Mudski GU Build Thread

[Ben-e-boy]

Hi Mark. It actually has more to do with how the motors are wound. The Iskra is i believe a continuous wound units that is designed for a static machine operation and continuous load and when adapted onto a 12v winch it was found that they simply dont load up like a series wound motor. They take the load and keep going. Lets face it that is when things really get ugly. Loaded and lacking current and the Iskra will just keep pulling.

There is a bit of confusion there. These are likely to be a series wound motor just like every other winch motor, as cranes, hoist, winches etc are the primary use of a series wound motor. The iskra is probably a continuous duty motor? Maybe more poles for more torque?
There are basically 3 types of basic DC motor. Series wound, shunt wound and Compound wound (series and shunt)

[MudRunnerTD]

There is a bit of confusion there. These are likely to be a series wound motor just like every other winch motor, as cranes, hoist, winches etc are the primary use of a series wound motor. The iskra is probably a continuous duty motor? Maybe more poles for more torque?
There are basically 3 types of basic DC motor. Series wound, shunt wound and Compound wound (series and shunt)

Thanks Bene, good to see you about mate, hope your well. How is your TD looking mate? Have you got a plan bud?

[mudski]

So I really need to get my arse into gear and get this done and fitted. I went out yesterday to get a load of firewood and wanted to winch a great bit of timber up the hill a bit. Winch was dead as a door nail. Last use was winching the lumbered massive pine at my place with Rossco. It was playing up then but won’t work now.


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[Ben-e-boy]

Thanks Bene, good to see you about mate, hope your well. How is your TD looking mate? Have you got a plan bud?

I'm getting by. I have a plan of getting a GU and put my speed parts on it and have soley a touring type setup.


I would like to do the snow trip if I find a decent rig in time. But there are so many over priced pieces of crap for sale

[mudski]

Righto. Oil time. Been reading over the webs and seeing different answers. 30w oil is recommended. Which I assume is engine oul. Can’t say I’ve seen a straight 30 gear oil. But I’ve read others just using your regular 80/90gear oil and similar types. 6 Fluid ounces is Warns recommendation. Stick with this?


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[Winnie]

Righto. Oil time. Been reading over the webs and seeing different answers. 30w oil is recommended. Which I assume is engine oul. Can’t say I’ve seen a straight 30 gear oil. But I’ve read others just using your regular 80/90gear oil and similar types. 6 Fluid ounces is Warns recommendation. Stick with this?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLawnmower engine oil.

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[Rossco]

Originally found some outboard gear oil close to what's recommended but since have just used normal gear oil which sure will be fine. Bout 180-200ml should do. .

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[mudski]

Lawnmower engine oil.

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Righto. Which is the 30w engine oil I have. Cheers.


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[mudski]

She’s nearly finished!
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I have the Iskra Mahle motor mounted on shortened Gigglepin motor mounting bolts.
I then made up my own mounting bracket for the solenoid.
My last issue. I seem to have misplaced the bolts for the freespool delete thingo...
80912

Other than that, and wiring the solenoid to the motor. It’s ready. Yeah baby!


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[Rossco]

Holy moly Markie looks smick as too good to use lol . Sticker on top is upside down but. .

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[mudski]

Holy moly Markie looks smick as too good to use lol . Sticker on top is upside down but. .

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Yeah I know but thats where the hole was drilled in the hat, so I just flipped the sticker to suit. Gotta find these bloody screws too. I think I will also change the top hat bolts to stainless steel and also the mounting bolts.
Where do I go to get the leads made for the motor to solenoid? Auto elec? I don't have the tools to make these.

[MB]

Industrial Sparkies are essentially busy these days I hear Mark mate but maybe after hours solo shed time casholly and Australia Post delivery might slow one we know down ;-)


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[mudski]

Industrial Sparkies are essentially busy these days I hear Mark mate but maybe after hours solo shed time casholly and Australia Post delivery might slow one we know down ;-)


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Yeah I will get this fitted up first then worry about wiring it in. Plus I want to wire in dash switches too. And I have a remote kit aswell I'd like to wire in, if I can.

[Winnie]

Yeah I know but thats where the hole was drilled in the hat, so I just flipped the sticker to suit. Gotta find these bloody screws too. I think I will also change the top hat bolts to stainless steel and also the mounting bolts.
Where do I go to get the leads made for the motor to solenoid? Auto elec? I don't have the tools to make these.Yeah an industrial sparkie or some auto elecs will be able to do it pretty quick, just finding one with the time at the moment will be your real struggle.
I did see somewhere for sale some premade copper bars rather than cable which would be awesome.

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[MB]

Sounds great mate, watch them remote kits though, nearly crushed ourselves with a chinese version on a work logging trailer a while ago. Went straight afterwards to the Warn remote (horribly priced) but had zero scary lag like the other death trap design!!


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[nissannewby]

Yeah I know but thats where the hole was drilled in the hat, so I just flipped the sticker to suit. Gotta find these bloody screws too. I think I will also change the top hat bolts to stainless steel and also the mounting bolts.
Where do I go to get the leads made for the motor to solenoid? Auto elec? I don't have the tools to make these.

Be careful putting stainless anywhere load is required. Off the shelf stuff does not have the same rating as a grade 8 tensile bolt.

Do you guys have cooldrive near by?? These guys can sell you pre-made lengths of your requested cable or make them to your custom length. Other mobs similar to them should also be able to supply.

[PeeBee]

Mark, I have one of those hydraulic crimp set-ups you are welcome to borrow if you go down the path or making your own leads. Handles a wide range of cable sizes. Slow and steady, bit of shrink tube and happy days.

[PeeBee]

Be careful putting stainless anywhere load is required. Off the shelf stuff does not have the same rating as a grade 8 tensile bolt.

Do you guys have cooldrive near by?? These guys can sell you pre-made lengths of your requested cable or make them to your custom length. Other mobs similar to them should also be able to supply.

Good point about the Stainless. Also, put a bit of never-seize of equivalent on the thread, not Loctite. SS is tough but more plastic and will readily deform and bind up in even dissimilar metal combo's. Just bought some M30 threaded bar for work - high tensile grade of 316SS - $1500/m M30 - poison but application specific.

[nissannewby]

Yep. Got a quote not long ago for some rated stainless socket head cap screws for an underwater pump. They were m20x60 and were just over $80 each.

[mudski]

Mark, I have one of those hydraulic crimp set-ups you are welcome to borrow if you go down the path or making your own leads. Handles a wide range of cable sizes. Slow and steady, bit of shrink tube and happy days.

Thanks Phil I may take you up on that offer. Not sure how to use them but I’m sure I’ll learn.
Almost time to remove the bar and get the grinder out.
I’ve been toying with the idea of cutting the loops off the ARB bar and just having the steel bumper section. I kinda like the look of that but I do realise the usefulness and added protection the loops give.
Thoughts?


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[PeeBee]

Thanks Phil I may take you up on that offer. Not sure how to use them but I’m sure I’ll learn.
Almost time to remove the bar and get the grinder out.
I’ve been toying with the idea of cutting the loops off the ARB bar and just having the steel bumper section. I kinda like the look of that but I do realise the usefulness and added protection the loops give.
Thoughts?


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Mark, I am probably going to be over at MB's and AB's work early next week to drop some goodies off, so happy to drop it with them - suspect its a bit closer Xmas Hill than Knox? Let me know by Monday and its done. Its really simple to use, you cant stuff it up and cant break anything - just my type of tool!

[mudski]

Mark, I am probably going to be over at MB's and AB's work early next week to drop some goodies off, so happy to drop it with them - suspect its a bit closer Xmas Hill than Knox? Let me know by Monday and its done. Its really simple to use, you cant stuff it up and cant break anything - just my type of tool!

If you don't mind that would be great. Thank you....

[PeeBee]

If you don't mind that would be great. Thank you....

OK, Monday or Tuesday I am thinking

[Rossco]

Thanks Phil I may take you up on that offer. Not sure how to use them but I’m sure I’ll learn.
Almost time to remove the bar and get the grinder out.
I’ve been toying with the idea of cutting the loops off the ARB bar and just having the steel bumper section. I kinda like the look of that but I do realise the usefulness and added protection the loops give.
Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI reckon keep the loops but that's just me . .

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[mudski]

I reckon keep the loops but that's just me . .

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Yeah kinda undecided. I saw a GU same as mine with a cut up bar and it looked really good. Just not sure though...

[MB]

Must say, some of our Arctic snow truck members nudge bars look awesome too!
Fortunately for them though there’s not too many roos over there or track edge saplings hindering their open plains driving.
Had only a custom built heavy C channel nudge bar on an old FJ55 years ago with my first stocky 2.5hp HM top half sitting proud up and unprotected. Looked great but really forced me to choose stupid lines along tracks just to protect its head lights and panels which in turn no doubt caused more damage underneath dropping into ruts and the like that could have easily been avoided by just deliberately clipping a few whilst barging through!


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[mudski]

So what size cable should I buy? I obviously need cable ends too.

[Ben-e-boy]

So what size cable should I buy? I obviously need cable ends too.

It's a 130+ Amp motor, probably 70mm2 is what I would use.

[Rossco]

Yeah go 70mm most run that with HM's

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[mudski]

Righto so she’s done. Got my Stainless screws and they’re in. Apart from making the leads. It’s almost time to remove the bar.
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[PeeBee]

Mudski, I dropped off the hyd crimper to MB and AB work today. It is configured for the 70mm cable already - largest it will do. Make contact with those guys to pick it up.

[MB]

“crimper” what bloody crimper?
Doors are shut brothers!


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[mudski]

Mudski, I dropped off the hyd crimper to MB and AB work today. It is configured for the 70mm cable already - largest it will do. Make contact with those guys to pick it up.

Thanks Phil. I appreciate it.


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[mudski]

“crimper” what bloody crimper?
Doors are shut brothers!


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Who’s taking it home? I’ll drop out on Saturday to where ever it may be.


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[MB]

AB mate!

EDIT: “Bring box of Corona’s” he says :-)

EDIT #2: My apologies ( misunderstood the UHF) “stay away fools!”


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[mudski]

The front is slowly looking a bit bare... Old slow mount is out, driving lights off, I might even get the whole bar off tonight80996


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[mudski]

Well that was easier than I remembered...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/70.jpg


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[MB]

You’re on the home stretch Mark Mate!
Honestly, you’ve whipped that bar off tonight quicker than I could’ve done back in my 20’s with a ‘Snatch-Em’ misguided :-)
Keep up the great work, your well pimped HM will serve you well in the bush rotating tough as nails soon [emoji106][emoji106]



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[mudski]

You’re on the home stretch Mark Mate!
Honestly, you’ve whipped that bar off tonight quicker than I could’ve done back in my 20’s with a ‘Snatch-Em’ misguided :-)
Keep up the great work, your well pimped HM will serve you well in the bush rotating tough as nails soon [emoji106][emoji106]



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Thanks but i soon found a bit of a set back. The rad support panel is rusted. Both sides. Ugh! Not what I need...
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[MB]

Shocking, you’ve always kept the beast washed and cleaned, even after salty crud from new mate?
How much do you want for the old pig, and or let’s comp truck it ?[emoji106][emoji106]



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[mudski]

Shocking, you’ve always kept the beast washed and cleaned, even after salty crud from new mate?
How much do you want for the old pig, and or let’s comp truck it ?[emoji106][emoji106]



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Insurance time. Write off! I can hear a Y62 calling me.
Just seen I can still buy a new support panel. I guess I need to strip it down now and get a new panel. What an absolute pain! I wonder if I leave it how long it will last.

[MB]

How long is a piece of string Brother :-)


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[mudski]

Yeah I know. I really, really don’t want to be doing this though.


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[Rossco]

Can't just stip it back clean and rattle can rebuild or too buggered? Hard to tell from pic but doesn't look too bad. . On second thoughts I think she's rooted Ill take it off your hand for ya [emoji6]. .

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[mudski]

Can't just stip it back clean and rattle can rebuild or too buggered? Hard to tell from pic but doesn't look too bad. . On second thoughts I think she's rooted Ill take it off your hand for ya [emoji6]. .

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I doesn't look too bad bud I can tell it is as the area is actually swollen, so the rust is on the inside and pushing out. These are prone to do it. Dumb design, the lower tube section where its rusted out is open and free for water to just sit inside it. When I did the body mounts about four years ago I remember the bolts for the front mounts, which go directly through this rusted area, were really rusted and I had to buy new bolts.
I'll get the die grinder out tonight and have a dig at it and see if i can repair it. Changing this panel over means getting the AC degassed, or I do it myself ;), removing the entire front of the car pretty much. I have a free TJM OX winch here for anyone who wants to do this for me. Haha!

[Rossco]

Ah bugger rodger, yeah once it starts poping fron the other side no good. Good luck with it lol hopefully come up good enough. .

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[mudski]

Ugh! Just killed my Dremel! Another thing to buy now. Second one I have killed. Both died the same way too. And they don’t get used a hell of a lot...


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[jay see]

How long is a piece of string Brother :-)


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A piece of string is twice as long as half its length.[emoji1787][emoji23]

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[rusty_nail]

Ugh! Just killed my Dremel! Another thing to buy now. Second one I have killed. Both died the same way too. And they don’t get used a hell of a lot...


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMaybe look at the Milwaukee die grinder? Might be a little more robust.

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[PeeBee]

Maybe look at the Milwaukee die grinder? Might be a little more robust.

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Good idea I reckon. I have a Dremel and find it annoying how small the parts are for work bits - bearing in mind it is more a hobby grinder, than the Milwaukee, which I suppose allows use of the 6mm shank grinding tools as well.

[MB]

Great idea Nic, welcome to borrow mine Saturday quickly if you like Mark?
Using it today and Monday 6:00am though mate!


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[Rossco]

Yeah my Dremmel blew up too, never found it real handy all the little bits wear away so quick. That Milwake die grinder of your is a beast MB, I just got an air one for cost sakes which is probably equally as good but needs a lot of air to run, only short bursts with my little project air jobbie another thing that could do with an upgrade damit . .

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[mudski]

Maybe look at the Milwaukee die grinder? Might be a little more robust.

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Yeah I've been looking at those. I should really have been using one of those instead of the Dremel, but I was only cutting a small section to have a look and it just stopped. I will still by another dremel as they are really great to use for small stuff.

I think I will just have to bite the bullet and get a die grinder though. I can see I will need something like this soon when it comes to cutting and shaping the bar to fit the high mount.

[Rossco]

Yeah I finally came to my senses after slogging away countless times with a round file lol . . Funny exact same thing happened to my dremel had bugger all use too damn thing. .

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[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah i used a Laminate Trimmer as a Die grinder for all my bar work. (1/4" shank is the same size as a die grinder and takes a die grinder bit) worked pretty well as it is variable speed and i set it to 14,000rpm as per a die grinder. worked well.

BUT. 12 months ago i came across a second hand 18v makita die grinder along with a few other items and grabbed it. Man o Man!! It is a whole other level. I must say now that i dont use it much but when i need it Nothing does it like it. No Brainer. i should have grabbed one 10 years ago. 18v or 240v they are cheaper than a dremel and are next level. a Dremel is a toy and good for engraving maybe but any real stock removal and the die grinder is a Beast.

[mudski]

Yeah i used a Laminate Trimmer as a Die grinder for all my bar work. (1/4" shank is the same size as a die grinder and takes a die grinder bit) worked pretty well as it is variable speed and i set it to 14,000rpm as per a die grinder. worked well.

BUT. 12 months ago i came across a second hand 18v makita die grinder along with a few other items and grabbed it. Man o Man!! It is a whole other level. I must say now that i dont use it much but when i need it Nothing does it like it. No Brainer. i should have grabbed one 10 years ago. 18v or 240v they are cheaper than a dremel and are next level. a Dremel is a toy and good for engraving maybe but any real stock removal and the die grinder is a Beast.

The dremel works fine for the small things, they have their place, they are brilliant for the small things and mods I've done. I've never had the need for a die grinder, but will for the bar mods coming up, so I will be grabbing a 18V Milwaukee unit.

[MudRunnerTD]

The dremel works fine for the small things, they have their place, they are brilliant for the small things and mods I've done. I've never had the need for a die grinder, but will for the bar mods coming up, so I will be grabbing a 18V Milwaukee unit.

yeah to be honest i thought so too but then i got a real die grinder and it just eats it mate. I think back to all the work i did labouring away for hours trying to grind stuff into shape then use a real die grinder and bloody hell! I have an Air one too but dont rate it by comparison to the 18v one. It sucks a HEAP of air so slows quickly even hooked up to a decent compressor

[rusty_nail]

The dremel works fine for the small things, they have their place, they are brilliant for the small things and mods I've done. I've never had the need for a die grinder, but will for the bar mods coming up, so I will be grabbing a 18V Milwaukee unit.

MB s Milwaukee jobbo is great mate, as you already run that line it's a no brainer, and once you have it you will find other uses for it, you have just never needed one before just because you don't have one.

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[mudski]

Ok. I’ve spent the last 20 minutes at cutting the rust out in the hope it’s not as bad as I thought.
I may be wrong.81016
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There’s like an inner and out section and it’s rusted in between the two. I’m getting dangerously close to the a/c condenser so I had to stop.
I could still cut way more out I reckon.
Not sure if I should treat it and try some how to patch it up. Or start ripping the front end off and replace it.
Fuck it! Pissed me off this has!


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[PeeBee]

Mark, how much of a job to replace this sub assy - is it bolted or spot welded in place. I suspect the corrosion will be extended on those members - I work in an acid plant attached to the mine and see this sort of thing all the time - once it starts the cancer grows quickly. Sure you are not in the same situation however I think chasing this locally is going to end in tears and frustration unfortunately. Really sorry to see this, feel for you.

[mudski]

Mark, how much of a job to replace this sub assy - is it bolted or spot welded in place. I suspect the corrosion will be extended on those members - I work in an acid plant attached to the mine and see this sort of thing all the time - once it starts the cancer grows quickly. Sure you are not in the same situation however I think chasing this locally is going to end in tears and frustration unfortunately. Really sorry to see this, feel for you.

The rust is only in those pics but maybe a centimetre or so further out. It’s only where the double wall sections are. I has put my inspection camera in the lower rubber section and there’s nothing.
So everything you see in this pic from the engine forward. Needs to come off.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/78.jpg

Which means a/c, radiator assy, power steering oil cooler, lights, fans all wiring and what else there is. I have been told this will be spot weld in place too. I’m trying to see where but haven’t found yet. Plus I may need to loosen the second and maybe third row body mounts so I can remove the front mounts. If I do, that also means removing the front seats and carpet to access the bolts. Not sure if I need to do this though.
Time to stop and drink some whiskey and think on it. This is a lot to sink in.
I could hit it with acid to clean it up. Then have a crack at patching it up and hoping for the best.
Or. Start stripping her down.

I could be worse Phil. And be jobless. As much as it’s pissed me off....


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[Rossco]

Yeah definatly worthwhile sitting down with a bevvy to think through even sit on it for a night and have a fresh look in the morn always helps. .

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[jay see]

Looks like you've got a big job there Mark. Thanks for reminding me never to look there. If time permits I would be changing it. Unless you're planning on moving it on.

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[mudski]

Looks like you've got a big job there Mark. Thanks for reminding me never to look there. If time permits I would be changing it. Unless you're planning on moving it on.

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Yeah it is a big job. Never done it, nor can I find any info/ inter web build threads etc about what’s involved. So I’m going in blind pretty much. I think tomorrow, I will unbolt the front body mounts and see if I can jack the body up enough. Or something. Just to gauge on the job what lies ahead.
I’m a bit confused on where or what to do to be honest.


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[rusty_nail]

Yeah it is a big job. Never done it, nor can I find any info/ inter web build threads etc about what’s involved. So I’m going in blind pretty much. I think tomorrow, I will unbolt the front body mounts and see if I can jack the body up enough. Or something. Just to gauge on the job what lies ahead.
I’m a bit confused on where or what to do to be honest.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBe easier to get a wreck and replace that bit?

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[Rossco]

Yeah patrolapart would surely cut that bit out to graft in. Bit of stuffing round but at least it's not visible so doesn't matter if it's not a bang on job. .

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[BillsGU]

Do you know a panel beater to ask? Surely there have been Patrols with front end damage where those bits had to be replaced.

[mudski]

I have decided to cut the damage out and weld in a plate.
.
.
.
.
.
I think.


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[Winnie]

I reckon that's a good choice mate and is 100% what I would do.

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[mudski]

I reckon that's a good choice mate and is 100% what I would do.

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Have you seen my welding? I liken it to chicken poo...

But. I'll give it a crack! If I fail. Then I go to plan C. Drive it into a tree :icon_driving: Lol. I'll find some 1mm or 1.5mm plate from somewhere and use that. I have some 3mm plate but its too hard to work with and shape.

[jay see]

I'll find some 1mm or 1.5mm plate from somewhere and use that. I have some 3mm plate but its too hard to work with and shape.

Yell out if you need some steel. I could grab some from work. Have both 1 and 1.6mm.

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[mudski]

Yell out if you need some steel. I could grab some from work. Have both 1 and 1.6mm.

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Thanks John. 1.6 would be ideal. I don't need a lot. I'll see if I can get something local if not I'll contact you.

[Rossco]

Valley Steel Sales next door to our depot are very handy but not open on Sunday. Bunnings should have some sheet enough to do the job anyways. Drill some holes and do some plug welds might be a good way to go, have a practice first lol. .

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[mudski]

So I got zip done this weekend. Will try and do some repairs during the week to get this sorted.

[mudski]

Slowly but surely. Will mig this 1.6mm plate into place. I’ve cut out as much rust as I can. The rest has had a good soak in the rust treatment stuff. The plates are a fair bit bigger than the affect area. I know doing a remove and refit is the best choice, but I am really not sure on what to do so this is what I’ll do and I’ll worry about it later. Good practice anyways.

81043

Oh! And!
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[emoji16]

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[mudski]

Got a bit more done tonight.
Not the best at welding but....
81064

Both sides done, sealed up with Sikaflex and then painted.
81065

Now to get back to getting this high mount into the bar.



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[mudski]

Ok. She’s ready for the cut n’ shut. With a fubar’d back it was enough just getting the bar up on the bench.
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[mudski]

Well I measured it all out. Got the grinder and cut away.
81105
I want to fill in these holes in the bar too while I’m at at.
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[mudski]

Filled the odd shaped hole in on the top and the two large round holes.
Not a bad job for a noob welder.
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Just waiting on an answer from ARB if the rubber bumpers are still available before I cut them out. The bolts holding them in are really rusted and need to be cut off.
I’m trying to get another weld on two aerial mounts from ARB as well. ARB being a customer of mine I have a few contacts on the inside so hopefully they come through with the goods. I might have to hit them up for some BP’s too I reckon.
Gotta weld in this plate to fill the front hole too.
It used to have a W in this hole for Warn.
81123


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[Family4x4]

What hole? Nice work Mark, also nice welding safety moccos.

[mudski]

What hole? Nice work Mark, also nice welding safety moccos.

Yep, had me moccos on mate. Safety first!
If I had a larger grinder, mine is a 115mm, the grinds using the flappy disc would be a lot smoother. As when I run my hand over the area it’s like the Grand Canyon. Not too worried though as the spotties will cover this area. Just getting rid of the useless holes.


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[mudski]

Go the front plate cut and spot welded in. Not sure if I weld the plate the heat is going to damage the bumper though.
I got a contact at ARB head office chasing new rubbers for me but they are not sure if they are available. As I will have to cut these off. I’ll just wait and see next week before I decided on a plan.
Hopefully I can as I want to get the bar sandblasted and powdercoated too when it’s done.
81125


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[PeeBee]

Get a sopping wet tea towel and do a small weld and quench the area immediately. I have done this with success many times, Just keep the weld zone small and absolutely quickly apply the teatowel to the hot area, lots of water.

[mudnut]

Get a bit of copper pipe, split it open, beat it flat and jam it in behind each weld with a thick plate of steel behind it. This and Phil's method combined should really suck out the heat.

[Rossco]

Nice patch job Markie looking good mate [emoji106][emoji106]

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[mudski]

Well being the impatient person I am. I welded it up. Just did a small section at a time let it cool with the help of a spray of water.
81127


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[mudski]

The final fit up of the winch I had to cut more out.
81128
I was hoping to get the bit out in the bottom left of the pic with adjusts the depth of the bar when mounted up. But it seems it’s seized/ rusted in and I’m worried I’ll snap the thread off. It’s been soaked it everything, hit with heat, frozen and it’s got to a point it won’t go any further without breaking. This is all that’s holding me up now. So close...


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[mudski]

Nice patch job Markie looking good mate [emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah it’s pretty dodgy though. My knowledge of this is limited so I did the best I could. It’s not nice and flat where I’ve welded up but pretty good and most of it won’t be visible as the spotties will be covering it up.
Just hope I can get these bumper rubbers.


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[mudski]

Well ARB are firing up the old plant and will be making two new bumpers for me. I should have them in a week or two.
81136


Going to weld on two extra aerial tags too.
I have done a test fit of the high mount bolted in. Fitted up good.
81133
81134
81135


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[mudski]

Once the tags are on, I'll be sending it off to be sandblasted then powdercoated. Any suggestions before I take it away?

[tryan277]

Once the tags are on, I'll be sending it off to be sandblasted then powdercoated. Any suggestions before I take it away?

How are the moccy's holding up??? Need a new pair yet or getting them sandblasted as well!!!
Have you done a test fit to the vehicle? How much plastic grill do you have to remove?

Cheers
Trevor

[mudski]

How are the moccy's holding up??? Need a new pair yet or getting them sandblasted as well!!!
Have you done a test fit to the vehicle? How much plastic grill do you have to remove?

Cheers
Trevor

Mate the moccos are holding up really well. I will require a new pair though, which I'll get as soon as the Vic markets re open. Lol. Not sure on how much grille I'll have to remove, I'll get to that when it comes to fitting it up.

[mudski]

So now I have to wait until ARB get my bits in. I hate waiting....
So I’ve pulled the dash apart and will start on the in cab wiring of the isolator and winch in/out switch.
Looking at the back on the in/out switch there’s too many pins, 7 of them. Lol. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this part?
81141
81142



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[mudski]

I’m going to move my light bar and spotties switch to down on the gear shift console too so the winch switches will be in the best spot.
81143


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[Rossco]

So now I have to wait until ARB get my bits in. I hate waiting....
So I’ve pulled the dash apart and will start on the in cab wiring of the isolator and winch in/out switch.
Looking at the back on the in/out switch there’s too many pins, 7 of them. Lol. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this part?
81141
81142



Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHopefully this helps. .
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/05/161.jpg

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[jay see]

So now I have to wait until ARB get my bits in. I hate waiting....
So I’ve pulled the dash apart and will start on the in cab wiring of the isolator and winch in/out switch.
Looking at the back on the in/out switch there’s too many pins, 7 of them. Lol. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this part?
81141
81142



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I can't remember for the life of me mate. Might have something on my build thread if not there's always your two other friends Google and YouTube..

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[jay see]

Mate the moccos are holding up really well. I will require a new pair though, which I'll get as soon as the Vic markets re open. Lol.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1444331432526344/permalink/2388026831490128/

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[mudski]

Hopefully this helps. .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Thanks.
Just gotta work out the schematics of it all. Do I need to use any relays? Also I'm thinking of getting some small 2mm, or similar, 7 core trailer wire and use this as a loom to out of the cab. I should need anything heavier you think?

[Rossco]

Yeah think I just sketched it all before I did it to get my head around it all. Trailer wire should be fine, don't need any relays big solenoid does everything. Worth thinking about when you do it is putting buttons up front on the bar very very handy and also some strip lighting above the winch which picks up power fron the isolator, very handy in the dark obviusly. . .

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[Winnie]

Yeah think I just sketched it all before I did it to get my head around it all. Trailer wire should be fine, don't need any relays big solenoid does everything. Worth thinking about when you do it is putting buttons up front on the bar very very handy and also some strip lighting above the winch which picks up power fron the isolator, very handy in the dark obviusly. . .

Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkYep buttons on the bar are a must! I left them out and really regret it, running out the winch rope solo is a mission now. Need to find some motivation to add them in.
A light above the winch that illuminates when you activate the in cab isolation switch is also a bloody good idea too, I didn't do that either damn it.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[jay see]

Yep buttons on the bar are a must! I left them out and really regret it, running out the winch rope solo is a mission now. Need to find some motivation to add them in.
A light above the winch that illuminates when you activate the in cab isolation switch is also a bloody good idea too, I didn't do that either damn it.

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkWhat he said. I find myself in the same predicament.

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[PeeBee]

Guys what are the advantages of the buttons as against the control cable and handset? I ask as I have a 8m cable for both the front and rear winches and don't find it a problem getting cable off or on and can stay well out of the line of fire as well. Is this more for re-spooling after a recovery?
I also added a led strip light over the front winch drum and makes a big difference for sure, need to work one out for the rear - somehow

[jay see]

Guys what are the advantages of the buttons as against the control cable and handset? I ask as I have a 8m cable for both the front and rear winches and don't find it a problem getting cable off or on and can stay well out of the line of fire as well. Is this more for re-spooling after a recovery?
I also added a led strip light over the front winch drum and makes a big difference for sure, need to work one out for the rear - somehowIn my case, my controller sh!t itself and I couldn't find a replacement (t max) I also needed to replace the solenoid So I decided to run in cab controls.

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[Rossco]

Guys what are the advantages of the buttons as against the control cable and handset? I ask as I have a 8m cable for both the front and rear winches and don't find it a problem getting cable off or on and can stay well out of the line of fire as well. Is this more for re-spooling after a recovery?
I also added a led strip light over the front winch drum and makes a big difference for sure, need to work one out for the rear - somehowYeah buttons are for respooling with no load and also highmounts without a snazzy air freespool upgrade need to be powered out with the motor as the factory freespool is damn near useless as your spinning all the gears by hand and is very hard yacka. Convenience of buttons vs plug in controller is you don't have to fish it out, plug it in, feed throug window etc, but other than that serves same propose. Also as you ending up building the whole system from scratch it's eaisier and cheaper to source switches and all the gear to sit up this way if that makes sense. .

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[mudski]

Rossco I think I have it worked out without the external switches.
81149

Can you use your external switches with the isolator switch off?


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[Ben-e-boy]

Rossco I think I have it worked out without the external switches.
81149

Can you use your external switches with the isolator switch off?


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All the lights will be on as soon as you switch on accessory power.
Should the lower lights be switched with the isolator or come on with headlights? Or do you just want them on

[mudski]

All the lights will be on as soon as you switch on accessory power.
Should the lower lights be switched with the isolator or come on with headlights? Or do you just want them on

Ah yeah I see. If I link 4 to 1 and 6 to 3 they should come on when pressed... Thanks.

[mudski]

Should be right now?
81158


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[Rossco]

6 from the isolator switch should go to a wire that picks up power when headlights on. The buttons up front on mine don't work unless isolator is on, so just pick up power from 3 on isolator switch and also use this for your led strip light if your going to use it.

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[tryan277]

My 2 cents worth
Separate the location of the winch isolator switch and the operational switch (in/out)
Isolator on dash somewhere where it cannot be easily knocked (and winch powered up without realizing) and in/out switch on console. If things are hairy don't want the switches next to each other, and in haste press the wrong one!
Consider a wireless remote. If caught out on your own can spool out while dragging winch line to point of attachment and winch back in to take up slack ensuring straps, protectors etc position themselves as intended, before doing the actual recovery.

Cheers Trevor

[mudski]

My 2 cents worth
Separate the location of the winch isolator switch and the operational switch (in/out)
Isolator on dash somewhere where it cannot be easily knocked (and winch powered up without realizing) and in/out switch on console. If things are hairy don't want the switches next to each other, and in haste press the wrong one!
Consider a wireless remote. If caught out on your own can spool out while dragging winch line to point of attachment and winch back in to take up slack ensuring straps, protectors etc position themselves as intended, before doing the actual recovery.

Cheers Trevor

Thanks, yep the switches will be positioned properly. Do you know of any remote switches that work with the GP solenoids? I haven't really looked at these to be honest but a remote would be a great handy thing to have.

[Rossco]

A quick Ebay search and looks like most kits have a reciever which you could easily wire up to trigger the solenoid. .

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[tryan277]

81165
As roscoe said they all work the same so brand of solenoid does not matter. I have a GP as well but mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. The receiver is mounted at the front right just under the front lip of the bonnet.
My controller and receiver is the same as the picture.
Another advantage is that if you need to check/test/respool under load before the next adventure you can easily do this on you own.

Cheers Trevor

[Ben-e-boy]

Should be right now?
81158


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I have suspicion that terminals 1,2 & 3 are another set of contacts. Do you have a meter you can check that? As per your drawing terminal 2 doesnt need to be there

[Rossco]

Pretty sure 1,2 & 3 justt control the LEDs, not sure about number 2 tho not sure why you would need that? Mine is wired up so when you push up on switch upper light comes on and down on switch lower light comes on and isn't illuminated when dash lights turned on. Thiknig about having a fiddle and putting 1 to power with dash lights then it should be illuminated when dash lights on, then bridging 4 & 6 to 3 then should illuminate upper light when winching out or in . . . In theory lol but think upper light does come on within switch with the normal on off ones anyway. Anyway need to see if it all works in practice lol, will start playing with mine, have a winch freespool switch coming in the mail so will have a play soon. .

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[mudski]

So my bits finally arrived from ARB. New bumpers, two extra aerial tabs and a noo sticker.
Just a tad nervous on welding the tabs on. I’m an ok welder but if I feck it up it would have been a waste waiting for them. Hmm. Do I go for it or ring my mate who is a professional welder? And wait for him to do it, which may be over the weekend.
81219



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[PeeBee]

If in doubt, wait for the pro- its only 2 days away and doubt you could get anything done to the bar until monday? Or forge ahead, and take a leap of faith - they are not structural and I am guessing all you want is a nice looking bead?

[mudski]

If in doubt, wait for the pro- its only 2 days away and doubt you could get anything done to the bar until monday? Or forge ahead, and take a leap of faith - they are not structural and I am guessing all you want is a nice looking bead?

Well the impatient prick I am. Welded them. Gotta say. I’m actually happy with my welds. A little bit of spatter to clean up but the runs across the top I’m happy with.
81221
81223



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[PeeBee]

Looks fine, good job - I would not have been able to wait either!

[mudski]

Thanks. It was killing having to wait for ARB to fire up the old machine to make the bumpers.


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[Winnie]

Nice neat job mate, well done.

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[mudski]

the bar is off to the sandblaster and powdercoaters as we speak. Hopefully have it tomorrow or early next week!
8125381254

I replaced the light bar and spottie switches with the new winch switches and got these fancy Narva push button switches, which are smaller, for the other side (RHS) of the dash cowling. As in the GU the area on the RHS of the cowling you cannot fit the usual Carling style rocker switches. God I hope I've done the pre wiring right at the switches...
81255

[Ben-e-boy]

t God I hope I've done the pre wiring right at the switches...


Just bench test it before it all goes together. Use the indicator lamps from the bullbar or something like that for a test load.

[mudski]

Got the bar back from the sand blasters and powder coaters yesterday. Getting there81286
81287
Came up good except for where I did my hole patch up work. It’s quite obvious, but it looks a heap better now. So I’m not too concerned. Yet.
I also had all the special washers, and one of the adjuster stops zinc plated. The other stop would not come out so it stayed in the bar.
81289



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[mudski]

I have the viscous hub apart with radiator out too. Took 4ml of oil out of the hub as it’s constantly locked on. Hopefully this will be enough to let it not be on all the time.
This is what they look like inside them....
81288


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[PeeBee]

Mark, how do you fill the hub, as its split or through a port of some description? How exactly is the shearing action achieved in the coupling and do you know if the liquid acts like some sort of balancer on the front of the water pump? Interested to understand how the fluid flows around inside the unit. BB can up really good I think also, well done.

[mudski]

Mark, how do you fill the hub, as its split or through a port of some description? How exactly is the shearing action achieved in the coupling and do you know if the liquid acts like some sort of balancer on the front of the water pump? Interested to understand how the fluid flows around inside the unit. BB can up really good I think also, well done.

To fill the hub, there is four bolts holding the two halves together. Remove the bolts then let the hub sit with the mounting flange facing upward and let it sit for a while to let the oil go into the other half of the hub, split the hub in half and that pictured above is exactly how you see it wen first opened. Except without the blue silastic everywhere, This hub has been opened many times.
So how the hub works is....Watch this actually. Its really well explained...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwM4OqsLek4

[PeeBee]

Thanks mark, bit clearer than the other couple of youtube clips I watched. Its not dissimilar to a drive fluid coupling I have used - unsure why I thought it was.

[mudski]

So not happy with how the current Redarc water temp sensor was fitting by the mechanic years ago I have decided to change it. The way it was, the probe wasn’t even in the stat housing as the adapter was too long.
81347
81350

Upon remove the stat housing cover and sticking my finger in there I couldn’t even feel the probe. At all. So I was wondering how accurate my water temps actually are. Whether the readings were more so residual temps from the block heating up rather than actual water.

So I put the sensor in the lid where the low water sensor was and drilled and tapped a new spot next to it for the low water sensor. Now to find something to plug up the hole where the temp sensor was...
81348
81349
It will be interesting to see if this makes any difference

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[jay see]

So not happy with how the current Redarc water temp sensor was fitting by the mechanic years ago I have decided to change it. The way it was, the probe wasn’t even in the stat housing as the adapter was too long.
81347
81350

Upon remove the stat housing cover and sticking my finger in there I couldn’t even feel the probe. At all. So I was wondering how accurate my water temps actually are. Whether the readings were more so residual temps from the block heating up rather than actual water.

So I put the sensor in the lid where the low water sensor was and drilled and tapped a new spot next to it for the low water sensor. Now to find something to plug up the hole where the temp sensor was...
81348
81349
It will be interesting to see if this makes any difference

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIt should make a difference. The probe will be swimming now..

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[Winnie]

Shit mate I reckon you might've just solved the kettle!

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[mudski]

I'm not counting on it but I sure bloody hope it makes a difference for the better.

[PeeBee]

Does the probe 'trigger anything' or just indicate?

[mudski]

Does the probe 'trigger anything' or just indicate?

The sensor I moved to the top housing is for the Redarc water temp gauge. I had to make a new hole for the low water sensor too....

[PeeBee]

OK, so you will indication quicker as to when it is boiling. I was wondering if it used to trigger aux fans for cooling or a hammer that clonks on your head to say, 'slow down'?

[MudRunnerTD]

Why did you choose to go Post Thermostat rather than make it work pre thermostat? I would have either cut down the adapter or the probe case or both to give it length into the pre thermostat position. I have actually removed the factory one completely and have my redarc prob there but no longer have a working factory gauge which was junk anyway.

[mudski]

Why did you choose to go Post Thermostat rather than make it work pre thermostat? I would have either cut down the adapter or the probe case or both to give it length into the pre thermostat position. I have actually removed the factory one completely and have my redarc prob there but no longer have a working factory gauge which was junk anyway.

I couldn't cut the adapter down as there is not enough meat on the adapter. Going from M12 to 1/8 npt theres maybe half a mm left to play with if I cut the adapter down. Too risky of the adapter breaking. My first option I thought of was to drill and tap out the existing hole to M14 then I can use a different adaptor which would allow the probe to sit further in, but that mean removing more apart. Being time restricted and Licola getting closer I'm pushing my limits for time now. To be honest I hadn't really though much into the probe being pre or post stat. Alternatively I could put the Redarc sensor where the factor one is and just move the factory one to the top of the housing. I know the factory gauge is junk, but I like to have everything working. Thats my OCD showing there. :)

You think its going to make much of a difference/ matter is the sensor is post stat? Being post I would have thought its a more accurate reading as its reading the temp of the coolant leaving the engine. Which would be actual temp. I could be wrong on that. Probably am, just makes sense to me.

[mudski]

OK, so you will indication quicker as to when it is boiling. I was wondering if it used to trigger aux fans for cooling or a hammer that clonks on your head to say, 'slow down'?

No I have a switch on the dash to turn on the thermo fans if needed.

[Cremulator]

This is the adaptor type I was looking at before I did my install, but the sensor I had was a 1/4" NPT.
https://www.enginemaster.com.au/aeroflow-m12-x-1.5-pipe-reducer-to-female-1-8-npt
I ended up getting a brass M12 x 1.5 to 1/4" NPT adaptor and cutting the male thread length down so that it screwed in flush to the thermostat housing. There were no shorter M12 to 1/4" adaptors that I could find as the thread sizes are quite a similar hole size. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/06/142.jpg

[mudski]

This is the adaptor type I was looking at before I did my install, but the sensor I had was a 1/4" NPT.
https://www.enginemaster.com.au/aeroflow-m12-x-1.5-pipe-reducer-to-female-1-8-npt
I ended up getting a brass M12 x 1.5 to 1/4" NPT adaptor and cutting the male thread length down so that it screwed in flush to the thermostat housing. There were no shorter M12 to 1/4" adaptors that I could find as the thread sizes are quite a similar hole size. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/06/142.jpg

Thats how far out the sensor was sitting on mine. The sensor is no way near the water flow as it was. Even when its flush on the housing the tip of the sensor is barely in. On a side note. Can I buy that plug from you? I need this to plug up my housing.

Edit : And are you coming to Licola? If not. Why?

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah Enzed made me an adapter for about $5. While I waited.

[mudski]

Yeah Enzed made me an adapter for about $5. While I waited.

The issue is Daz. The thread in the lower hsg is M12. The probe is 1/8 npt. To get the probe in far enough where it was. Won’t work with M12 thread. There’s just not enough meat in the adapter to make it work.
Post stat I think, is the best option. It’s actual temp right after the stat. So it’s pretty much real time water temps.
Time will tell anyway.


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[Cremulator]

Thats how far out the sensor was sitting on mine. The sensor is no way near the water flow as it was. Even when its flush on the housing the tip of the sensor is barely in. On a side note. Can I buy that plug from you? I need this to plug up my housing.

Edit : And are you coming to Licola? If not. Why?Sure thing, you can have that old plug. I'll give it to you. I don't throw anything out [emoji2357]
I'd love to come to Licola, the wife isn't so keen so I might try to sneak an overnight in by myself [emoji106]

[mudski]

Sure thing, you can have that old plug. I'll give it to you. I don't throw anything out [emoji2357]
I'd love to come to Licola, the wife isn't so keen so I might try to sneak an overnight in by myself [emoji106]

Thanks. Im pretty sure I have my old plug, somewhere. I just need to sift through the boxes of crap I have. If I can't find it I'll let you know.

It would be great for you to come to Licola. We all have an absolute blast when we are there.

[Cremulator]

Thanks. Im pretty sure I have my old plug, somewhere. I just need to sift through the boxes of crap I have. If I can't find it I'll let you know.

It would be great for you to come to Licola. We all have an absolute blast when we are there.[emoji106][emoji106]

[MudRunnerTD]

Got the bar back from the sand blasters and powder coaters yesterday. Getting there81286
81287
Came up good except for where I did my hole patch up work. It’s quite obvious, but it looks a heap better now. So I’m not too concerned. Yet.
I also had all the special washers, and one of the adjuster stops zinc plated. The other stop would not come out so it stayed in the bar.
81289



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hey mate, how much did it cost for the powder coating of the bullbar? did they snad blast it first? I have a rear Kaymar bar that i am thinking of getting done before selling it, trying to figure out if it will be worth it to make a little more on the sale.

[mudski]

hey mate, how much did it cost for the powder coating of the bullbar? did they snad blast it first? I have a rear Kaymar bar that i am thinking of getting done before selling it, trying to figure out if it will be worth it to make a little more on the sale.

$480 for the sand blasting and powdercoating. I wouldn't bother if your selling it.

[mudski]

Not much getting done with the bar and winch. I have so much else to do as well.
I used the last of my oil filter stock today from when I sold the business.
81362

Chucked in a new fuel filter while I was at it.
81363

Removed the rocker cover as it was leaking a tap. Then decided to sand it back and I will paint it. Yes I am a bit eccentric sometimes. Lol
81365

Then. There’s the interior...
I need to get a new head unit. And run wires through to the engine bay for the winch. Then put the dash back together.
81366

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey mudski Do you not have a Members Ride thread already? dd you want me to rename this thread and move it to the Members ride section for you? seems to have morphed well beyond a simple himount and bar thread. You look busy by the way. Looking good mate.

[mudski]

Hey mudski Do you not have a Members Ride thread already? dd you want me to rename this thread and move it to the Members ride section for you? seems to have morphed well beyond a simple himount and bar thread. You look busy by the way. Looking good mate.

I did Darren but the site I was using to upload the pics shut down, or something happened, can't remember to be honest, and all the pics wouldn't work. I got the shits with it so I just left it. If you can rename it, Mudski's GU Build thread, or something or something like that, and move it that would be great! Thanks Darren.

[MudRunnerTD]

I did Darren but the site I was using to upload the pics shut down, or something happened, can't remember to be honest, and all the pics wouldn't work. I got the shits with it so I just left it. If you can rename it, Mudski's GU Build thread, or something or something like that, and move it that would be great! Thanks Darren.

Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.

[mudski]

Hey mate, i did one better, i found your old thread and have merged them and renamed it for you.

Bloody legend! Cheers mate.


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[mudski]

So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
81447

So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
81448
81449


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[mudski]

Also tested out my wiring for the winch switches. Works as i wanted. Push the winch in button and the light for that goes on and there is power out, push the button out and the light goes one and power out. Yay!
81451

81453

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[Sprock]

Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works 👍🏻

[mudski]

Great stuff mate - let’s hope you coolant pipe idea works [emoji1303]

So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.


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[mudski]

Just about ready to mount the winch and get the bar back on.
81467


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[PeeBee]

So do I. Only doing one as a test. If it fails I will try DOT approved push fit fittings next. But o know the silicone hose will be better for the heat than nylon air hose.


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Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.

[mudski]

Mark, maybe these are similar, but I was supplied a hose and fitting kit for my oil/hydraulic winch lines that are push on, and the only way to get them back off is to cut the hose down the length of the hose barb - they are rated at something like 300degC and they dont leak - have them on the winch, power steering and oil cooler lines. Its a blue rubber hose and the barbs have the flat face for the hose end - excellent system, didn''t believe they would work, but they did. If you have to make a repair to the line at anytime, or shorten the hose, slice it off with a stanley knife and push the hose back on. No hose clamps required.

That pretty much what I need. There is zero room for a hose clamp to go around a barb fitting. I'll speak with Enzed today about them.

[mudski]

Not getting much done but...
Got the winch in the bar.
81490
My concern is the winch will hit the power steering cooler, even though I’ve moved it back as far as I can.
81491
81492



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[mudski]

As this Patrol was a ZD, it has a heat switch on the dash which puts the revs up on the motor when at idle. Now not used for the TD42. I did have a small rocker switch in the dash I was using as a manual override for the thermo fans for when the kettle boils. I’m now using the defunct heat switch for the thermal override function.
81493


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[mudski]

So I have the ARB twin compressor motor feed wires to the AUX battery. I noticed the wires have a lot of the green patina running up the copper.
81541

So this needs to go. Also thinking the compressor motor feed should be from the Cranker battery so it’s getting full voltage when running. As I noticed the voltage drops on the aux battery to 12v and sometimes a little under when I’m using it. Even with the engine running.


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[mudski]

Got all new sway bar link rod ends too as the old ones were flogged out. Just gotta find a way to stop the dirt from getting in...
81542


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[Bloggsy]

Roadsafe do a dust boot that may suit

https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/roadsafe-4wd-extended-swaybar-rubber-boot-to-suit-stb8828et-swaybar-link

[mudski]

Roadsafe do a dust boot that may suit

https://www.4x4andcamping.com.au/products/roadsafe-4wd-extended-swaybar-rubber-boot-to-suit-stb8828et-swaybar-link

Perfect. Thanks! I saw these on Patrol a Parts website with their link kits but not for sale separately. Im sure Quikazz is just an offshoot of Patrol a Part. I'll ring them tomorrow.

[Bloggsy]

These are the GU ones

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Roadsafe-Dust-Boot-Kit-suits-4WD-Patrol-STB-Sway-Bar-Links-12mm-Bolt-STB-GUBOOT-/323858690444

[mudski]

These are the GU ones

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Roadsafe-Dust-Boot-Kit-suits-4WD-Patrol-STB-Sway-Bar-Links-12mm-Bolt-STB-GUBOOT-/323858690444

Dunno how they are different. The GQ ones are the correct boots for both GQ and GU. Those look like tie rod boots to me.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/nissan-patrol-gu-gq-extended-swaybar-link

[Bloggsy]

Yup now you mention it, they definitely look tie rod boots.

[mudski]

Managed to squeeze in five minutes on the Patrol this weekend. Got the rear links done.
81585
A bit sceptical how well these boots will work. I can easily move the boot to expose the ball of the joint. Better than nothing I suppose.
The fronts are a different story. I run a heavier aftermarket sway bar and the bolt size is much bigger.
So I will pretty much destroy the boots as soon as I tighten it all up. As the spacers that are normally used with these joint are not used on the fronts.
Hard to explain why. These boots need the spacers so they don’t get squashed when you tighten the retaining bolt up.


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[mudski]

And also replaced the red tie rod boot and the the drag link boot. Now both sides are done. Sorry @AB. I’ve used my spares.


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[jay see]

Hey Mark, did you get around to installing the winch switches on the bar. You can save me some googling time.[emoji1787]

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[mudski]

Hey Mark, did you get around to installing the winch switches on the bar. You can save me some googling time.[emoji1787]

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Haven't even got the bar on the Patrol yet mate. The winch in mounted in the bar and the bar is sitting on the ground. I'm going fab up a pulley system from my balcony to winch it up, hopefully the balcony holds it, then do a test fit. As I think the power steering cooler will be in the way still.
Once its all mounted in then I'll worry about wiring.

[MB]

G’day Mr Mark,
Hope you and the family are well mates!
This may possibly assist as to what I conjured up for my ute setup.

https://daviescraig.com.au/product/transmission-oil-cooler-17-plate-hydra-677/transmission-oil-cooler-17-plate-hydra-677

The old unfortunately discontinued Millweld bar (-80mm mount) I found zero chance of allowing the OEM power steering split coolers and lines to stay in place without severely rubbing through one day.

I was having issues also with our 12.5” wide tyres overheating the fluid under demanding twists etc..

Thankfully didn’t have to fabricate a single bracket either, simply utilised the OEM cooler brackets in different positions and a bit of bending/tweaking to finally mount the aftermarket cooler behind the High Mount gearbox to the drivers side of radiator.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/195.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/196.jpg

Your flash newly painted ARB bar may not require this mate but my PS fluid appeared to appreciate the modification anyhows [emoji106][emoji106]



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[mudski]

Thankfully didn’t have to fabricate a single bracket either, simply utilised the OEM cooler brackets in different positions and a bit of bending/tweaking to finally mount the aftermarket cooler behind the High Mount gearbox to the drivers side of radiator.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/07/196.jpg


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Thanks Mark. I'm also running two thermo's, the second is right where you have your cooler. I think I might have to get inventive soon. Just gotta get the bar on temporarily first to see where I'm at.

[mudski]

Managed to get the bar on. I have about 5mm before the winch motor hits the cooler. But it’s on.

81610
81611
81612



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[mudski]

Gave the beast a wash too. Something I forgot to do when I first parked it up in the garage. No more dirt falling on me when I’m under it.


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[PeeBee]

Looks good Mark, well done, top effort.

[mudski]

So all is left is...

mount the solenoid, somewhere
wire in the solenoid to the winch motor
cut and mount the grille
Move the ARB twin compressor wiring to the main battery so the compressor gets priority voltage when running.


Then remove the ARB deluxe side steps, weld on some extra bits to make them into rock sliders.

fix and re attach the rear 1/4 guard flare which was ripped off
Get a new double din head unit.

[MB]

Perfecto Mr Mark, looks truly awesome Mate!
Super intrigued about these essential double din head units though, where do we find them bloke, Thailand or Tasmania :-)


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[mudski]

Made up an ally mounting plate for the circuit breaker this arvo. Rather than have it floating around and occasionally arcing out. Then ran a cable from this over to the lhs of the engine bay for the ARB twin compressor to run off.
81673
81674



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[mudski]

Spent the entire day yesterday do lecky stuff. Three hours fault finding as to why my spotties would not work. Turns out the loom plug on the new Narva switch was faulty, one of the female pins in the plug wasn’t right in so not contact was made, so I got the pliers out and pushed the pin right in. Beauty. Plugged it in and nothing still. So I swapped the loom to the light bar switch which was working. Nothing on that now. Huh. I looked inside the switch where the loom plug fits and it has bent the male
Pin where the pin had not gone into the socket right. Now on both switches.
I straighten the pins out but both switches still don’t work. Fuck it! Now I have two dead new switches.
Don’t like my chance of getting warranty on both switches now. We’ll see.


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[mudski]

Finally cut the grille to fit. Looks alright I reckon.
81678
81679


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[Winnie]

Very sleek mate! Looks mint.

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[Rossco]

Looks awesome Markie, pity we can't use em. . . Oh well at least they look good [emoji106] . .

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[MudRunnerTD]

So the TD was built some 4 years ago. The engine builders put on this water rail which draws coolant from the cylinder head and back into the cooling system. This is because the TD’s have coolant flow dead spots and this jigger is supposed to help. Well. It’s been leaking since it was fitted. And it’s been back seven times and it still leaks. The water is fed into the head via a brass nut and olive setup. The coolant will only leak when the motor is cold. So my theory is when the engine gets hot, and it does, very hot sometimes, the brass fittings expand and then when it cools, the nut that holds the olive in tight loosens. Which it does, I have re tightened then on a few occasions.
81447

So. Being fed up with this. I have hopefully found a resolve.
Using silicone coolant hose, from work of course, on barb fittings, and a special heat shrink hose clamp, compliments of work again, on the engine side of the setup. I cannot use any worm drive or other clamp as there is simply zero room once it’s all in.
I’ve only done one port so far as I want to see if it will hold up or not as the job is quite fidly trying to work around the injector spill rail and injector lines.
81448
81449


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Looking great Mark,

Can you tell me about this heat shrink mate? how did you shrink it in position? it has some kind of clamping capacity? I have never seen this.

[jay see]

Top job [emoji122][emoji122]

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[mudski]

Looking great Mark,

Can you tell me about this heat shrink mate? how did you shrink it in position? it has some kind of clamping capacity? I have never seen this.

It's primarily used for the silicone hose pictured. My work is the Australian distributor of the Flexfab branded silicone hose. So its a softer hose than your standard rubber, but much stronger and resistant to heat. Not real cheap stuff too. So the shrink clamp is perfect for silicone hose, you simply run a heat gun over is like you would with electrical heat shrink tubing, and it just shrinks down onto the hose. If used on rubber it won't be able to clamp down hard enough, but on silicone rubber its great. So far, so good, I've ran the motor to temp, let it cool over night and no leaks. Fingers crossed.

[mudski]

Made up a bracket for the solenoid. Nice spot for it.
81681
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[mudski]

Got new switches today to replace the two dead ones. They work as they should. Now to get the dash back together...

Think I might order a new chrome grille too. The one I have is broken in so many places its nearly falling apart, and now I have cut sections out of it, its quite flimsy.

How this.
The conduit in the pic I put there and it runs down into the fire wall through a 1 inch hole so I could add more wires through. The last two spare wires I had in there were the yellow and green wires. Turns out when I was making the dash loom up for the winch in/ out switch I used yellow and green as my power out wires, totally forgetting about the two spare wires I had there. Nice!!!
81685

[Hodge]

Looking great Mark.
So much going on, I gotta catch up on all...

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[mudski]

Ooh pretty blue!
81687


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[mudski]

So I started stuffing around with adding an external switch. Piss farting around trying to find a good discreet spot for the switch. Rummaging through my box of lecky bits and I found this.
81690
Kinda forgot all about it.
So I ditched the switch idea and turned my thoughts to this.
It’s made for VRS winches, having all the correct plugs to fit. Got the side cutters out and lopped them off and grafted it in to the Patrol.
All works as it should.
But now I’ve decided to remake an entire new engine bay loom from the relay box.
As I had modded the OEM relay box to house all the extra relays I was running.
This pic is what it was like. Tons of spare spaces.
81692
Fast foward to the final mod.
81691
81693

But, this mod was done what I had projected HID light with LED angel eyes and blue Devils eyes. These are now gone so I still have the relays connected. So I will remove the relay box and rewire it again so I can use these relays for something else.
A big can of worms I think I have opened up. Rewiring this relay box was a BIG job...
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[MB]

Have heard decent reviews on VRS products Mr Mark Mate!
I please do need to echoe again my thoughts on wireless winch controllers though sorry mate :-(
We nearly took a blokes leg off with a Supercentre controller on our little logging trailer as it kept running on out of control.
Upgraded to a Warn remote / 5 wire adaptation to a 3 and response time became somewhat instant.
Hopefully the VRS can do the same safety for you too brother, as close as a momentary bullbar button taught once of Winnie needed!
FWIW: The cheapo controller we started off with ran through a shipload of batteries hourly working too :-(



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[mudski]

I hear ya mate. Once I find a good spot I will add the switch in. The solenoid is easily accessible.

[MB]

Legend Mate, please do let me know the final best bullbar location too :-)
I’m too lazy these years gone by and prefer letting matfew run some ADHD out of his system uphill usually :-)

https://youtu.be/TKNqMLD5qOM

Pimped up High Mounts used are Awesome Brother, you’ll love IT [emoji106][emoji106]


https://youtu.be/AfAEzIx_0f0

FWIW: Ensure your Airlocker solenoids have clean unfrozen moisture seperated to them or you too are a 2WD :-)


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[PeeBee]

Very neat mark, puts me to shame!!!

I mirror what MB says about the wireless remote. I prefer a fixed cable. We had an instance on site where two wireless remotes arrived on site from different contractors with the same frequency! It was caught during the safety and pre-start so nothing happened, but could have been a disaster - it was on vehicle mounted lifting jibs.

[mudski]

Oh dear...
81703


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[mudski]

Next up is to fix the busted rear flare.
81715

81716

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[mudski]

Then to think about these ARB deluxe steps. I want to make them into a slider of some sort.
These steps are pretty tuff out of the box. Pretty heavy duty shizz.
81717
81718


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[mudski]

Rear flares are off. Geez a lotta crap gets stuck behind these.
81723


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[MB]

Do truly love the look of the ARB Deluxe steps too mate, especially on your ripper beast [emoji106][emoji106]
Honestly depending on your next adventures planned by the sounds of it you may well be betterer off cashing up those beauties and going next level.
Have found putting Mrs MB’s tourer through Tassie adventures that 40NB light gauge steel steps (albeit poorly paddock designed only too) dinged, then heart shaped, then folded etc....
As a minimum you should seek 2.5mm maybe even 3.2mm walls on 40NB if needing to get gnarly and rest on a rock or two [emoji106][emoji106]


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[Plasnart]

Rear flares are off. Geez a lotta crap gets stuck behind these.
81723


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I removed all my flare seals and drilled bigger drain holes in the bottom of mine after seeing how much mud and crap they trapped against the body. Now when it gets a wash the flares get a good flush out too. Why try to seal the unsealable? No difference in aesthetics either so a no brainer for me.

[mudski]

I removed all my flare seals and drilled bigger drain holes in the bottom of mine after seeing how much mud and crap they trapped against the body. Now when it gets a wash the flares get a good flush out too. Why try to seal the unsealable? No difference in aesthetics either so a no brainer for me.

Yeah done that with the front flares but hadn't bothered with the rears. Will be doing this though...

[mudski]

When ISO kicks in. I’m just finding shit to do...
81813
81814
81815
81816
Gave the black trims a light sand and a new coat of jam.
Even remove the door trims and then the outer door handles and cleaned and polished where the handle sits.
81817

Fuck it’s cold in the garage...
And I’ve only removed one side. It took maybe seven hours plus to remove and clean the door and black trims.

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[mudski]

Do truly love the look of the ARB Deluxe steps too mate, especially on your ripper beast [emoji106][emoji106]
Honestly depending on your next adventures planned by the sounds of it you may well be betterer off cashing up those beauties and going next level.
Have found putting Mrs MB’s tourer through Tassie adventures that 40NB light gauge steel steps (albeit poorly paddock designed only too) dinged, then heart shaped, then folded etc....
As a minimum you should seek 2.5mm maybe even 3.2mm walls on 40NB if needing to get gnarly and rest on a rock or two [emoji106][emoji106]


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I will keep these steps mate. They are strong as an ox. They certainly aren’t light duty. And I like the look of them.


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[Rossco]

Looking good Markie, might be time for a wood heater in the shed lol soo good. . .

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[mudski]

Looking good Markie, might be time for a wood heater in the shed lol soo good. . .

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Yeah well when the extension is finished, there will be a new garage next to this one for me, but 10m long. Seriously thinking about putting a wood heater in there. But then again, I want to demolish the old carport, level it out and build a big shed there for me. With a wood heater.

[MB]

I will keep these steps mate. They are strong as an ox. They certainly aren’t light duty. And I like the look of them.


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Maybe just an extra “slider” rail then below and slightly chassis closer than the current step rail are you thinking mate? My little experiences find most lower sill damage has been prevented from upcoming 45 degree angle objects leaning against/around. Tuff chassis’s our old Patrols, somewhat Sliders in their own rights [emoji106][emoji106]


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[MudRunnerTD]

So I started stuffing around with adding an external switch. Piss farting around trying to find a good discreet spot for the switch. Rummaging through my box of lecky bits and I found this.
81690
Kinda forgot all about it.
So I ditched the switch idea and turned my thoughts to this.
It’s made for VRS winches, having all the correct plugs to fit. Got the side cutters out and lopped them off and grafted it in to the Patrol.
All works as it should.
But now I’ve decided to remake an entire new engine bay loom from the relay box.
As I had modded the OEM relay box to house all the extra relays I was running.
This pic is what it was like. Tons of spare spaces.
81692
Fast foward to the final mod.
81691
81693

But, this mod was done what I had projected HID light with LED angel eyes and blue Devils eyes. These are now gone so I still have the relays connected. So I will remove the relay box and rewire it again so I can use these relays for something else.
A big can of worms I think I have opened up. Rewiring this relay box was a BIG job...
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clearly your a Hack mate.... :p

[mudski]

clearly your a Hack mate.... :p

Thanks Darren....

So I removed the rhs strips and plastic guards. Gave the door strips a sand and paint and new flare rubbers fitted. Also had to re align the rear bar as it was slightly tilted back and the ends of the bar were resting against the rear flares. (Tilted backward)
All fixed.

81852
81853


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[mudski]

The beast!
81860
81861
81862


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[MB]

Truly do appreciate your truck Mark Mate!
Having had the pleasure of a quick chauffeured run in it once was amazed at its better than showroom feel on our woeful council corrugations up here.
Full credit to you bloke for always keeping atop of even the slightest rattle, she’s a beaut of old better than new [emoji106][emoji106]




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[mudski]

Thanks Mark.
I’m certainly picky at having things working as they should, if not better.
I also drilled out some drain holes for the front guards.
81863
Also all flares except for the front left and left rear door were removed and had new seals fitted. The rear 1/4 flares have taken a few hits and the seals would fit exactly right. This annoyed the shot outta me but I ain’t forking out the coin for new flares do I just did the best I could.



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[mudski]

I also fitted up some 5mm thick white foam seal around the rear barn door frames.
As I have had this constant issue of exhaust fumes getting in the cab. Even with new door seals I could feel air escaping out of the rear door when the A/c is on full so I can only assume the exhaust fumes in entering via the rear barn door.
Hard to see in the pics but the new seals run the perimeter of the frame where the door seals meet.
81864

81866


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[PeeBee]

Looks great Mark, hats off to ya!

[MB]

The rear 1/4 flares have taken a few hits and the seals would fit exactly right. This annoyed the shot outta me but I ain’t forking out the coin for new flares do I just did the best I could.
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Totally agreed mate, disgusting Mr Nissan’s OEM price for them plastic foot long bits!
Pretty sure we paid $200+ when Mrs MB was checking her Faceache whilst turning right through a gate clipping it off, 3.6m gate was only $136 :-)



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[10G]

someone's knicked you aerial and winch rope.

looks great comrade.

[mudski]

someone's knicked you aerial and winch rope.

looks great comrade.

Aerial is off because the GU is getting garage love, and no rope because the winch is not wired in yet. Waiting for stage 4 lockdown to end so matfew can wave his wiring magic.

[mudski]

So. It of a setback. Not what I really wanted or need to be doing right now.
The Patrol for some time has alway used a bit of oil when on long trips and especially when towing. Tried to ignore it and was telling myself it’s me just not checking the levels properly. But the last oil change I dumped a mere 8litres of oil.
The inter cooler always has a fairly consistent oily film in it. But the intake side of the turbo is bone dry.
My original thoughts was the motor, but after seeing the intake dry the turbo must be shot in some way.
So I removed the intake pipe and had a feel of the impeller.
Assuming there is supposed to be no play in it. Mine has. Feck!

So.
Any tips on removing a Garret low mount Turbo? Never done this before. Just start pulling bits off I suppose....


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[Rossco]

Bugger mate that sux. Yeah mine uses a little and not sure if turbo is letting a bit through or a little from engine, anyhow have discounted it and don't worry too much lol. . Yeah fairly straight forward to get the turbo off, the flange nuts on the manifold will be your biggest hurdle can be an absolute prick to get to and most likely will need to make custom spanner from an old ringy to get in there. .

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[jay see]

Sorry mate can only suggest the way it comes off is the way it goes on. I know not much help. Have a search around the Goggle machine, might find some tips.

Going to replace it or going different brand/size?

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[Rossco]

Is it a ball bearing or bush turbo? Bush will have a little play as standard.

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[mudski]

Is it a ball bearing or bush turbo? Bush will have a little play as standard.

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Ball bearing turbo...


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[mudski]

Sorry mate can only suggest the way it comes off is the way it goes on. I know not much help. Have a search around the Goggle machine, might find some tips.

Going to replace it or going different brand/size?

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I didn’t put it in so....

Not sure what to do here. See if I can repair it first. I don’t like the idea of spending big $$ on a new turbo. If I did though. I will go a smaller turbo I think. And something that can just be bolted in replace of what’s there. I cannot be arsed mucking around.


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[0-TJ-0]

Definitely not burning oil somewhere else mate? I would have thought the oil would collect quite significantly in the intercooler ect if it was using a noticeable amount of oil. As in, I would expect oil to be running out, not just residual build up. You're talking a couple of litres missing over a service period aren't you? Should be pooling in the pipes everywhere. If it was being pushed past the exhaust side then you should be noticing it burning/blue smoke.

Tried running it with the intercooler side hose off the turbo to see how much oil is being spat out? Again, I'd expect it to be significant if this is your issue. The one I recently swapped off the patrol had quite a bit of play and was quite oily but I never noticed it 'using' oil.

Not saying your wrong, or it's not at least contributing but most used turbos (at least from my experience) have a bit of play in them without significant issues.

I've experience with just the one turbo leaking oil and it leaked a lot, shit everywhere. There was no doubt.

Dunno mate. Just spit balling.

[mudski]

I had a compression test done last year when my first concerns about it came to head, and was all good. The only smoke from the exhaust is soot. No white or grey smoke at all. One of my customers is a Garret dealer and I spoke to him a while back and he seems to think it the turbo.

Most of the driving this Patrol does its towing, and I have notice this is when I find the intercooler see’s a lot of oil.

I am going to ring my customer tomorrow and have another chat with them anyway.

So I’ve gotten as far as everything is unbolted from the turbo, just the four nuts that hold the turbo onto the manifold.
These bastards won’t budge.
Am I better off removing the manifold with the turbo on it?

If I can...

There ain’t a lot of room there.


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[Rossco]

Give it a good soak at least overnight hopefully will do the trick. Can't remember the name of the place but when AB had dramas with his turbo they had the facility to do full bench test with everything hooked up. They're in Baysie from memory night be worth getting them to have a look. . Has it done it from new?

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[0-TJ-0]

I had a compression test done last year when my first concerns about it came to head, and was all good. The only smoke from the exhaust is soot. No white or grey smoke at all. One of my customers is a Garret dealer and I spoke to him a while back and he seems to think it the turbo.

Most of the driving this Patrol does its towing, and I have notice this is when I find the intercooler see’s a lot of oil.

I am going to ring my customer tomorrow and have another chat with them anyway.

So I’ve gotten as far as everything is unbolted from the turbo, just the four nuts that hold the turbo onto the manifold.
These bastards won’t budge.
Am I better off removing the manifold with the turbo on it?

If I can...

There ain’t a lot of room there.


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Well, turbo is probably the easier of all the possibilities to fix anyway.

Probably less headache to deal with the 4 bolts/studs at the turbo. I'd avoid removing the manifold unless you have too, just a whole bunch more studs to risk breaking. There's a couple painful manifold studs too from memory, one stuck right near the firewall with limited access. Did mine not that long ago.

[0-TJ-0]

Just on that, I'm pretty sure one of the turbo studs on mine took all the thread with it and I ended up just drilling it through and replacing with a bolt. They were stuck tight.

[mudski]

Give it a good soak at least overnight hopefully will do the trick. Can't remember the name of the place but when AB had dramas with his turbo they had the facility to do full bench test with everything hooked up. They're in Baysie from memory night be worth getting them to have a look. . Has it done it from new?

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Thanks. I can't even see one of the nuts holding the turbo on. So stuffed if I can get to it. I'm assuming I can. It hasn't done this from new but its probably been a good three years I reckon when I first noticed this.
I'm going to have a chat with Peter at RM Turbochargers today and try to gauge what I should be doing.

[mudski]

So. After a long chat with RM Turbo's, he doesn't think there's anything wrong with the turbo. With the play in the shaft, he said thats normal, its supposed to, he called the bearing a name to which it draws oil through it for lubrication, which in lamens terms, takes up the bearing free play. Hence why the I can hear the turbo spin down for 30 seconds after I turn the motor off.
Also mentioned, the amount of oil I used, the turbo wouldn't go through that much, He said I would really know if it was, there be oil everywhere.

So. Not sure what to do here. Leave it and just drive it or look into it further.

Atleast I don't need to remove the turbo now. Which is one good thing. Good time to fix the little exhaust leak coming from the dump pipe now its off...

[Rossco]

Yeah not too surprised really I wouldn't worry about a little bit of play. My motor is similar uses a little bit of oil, remember the engine builder asking if I was too worried about blow by as is better to have ring gap on the larger end of the scale as opposeded to tighter as this can result in fubar engine so this may be the case with either either or both? I know it's not ideal but as long as it's not using crazy amount, blowing smoke or leaking just drive it I reckon. Could ask JPC, is funny that it hasn't done it from new but . .?

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[mudski]

Yeah not too surprised really I wouldn't worry about a little bit of play. My motor is similar uses a little bit of oil, remember the engine builder asking if I was too worried about blow by as is better to have ring gap on the larger end of the scale as opposeded to tighter as this can result in fubar engine so this may be the case with either either or both? I know it's not ideal but as long as it's not using crazy amount, blowing smoke or leaking just drive it I reckon. Could ask JPC, is funny that it hasn't done it from new but . .?

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Yeah doesn't blow any smoke apart from the black stuff. I could have done it from new Rossco, but I've only noticed it in the last three or so years. My old place, from about three years ago, there was no where level to check the oil, even the garage floor was on a slope. So fluid measuring was pretty much a guesstimate.
I'll speak with JPC when they re open and get him to go over the engine again. Thanks.

[Bidja]

Mark maybe of interest (worn or crack valve seals):


Oil Consumption
Bad valve seals will cause excessive oil consumption. In an otherwise normal engine with good compression, rings and valve guides, bad seals will cause a loss of oil that can be detected on the oil dipstick. By keeping an accurate record of oil level on the dipstick, a noticeable oil reduction due to the oil being burned along with the fuel will be discovered. Bad seals will be confirmed if no oil leaks can be found on the engine to account for the loss.

Excessive Smoke
If the valve seals have deteriorated enough, the blue-white exhaust smoke will last longer after start-up and acceleration. Yet the smoke will eventually disappear after long engine operation or during periods of hot weather. Bad valve seals nearly always show an intermittent problem of oil burning, whereas worn piston rings and valve guides will smoke during all times of engine operation and never disappear.

Yes turbo shaft can have a lot of sideway play and does centralise when she spins up.

[Hodge]

Mark.
From distant memory , your rear windows are shaded up. You can't see smoke behind you!
Problem solved.



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[mudski]

Mark maybe of interest (worn or crack valve seals):



Yes turbo shaft can have a lot of sideway play and does centralise when she spins up.

From my limited knowledge, if it were valve stem seals, there would be white smoke on startup due to oil leaking down into the cylinders when the engine is not running. I get nothing.

[mudski]

Mark.
From distant memory , your rear windows are shaded up. You can't see smoke behind you!
Problem solved.



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Haha! Correct. :hpfredgeorge1:

[Mickhead]

So. It of a setback. Not what I really wanted or need to be doing right now.
The Patrol for some time has alway used a bit of oil when on long trips and especially when towing. Tried to ignore it and was telling myself it’s me just not checking the levels properly. But the last oil change I dumped a mere 8litres of oil.
The inter cooler always has a fairly consistent oily film in it. But the intake side of the turbo is bone dry.
My original thoughts was the motor, but after seeing the intake dry the turbo must be shot in some way.
So I removed the intake pipe and had a feel of the impeller.
Assuming there is supposed to be no play in it. Mine has. Feck!

So.
Any tips on removing a Garret low mount Turbo? Never done this before. Just start pulling bits off I suppose....


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Mate that is a REALLY nice patrol :) .You dumped 8 litres, whats the capacity? Somewhere around 9 to 10? How many ks since you last changed it?
If I had no nasty shyt coming out of the exhaust and was losing a litre or 2 between oil changes at 7 to 10 ks i would not stress too much? :)

[Ben-e-boy]

What grade and type of oil do you run? Did JPC add extra clearence?

My TD used to use 2-3L per 5000km when it had penrite oil.
It used 0L per 5000km for the next 6 years using anything but penrite oil.

[mudski]

What grade and type of oil do you run? Did JPC add extra clearence?

My TD used to use 2-3L per 5000km when it had penrite oil.
It used 0L per 5000km for the next 6 years using anything but penrite oil.

Hi Ben, I was hoping you’d pop your head in. I trust things are well up your way in the land of freedom?
As for the oil. I’ve run various brands, valvoline mainly. Have switched to Castrol Rx Super as of late . All oils were CI-4 or better and 15w40.
I’m not sure on the clearance side of things though mate. As Rossco mentioned it could be the ring clearance set when the engine was built??? That stuff is beyond me sorry. I will have a chat with JPC when he reopens about this.


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[mudski]

Mate that is a REALLY nice patrol :) .You dumped 8 litres, whats the capacity? Somewhere around 9 to 10? How many ks since you last changed it?
If I had no nasty shyt coming out of the exhaust and was losing a litre or 2 between oil changes at 7 to 10 ks i would not stress too much? :)

Hi mate. Thank you for the comment. As others know I’ve pumped a lot of time into this thing. Not to mention money. I think I’m just over cautious and worry too much, kinda carried on from owning a ZD30 and not trusting it. Lol
The TD takes 10.5litres and gets changed at every 5k. The only shyt from the exhaust is spot. It does breath a bit heavy through the breather, not really sure what to take on that. But my version of heavy may be actually light. Lol.
I rang a few customers today as well who build truck motors and they didn’t sound too alarmed by it. And also mentioned about the ring gap on the bottom ring if the piston, much along the line of what Rossco said. Could be normal and nothing to worry about.
My main concern is the water temps. I took it for a spin two weeks ago, 16c day and gave the TD a bit of a push up this long hill and the temps were at 95c quite fast. Still not bad but if I did this on a 25c day I can imagine the Redarc gauge temp alarm would have been going off.
I’m thinking of removing the high crack pressure injectors and getting them reset to factory. Then getting the pump timing reset also. I honestly don’t understand the point if these high crack injectors. Plenty of TD’s going around running much more power than mine without them.
Atleast I know the injectors are right then, as this temp issue started I reckon when these injectors were fitted.


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[mudski]

Duped post

[Tip12345]

does the exhaust temp go up as well ?

[PeeBee]

Hi mate. Thank you for the comment. As others know I’ve pumped a lot of time into this thing. Not to mention money. I think I’m just over cautious and worry too much, kinda carried on from owning a ZD30 and not trusting it. Lol
The TD takes 10.5litres and gets changed at every 5k. The only shyt from the exhaust is spot. It does breath a bit heavy through the breather, not really sure what to take on that. But my version of heavy may be actually light. Lol.
I rang a few customers today as well who build truck motors and they didn’t sound too alarmed by it. And also mentioned about the ring gap on the bottom ring if the piston, much along the line of what Rossco said. Could be normal and nothing to worry about.
My main concern is the water temps. I took it for a spin two weeks ago, 16c day and gave the TD a bit of a push up this long hill and the temps were at 95c quite fast. Still not bad but if I did this on a 25c day I can imagine the Redarc gauge temp alarm would have been going off.
I’m thinking of removing the high crack pressure injectors and getting them reset to factory. Then getting the pump timing reset also. I honestly don’t understand the point if these high crack injectors. Plenty of TD’s going around running much more power than mine without them.
Atleast I know the injectors are right then, as this temp issue started I reckon when these injectors were fitted.


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mudski, you probably are all over this, but the higher cracking pressure will deliver smaller atomiser droplets that will ignite easier/more rapidly, hence you get high efficiency of burn and more power, which is heat. There is probably some small extra energy required to generate the higher pressure in the pump, so thats more waste heat. Hard to draw the parallels between 'other patrols' when they are not exactly like yours. i think you are doing the right thing by reverting to a known standard and re-assessing for sure. this journey for you have been long expensive and painful for sure, not nice.

[mudski]

does the exhaust temp go up as well ?

It is a little higher than what its usually would be, the EGT's rise quicker too, along with that comes the water temp rise. I used to be able to predict how much the water temps would rise by, just going by the EGT's. Doing plenty of 8hour trips up the coast to NSW towing my camper my eyes would be on the road and also on the EGT gauge and water gauge for the entire trip. I got so use to it I was spot on every time. Now I just know the temps will scoot up high at the sight of a hill.

[mudski]

Changed all the coolant lines this weekend for the water rail from nylon tube to silicone hose. Should be no more leaks.
82062


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[Tip12345]

right o . give us the low down on the extra coolant mod .
is there a series of plugs in the head ? Now this looks like a good idea ..

[mudski]

right o . give us the low down on the extra coolant mod .
is there a series of plugs in the head ? Now this looks like a good idea ..

Its designed to draw coolant from the dead spots in the head where the coolant doesn't flow. If it actually works and how well i don't know. It was done when I got the engine built a few years ago. Its pretty much leaked since, been back to be fixed 6 times and still leaked. I could have used clamps for the barbs at the head as i ended up installing extension pieces, but I had already bough these fandangled heat shrink clamps so I thought the chuck them on. Ports need to be drilled and tapped into the head for this...

[mudski]

right o . give us the low down on the extra coolant mod .
is there a series of plugs in the head ? Now this looks like a good idea ..

Here’s a pic mate with the hose on the front of the rail connected. Just so you have a better understanding of how it works.
82075


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[mudski]

I’m going to remove the injectors this week and get them reset to factory as well.


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