Mudski GU Build Thread

[0-TJ-0]

I’m going to remove the injectors this week and get them reset to factory as well.


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Interested to see if you notice a difference.

[mudski]

Interested to see if you notice a difference.

I bloody hope so. I am at my wits end with this. If this doesn't work my next move will be to disconnect the Redarc gauge. :biggrin:

[Tip12345]

I look at the temperature with my non contact thermometer. down the hole next to the injector . That head mod is a walk n the park to do .

I will wait and see how you get along with it . I am still working on my phantom over heat problem . Still looks like the dash fault . slowly working through the possibilities.....

[mudski]

Squirters are out. I will send them off tomorrow to be reset to factory. God I hope this works...


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[rusty_nail]

Squirters are out. I will send them off tomorrow to be reset to factory. God I hope this works...


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so what are you taking outta your engine?

[mudski]

so what are you taking outta your engine?

The injectors cob. Hopefully I get this dunga back on the road mate in time for our dictator premier to let us out so we can do another camping trip. Before we go back into lockdown again.


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[rusty_nail]

Oh when you said squirters I figured you had found some other thing to pass time in lockdown lol

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[mudski]

Oh when you said squirters I figured you had found some other thing to pass time in lockdown lol

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You dirty bugger!

[mudski]

82082
Gave the front pipe a birthday. Removed the exhaust lag and it was pretty rusted up. Rang Redback to see if I could get a replacement and they don’t make this type of pipe anymore. So I cleaned it up as good as possible, give maybe a gazzilion coats of Exhaust paint then some new lagging.


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[mudski]

Picked up my recoéd injectors afterwork today. The crack pressures were all over the shop, ranging from 105bar to 120bar. Now they are all 110bar. Factory spec is 100bar, plus or minus 10bar. So at worst, if it doesn't make a difference to the cooling, it will run better.
Also been doing some research on the thermostat. It seems the factory Nissan stat's by pass valve is too short, needing about 20c above opening temp before the by pass valve will close the system so all water will flow through the radiator. Instead when the by pass is open, water mainly just flows through the motor, rather than going through the radiator, where it should.
So what was done, from what I have read, is to use a longer stat. I have found a Dayco part number listed, so I will order one tomorrow.
Also during my discussions with the chap who done the injectors, he's not confident what we have done will help, but he did also mention maybe fitting an external oil cooler. Which this has been on my mind to do for quite some time, but never really thought much about it.

Keen to get it back together and see what happens.

[Hodge]

Hopefully the injectors reset will help out. I recall you talking to me about it agess ago.
Also as for the thermostats... MB' thread here might give you some info.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?46028-TD42-All-Variants-Aussie-Water-Thermostats

[mudski]

Hopefully the injectors reset will help out. I recall you talking to me about it agess ago.
Also as for the thermostats... MB' thread here might give you some info.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?46028-TD42-All-Variants-Aussie-Water-Thermostats

Yeah Im looking at the total length of the stat more than the temp ratings. Trying to get the stat by pass to shut earlier to force coolant to flow through the radiator earlier and at a lower coolant temp. I have read some have even welded in spacer plates so the by pass on a OEM stat will shut earlier and had good success. I think using a different stat is easier.

But we'll see what happens with the new squirters first....

[MB]

K.I.S.S theory you are smashing tracks brother [emoji106][emoji106]
Definitely love your mythical busters approach of not doing two or three major changes at once for your own clarity squirters possiblity sharing [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

So I’ve got the squirters in. 47nm torque really feels to light but...
I’ve a got a longer stat to play with and I bought some water wetter. Hear d a lot of good words about this stuff.
What do I have to lose? Really?
82205


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[MB]

Nothing at Brother, Baseline The Pwick [emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

So I got the injectors in. Then stopped. There’s a lot a corrosion in the inside on two of the banjos only the spill tube.
82206
Kinda hard to see in the pic but these two are quite corroded, the rest were squeaky clean. I’m gonna ask the guy who did my injectors tomorrow for some input.


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[mudski]

82207
Here’s the height difference between an OEM stat and the new one. I just need to pull back the lower by pass plate 3-4mm first.


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[Tip12345]

I am hopping this works ...

[PeeBee]

@MB, I wonder if we could buy something like this for the Chev's? mudski, could you supply the part number and the overall height dimension pls so I can check it? Thanks

[mudski]

@MB, I wonder if we could buy something like this for the Chev's? mudski, could you supply the part number and the overall height dimension pls so I can check it? Thanks

DT79A Dayco.
SPECS

Flange diameter: 54mm
Height: 62mm
Flange to base: 40mm
Vent valve: 29mm
Celsius: 82°C
Fahrenheit: 180°F

[PeeBee]

DT79A Dayco.
SPECS

Flange diameter: 54mm
Height: 62mm
Flange to base: 40mm
Vent valve: 29mm
Celsius: 82°C
Fahrenheit: 180°F

Thanks Mark. I just did a quick measure up of the Tridon unit I have that fits the chev - it runs 2 of these, and the actual vent valve is only 14mm dia. Doing the numbers, with two thermostats open, the combined orifice is 308mm2. the TD is 630mm2. Something does not look right. The area i am looking at is the copper plunger to its seat - is that correct? I am currently running the 182 degF units, but have 160DegF units in hand to try some time down the track. If I looked at this by proportion, engine size V orifice, the chev needs something like 975mm2 combined, which equates to an orifice opening of roughly 25mm x 2 thermostats. Is this right ?

[PeeBee]

Spoke with a technical sales guy at dayco today, very helpful, but can not assist with a higher flowrate unit of the dimensions I have for the tridon. I have sent tridon an email and will if they can offer something, but the unit I have is claimed to be their 'hi flo' design - buggered if I can see how it can handle 130GPN thru 2 x 16mm orifices.

[mudski]

Thanks Mark. I just did a quick measure up of the Tridon unit I have that fits the chev - it runs 2 of these, and the actual vent valve is only 14mm dia. Doing the numbers, with two thermostats open, the combined orifice is 308mm2. the TD is 630mm2. Something does not look right. The area i am looking at is the copper plunger to its seat - is that correct? I am currently running the 182 degF units, but have 160DegF units in hand to try some time down the track. If I looked at this by proportion, engine size V orifice, the chev needs something like 975mm2 combined, which equates to an orifice opening of roughly 25mm x 2 thermostats. Is this right ?

Sorry man, what you are talking about has literally flown right over the top of my head. All I know is, the OEM Nissan Stat shuts off flow to the rad for too long, and by the time the old kettle's getting a bit too warm the stat will open the flow too the rad, but too late in the process. This stat is longer, and will force more water flow through the radiator earlier in the boiling process. Theoretically giving the motor a better chance of staying cooler and giving more stable temps. From what I have read and the few I have now spoken too that use this stat swear by it.

I have nothing to lose and a lot to gain.

[PeeBee]

Thanks mark, yes this is a strategy I think I will employ on mine if I cant keep it cool.I am running 88 deg Stats but also have 71 deg STATs in hand. I know the engine will heat the water up, regardless of the STAT opening, simple thermodynamics, but by transferring the water thru the radiator earlier it may take the edge off the spike and run away temps i have seem in low range/high rpm stuff. Still yet to hear from Tridon about a larger orifice unit of the same size as the TT2000 units I have

[Rossco]

Watching with keen interest Markie, looks like some very promising theories there, good luck [emoji106][emoji106] . .

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[matfew]

What fan you running mark?
When I done the partial rebuild on my cooling system I found the front thermostat housing corroded badly. Thanks to our glorious leader having one off his old block with the hole in the side I replaced it with a perfect one.

Also new radiator. Dt79a thermostat with the circlip or might of been 2 under it.

Quickaz fan and on the beech in tassie (first beech and driving I had done in it) was perfect.

But then I followed rosco through a mudhole and clogged up radiator for the next beech run. Just ask Darren how that went lol.


But overall I think the quickaz fan made all the difference. Like the thermostat it's kind of pre-empts the situation as the fan hub never fully releases. It's always drawing some air. Is a bit noisy when on the loud pedal but 100% worth it in my eyes

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[matfew]

Sorry I'm reading this thread backwards haha.

Old man recently bought a 2015 5.0ltr mustang and with some Web research found they have an issue of the oil cooler corroding and mixing water with oil. Bye bye $20k motor. So he found a mob that made a bypass plate and aftermarket oil cooler.

Took him 3 days to install as gotta take while front of car apart to get to the coolant lines. He wanted to remove the lines totally for 1 litres failure point. He's a bit anal like that. Very different to me lmao.



Anyways.... The cooler he got had a thermostat in it. I know the coolers PeeBee and MB run a very efficient cooler but don't have a thermostat. Def need to control the temps not just cool it.

I have thought about it on mine. I have a spare temp sensor for redarc gauge so might monitor it and see if it needs something. I need rego first though....

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[PeeBee]

Hey Matty, interesting info for suure. I recognise the oil temp points you make. Whats a little bit different with the Chev and the finned barrel cooler is that the difference in the 'system is the oil still reaches 90 degC inside the engine. The Chev runs warm for a rang of rrasons, but the trick is the efficiency of the heat transfer. the last thing I need is a swirling mass of lubricant at 120 degC or so and the radiator has to deal with this to some degree as well if you think about it. What I find is the oil quickly gets to temperature, and I strip 40-50 degC off that depending on road speed. At crawl speed that is maybe 20 degC temp difference across the cooler - I have probes on IN and OUT. 90 DegC is a healthy temp from what I understand, and its fluid enough to do its lubrication and not too hot to start fuming or getting close to breaking down. I know MB tried a thermostatic valve with poor results. This set up works really well for me and I use it on the engine, the hydraulic winch and as an aux radiator for the Interchiller as well. What I like about it is the internal fluid contact fins and the multitude of external radiator fins that can be easily cleaned in the field, unlike a standard radiator core as you found out.

[mudski]

What fan you running mark?
When I done the partial rebuild on my cooling system I found the front thermostat housing corroded badly. Thanks to our glorious leader having one off his old block with the hole in the side I replaced it with a perfect one.

Also new radiator. Dt79a thermostat with the circlip or might of been 2 under it.

Quickaz fan and on the beech in tassie (first beech and driving I had done in it) was perfect.

But then I followed rosco through a mudhole and clogged up radiator for the next beech run. Just ask Darren how that went lol.


But overall I think the quickaz fan made all the difference. Like the thermostat it's kind of pre-empts the situation as the fan hub never fully releases. It's always drawing some air. Is a bit noisy when on the loud pedal but 100% worth it in my eyes

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Running the G35 fan mate. It’s pulls some serious air. Especially when the viscous hub is 100% locked. lol. I’ve put one circlip under the DT79a stat.
82221


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[mudski]

Me being me. I like to have things right. So I removed the lower stat housing, drilled and tapped the sensor port out to 1/4 npt so the Redarc sensor would screw right in without the need for an adaptor.
82222


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[jay see]

Me being me. I like to have things right. So I removed the lower stat housing, drilled and tapped the sensor port out to 1/4 npt so the Redarc sensor would screw right in without the need for an adaptor.
82222


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIs that the one that was sitting a fair way up. If so it's in the right place now.

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[mudski]

Is that the one that was sitting a fair way up. If so it's in the right place now.

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Yep.
Original had this adaptor, the probe wasn't even in the housing.
82223

Then decided to move it to the stat housing...

82224

Then, got hold of a larger 1/4 inch npt sensor and decided to put it back in, properly. I'm happy with how it turned out.
Now I have a spare 1/8 npt sensor I will use for oil temp.

[mudski]

I'm thinking I will put an external oil cooler in. Plumb it in from the oil feed line to the turbo. I just need to research on what size cooler and where I'm actually gonna fit it.

[Cremulator]

Out of curiousity (and because I need to do it) how much coolant did you need to drop to remove the thermostat housing?

[mudski]

Out of curiousity (and because I need to do it) how much coolant did you need to drop to remove the thermostat housing?

About 7ltrs come out when I remove the radiator drain plug.


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[mudski]

So it’s all back together. Runs real sweet now. But. Still gets hot. Went from 75c to 85c just cruising up a slight incline, without even pushing it all. But, she runs soo much better. While it was hot I checked to see if the fan was locked. Nup. No resistance. That’s not helping. But I did remove some of the oil from the hub as it was locked 100% before.
So instead of splitting the hub again, I think I will just go down the quickaz fan and hub combo. To be honest I’m not even confident this will work but I think I’ve opened this hub soo many times who know it could be blocked up with silicone In one of the galleries, which may stop it from working. Who knows....


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[jay see]

Just thinking out loud...

Mark sometimes you need less not more. Have you considered going back to the genuine hub

Both the thermostat and the coupling work off temperature. If you know what temperature the coupling locks you can match it to the thermostat. Maybe both genuine specs are needed.

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[Winnie]

The upgrade to the Quikazz fan/hub is well worth it. I know you think the G35 fan moves a lot of air but I think you'll change your mind on that once you fire up the pajero fan.

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[mudski]

Just thinking out loud...

Mark sometimes you need less not more. Have you considered going back to the genuine hub

Both the thermostat and the coupling work off temperature. If you know what temperature the coupling locks you can match it to the thermostat. Maybe both genuine specs are needed.

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Yeah thought about it John but they are over $300. For a coupla extra hunge the new fan kit will be more efficient.
But bloody hell she drives a lot better with the injectors done.


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[mudski]

Anyone know the difference between the Road Runner kit and the Quickaz kit? Besides price.


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[MB]

Please don’t think I’m being negative here Mr Mark Mate!
Your 75C <> 85C quick test findings sounds perfectly normal for your newly purchased aftermarket thermostat.
As best as I can recall the Dayco is labelled as 75C ?
All 3 x OEM thermostats (76.5/82/88) I trialled extensively (pot boiling & truck running) all displayed very similar opening & closing characteristics.
At said/labelled temperatures they commence opening ever so slightly.
Within 10C they all complete their contraction to fully open.
(Now it’s your radiators/fan turn to perform)
On the downside/cooling off peddle say downhill neither would fully close until some 5C below their labelled setting.
Relatively if your new Dayco is said 75C you will surely find fluctuations at the least between 70C <>85C and most likely over summer up to 105C if the rest is in order?
I’ll never personally use an OEM 76.5C thermostat ever again in Victoria with at best 20C fluctuations and at worst found 60C fluctuations due to their ever flowing tropical variant jiggle pins completely missing :-(
Please do be careful changing too many things at once as it may cloud your results and find one good thing could override another good thing underway [emoji106][emoji106]



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[mudski]

All good mate. The 75-85c was purely a comparison to how it used to react. Same incline, same revs, same gear same ambient temps, the water temps would never budge.
Drove it yesterday. And it saw 90c on Ironbark rd Yarrambat at 60kph. Pulled over to have a look and the fan was locked. Where I thought it hadn’t. Mustn’t had got it hot enough prior.
I’d hate to see what it would be like if it was actually hot outside.


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[matfew]

I got the quickaz one and he's a good mate of mine. Much easier to install than the others from what I've read. I had no issues at all and even Darren found out how easy it was as I replaced a water pump on the beach in tassie haha

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[mudski]

Righto, bits are off. Rad, fan assembly and water pump. Gonna put a stockie back in.
82237

Now something’s got me rattled. About at the start of the year I put on new belts. All Gates brand, as this is what I sell at work. To my surprise, upon removing the a/c belt, I find a Dayco branded belt on there. Near burnt my hands just touching the devils shit. Lol.
So who put this belt on and why? It’s only been at one workshop this year for a dyno run and pump adjustment. Very strange. Hmm.

Anyhoo, moving forward.
Got the Quikaz setup coming hopefully in the coming days, new water pump tomorrow, and I’ll fit some Fleetrunner belts from Gates, super heavy duty belts, Hodge and PeeBee know about. Toughest belts on the market.
Happy days.

Just thinking back on what I’ve done in the last few weeks, yeah she still runs hot but she runs great now and I did notice too the temps dropped quicker too, so I think I’m getting there. Just a fine tune of the things that aren’t right.

Last things I’d like to do is fit the oil temp sensor and an external oil cooler (just coz). But more research is needed for these.

The bloody never ends though. Once I’ve done these things, I’m looking for the next thing. Changing the air box to something better than the Fatz pod box, rear locker, moving the aux battery into the rear and using better battery. Make up a swing away for the lhs of the rear bar where it’s permanently attached to the small barn door and both can be opened at once.

Where does it stop people?! I think ISO life is starting to hit.


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[Hodge]

moving the aux battery into the rear and using better battery.

Might have something for you in this department mate.
Soon.

[MB]

Late night, lost track of top progress apologies Mr Mark, how’d the OEM specy reinstall of injectors go firstly Mate? [emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

Late night, lost track of top progress apologies Mr Mark, how’d the OEM specy reinstall of injectors go firstly Mate? [emoji106][emoji106]


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Haha yeah funny about that. Got them in, all torqued up to spec, put the top mount back on, primed the fuel filter and then cranked it over. Ran rough as guts, Im thinking its just air it will clear itself out, nup, still running like it had a lumpy stage 3 Crow cam in it. Started to smell diesel fuel, looked under the Patrol and saw fuel everywhere on the ground. Upon inspection, I had forgotten to tighten up the injector line that happen to be right under the Intercooler. So off it all came again for a 5 second nip up.

After all that she drives waaaaay better now, a lot less of the black stuff when it give it the berries. Happy days and a good $150 well spent getting them reset, cleaned and tested.

[mudski]

New fan assy is here.
82238

New water pump to replace the high flow jobbie.
82239

And new HD belts.
82240

Time to start putting it all back in.

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[MB]

Personally reckon your good self and the family will soon fall truly back in love with that ripper (best ever seen & thankfully once driven) GU Beaut Wagon Truckster Mr Mark [emoji106][emoji106]
Bottom to Top:
# Them Green belts are the toughest I’ve ever known [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
# That high flow TD42 water pump about to be replaced are advertised I believe by the manufacturer for lower rpm crawling type torque only top needs [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
# Fans, judging by what our nearest and dearest mates in person are finding sounds like a winner too [emoji23][emoji106]


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[jay see]

New fan assy is here.
82238

New water pump to replace the high flow jobbie.
82239

And new HD belts.
82240

Time to start putting it all back in.

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHopefully you get the results your chasing.

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[mudski]

Personally reckon your good self and the family will soon fall truly back in love with that ripper (best ever seen & thankfully once driven) GU Beaut Wagon Truckster Mr Mark [emoji106][emoji106]
Bottom to Top:
# Them Green belts are the toughest I’ve ever known [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
# That high flow TD42 water pump about to be replaced are advertised I believe by the manufacturer for lower rpm crawling type torque only top needs [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
# Fans, judging by what our nearest and dearest mates in person are finding sounds like a winner too [emoji23][emoji106]


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Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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[MB]

You’re on a winning streak now Brother, go full Tilt [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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[mudski]

Hopefully you get the results your chasing.

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It’s surely gotta be better than what I’m currently seeing.
It’s funny, we’ll sort of. Talking to the fella who did my injectors today about all the things I’ve done and doing and he’s like, I’ve got a 180rwkw TD and mine doesn’t have any mods and never gets hot, you don’t need to do anything...
I then say to him, you’ve never had cooling issues yourself on your own TD, that just won’t go away, so you automatically think all this is unnecessary. You yourself know the motor in your Patrol,and how the cooling system reacts to anything. So when it changes you know somethings up. This is where I am at.
Good learning curve though. I can remove the radiator and engine fan assy with my eyes shut now I’ve done it that many times. Haha.

Just looking forward John to getting away again mate with you and the others for a smashing weekend away in the bush.


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[PeeBee]

Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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Mark, I have a started a bit of a deep dive into this with my barge and the general impression is that its going to add more frustration to my life. The flow rates of pumps and radiator core sizes, thermostats have all gone thru tens of thousands of hours at the manufacturers prior to release, Unfortunately they dont take into account what the recreational enthusiast can do with their product, and there in lies one issue - the end user is probably operating the vehicle beyond their design team brief. For this Chev conversion there is no science behind any of the supplied solution by the conversion agents as the parent vehicles these engines normally reside in have much larger radiator cores compared to the little GQ. I know this is technically different for your 4.2 'kettle', just saying.

The second issue I see in particular with the water flowrate, thermostat and radiator core design again leaves me with the feeling i am going to chase shadows. For the 4.2 TD, we would all hope the design engineers have sorted out the heat transfer 'planes' from block to water gallery' and the radiator core to radiator area, coupled with the pump flowrate and coupled with fan design. As mentioned firstly, there is going to be a relatively small area of the nomagraph where the engine will run just beautifully, and a lot of it is controlled by the $2 spring loaded plunger in the t/s housing. If the water moves too slowly it will boil in the block, generating air pockets which are insulation zones. If it moves too fast, as you correctly say, there is insufficient time for the heat to be shed across the radiator boundary.
I have spoken at length with the engineer at Dayco about options and its limited to the flange diameter and depth avail in the thermostat housing, with the high flow t/s being designed to open as wide as the assy structural integrity will allow. I am also in discussions with a design engineer at Tridon, and still waiting for the simplest answer to the question - "what is the tridon TT2000-160 T/s rated at flow wise, GPM/LPM?" - nothing heard - except the answer I have back from them is this is the only t/s that will fit the housing I have, and even with two t/s's flow seems insufficient. What I want to confirm is the flow rate limitation of the t/s before taking the next move. ie, can two TT2000's allow 130GPM of flow? - this is the volumetric capacity of the pump, however I don't know at what revs - which is another rabbit hole. There is a 'sweet spot' spoken about in a few articles i have read, however the operating parameters and variables really put this info into the test lab domain from what I think.

I guess we will collectively scratch around and might get lucky with a solution, but for me its going to really be left to me to control the loud pedal under the range of terrains and driving demands i think. Best of luck to all moving forward!!

[MB]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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[PeeBee]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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Yeah, time will tell. I am still of the opinion that the 160 TS is fine as the engine is going to get to temperature and run hot anyway, and the 160 just gets a bit ahead of the game. I have done about as much as i can on mine to reduce temps with water sprays, water injection, interchiller, alum radiator, full radiator exposure to air, big water pump, duramax fan, 2500cfm electric and big mouth bonnet scoop for the slow stuff. The last question in my mind is the choke point of the T/S. Will let you know of course if I make any headway.

[mudski]

I guess we will collectively scratch around and might get lucky with a solution, but for me its going to really be left to me to control the loud pedal under the range of terrains and driving demands i think. Best of luck to all moving forward!!

More than likely for the both of us Phil. Good learning experience too while we are at it though.

On a side note. I am wondering if I may have silicate gel build up in the cooling system possibly blocking galleries, due the to the engine coolant being changed maybe 8-10 time in the last few years due to the this stupid leaking water rail. Once everything is back on I will attempt to open the water port on the side of the block to flush it drain the block out, and then use some Fleetguard Restore cleaner to remove any gel build up. If there is any. I couldn't see any when I dropped the coolant from the radiator into a bucket though, it was like new the coolant. Surely if there was gel build up I would see it in the radiator aswell....

[mudski]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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Our Patrol lives would be boring if we weren't doing all these mods and chasing gremlins all the time right? Right?....

[Tip12345]

Yes I am a bit over mine . I am still hoping mine is just the dash gauge .
Viscus fan will get done this weekend . Have a new waterpump. in stock .
Just am not happy trying to workout what to expect . If I pull up to take a phone call. the gauge goes mad up to full noise !!!
I then get under the bonnet and shoot some temperatures its all under 90C . bottom of the radiator is barely warm .

[MudRunnerTD]

Yes I am a bit over mine . I am still hoping mine is just the dash gauge .
Viscus fan will get done this weekend . Have a new waterpump. in stock .
Just am not happy trying to workout what to expect . If I pull up to take a phone call. the gauge goes mad up to full noise !!!
I then get under the bonnet and shoot some temperatures its all under 90C . bottom of the radiator is barely warm .

That is exactly what mine was doing. was killing me. I swapped out the Senders twice and determined it to be in the loom and have simply decommissioned it in favour of a digital Redarc gauge with the sender in the factory location. t would be nice to maintain function of the factory gauge but i was not prepared to invest in hours of Auto Elect time to chase a loom fault. f you find your problem please post the results and it might inspire me to go looking for mine.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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Hey Mark,

I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough, Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

To suggest that the Hiflow pump wont let the water sit in the radiator long enough defies basic physics. When the Door is closed (Thermostat)the cyclone stays Outside and the air inside your house remains calm... you open your front door and your back door and you will get knocked over, Close the bloody door and it is over.

Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.

[mudski]

Hey Mark,

I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.

I hear what your saying Darren loud and clear mate. I don't really read much on the FB pages, most comments are to just send it bro, and from half wit kids. Theres so many "theories" floating around, and I've just about finished with trying them all. So time will tell. Yes I have the JPC pump, so if I see changes for the better in what I have done, I will leave it alone. If not. Well, I'll think about that if and when I get to it.

[mudski]

Pretty!
82241


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[mudski]

Fan fits on pretty snug. About 30mm bigger in diameter than the G35 fan too. Quikazz have done a pretty good job of it. Keen to see the results.
82242

Gonna attempt to remove the plug in the block tomorrow and give the block a good flush. Maybe the plug for the oil temp switch in the block too. We’ll see about that one.

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[Bidja]

Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

[jay see]

Not that it's worth anything, but here's my 2 cents.

My 4wd before I got the trol was a 2.4 TD Toyota surf. Go on have a laugh.

These little engines are known for overheating, but the overall size makes these things nibble in the bush.

I went through all the same shit, radiator, clutch fan, block flushed, gauges, at one stage replaced the head as it cracked. That was a $1385 job with me doing the labour. Was still have issues and about 6 months later had it booked in for a dyno. Came back with leaking combustion gases into the cooling system. A small hole or crack in the block. So I ended up with a reco short block. Not long are that I moved it on.

It got to a point where I was driving with one eye on the road and the other on the temp gauge always. Couldn't tow anything, everytime it was under load the temp would climb.

The last straw was driving through the Otways in the middle of winter it was probably 10 degrees outside and drizzling and I had to stop 3/4 the way up a hill because I was overheating.

What I should've done from the start was drop a 1uz v8, 6 bolt mains and quad cams good for around 200kw.

That's why I've got the gas blower, the 3lt stories scared the crap out of me and the 4.2 were out of $$$ range.

I was done with diesels.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/86.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/87.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/88.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/89.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/10/90.jpg

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[mudski]

Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

[Winnie]

Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.Yep told you so mate! Hope it helps to bring your temps under control.

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[PeeBee]

Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good

The rule of thumb I was told was 2/3 of the fan blade inside the cowl and 1/3 outside the cowl. I don't understand this however as the ducting handbooks i have used for the past 40 odd years have the fan efficiency best with the blades totally enclosed inside the tube of the ducting. On that basis i extended the cowling on my fan cowl when the vehicle was vee belt drive and n/a, by simply buying a strip of 2mm x 50 flat bar and tec screwing it onto the existing in places to hold it then clamped the ends. To be honest, didn't make any noticeable difference, still ran hot at high revs low speed 4wd stuff, so on that basis I have not done the mod to the new setup as yet. Word of warning though, the fan blades do flatten out at speed and the swept diameter does increase a bit - on mine the fan grew 10mm on the diameter, and i know this because the ears of the plastic blade were chewed off by the small projection of the tec screw. I had 25mm clearance from staic fan blade to housing. The new setup is close than this, so if i do the cowl extension i will be mounting it differently.

[MB]

Whatever you do from here on in Mr Mark Mate!
Be sure to not completely remove your fully open thermostat as it will create a super “Hi-Flow” affect hindering your radiator OEM designed/allowed cool down time within [emoji23]
Will guaranteed boil up hills under load and damagingly cool down hills due to too much radiator flow [emoji23][emoji23]


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[Bidja]

Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

Good that you have observed some improvement Mark.

In line with what PeeBee stated, checked my CRD fan blades_ would be lucky to covered 50% by the cowl skirt and radial tip clearance is nom 25mm (different eng mount and other flex characteristics but just reference info).

Guess U can only give a deeper cowl a go might even quiet it down a bit.

Mentioned it as in early 80's, I put a 4 cyl B series diesel in my FJ45 swb (two less cylinders than the original 2F petrol)_cowl extension made up using galvanized sheet/metal pop riveted in place, did not have a nutsert tool then.

So now, with the noise from the fan and the resonance from the CC cooler she must be buzzing with noise now mate.

[0-TJ-0]

I've got the same fan along with the thermostat he sells too. Generally hovers between 85 and 90 deg and you can hear the fan come in and out occasionally. Haven't towed with it yet though.

[Hodge]

Nice fans Mark. A good mate of mine organized a set of them for me :)

[mudski]

Patrol’s out.
82249

Roof racks in. Needs some serious loving.
82250

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[Hodge]

Sorry I meant nice belts lol.

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[mudski]

Sorry I meant nice belts lol.

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I thought that’s what you were talking about.


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[mudski]

Giving the old ally rack a second lease on life. Old love to replace it but I can’t justify the dollars on a new one.
82251


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[mudski]

Solar pane back on and spade bracket.
82254

Awnings will go back on later, and the light bar is fubar. Copped a hit from a stone or something. Might have to go visit Paul from LED Light Co for a new one at sometime.


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[mudski]

Side awning I found was falling apart. Three rivets had broken away from the back ally support.
82255
82256

Drilled them out and right through the support and bolted it back together.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk82258
82259

[mudski]

The rear awning bag is a bit worse for wear. So I sprayed it with some water proofing spray in the hope it will help some how.
82260


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[Tip12345]

Well that makes me feel better . I am not going mad

[mudski]

Well that makes me feel better . I am not going mad

Eh?..........

[Tip12345]

someone else has the problem with there 4.2 gauge problems and something not working .

[mudski]

someone else has the problem with there 4.2 gauge problems and something not working .

Yep, my gauge is faulty. :wink: I should have listened to the mechanic when he said to not bother with an aftermarket temp gauge, it will give you endless headaches from watching it too much. He was right...

[mudski]

So after all the cooling system work, Im not sure. I have a road near by, it has a long up hill run, not steep, but goes for maybe a K or so. At 60kph, 14c outside temps, the water temps hit 95c, without even pushing it. Then I go to Rossco's. Pass his place and go down into Yarra Glen. Turn around and wait for a break in the traffic and blasted back up the hills. 4Th gear, outside temps of about 18c, sitting around circa 90kph and the temps rose to 95c again. But slower than I was expecting. I think I will wait for a warm day and hook up the camper and give it a flogging. If the temps hit 95c and stay there (wishful thinking) I'll be happy. Otherwise next thing is to remove the injector pump and get it tested to make sure its doing what its supposed to do.


Other than that, its good to get out in the snotter for a run. Gotta love the whistle of the big GT Garret turbo's. Very distinctive sound. And I've finally fixed the water rail leak after three years and going back to the mechanic seven times. Gotta get something done and right? Do it yourself....

[PeeBee]

So after all the cooling system work, Im not sure. I have a road near by, it has a long up hill run, not steep, but goes for maybe a K or so. At 60kph, 14c outside temps, the water temps hit 95c, without even pushing it. Then I go to Rossco's. Pass his place and go down into Yarra Glen. Turn around and wait for a break in the traffic and blasted back up the hills. 4Th gear, outside temps of about 18c, sitting around circa 90kph and the temps rose to 95c again. But slower than I was expecting. I think I will wait for a warm day and hook up the camper and give it a flogging. If the temps hit 95c and stay there (wishful thinking) I'll be happy. Otherwise next thing is to remove the injector pump and get it tested to make sure its doing what its supposed to do.


Other than that, its good to get out in the snotter for a run. Gotta love the whistle of the big GT Garret turbo's. Very distinctive sound. And I've finally fixed the water rail leak after three years and going back to the mechanic seven times. Gotta get something done and right? Do it yourself....

Did you pick up the cable crimper from AB for your winch? Are you going to need it - I will be across that way soon and will pick it back up if not as can use it now.

[Rossco]

Yeah bloody bugger such a nice rig otherwise. Just disconnect all guages and go for gold . . [emoji6]

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[matfew]

Mine seems to sit around the 95 under work and doesn't get any higher. Even the very limited beech work she got in tassie before I blocked the radiator out didn't go over 95

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[mudski]

Did you pick up the cable crimper from AB for your winch? Are you going to need it - I will be across that way soon and will pick it back up if not as can use it now.

With lockdown mate no I haven't sorry. I do need to get onto this, but life is all of a sudden much busier now with our house reno's due to start very soon. I am madly rushing to get things sorted. I had a new head unit for the Patrol sitting on the passenger floor for the last month or two that I need to put in aswell.


Mine seems to sit around the 95 under work and doesn't get any higher. Even the very limited beech work she got in tassie before I blocked the radiator out didn't go over 95

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Im just hoping this fan setup will keep things cool enough though when it needs too. But I do think there is little difference to this setup to the reoiled OEM hub and Infinity fan now I have used both. Just getting the right amount of oil in the hub is the key to cooling goodness.

We'll see when the weather warms up.

[Tip12345]

well I am still trying to sort out mine . I have ordered a new radiator a brass one with copper fin tubes .
waiting for a kit to check the cooling water for Exhaust gas . so over this process .

[mudski]

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

[PeeBee]

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

Mark, chattering relays are typically earth related I have found, far too many tines. What have you loosened or overlooked retightening perhaps. Also, I am wondering if these are all off a common fuse, being an engine management fuse, had this one also once - just throwing up some further check points - you may have already covered? Bloody annoying this stuff for sure

[mudski]

Phil I have checked all fuses to no avail. Cheers mate.
Swapped out relays also,..

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[Maxhead]

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

I feel for ya mate! Nothing worse than a vehicle which does not behave to expectations

I’ve got a lighter if that helps[emoji12]

Or buy a dmax[emoji123][emoji123]


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[jay see]

I fixed my troubles with my oyta by buying a patrol, you might have to buy a oyta to fix your troubles on your patrol.[emoji1787]

Seriously mate I know how frustrating it is, hope it works out for ya.

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[jack]

So I reset the injectors, again to 145bar crack pressure. But. Now I have this electrical gremlin I can't seem to find. I have no glow plug light on the dash, also no power getting to the glow plugs. When it starts I have no tacho and I hear to what it seems like a relay tapping its head off..

I am ready to burn this thing to the ground...

Have a look here Mark, Yendor solved my issue.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39801-Relay-Chattering-Cycling-Noise&highlight=Relay

[MB]

As electrically unskilled as I ams/are Mr Mark Mate, Phil might be onto something with earth issues somewhere?
Out of honest interest, when converting a 3.0L to 4.2L what is needed in regards the old loomy elecy stuff, is that all just totally disabled/disregarded somehows mate?


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[mudski]

As electrically unskilled as I ams/are Mr Mark Mate, Phil might be onto something with earth issues somewhere?
Out of honest interest, when converting a 3.0L to 4.2L what is needed in regards the old loomy elecy stuff, is that all just totally disabled/disregarded somehows mate?


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Could be an earthing issue, just strange how one day its perfect, then the next its not. Hard to see how an earthing issue would just not, earth. But who knows, I will have a look today at this and a few other things.

As for the loom, I sent it of to an auto sparkie who converted my loom so it was just a plug and pray setup. I've had zero issue with this until now.

[mudski]

I going to retrace my steps. Thinking more about it. I think Phil is onto something.

It just doesn’t sit right. The relay with the chatter checks out good. So it must be something I’ve done prior. I hope.
Last things I did were instal a new head unit, but this was a plug and play instal, no wires had to be cut. I had the intercooler off as I replaced the injectors. And neatened a few things up in the engine bay. I’ll undo what I have done to see if there’s anything suspicious.


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[mudski]

Hmm I don’t think the new fan should be this dirty.
82578


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[mudski]

Well after retracting my steps. I found the issue. Broken earth wire on the engine loom under the intercooler. I must have knocked it at some stage during the injector or intercooler instal or removal.
Lucky I saw it, the broken wire had dropped down and was hiding under the manifold.
Now to remove the new fan assy for a replacement.


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[MB]

Awesome news Mr Mark we’ve got to happy when we find an easy fix like that cheeky little wire [emoji106][emoji106]
I’ll be sure to try “retracting my steps” too, is that just like a Michael J Moonwalk backwards around the vehicle once or twice for good measure?



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[mudski]

Awesome news Mr Mark we’ve got to happy when we find an easy fix like that cheeky little wire [emoji106][emoji106]
I’ll be sure to try “retracting my steps” too, is that just like a Michael J Moonwalk backwards around the vehicle once or twice for good measure?



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Haha yeah. Stopping for a moment, listening to what Phil said I was like, there’s only one earth point under the dash, where could it be?

So I started doing the “moonwalk” and found it.


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[Sprock]

Listening to Phil is enough to make anyone moonwalk around backwards 🤣

[PeeBee]

Listening to Phil is enough to make anyone moonwalk around backwards 🤣

My GOD, some more words of wisdom from the Mountain Giant - how are you Sprocky-doodle!!!

[mudski]

So I spent a good part of the day at Matfew’s place. He was kind enough to assist in the cable making of the winch. This guys needs a medal. Love his work.
82713
82714


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[mudski]

Just to show everyone the size difference in cabling, this next shot my finger is underneath the winch power cable from the TJM OX winch that was removed, which is now used as an auxiliary extension lead. You can see the size of the replacement cable attached to the +ive in the pic. Messive bro!
82715


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[mudski]

Now I’m to doubt myself. I have pre wired the cable cab winch isolator and winch in/out switch. I have the in/out wires there the solenoid under the dash. Does this pic look right? Should the +ive batt wire I have in the pic be a constant power source or only when the ignition is turned on?
82716


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[jay see]

Pretty sure I'm set up with ignition, if it's right or not I have to idea..

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[Hodge]

Am I seeing right ? You're running your winch with that cable on a 70A breaker ?

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[Winnie]

Am I seeing right ? You're running your winch with that cable on a 70A breaker ?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using TapatalkNah you're not. The new winch cables are unprotected. It's the old cable going through the 70A breaker, the large cable would have been used to prevent voltage drop rather than carry a large load.

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[mudski]

Am I seeing right ? You're running your winch with that cable on a 70A breaker ?

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Nah mate. That’s the old winch cable going via the breaker for something else now.


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[Rossco]

I've got mine constant battery which is handy I reckon but both will work. .

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[Winnie]

Nah mate. That’s the old winch cable going via the breaker for something else now.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIs it for the stripper lights?

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[mudski]

Is it for the stripper lights?

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Not really sure what your aiming at there bud with that. Lol. But no it runs over to the aux batt side as I found with the ARB twin compressor wired into the aux battery the compressor was running slower even with engine running, the voltage would drop when running. Wired to the cranker the compressor ran a little faster and the voltage wouldn’t drop as much. Thinking the Ctek dc-dc charger was favouring the aux battery.


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[mudski]

Finally finished the high mount. With many thanks to all who helped. Wound the rope on today. Probably could have gone a longer rope though.
82736


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[jay see]

Looks like you could've gone double, how much is on there.

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[Winnie]

Finally finished the high mount. With many thanks to all who helped. Wound the rope on today. Probably could have gone a longer rope though.
82736


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat's a good amount, I wouldn't go a lot more than that. When you are doing a perfect controlled straight pull maybe but when does that ever happen?
Always underspool the winch drum for off centre winching, the tree is never directly in front and your rope will bunch to one side.

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[mudski]

Looks like you could've gone double, how much is on there.

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35m I got on there....


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[mudski]

That's a good amount, I wouldn't go a lot more than that. When you are doing a perfect controlled straight pull maybe but when does that ever happen?
Always underspool the winch drum for off centre winching, the tree is never directly in front and your rope will bunch to one side.

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Yeah good point. Didn’t think of that. Thanks.


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[Rossco]

Look'n smicko Markie, 35m probably perfect [emoji106] . . Time to sink the bugga and give it a good test [emoji6] . . .

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[mudski]

Well the Patrol is finally out of hibernation in the garage, been there since around May I think. I did a few things in this time. It all started from one thing, a leaking front axle seal. Then it snowballed from there.

Front axle seal repair
rear brake pads
The ARB bar was removed, cut and shut to suit the High Mount Winch EDIT : Then sandblasted and powdercoated
The High mount winch was finally finished and mounts to the bar
Rust repairs (attempted) on the radiator support panel
Water rail leaks finally fixed after being back at the workshop who fitted it seven times... Gotta do something right, gotta do it your self!
All guard flares removed and new rubbers installed
Outer door trim bits removed, repainted and refitted.
dump pipe removed, cleaned, repainted and new heat wrap applied.
Some under dash wiring cleaned up.
Repaired a broken ARB side awning.
Repositioned the light bar and spotties switches to allow for the Winch controller and override switches to take their place.
Roof rack removed, cleaned up and repainted
Drilled and tapped the lower stat housing so the Redarc temp switch fitted properly without the use of an adaptor.
Change out the thermostat from OEM to Tridon high flow to the Dayco DT79A stat and modded the bypass. Ended up going back to the Tridon, seem to get slightly more stable temps with that.
Removed the JPC high Flow water pump and fitted a stockie. Couldn’t see any improvement but cannot be arsed putting the High flow back in.
New Gates Fleetrunner extra heavy duty belts fitted.
Fitted a Quikazz fan kit, failed hub changed out. Results are no better than the Infinity G35 and oiled up OEM hub. Bitta coin wasted on that but we wont tell the missus. Lol.
The injectors were removed and reset to stock crack pressures. Then removed and reset again to what they are supposed to be from the pump builder to match the pump. Saw some improvement here.


I'm sure I did other things aswell. But for now its done.

Thanks to all who gave input and ideas. And who helped out with things that are beyond me.
82738

[rusty_nail]

Is that all you did.... Ya bloody slacker.
Well done mate. I hope to see the beast soon.

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[mudski]

Is that all you did.... Ya bloody slacker.
Well done mate. I hope to see the beast soon.

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Thanks. Might even bring it out for a run to your place tomorrow arvo...

[jay see]

Nice work Mark.
Now get it out and enjoy the bloody thing.

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[Avo]

Well the Patrol is finally out of hibernation in the garage, been there since around May I think. I did a few things in this time. It all started from one thing, a leaking front axle seal. Then it snowballed from there.

Front axle seal repair
rear brake pads
The ARB bar was removed, cut and shut to suit the High Mount Winch
The High mount winch was finally finished and mounts to the bar
Rust repairs (attempted) on the radiator support panel
Water rail leaks finally fixed after being back at the workshop who fitted it seven times... Gotta do something right, gotta do it your self!
All guard flares removed and new rubbers installed
Outer door trim bits removed, repainted and refitted.
dump pipe removed, cleaned, repainted and new heat wrap applied.
Some under dash wiring cleaned up.
Repaired a broken ARB side awning.
Repositioned the light bar and spotties switches to allow for the Winch controller and override switches to take their place.
Roof rack removed, cleaned up and repainted
Drilled and tapped the lower stat housing so the Redarc temp switch fitted properly without the use of an adaptor.
Change out the thermostat from OEM to Tridon high flow to the Dayco DT79A stat and modded the bypass. Ended up going back to the Tridon, seem to get slightly more stable temps with that.
Removed the JPC high Flow water pump and fitted a stockie. Couldn’t see any improvement but cannot be arsed putting the High flow back in.
New Gates Fleetrunner extra heavy duty belts fitted.
Fitted a Quikazz fan kit, failed hub changed out. Results are no better than the Infinity G35 and oiled up OEM hub. Bitta coin wasted on that but we wont tell the missus. Lol.
The injectors were removed and reset to stock crack pressures. Then removed and reset again to what they are supposed to be from the pump builder to match the pump. Saw some improvement here.


I'm sure I did other things aswell. But for now its done.

Thanks to all who gave input and ideas. And who helped out with things that are beyond me.
82738That's a good effort,

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[mudski]

Coolant temp reports.
Flat’ish Highway driving towing a Jayco off-road swan : Ambient temps circa 20c, coolant temps on the flat at 100kph, 85-90c. EGT’s 280c. Hit any type of incline, 95c in an instant. EGT’s circa 320c.
Hills with some incline to them, 4th gear holding 90kph would be 95c, EGT’s 330’ish, slightly steeper in third at around 60kph, I could hold it at 95c if I tried.
Today hitting some hills from Omeo to Bright, 7% incline, ambient temps at circa 35c, temps were 105c 2nd gear 40kph. EGT’s nudging 400c.
I have noticed EGT’s higher than what I would normally see by maybe 60c easily.


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[nissannewby]

Are you still running that garrett? A lot can be said for a decent turbo and fuel pump. I honestly don't believe yours are matched well to your requirements. Any ineffective timing from the system can throw heat load into your cooling system like no tomorrow. And the only way you see it is on the water temp gauge.

You can also try an aftermarket front bash plate/deflector to generate a better differential in the engine bay.

Do you know what timing spec the pump is set at?

[jay see]

Sounds alot like the troubles I was having with the other brand I had. Any time the engine was under load (inclines) the temp would go up. Even if it was raining while driving up the hills in the Otways in winter, yes I had to stop because I was overheating. I was told that I had leaking exhaust gases entering the cooling system. How or where I have no idea, became someone else's problem.

Don't know if that helps or if it opens up another can of worms..

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[Winnie]

The hills mudksi is talking about though are crazy long and steep. Mine got to 110C on the same hill towing a 2T full size caravan.

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[mudski]

Are you still running that garrett? A lot can be said for a decent turbo and fuel pump. I honestly don't believe yours are matched well to your requirements. Any ineffective timing from the system can throw heat load into your cooling system like no tomorrow. And the only way you see it is on the water temp gauge.

You can also try an aftermarket front bash plate/deflector to generate a better differential in the engine bay.

Do you know what timing spec the pump is set at?

Never used to do this though mate. Somethings changed and I can’t put my finger on it. Not sure on the pump timing, I know it should be set at .90 though. I have the plastic deflector mounted which made zero difference, same as the Quikazz fan kit. I spoke with the pump builder and he recommends the turbo I have with his pump and injector build. So I dunno there.
Still goes good and pulls like a freight train. I’m going to take the pump out and have it looked over just for piece of mind. After that if there’s no change, I’ll just drive it.


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[mudski]

The hills mudksi is talking about though are crazy long and steep. Mine got to 110C on the same hill towing a 2T full size caravan.

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Yep. What myself and Winnie have experienced dragging our vans up will test any vehicle. All in all, I’m happy so far with what I have achieved, but I still do think there’s room for improvement. How much improvement is the question....


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[mudski]

Met up with Winnie an Co today, drove into on Bright for a few things. Noticed the oil light was on, dim but on. Check the oil, not even a lick on the dipstick. Even though the Redarc gauge says oil pressure all is good. Hmm. Put some oil in, took about a litre to get half up the stick. Oil light still on. I figure the sender unit for the factory oil light is having a hissy fit from the heat. It was 37c at 10am. Got to 40 today.
I figure I probably would use some oil dragging the Jayco over the VHC, seeing 105c water temps and constantly high revs in 2nd or 3rd just to keep a balance of momentum and coolant temps as low as possible is a hard strain and the oil will probably break down and burn. Dunno. Don’t give a rats right now. I’m on holidays.


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[MB]

Unfortunately experienced very similar excessive highway oil usage on the old GQ TD42 hauling our 2.5T mobile work accommodation out through Bourke headwind regions early 2020 Mudski Mate.
Decided to drop the 4th gear already revs lower and cruised around 80-85kmph (2,200rpm-ish) IIRC and it’s second 1,000km stint oil fill used only about 250mm versus over 1.0L the previous 1,000km.
Must be a hotter oil thing I’m assuming too [emoji51]?


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[mudski]

I think I will send an oil sample off to be checked on next service. This will/ should tell me of a few things. We do this a lot for customers. I might as well do this for myself...


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[mudski]

So having a faulty oil switch creates other issues. My external fuel pump runs of this switch. Using the neg’ on the switch to activate the pump when there’s oil pressure . So since the switch is dead, the pump think the motor is not running. Plus stupid me runs a 70amp breaker for the ARB Twin compressor. Which needs 80amps. Duh! Blew the breaker and it wouldn’t reset. That will teach me for buying cheap Chinese shit. All I could get here in Bright was an 80amp breaker. But better than nothing.
New breaker and the pump still won’t run run. Hmm. I have a relay there where the earth on that is going via the oil switch. By pass the switch and still nothing. Then I find the inline fuse for the pump is cooked, tried to remove that and the hole thing Decintergrates. Nice! Bypass this and still nothing. Might just leave this until I get home.
Then this happens. Maybe on Blue Rag? Not sure.
82803
A fecking rock embedded in the KM2!


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[MB]

Bugger Mark Mate, you’re all back at camp safe & sound now hopefully?
How old are your KM2 rippers now?
About to pinch mine off the dormant shed queen GU for the GQ needs and yours look a bit worrying there. Appears to be a huge split (star picket shaped) on the next set of lugs above your unfortunate hitchhiker rock below too[emoji51]


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[mudski]

Bugger Mark Mate, you’re all back at camp safe & sound now hopefully?
How old are your KM2 rippers now?
About to pinch mine off the dormant shed queen GU for the GQ needs and yours look a bit worrying there. Appears to be a huge split (star picket shaped) on the next set of lugs above your unfortunate hitchhiker rock below too[emoji51]


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Yeah all’s good Mark mate. Went to a workshop in Mt.Beauty and borrowed their trolley jack and put the spare on just in case...
Just gotta get a new oil pressure switch and I hope the external pump comes back to life.


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[Tip12345]

man you need a holiday .. without the truck ! mine is in lots of bits ! fuel pump getting rebuilt its getting a good going over head to be crack tested and new valve seats if it passes muster .
new radiator , water pump etc etc . its becoming the money pit ! oh and pull the tanks out maybe replace all the fuel lines with some stainless steel numbers .. yeswe have some rust looking from where … trashed the fuel pump . new housing etc etc

[mudski]

The plot thickens. So my external pump runs via a relay. The earth on the relay is connected to the factory oil pressure switch so the pump will only run where the oil pressure light goes off.
The power wire from the relay to the pump has an inline fuse. Yesterday I went to see if the fuse was ok and it wasn’t. Upon removing the fuse, blade type, the fuse broke off in the holder. No biggie there’s a shop down the road I’ll go get another.
I noticed whiling driving down to the shop the oil pressure light was off. Hmm.
I replace the fuse assembly, start the car and the light is back on, but only dim as it was first doing. Remove the fuse, it’s off. So I’m not even sure now the oil switch is the culprit. Bloody confusing.

CBF’ed anyway looking at it now, the Patrol still runs, I know I have oil pressure, and oil. I’ll worry about it when I get home.


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[nissannewby]

Sounds like a wire is touching somewhere. Earthing the oil pressure light circuit.

[mudski]

Sounds like a wire is touching somewhere. Earthing the oil pressure light circuit.

Yeah I think it maybe in the relay box where the issues are coming from. I’ll look at it when I get home now as a couple of 79’s just pulled up camp across from us a about six bogans jumped out all loud and proud. I can’t be seen under the bonnet of a Patrol in front of these buffoons. Lol.


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[MB]

Easy as Mark Mate, keep working away under there proudly [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
If they grunt/ask....just tell them you’re diligently safety checking for possible shrapnel damage from following a V8 Landcrab too closely.
Edumacate them Wally’s (with a dead straight face) that their rear tyre spacers to get back aligned on front track on the cheap might have also cracked open too....a bearing or two!
Give it 30mins thereafter....they’ll all be under their own arse ends having a snoop [emoji23]
BTW: If they come back again, ask them how their ‘Sump Dust Extractors’ are going?

EDIT: Whoops, meant their ‘Alternators’ [emoji23]

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[mudski]

Easy as Mark Mate, keep working away under there proudly [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
If they grunt/ask....just tell them you’re diligently safety checking for possible shrapnel damage from following a V8 Landcrab too closely.
Edumacate them Wally’s (with a dead straight face) that their rear tyre spacers to get back aligned on front track on the cheap might have also cracked open too....a bearing or two!
Give it 30mins thereafter....they’ll all be under their own arse ends having a snoop [emoji23]
BTW: If they come back again, ask them how their ‘Sump Dust Extractors’ are going?

EDIT: Whoops, meant their ‘Alternators’ [emoji23]

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All good mate. A few came over and were asking about the high mount wedged in the ARB bar, I just said it was there purely for Landcrab recoveries, to help a fellow out, as I won’t need it. To my surprise they just said “yeah good onya mate” raised their tinnie’s and we chatted on.


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[MB]

Please do be careful, don’t get sucked in Brother Mark Mate!
Keep a good faithful eye on your glass/beer hole too, they’ll try and get you them buggerers [emoji23]


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[mudski]

So I finally got to the bottom of the dim oil pressure switch and no working Carter fuel pump issues.
This...
82827

I stumbled across it hidden in a loom in the engine bay. It supplies ignition power to the relay for the Carter pump. Still had continuity though, not a lot, hence giving me weird readings from the DMM. This is the result of years of adding things in and forgetting how you wired them in. So I spent six hours today re wiring part of the loom that goes from the engine bay and into the dash. Fixing a few other things up on the way.
Happy Chappy now. Working pump and oil light, and also no front end knocks.


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[mudski]

Also have the old GUrl a wash.
82828


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[Winnie]

Nice shed ;)

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[Hodge]

Also have the old GUrl a wash.
82828


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAhhh so that's what you meant by saying you'll build a proper spot for the Patrol during your renos....

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[mudski]

Nice shed ;)

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Well I don't have a shed yet, and I can't be arsed taking the roof rack off to get it in the garage....

[Tip12345]

that's one nice Patrol . all your good work is paying off ..

[mudski]

that's one nice Patrol . all your good work is paying off ..

Yeah thanks. A lot of hard work has been invested. We have a love hate relationship. Theres been a lot of hate. But at this point in time is love. Whilst on our summer trip, yeah she got hot, and bloody hot, I was asking a lot of her. A thing or two broke, but didn't break me. Got home all good and all the broke things are fixed.

She got pushed, and hard in some really hot temps. This old GUrl held her own on this summer break. I was quite happy.

I'd still love a 62 though....

[Tip12345]

great to hear . Awaiting my head .new genuine head then fitted hardened seats. new radiator ,fuel pump injectors water pump etc etc . I am hopping it all plays well together .

[Plasnart]

Also have the old GUrl a wash.
82828


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Is that thing still wet Marko, or have you got it polished up to the max? Lookin good mate.

[Maxhead]

Is that thing still wet Marko, or have you got it polished up to the max? Lookin good mate.

Patrols are not supposed to look this polished up. Gay [emoji12]


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[Plasnart]

Patrols are not supposed to look this polished up. Gay [emoji12]


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Hahaha classic Krisso, but when I saw that pic I went oooh noice! Might have to give mine a good ol' polish too! :D

[Maxhead]

Hahaha classic Krisso, but when I saw that pic I went oooh noice! Might have to give mine a good ol' polish too! :D

Yeah, quietly I did too but GAY[emoji15]


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[mudski]

Is that thing still wet Marko, or have you got it polished up to the max? Lookin good mate.

She’s dry mate. Just had a sponge bath.


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[mudski]

Patrols are not supposed to look this polished up. Gay [emoji12]


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Haha! Says he who owns an Isuzu Gaymax! Lol.


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[Maxhead]

Haha! Says he who owns an Isuzu Gaymax! Lol.


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Yeah, true they are a bit gayish but I turn the key and the fag does what’s its told every time and no complaints...hahahah


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[mudski]

So last year I had this terrible rattle under the Patrol when on rough’ish roads.
Long story short, the bush used in the drop boxes that sits in where the radius arm used to sit had worn and was rattling about. This was on the RHS. So after some phone calls it was apparent that I could not buy this bush alone and had to buy new drop boxes just to get a new bush. FFS right. So I welded the bush in.
Now the RHS is gone. Ugh!
84361
84362
84363

So it looks like I will be welding this bushing in too. Not ideal but what does one do?




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[mudski]

Also @ Cuppa this is a leaking front axle seal.
84364
Thanks to Covid. It’s only
Leaking due to lack of use. So a big job just to replace one seal. Yeah Phark it!


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[nissannewby]

So last year I had this terrible rattle under the Patrol when on rough’ish roads.
Long story short, the bush used in the drop boxes that sits in where the radius arm used to sit had worn and was rattling about. This was on the RHS. So after some phone calls it was apparent that I could not buy this bush alone and had to buy new drop boxes just to get a new bush. FFS right. So I welded the bush in.
Now the RHS is gone. Ugh!
84361
84362
84363

So it looks like I will be welding this bushing in too. Not ideal but what does one do?




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Put some weld in the hole in the chassis then die grind until the push is a tap in fit. Unlikely that bush is worn the hole in the chassis will be.

[mudski]

Put some weld in the hole in the chassis then die grind until the push is a tap in fit. Unlikely that bush is worn the hole in the chassis will be.

That was another thought but I am not the best welder and my only die grinder is a big feck off Milwaukee die grinder. I would struggle to use this and get the hole round enough. But I'll have another look tonight. Another thought was to push some thin metal sheeting into the hole between the bush to take up the space. Or just weld the bush in like the other side. Its not like they are a serviceable item anyway. dunno...

[Rossco]

That was another thought but I am not the best welder and my only die grinder is a big feck off Milwaukee die grinder. I would struggle to use this and get the hole round enough. But I'll have another look tonight. Another thought was to push some thin metal sheeting into the hole between the bush to take up the space. Or just weld the bush in like the other side. Its not like they are a serviceable item anyway. dunno...I've got an air grinder if you want to borrow should fit in fine. . Can always grind most and finish with a file. . Grinding most off anyways so doesn't matter if welds look dogey lol. .

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[mudski]

I've got an air grinder if you want to borrow should fit in fine. . Can always grind most and finish with a file. . Grinding most off anyways so doesn't matter if welds look dogey lol. .

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Thanks mate, I have an air grinder too but my compressor is that small I would burn it out. Lol. I'll reassess tonight. I'll probably go the easy way and just weld the bush in to be honest.

[BillsGU]

You could get the bush built up with spray metal and then turned down to the correct size - and run a matching reamer through the hole to ensure a good fit. Most good machine shops should be able to do this.

[mudski]

You could get the bush built up with spray metal and then turned down to the correct size - and run a matching reamer through the hole to ensure a good fit. Most good machine shops should be able to do this.

That sounds like a lot of work there mate. I like my idea. Haha! Can you tell I can't be bothered? :D

[BillsGU]

That sounds like a lot of work there mate. I like my idea. Haha! Can you tell I can't be bothered? :D

Interesting ..................................

[mudski]

Interesting ..................................

Is it............... :tongue:

[mudski]

Time to change the axle seal, ugh! Not a hard job, just messy.84415
84416
I think I only changed this side maybe 18 months ago. But lack of use due to obvious reasons I think is a killer of seals.


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[MudRunnerTD]

Time to change the axle seal, ugh! Not a hard job, just messy.84415
84416
I think I only changed this side maybe 18 months ago. But lack of use due to obvious reasons I think is a killer of seals.


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Ghee mate that looks pretty badly contaminated. Looks like you Ave had water in there too. Did you dump your diff oil Too? Or just jack up that side? Are you doing both sides?

[MudRunnerTD]

Also have the old GUrl a wash.
82828


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I spent 5 years building a GQ in a shed just like that one! Ah the Old Days! That was really living!

[mudski]

Ghee mate that looks pretty badly contaminated. Looks like you Ave had water in there too. Did you dump your diff oil Too? Or just jack up that side? Are you doing both sides?

Not a drop of water. It hasn't seen any. Lol. Diff oil is spotless too, wheel bearings are perfect and well greased still. I haven't changed the seal yet and I've just jacked up that side.

I have a genuine one but I am going to see if I can get a double lipped seal, if they are still made, and try this. When I was working for a truck spare parts place 15 years ago we used to get these double lipped seals and they worked really well.

[mudski]

I spent 5 years building a GQ in a shed just like that one! Ah the Old Days! That was really living!

Haha you can say that now my friend since you have this nice and big shed with a hoist. :) I spend the better part of a solid day lying under the Patrol repairing a few things that I had neglected to do in the past and my back did not like it one bit.

[mudski]

Fuck it! Looks shit! It was supposed to be centre84495
I knew I should have insisted on measurements. Needs to be across another 130mm. @ Winnie you said you wanted one. Will this suit yours?


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[mudski]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/11/121.jpg
Back in the garage it goes. I gotta figure out this electrical gremlin.
Keys out. If flick the switch for the rear lamp, the light goes on. I then select reverse and the intercooler fan comes on and also the relay for the check engine light starts to buzz.
Start the car and everything is fine.
Also. I turn the ignition on and the same relay will buzz, I start the car and it stops buzzing.

So I don’t even know where to start. Earth point is broken I’m thinking, but not sure where.


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[jay see]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/11/121.jpg
Back in the garage it goes. I gotta figure out this electrical gremlin.
Keys out. If flick the switch for the rear lamp, the light goes on. I then select reverse and the intercooler fan comes on and also the relay for the check engine light starts to buzz.
Start the car and everything is fine.
Also. I turn the ignition on and the same relay will buzz, I start the car and it stops buzzing.

So I don’t even know where to start. Earth point is broken I’m thinking, but not sure where.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[emoji378][emoji378][emoji378]

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[mudnut]

Check for rodent damage in the loom. Little bastards chew though the insulation and mash the wires together. Been gobsmacked at how quickly they cause damage.

[mudski]

[emoji378][emoji378][emoji378]

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Haha! Yeah I feel like doing that sometimes. The amount on time and money I've put into it I couldn't do it though.


Check for rodent damage in the loom. Little bastards chew though the insulation and mash the wires together. Been gobsmacked at how quickly they cause damage.

Bloody hope not!

[mudski]

Hopefully the vid works.
I seriously don't know where to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sADlzmrBM1c

[jay see]

Yep video works, that's about all I can offer sorry mate...

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[matfew]

So dash lights come on when you select reverse with key off? Sounds more like a short behind the dash. The reverse signal comes back through the dash so I'd start there. The aux light you have on the back did that have a accessory feed to it or was it a hard airways on feed

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[mudski]

So dash lights come on when you select reverse with key off?
Only when the aux light switch is switched to on, then I select reverse, the dash lights come on and the intercooler fan will come on. Aux light switch is off, all is good.


Sounds more like a short behind the dash. The reverse signal comes back through the dash so I'd start there. The aux light you have on the back did that have a accessory feed to it or was it a hard airways on feed


The aux light has its own power supply and on a separate relay mounted in the passenger side foot well.

The Intercooler fan's relay is mounted in the OEM relay box in the engine bay.

84642

84643

Along time ago I rewired this entire relay box to house other relays that were strewn all throughout the engine bay. To be honest I'm not sure how long this issue has been here, as one would rarely hit reverse and flick that switch while the car is off. If you get what I mean.

Im thinking its something in that relay box that I've wired incorrectly. But I don't really know. Just guessing. I'll check what I'm capable of doing...

I might even just hand the car over to a local auto elec, this might be beyond me.

Thanks.

[Buster3696]

This may seem silly but how big is the earth in question? If you have 100 amps going in, you must let it back out...
It would act like a dodgy earth but may be too small of an earth.

[tyler06]

:icon_victory:

[mudski]

This may seem silly but how big is the earth in question? If you have 100 amps going in, you must let it back out...
It would act like a dodgy earth but may be too small of an earth.

Each relay is individually earthed so dunno.

[mudski]

Found this on Youtube for the buzzing relay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K94c6v69HBo

It may have been doing this since the new alternator about three years ago?? Haven't noticed it though.

[mudski]

So the buzzing relay issue is sorted. Kinda. I can confirm that its the newísh alternator doing this. Must have been doing it from the start and that I've never really noticed it. How did I know this. Unplugging the alternator and starting the car = no noise.

So back to the issue at hand. I want to go back to the start to check over the wiring connections there.

The way it was supposed to be setup is, the aux light comes on when I select reverse, but I can also remotely switch the aux light on via the Carling switch in the centre console. i just need to double check that what is there is right or wrong, before I start to look elsewhere. MudRunnerTD Pretty sure, many moons ago you assisted with this, sometime, somewhere on this here forum...

[mudski]

Lecky gremlin sorted, finally got the Redarc ambient temp sensors in and working.
Patrol is fueled up and packed. Ready to launch at 4am tomorrow for a much awaited trip to Merimbula. The last two years were thwarted by fires and then border lockouts.
Can’t bloody wait!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/12.jpg


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[Plasnart]

Lecky gremlin sorted, finally got the Redarc ambient temp sensors in and working.
Patrol is fueled up and packed. Ready to launch at 4am tomorrow for a much awaited trip to Merimbula. The last two years were thwarted by fires and then border lockouts.
Can’t bloody wait!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/12.jpg


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Looking spiffy Marko! Have a great trip mate.

[mudski]

Looking spiffy Marko! Have a great trip mate.

Cheers mate. Since 12am today we’ve had 95mm of rain. Last night was epic. In all the 40 odd summers I’ve been here never had I experienced what we got last night.


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[Plasnart]

Cheers mate. Since 12am today we’ve had 95mm of rain. Last night was epic. In all the 40 odd summers I’ve been here never had I experienced what we got last night.


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Hope all's still water tight mate. Nothing worse than finding ya socks are wet.

And ya still in bed! :D

[Maxhead]

Cheers mate. Since 12am today we’ve had 95mm of rain. Last night was epic. In all the 40 odd summers I’ve been here never had I experienced what we got last night.


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Best is yet to come mate, hope you get a few dry days on your holiday mate


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[mudski]

Best is yet to come mate, hope you get a few dry days on your holiday mate


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So do I.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/01/142.jpg

Not looking good for today.


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[mudski]

85151
Looking like a turd on a rock I decided to modify the carrier and make it 140mm longer.
So the fun begins.
85152
After seeking advice from a mate who welds for a living I’m going to give it a crack. Even though he offered to do it for me. How silly am I?

Using 3mm thick steel I was advised to use my arc welder instead of my mig which is only 135amp. I maybe pushing the boundaries on strength with my mig. But he said to run a test weld and see how it fairs first.
I’ll get more done tomorrow night hopefully.

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[Bidja]

G'Day Mark, hope U doing well mate.

Could also weld a strengthening length of 40mm equal x 3mm angle along RHS external bottom corner from swing hub to latch brkt.

[mudski]

G'Day Mark, hope U doing well mate.

Could also weld a strengthening length of 40mm equal x 3mm angle along RHS external bottom corner from swing hub to latch brkt.

Hi mate, I'm doing well thanks. I hope your keeping out of trouble.

Funny you say that John. This was suggested by my welder mate. Which I plan on doing. I just got to get a bit of angle, the piece I have is too big.

[jff45]

Mark, as you have good access inside where you cut off the bearing holder, you could weld a length of flat bar in there then drill holes in both the insert piece and the original RHS and plug weld them with the MIG.
You could even do that on the 3 sides (maybe angle iron for 2 sides) where you have access for plug welding. If you then weld that insert piece in place and flapdisk it all it will look original and much cleaner than external angle iron added on.

[mudski]

Mark, as you have good access inside where you cut off the bearing holder, you could weld a length of flat bar in there then drill holes in both the insert piece and the original RHS and plug weld them with the MIG.
You could even do that on the 3 sides (maybe angle iron for 2 sides) where you have access for plug welding. If you then weld that insert piece in place and flapdisk it all it will look original and much cleaner than external angle iron added on.

Ideas man! I like it. Thanks.

[Bidja]

Hi mate, I'm doing well thanks. I hope your keeping out of trouble.

Funny you say that John. This was suggested by my welder mate. Which I plan on doing. I just got to get a bit of angle, the piece I have is too big.

Yeah ease of alignment and I like to stick it well. Bit of paint look sweet.

Due to arm length increase, guess you have realized that the latch and toggle pin plates will need to be re positioned or the latch hook (preferred) on the on the rear bar its self for latch engagement. Need to take the "moment force" into account (Force x Distance).

[mudski]

Yeah ease of alignment and I like to stick it well. Bit of paint look sweet.

Due to arm length increase, guess you have realized that the latch and toggle pin plates will need to be re positioned or the latch hook (preferred) on the on the rear bar its self for latch engagement. Need to take the "moment force" into account (Force x Distance).

There is no latches on the bar as yet mate. I haven't actually fitted it. I got it ages ago and never put it on. Thought I'd actually do something about it. :)

[Bidja]

There is no latches on the bar as yet mate. I haven't actually fitted it. I got it ages ago and never put it on. Thought I'd actually do something about it. :)

Remember seeing that u were not happy with the carrier and doing the mod sounds a good solution.

[mudski]

So things have stalled. Ugh. My ye’old Bakers drill press that was handed down to me from my dad over ten years ago that was working perfect now working. Well the motor is running but every time the drill got some grip the chuck would just stop. Never done this in its entire life, it’s worked flawlessly for me until now.
Upon closer inspection I find the front pulley it missing the nut that holds it onto the shaft.
It happen to start slipping now!!!
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Where in the hell am I going to find a nut for this?


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[mudski]

Hmm, think I might just weld the pulley on and be done with it. Can't find parts anywhere for this thing.

[mudski]

So this is where I’m up to anyway. I found a piece of angle which is welded to the hub and plug welded (not finished that ). I then found another longer piece of angle which I’ll put opposite to this one and do the same. This is when the drill press start to slip.
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[MB]

I’m FAR from an expert MARK Brother, ‘Duragal’ I believe from tiny iPhoney picture is going to give you a lot of grief 🥲[emoji120]
Call me, I aint no expert but 🥲🥲


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[mudski]

I’m FAR from an expert MARK Brother, ‘Duragal’ I believe from tiny iPhoney picture is going to give you a lot of grief 🥲[emoji120]
Call me, I aint no expert but 🥲🥲


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Why is that Mark?

[MB]

If i am nuffy correct thankyou…Mark….your Mig/Tig/Arc would experience horrible gasses from pre purchased/scored steel Brother [emoji120]
Of course any of us can conjoin any carbon with serious consideration of pre-after treatment suppliers have applied… steel on steel then treat if that makes, my apologies, been sniffing welding atop of pre purchased strip galvanised lengths for too long 🥲


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[MB]

Fark, that made no sense apologies Mark Mate, please do put the hard yards in prepping your steel variants by way of taking them back to basics….coatings be gone for full carbon kinky bondages [emoji23]


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[Cremulator]

Fark, that made no sense apologies....[emoji23]
Quote of the year from MB about MB!

[growler2058]

Fark, that made no sense apologies Mark Mate, please do put the hard yards in prepping your steel variants by way of taking them back to basics….coatings be gone for full carbon kinky bondages [emoji23]


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Kenoath! Glad I'm not the only one. I got vertigo trying to read that hahaha

[mudski]

Fark, that made no sense apologies Mark Mate, please do put the hard yards in prepping your steel variants by way of taking them back to basics….coatings be gone for full carbon kinky bondages [emoji23]


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Ah yeah I was warned about that. I'll be prepping the welded sections for sure.

Just gotta fix my drill press before I continue.

[jff45]

Mark, if you're going to put a 2nd piece of angle iron down inside that extension piece, it might be worth cutting a 5-6mm slot on other side so you can weld it to the hub as well.

[MudRunnerTD]

Your front pulley looks like a taper with a left hand thread nut. Clean both tapers and give it a tap when it's back on and tighten the nut. Do you have the nut? If not it should be relatively easy to find one at a specialist bolt or tool store.

[BillsGU]

The only thing I got out of all that is that MB has been sniffing something. ?????????????

[Tip12345]

just clean up the shaft and pulley 680 locktite I did this years ago still going think its a left hand thread so mine has no nut still goes

[mudski]

Mark, if you're going to put a 2nd piece of angle iron down inside that extension piece, it might be worth cutting a 5-6mm slot on other side so you can weld it to the hub as well.

Yeah the first one is welded to the hub, then I found another piece of angle. I've only spot welded the RHS in, I'll either grind them out and weld the angle in properly or do it your way.

[mudski]

Your front pulley looks like a taper with a left hand thread nut. Clean both tapers and give it a tap when it's back on and tighten the nut. Do you have the nut? If not it should be relatively easy to find one at a specialist bolt or tool store.

Yeah the nut is long gone, had the thing for maybe 15years and the pulley has never slipped too. I rang a few bolt and tool mobs locally and no one is willing to help. I'll just weld it on.

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah the nut is long gone, had the thing for maybe 15years and the pulley has never slipped too. I rang a few bolt and tool mobs locally and no one is willing to help. I'll just weld it on.

Just give both surfaces a clean and a rub with scotchbrite or something like an 800 grit. Then clean. Then place the pull on and give it a couple taps with a rubber mallet. If you have an oversize deep socket plate it over the shaft and hit the pulley on using the socket as a 360d press. I'd be very surprised 8f you couldn't get that left hand thread Nut from an All tools or Sydney tools to be honest mate. Maybe not a shelf item but they'd be able to get it in for you. Go in and flip the lid on one of the floor stock drill presses on display. Evolution has not really arrived yet mate. They will likely be the same.

[MudRunnerTD]

I just had a look at my drill press circa 1995 or so. Mine disent even have nuts mate. Mine has 3 pulley stacks for gearing. The main one on top of the chuck looks like it might have a keyway but the other 2 look like they are on a taper. The main Chuck is likely just a Taper up into the drill head too. They fall out occasionally. Pain in the ass when they do. Give it a tap to get the taper to bite.

[mudski]

Go in and flip the lid on one of the floor stock drill presses on display. Evolution has not really arrived yet mate. They will likely be the same.

I actually did that yesterday at the Total Tool near work. All the nuts on those were smaller, this one has a 25mm thread. Anyhow, I don't have the luxury of time, getting a mere 10 minute lunch break at work is unheard of. So I just welded the pulley on. I've never even lifted the lid on mine in the 10-15 years I've had it, so I doubt it will never be lifted again.

Anyhow. I’ve plug welded the first half. Came up ok for a novice welder. I had my little 135amp welder running at its highest level with max wire speed and things got pretty hot. But it worked out in the end.
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I won’t be doing anymore until next week now as the wife and I are heading down to Wilson’s Prom for the weekend. I need to recharge the batteries by doing sweet FA for a weekend and I can’t do this at home.

[MudRunnerTD]

Looking good mate. And welding will work just as well as a left hand thread. Lol. Does your drill press bot have stage pulley on top to change drill speed ratios?

[Mickhead]

Your front pulley looks like a taper with a left hand thread nut. Clean both tapers and give it a tap when it's back on and tighten the nut. Do you have the nut? If not it should be relatively easy to find one at a specialist bolt or tool store.

It would need to be a farking incredibly good bolt store to pull a nut like that off the shelf…no chance at all .. or get an old school fitter who can use a lathe to make one. Or green loctite the pulley.😂😂

[mudski]

Looking good mate. And welding will work just as well as a left hand thread. Lol. Does your drill press bot have stage pulley on top to change drill speed ratios?

Yeah I does mate.

So I get home from my weekend off and I get stuck into it.85175

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It’s not perfect, I’m a bit heavy handed on the flappy disc so there’s a few imperfections but it’s come up pretty good and is strong as hell…


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[MudRunnerTD]

It would need to be a farking incredibly good bolt store to pull a nut like that off the shelf…no chance at all .. or get an old school fitter who can use a lathe to make one. Or green loctite the pulley.[emoji23][emoji23]Nah not at all mate. Left Hand thread is a pretty common concept. You won't find them in a 25pc unipac but you'd have no trouble finding one.

Not even trying

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/04/5.jpg

It is probably an imperial from that era. But readily available.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/04/6.jpg

I had my own Cabinet Making business with 20 blokes in the 1990s and would not even miss a step finding that nut to be honest.


Just say'n

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[jff45]

Mark, looks original to the untrained eye :)

[mudski]

Mark, looks original to the untrained eye :)

Thanks to you John. A bit more work than running the angle on the outside but it has come up a lot better.


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[Mickhead]

Nah not at all mate. Left Hand thread is a pretty common concept. You won't find them in a 25pc unipac but you'd have no trouble finding one.

Not even trying

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/04/5.jpg

It is probably an imperial from that era. But readily available.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/04/6.jpg

I had my own Cabinet Making business with 20 blokes in the 1990s and would not even miss a step finding that nut to be honest.


Just say'n

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Mate.. I have shitloads of Left hand taps and dies, all in common metric format like M8 x1.25 etc… looking at the nut on the drill press its gotta be at least an inch in diameter with 14 to 16 tpi left hand thread. Find that at the bolt bloke or aliexpress and impress the audience….������

[mudski]

So I managed to get the jerry swing away on today. Bitta mucking around, drilling and tapping holes. Last hole I was on, I was running a 6mm tap through it and I put a little too much sideways pressure on it and snapped the fucker off in the hole. Ugh! No chance of drilling it out so out came a centre punch and heavy mallet and I punched the broken piece out.
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85191

I also put a hole on the carrier so the tap for the water jerry can sit through.
85190



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[mudski]

Then got the Darche 270 awning on. These are big even when packed up.
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[10G]

So I managed to get the jerry swing away on today. Bitta mucking around, drilling and tapping holes. Last hole I was on, I was running a 6mm tap through it and I put a little too much sideways pressure on it and snapped the fucker off in the hole. Ugh! No chance of drilling it out so out came a centre punch and heavy mallet and I punched the broken piece out.
85189
85191

I also put a hole on the carrier so the tap for the water jerry can sit through.
85190



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Looks great bud. What rear bar do you have there?

[mudski]

Looks great bud. What rear bar do you have there?

Milweld bar mate. Good bitta gear!

[Tip12345]

that truck does look good .

[mudski]

that truck does look good .

Thank you mate. A lot of hours have been put into this thing. Although I have been tempted to sell it as of late.

[MB]

Please don’t sell it Mark Mate, by far the most/tightest GU I’ve ever had the pleasure of passenger seating in [emoji123][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
You’ll honestly kick yourself in years to come if sold when a say IFS Wonder Truck SPAZZES out in the middle of Australia [emoji22]


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[jay see]

Please don’t sell it Mark Mate, by far the most/tightest GU I’ve ever had the pleasure of passenger seating in [emoji123][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
You’ll honestly kick yourself in years to come if sold when a say IFS Wonder Truck SPAZZES out in the middle of Australia [emoji22]


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHe's right Mark..

I'm sure like many including myself you have regretted selling something (was it a MQ shorty).
Mine is no where as clean as yours even with the new paint, but I'm not going to sell it, even the clubsport. Once they're gone that's it you will never own one like that again..

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[mudski]

Cheers Mark and John. I do love the old bus but I see and hear a Y62 and I can’t get rid of the stiffy in my pants![emoji38]
However I won’t be selling this old bus unless I get the right opportunity to upgrade. So me and this old GUrl are stuck with each other for the unforeseen future.


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[mudski]

Some pics of the new awning setup.
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[MudRunnerTD]

Nice Mudski. What awning is that mate?

[jff45]

How much do you think it weighs with all that packed in?

[mudski]

Nice Mudski. What awning is that mate?

Darche Eclipse 270. So simple and fast to setup up, and pack away....


How much do you think it weighs with all that packed in?

Pretty sure the specs were 25kg. The brackets that come with it are very heavy duty.

My only gripe with this awning is the mounting hardware. None of it is stainless steel, just zinc plated. So these will rust in no time. I'll be changing these out soon I think.

[jff45]

I meant the whole vehicle with all that camping stuff packed in :)

[mudski]

I meant the whole vehicle with all that camping stuff packed in :)

Haha! Yeah I read that in a rush, then the phone started ringing... I would guess around 3100-3200kg.

[nissannewby]

Darche Eclipse 270. So simple and fast to setup up, and pack away....



Pretty sure the specs were 25kg. The brackets that come with it are very heavy duty.

My only gripe with this awning is the mounting hardware. None of it is stainless steel, just zinc plated. So these will rust in no time. I'll be changing these out soon I think.

Steel will last better in the long run. If you are getting out a lot then leave them steel. Stainless doesn't like to work so even with that bit off weight flexing the brackets on the highway the stainless will slowly work harden and become brittle and then just break. You can alleviate this a little by making them heavy so like 10mm thick or heavier.

[mudski]

Steel will last better in the long run. If you are getting out a lot then leave them steel. Stainless doesn't like to work so even with that bit off weight flexing the brackets on the highway the stainless will slowly work harden and become brittle and then just break. You can alleviate this a little by making them heavy so like 10mm thick or heavier.

Yeah I know stainless is not as strong but having to remove rust marks from the roof with old paint is a pain. Like the roof rack I have now. I just added extra stainless bolts to replace the zinc bolts and have had no issues so far.


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[mudski]

What the procedure for removing the outer windscreen seal? I have water coming down the inside of the windscreen and I want to check it out. I'm hoping its not rust and just the glue is dodgy but I think it will be rust.

[MB]

Know a Nillumbik Bloke - Mobile if you need mudski Brother. Does most shoppies in our region [emoji106][emoji106]


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[Sprock]

Hey buddy those awning pics look to be in familiar surrounds haha, like the others said it’s a weapon- genuine honest tough weapon. You don’t get vehicles like that everyday, the grass isn’t always greener my friend......

[mudski]

Know a Nillumbik Bloke - Mobile if you need mudski Brother. Does most shoppies in our region [emoji106][emoji106]


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Yeah I just want to remove the outer seal first to inspect it. Just not sure if theres a particular way it comes out.


Hey buddy those awning pics look to be in familiar surrounds haha, like the others said it’s a weapon- genuine honest tough weapon. You don’t get vehicles like that everyday, the grass isn’t always greener my friend......

I blew my chance to score a kitted out 62 at an insanely once in a lifetime price. So unless my fortunes change, which they won't, me the the old GUrl are stuck with each other. Which I'm happy to do. Just trying to hide a stiffy when I see and hear a 62 is difficult.