spools/drums with too much rope length, for me the greatest advantage I believe of our High Mounts is the ability to haul for much longer off angle without binding up the line on one side like Low Mounts unfortunately suffer quite quickly which is devastating to rope burning/abrasion on the back of the bar.
Delta-Tek air free spools have a thinner diameter drum core if you’re looking for increased rope length than standard and their +76mm wider drum model can in theory fit IIRC about 50LM+ of 10mm although I only run about 35LM of 11mm for stress free, plenty of spool space left heavy ute hauls.
It can get bloody dangerous up there in our hills having to stop and restart winching multiple times due to rope binding offset and of course good quality trusted rope is very expensive and may find you pay off a Delta-Tek in only a few short gnarly adventures.
I do carry a spare roll of Whittams 12mm x 45LM (circa $300) in case of a serious straight double line pull if needed and the Delta-Tek drum has a super convenient angle rod on the drum centre/corner that takes only minutes to change over a fresh new safer line.
Stay safe mates!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I totally agree. I only have about 30m of 12mm rope on my +76 Deltatek drum. Plenty of room for more but unnecessary. I carry a second 30m length of rope as a winch extension. Worst case it is a spare rope...

Note also that your winch is rated for pull at the drum. Add 6 layers of rope and you dramatically decrease pull and speed. Less is more.

Comp guys want heaps of rope for speed. 24v himount and no time for winch extension or double line pull setups. Go hard full noise. We have plenty of time so run less rope and use extensions for the win.

On my GU I also mounted the solenoid behind the grill off the radiator support panel.

[MudRunnerTD]

I took the drum and housing and end plate to Mal at S.G Leslie & Sons in Heidelberg, this guy is the guru of High Mounts. He rebuilds brand new high mounts that have never seen a second of use and makes them better than what they already are. So with the drum he made its smaller. From 3inch to 2.5inch diameter, to fit more rope on. Also, shamfered the end plates so there wasn't a sharp edge to cut the rope, milled down the outer end where the plastic bush would sit, not I have a ball bearing that fits on the end plate.
He also added an extra oring at the main housing end for that extra protection to inside the housing.
807758077680777

MB he had Mal Leslie modify the drum and reduce the centre from 75mm to 65mm. Not heaps but maybe 1 layer. I'm surprised Mal didn't go to 50mm. Mal also welded the back bracing on and a Bearing in the end plate like I put on ABs