Mudski GU Build Thread

[jay see]

What the procedure for removing the outer windscreen seal? I have water coming down the inside of the windscreen and I want to check it out. I'm hoping its not rust and just the glue is dodgy but I think it will be rust.Spoke to my son he works for one of the windscreen mobs and he said unless you want to take the windscreen out, don't take out that rubber mould you're never get it back in.

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[mudski]

Ahh bugger. Won't be doing much anyway now. The Patrol will have to wait. I've done a disc in the lower back last week, sent me straight to the floor as it was pushing on nerves and my left leg just gave way. Popping anti inflamatories like candy sux. I haven't shit properly in a week. :(

[Hodge]

Ahh bugger. Won't be doing much anyway now. The Patrol will have to wait. I've done a disc in the lower back last week, sent me straight to the floor as it was pushing on nerves and my left leg just gave way. Popping anti inflamatories like candy sux. I haven't shit properly in a week. :(

Bugger mate. The ol back strikes again. You've forever had issues with that... Still working ???

Back to your windscreen...
When you say water coming down your windscreen, are you talking literally dripping on the inside or just misty / foggy on cold morning???
Some moist mornings my windscreen needs heavy de-misting on the inside. Mind you i leave my windows cracked open slightly, maybe thats got to do with it.
Just pondering if i've got the same windscreen dillema maybe.

[mudski]

Bugger mate. The ol back strikes again. You've forever had issues with that... Still working ???

Back to your windscreen...
When you say water coming down your windscreen, are you talking literally dripping on the inside or just misty / foggy on cold morning???
Some moist mornings my windscreen needs heavy de-misting on the inside. Mind you i leave my windows cracked open slightly, maybe thats got to do with it.
Just pondering if i've got the same windscreen dillema maybe.

Yeah its gotten quite bad over the last few months and now its the worst its ever been. Still working yes, I don't have a choice there. Soldier on though.

When it rains or I wash the car, i get water actually running down the inside of the screen.

[mudnut]

Yeah its gotten quite bad over the last few months and now its the worst its ever been. Still working yes, I don't have a choice there. Soldier on though.

When it rains or I wash the car, i get water actually running down the inside of the screen.

Sorry to read your back has given out, Mark.

I found the radius of the windscreen corners were cut too deeply so the rubber couldn't seal properly. I ran a thin bead of sikaflex all round the glass 10 years ago and haven't seen a drop of moisture inside the cab, since.

[MB]

Physiotherapy (Accredited/Certified) Brother [emoji120][emoji120]
Absolutely/accidentally, ‘snapped’ a serious muscle in my back at ‘our’ top mates block clearing wind fell trees some 1-2 years ago [emoji123][emoji123]
Farked around with Chiro,Natro,Oesto, Whatever [emoji848]
Ultrasound technology ‘deep own blood shaking’ through Physiotherapist after only 2 x sessions got me smiling again [emoji120][emoji120]
Twas Bliss, after awakening ever 30 mins to change positions and or load the 3030.


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[Plasnart]

Physiotherapy (Accredited/Certified) Brother [emoji120][emoji120]
Absolutely/accidentally, ‘snapped’ a serious muscle in my back at ‘our’ top mates block clearing wind fell trees some 1-2 years ago [emoji123][emoji123]
Farked around with Chiro,Natro,Oesto, Whatever [emoji848]
Ultrasound technology ‘deep own blood shaking’ through Physiotherapist after only 2 x sessions got me smiling again [emoji120][emoji120]
Twas Bliss, after awakening ever 30 mins to change positions and or load the 3030.


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Just change positions mate, or call me you bloody idiot. 24/7 OK?

[mudski]

Physiotherapy (Accredited/Certified) Brother [emoji120][emoji120]
Absolutely/accidentally, ‘snapped’ a serious muscle in my back at ‘our’ top mates block clearing wind fell trees some 1-2 years ago [emoji123][emoji123]
Farked around with Chiro,Natro,Oesto, Whatever [emoji848]
Ultrasound technology ‘deep own blood shaking’ through Physiotherapist after only 2 x sessions got me smiling again [emoji120][emoji120]
Twas Bliss, after awakening ever 30 mins to change positions and or load the 3030.


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Sorry my google translate said, sorry I got nothing. [emoji1787]


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[mudski]

Sorry to read your back has given out, Mark.

I found the radius of the windscreen corners were cut too deeply so the rubber couldn't seal properly. I ran a thin bead of sikaflex all round the glass 10 years ago and haven't seen a drop of moisture inside the cab, since.

Yeah I want to really see why it’s leaking though. If it’s rust I will have to remove the windscreen and fix it properly.


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[mudski]

Got a couple of things done last week though.
Moved the rear light bracket from the large barn door to the swing away. Also extended it as the spare was creating too much of a shadow.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/08/15.jpg

And put the trailer plug where the light bracket was.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/08/16.jpg



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[mudski]

Thought I’d get the old GUrl back in the garage to attend to a few things before Cape Jaffa at Christmas. One thing on my mind is the god awful creaking from the clutch.
I have bled the clutch fluid out to new fluid. Nothing. Greased the pivot ball, nothing. My
Next thing is to somehow grease the clutch release bearing carrier that slides on the nose cone of the gear box. I reckon this is wear its at. But how on the hell can I do this?

Any ideas?


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[BrazilianY60]

My bet would be on the clutch release fork pivot point, as that happened before in a 1994 4Runner that I had, but you said you have already greased it.
I´d try to have someone operating the clutch while you are under the car trying to pin-point where the creeking comes from.

Now that you mentioned, how did you managed to grease that pivot point? On the car I mentioned, the only think I could do was to remove the clutch fork rubber boot and squirt some WD40 lightly, to avoid spilling much on the clutch itself. Anything better than this would require bell-housing front view.

[mudski]

My bet would be on the clutch release fork pivot point, as that happened before in a 1994 4Runner that I had, but you said you have already greased it.
I´d try to have someone operating the clutch while you are under the car trying to pin-point where the creeking comes from.

Now that you mentioned, how did you managed to grease that pivot point? On the car I mentioned, the only think I could do was to remove the clutch fork rubber boot and squirt some WD40 lightly, to avoid spilling much on the clutch itself. Anything better than this would require bell-housing front view.

I got the wife to depress the clutch while i was under there with a stethoscope and the noise is 100% from the clutch area. So its either the pivot ball, carrier housing or pressure plate itself.

I used a long flat bladed screw driver with grease on the end of it. But after removing the boot again last night and having a better look I may not have gotten the actual pivot ball. I will try again tonight.
I might remove the exhaust dump pipe so I have more inline access into the bell housing.

[mudski]

Righto! So all happy. After lots of googling on patrol sqeaky clutches, the general consensus says it’s the pivot ball. Hmm.
Not being able too see much in there, I found some led strip light, wired it up and stuffed it into the bell housing .
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/11/52.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/11/53.jpg

Worked a treat. I could see clearly in there. And then I used my wheel bearing greasing connection ( it’s like a flexible needle point) for my grease gun which reached the pivot ball no worries.
This silenced the clutch no problem!

Happy days.

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[Sprock]

Good outcome Muddy, we’ll done mate. How’s the back?

[BrazilianY60]

Good one mate! I must try that next time I have the GU at home.

The first look I had at the picture I thought you had stuffed those party necklace things into the bellhousing LOL. That would also be genius!

[mudski]

Good outcome Muddy, we’ll done mate. How’s the back?

Yeah brilliant outcome. Very happy. As for the back. It would have been worse lying on the concrete, that creeper I bought is awesome.

[mudski]

Everything back in. I need to drive the Patrol to work tomorrow as my work car got a flat today, and the front left has a screw in it and the car is booked for a service Friday. So I take the flat to them and ask them to just plug it as Friday I will be in and it needs new tyres anyway. They said they couldn’t because the hole was too close to the side wall and they can’t repair this. Even though I was to just use this repaired tyre as redundancy just I case the spare I’m on fails, more so because the front left has a screw in it too. Lol. Nope they flat out refused. So knowing my luck. I’ll get another flat so the Poo’ey will have a chance to terrify the public tomorrow.


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[mudski]

Seriously thinking of ditching this Fatz Fab air box too. I should never have bought it. I should have gone the flat panel design over this. As this thing would barely do 5k in travel a year, and oiled air filters don’t like sitting around, they will lose their filtration efficiency.
So I might look around for a better setup soon.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/11/54.jpg


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[BrazilianY60]

...has a screw ... has a screw in it too...

Screws are safe mate! Just keep them torqued to spec!

:smileyvault-cute-bi

[mudski]

Screws are safe mate! Just keep them torqued to spec!

:smileyvault-cute-bi

Haha yeah. It actaully had a very slow leak coming from under the screw. So I tightened it up and it stopped! Not chancing it though. I took the Patrol this morning. i must say I now know why the pivot ball can snap. Lack of lubrication. Before, the clutch pedal was light'ish, but it wasn't smooth, I could feel it grabbing, hence me thinking the bearing carrier was grabbing. Now, it feels lighter underfoot (placebo maybe), but very smooth.

I put 29Ltrs of Diesel in it this morning, 68 F%*king dollars! The gauge needle barely moved. Lucky I have a company car and fuel card!

[MB]

Seriously thinking of ditching this Fatz Fab air box too. I should never have bought it. I should have gone the flat panel design over this. As this thing would barely do 5k in travel a year, and oiled air filters don’t like sitting around, they will lose their filtration efficiency.
So I might look around for a better setup soon.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/11/54.jpg


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Thanks to nissannewby Brother, took his TOP advice on an A1358 panel filter for TD42 setup mudski Brother [emoji120][emoji120]
Have scored out and about replacement Rycos from SC Auto/Repco/Auto One as cheap as $13.95 during Covid but the real win in my opinion is touring space saving of slimline rectangular filters stored, anywhere/everywhere, unfortunately less room for People/Picture stick mag stacks under our seats these days [emoji22][emoji23][emoji23]


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[mudski]

Thanks to nissannewby Brother, took his TOP advice on an A1358 panel filter for TD42 setup mudski Brother [emoji120][emoji120]
Have scored out and about replacement Rycos from SC Auto/Repco/Auto One as cheap as $13.95 during Covid but the real win in my opinion is touring space saving of slimline rectangular filters stored, anywhere/everywhere, unfortunately less room for People/Picture stick mag stacks under our seats these days [emoji22][emoji23][emoji23]


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Where did your air box come from Mark?


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[MB]

Beautifully engineered ‘Black Mamba’ alloy 4” airbox Mr Mark Mate. Horribly expensive twas but replacement filters are at least 1/4 price of any say GU monstrous sized cannisters [emoji22]


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[MB]

Used to piss me off too how OEM GU & GQ filtration systems flow to a single dirty point inlet cannister/ring whatever. Their filters have alot more region to filtrate but poor design concentrates in a ‘spot’ [emoji22]
Much like nissannewby Legend has always tried to educate TD42 intake plenums spreading the volume evenly. Plate type airboxes with well designed plenums too spread the load and you’ll get every pennies worth out of a cheap V8 filter [emoji120][emoji120]


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[mudski]

Time for a new starter battery. What model Optima Yellow top fits these GU"s?

[Hodge]

Time for a new starter battery. What model Optima Yellow top fits these GU"s?I have the Bluetop D31M . Identical to yellow top except it's marine grade . But the only reason I went Bluetop it's for extra bolt posts.
It fits, but slightly on a angle in the tray as you can see in the photo possibly.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/01/5.jpg

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[mudski]

Thanks.
Yeah nah I won't be buying an Optima battery after seeing the prices. Gawd.

[10G]

Timely. I'm looking for a new aux battery.

The CSR killed my 2nd Super Charge. Killed one on the Anne Beadell, killed the other on the CSR.

They don't seem to like corrrrrrrruggggaaaattttiiiooonnnssss.

Was thinking of going Optima, they have a pretty good reputation for strength & reliability don't they?

[pearcey]

I run 4 D31 M batteries, just changed two in the van after 12 years . One was just starting to show signs of failing so replaced them both. Have two in the Tryhard, one start and one auxiliary both have been in there for around 8 years Only problem ,well not a problem is that the biggest you can get is 75 AH . Never had a problem, the ones in the Tryhard have covered around 200.000 Ks and alot of that has been in hard country. The van ones have been on some pretty hard country as well and would have traveled around 100.000 Ks .I wont buy anyting else. Yes they are a little on the expensive side but I`ve had good value for money. Price wise try R and J Batteries, I got the best deal around, alot better that any deals on EBay
The Marine ones are as tough as nails, built to withstand the bashing around in boats. The M in the part number stands for Marine.

[mudski]

Hmm contemplating what to do. Spend $200 on a regular battery or $400 on an Optima. Hard to justify the extra, I know they are much better but I’m not sure. I need to think about it.
Thrust bearing for the clutch is now also screaming away after the latest Cape Jaffa trip.
So it maybe clutch time also dammit.


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[MB]

Coupla A D27’s and or 31’s conjoined like Twinsies will scare our TD42’s into starting life like never before and haul some serious cranking winch 12v capers [emoji736][emoji23]
Watch out for the 24v Nutters swapping terminals on your high mount [emoji120][emoji120][emoji23]
Only batteries I know of so far that can come back to near full life after say 2.6V and keep on keeping on [emoji3590][emoji3590]


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[Hodge]

Hmm contemplating what to do. Spend $200 on a regular battery or $400 on an Optima. Hard to justify the extra, I know they are much better but I’m not sure. I need to think about it.
Thrust bearing for the clutch is now also screaming away after the latest Cape Jaffa trip.
So it maybe clutch time also dammit.


Honestly mate, I doubt you'd go wrong with a set of cheaper "supposedly" Aussie built Centuries. Optimas are pricey...
What sold me on Optimas was seeing a set in a 24v combo in my work truck. Been in them since 2014 and STILL keeps on keeping on. After hearing very good things about them in the 4x4 community, I got one through my work mechanic with a "corporate" discount.
If I was in the same scenario today, I' be thinking twice like you and i dont think id hesitate on a century for a bang-for-buck battery if money was a key item.
You don't use your TD much as it isnt your daily. So consider that in your choice I reckon.

[PeeBee]

For my 2 cents worth, I found the wet cells from Century would last up to 10 yrs as a cranker if I was using the vehicle regularly and they were supplemented with a charger when left for a week or so that had a desulphation routine, however my latest centiry cranker died after 3 yrs as the vehicle was nt being driven and only maintained with the Cetek and Victron chargers, both with desulphation cycles - not sure why but thats what happened. I then moved to a higher priced wet sealed battery and same deal, lasted 2 yrs on maintenance charge as a cranker, so I went the Optima Blue unit because its he same capacity as the yellow but has the extra terminals for aux. cables. I spoke with the guy at Battery world and he confirmed its a casing change to define industry use, but same internals. There is no extra anti vibration 'stuff' inside it regards pounding from marine use according to him - unlike the wet cells that do have some differences in the baffling I understand.

I cannot attest to whether there is any improvement as yet, yes its an expensive battery but if it has lower self discharge and retains high CCA capacity then I am going to be happy. I selected the 8027-227, 845cca and this is ample for the Chev even when sitting for 3 days below zero, kicks off strong.

[mudski]

Honestly mate, I doubt you'd go wrong with a set of cheaper "supposedly" Aussie built Centuries. Optimas are pricey...
What sold me on Optimas was seeing a set in a 24v combo in my work truck. Been in them since 2014 and STILL keeps on keeping on. After hearing very good things about them in the 4x4 community, I got one through my work mechanic with a "corporate" discount.
If I was in the same scenario today, I' be thinking twice like you and i dont think id hesitate on a century for a bang-for-buck battery if money was a key item.
You don't use your TD much as it isnt your daily. So consider that in your choice I reckon.

I dropped into Repco today to get some gearbox oil and their Repco branded batteries are made by Century.


For my 2 cents worth, I found the wet cells from Century would last up to 10 yrs as a cranker if I was using the vehicle regularly and they were supplemented with a charger when left for a week or so that had a desulphation routine, however my latest centiry cranker died after 3 yrs as the vehicle was nt being driven and only maintained with the Cetek and Victron chargers, both with desulphation cycles - not sure why but thats what happened. I then moved to a higher priced wet sealed battery and same deal, lasted 2 yrs on maintenance charge as a cranker, so I went the Optima Blue unit because its he same capacity as the yellow but has the extra terminals for aux. cables. I spoke with the guy at Battery world and he confirmed its a casing change to define industry use, but same internals. There is no extra anti vibration 'stuff' inside it regards pounding from marine use according to him - unlike the wet cells that do have some differences in the baffling I understand.

I cannot attest to whether there is any improvement as yet, yes its an expensive battery but if it has lower self discharge and retains high CCA capacity then I am going to be happy. I selected the 8027-227, 845cca and this is ample for the Chev even when sitting for 3 days below zero, kicks off strong.

Funny you say this Phil. This battery has really gone to shite over the last 18 or so months as it lack of use, but when it is sitting, I keep my Ctek MXS charger on it the entire time. I forget to turn it on, and the battery is dead within a week. Never used to be like this. It is probably 5 or so years old too...

Decisions. I am a firm believer of you get what you pay for but, at double the price, its a hard pill to swallow.

[PeeBee]

I dropped into Repco today to get some gearbox oil and their Repco branded batteries are made by Century.



Funny you say this Phil. This battery has really gone to shite over the last 18 or so months as it lack of use, but when it is sitting, I keep my Ctek MXS charger on it the entire time. I forget to turn it on, and the battery is dead within a week. Never used to be like this. It is probably 5 or so years old too...

Decisions. I am a firm believer of you get what you pay for but, at double the price, its a hard pill to swallow.

Yeah, it a choice for sure, but if you look at the experiences of some of the guys who run these Optimas, they appear to go for longer, just need to balance if the extra attributes are worth it I guess.

[mudski]

Medium engine HP, hot conditions, towing a heavy load and pushing the old bus a bit too much doesn’t do wonders for gearbox oil.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/01/7.jpg


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[nissannewby]

The colour of that is not good. The orange tinge is hinting something could be up. It's pretty common for it to be that colour when say 3rd or 5th gear is on its way out. Have you had any issues with the boxes operation?

[mudski]

The colour of that is not good. The orange tinge is hinting something could be up. It's pretty common for it to be that colour when say 3rd or 5th gear is on its way out. Have you had any issues with the boxes operation?

Goi g from 3rd to 4th under power it’s very notchy. Has always been though. The box is 450thou old so it’s on its way out I think.


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[nissannewby]

Yeah 3rd can be a problem with warmed up higher torque TD's. Some guys like the 4.8 manual as 3rd is a little shorter than the TD specific box.

[mudski]

I did not know the 4.8came out with manual. The oil smells really burnt. This is where my burning smell was coming from on the last hour of the trip to Cape Jaffa. It was hot as hell outside, I was towing and really pushing the GU. Every time we slowed or stopped at an intersection the cabin would fill with this awful smell.
I’ve put new oil in, I’ll run it for an hour or so and then drain and put fresh oil in again. Transfer oil looked fine but I’m changing that, the diff oils look d perfect still.


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[mudski]

New battery in. Not an Optima but I can’t justify spending a lot so this one will do.
Also fitted these terminal blocks. A bit neater.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/01/11.jpg


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[Sprock]

Yeah that gearbox oil doesn’t look good, how many Ks has that oil done? Those terminal blocks look shitot- I’ve never seen them before.

[mudski]

Yeah that gearbox oil doesn’t look good, how many Ks has that oil done? Those terminal blocks look shitot- I’ve never seen them before.

Gear box oils probably done 20-30thou.
But I know I cooked it on our last trip. Towing, it was hot and using 5th. Happened once before when I first got the TD transplant done. There is a shit load of torque going through the driveline when towing, and in 5th gear, the workshop warned me.
Changed the oil out and it all good now.


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[Brissieboy]

Also fitted these terminal blocks. A bit neater.

Where did you get those terminal blocks? Best looking solid meaty units that I have seen, and with plenty of connection points.

[PeeBee]

Where did you get those terminal blocks? Best looking solid meaty units that I have seen, and with plenty of connection points.

I thought the same and found these on ebay yesterday, now ordered!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173924697535?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D7770 08%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D202207 05100511%26meid%3Dcea4cd273c7a4d7785eae35980730296 %26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D1739246 97535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3D RecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A904db86a-946a-11ed-913c-f654bcdfd22e%7Cparentrq%3Ab2cd89491850a60c1336eed3 fffa4f7d%7Ciid%3A1

[Sprock]

I was told yrs ago not to labour tow In 5th- ie: don’t pull in 5th- fine to coast down hill & cruising along the flats but never pull in 5th because 5th gear is tiny in most 4wd gearboxes- about the size of a 50c piece ( that’s what I was told) anyway it gets hot & cooks the oil then it destroys everything. That was in Ranger/ BT50 gearboxes & im lead to believe most others aswell so I’ve just stuck with that. Happy to be told otherwise.

[BrazilianY60]

I'm with everyone else regarding the batery blocks, nice stuff! On a second look, what have you done for the fusible link? I believe it is incorporated into the positive block, isn't it?

[jff45]

New battery in. Not an Optima but I can’t justify spending a lot so this one will do.
Also fitted these terminal blocks. A bit neater.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/01/11.jpg



Mark, to insulate the positive side I made a red acrylic cover with a heat gun. They just looked too easy to short circuit..


86489

[Hodge]

They just looked too easy to short circuit..


Yep. See ya later oil dip stick.



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[BrazilianY60]

Hi John.
What is that red thing with two buttons on top?

[BrazilianY60]

Yep. See ya later oil dip stick.



Sent from my Pixel 6 using TapatalkWould never cross my mind. Nice thinking!

[jay see]

I thought the same and found these on ebay yesterday, now ordered!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173924697535?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D7770 08%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D202207 05100511%26meid%3Dcea4cd273c7a4d7785eae35980730296 %26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D1739246 97535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3D RecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A904db86a-946a-11ed-913c-f654bcdfd22e%7Cparentrq%3Ab2cd89491850a60c1336eed3 fffa4f7d%7Ciid%3A1Haha Me too..

See what you've started mark..

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[jff45]

Hi John.
What is that red thing with two buttons on top?

circuit breaker.. the ‘buttons’ are just the insulation that go onto the studs that the wires are bolted to.
It’s just a protection for the wire that feeds my DCDC charger.


86490

[Hodge]

Would never cross my mind. Nice thinking!Yep, speaking from experience here lol. My oil dip stick has a few "positive" battle weld marks .


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[jay see]

Yep, speaking from experience here lol. My oil dip stick has a few "positive" battle weld marks .


Sent from my Pixel 6 using TapatalkYep, I'm part of the club too[emoji23]

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[mudski]

I was told yrs ago not to labour tow In 5th- ie: don’t pull in 5th- fine to coast down hill & cruising along the flats but never pull in 5th because 5th gear is tiny in most 4wd gearboxes- about the size of a 50c piece ( that’s what I was told) anyway it gets hot & cooks the oil then it destroys everything. That was in Ranger/ BT50 gearboxes & im lead to believe most others aswell so I’ve just stuck with that. Happy to be told otherwise.

Exactly what I was doing. Changed the oil out and is all good now.


Haha Me too..

See what you've started mark..

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Pretty sure it was Erics fault. I think he bought them a while ago, I did after seeing them but never fitted them.


Yep, speaking from experience here lol. My oil dip stick has a few "positive" battle weld marks .


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Yep, I'm part of the club too[emoji23]

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The side of my Cross country intercooler has had a spanner or two welded to it in the past....

[mudski]

Mark, to insulate the positive side I made a red acrylic cover with a heat gun. They just looked too easy to short circuit..




Yeah I was thinking I need to cover it...

[Winnie]

Exactly what I was doing. Changed the oil out and is all good now.


Pretty sure it was Erics fault. I think he bought them a while ago, I did after seeing them but never fitted them.





The side of my Cross country intercooler has had a spanner or two welded to it in the past....Better than a hole in the AC line on your Mrs brand new car the day before you are towing a caravan for 8 hours on a 40 degree day.
Ask me how I know.

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[Brissieboy]

And this one slipped out of my hand onto the second battery between positive and the retaining bracket.86493

[pearcey]

And this one slipped out of my hand onto the second battery between positive and the retaining bracket.86493

No wonder it slipped outta your hand it`s only SIX inches long ,LMAO.

[MudRunnerTD]

Better than a hole in the AC line on your Mrs brand new car the day before you are towing a caravan for 8 hours on a 40 degree day.
Ask me how I know.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

hahahaha. I was gunna Tag you! LOL

[mudski]

So what’s the best thing to protect the cable lugs to the winch solenoid and winch motor from corrosion? Both end on my hi mount were pretty bad. All cleaned up now though.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/2.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/3.jpg

I was thinking to use dielectric grease. Went to Jaycar yesterday and they didn’t know what it was. Lol.

I use to use this stuff all the time in my nerdy sub zero Vapo chilling computer days to stop condensation killing the computer.

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[Hodge]

I use a combo of the following Mark.
Lanotec and Inox MX3. Swear by it.
Not just elecy stuff that's weather prone , but everything in general. I've thrown CRC and wd40 in the bin years ago when I discovered this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/4.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Then there’s the windscreen leak issue. Do it just silicone up the outer rubber and ignore that there is probably a rust issue? Or. Remove the windscreen and take the time to properly repair it? Which will take much longer to do.


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[mudski]

I use a combo of the following Mark.
Lanotec and Inox MX3. Swear by it.
Not just elecy stuff that's weather prone , but everything in general. I've thrown CRC and wd40 in the bin years ago when I discovered this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/4.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

Oh yeah I know how good that MX3 stuff is. I have it also.


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[Alitis007]

Hey Mark had a read through your journey the trol has taken, well done mate! Did you sort the buzzing relay out? I had one do the same recently and it was as simple as cleaning the neg terminal earths to the body and engine. Your winch wires can be sealed after cleaning and re connecting wire liquid electrical tape like they do with marine wiring. There’s probably other products on the market but boat electronics in salt water corrodes fast so look at what they use to help with that situation.

[Hodge]

Oh yeah I know how good that MX3 stuff is. I have it also.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI forgot !!!
Next time I see you I'll give you a tube of electrical corrosion inhibitior we use on tower lines... Ugly smelly heavy duty shit..We literally call it dog shit. Smeared some on my winch connections for years. No issues !

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[jay see]

Then there’s the windscreen leak issue. Do it just silicone up the outer rubber and ignore that there is probably a rust issue? Or. Remove the windscreen and take the time to properly repair it? Which will take much longer to do.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf you go down the remove and refit option and you want the screen done professionally yell out, my son does it for a living. I sure he'll look after ya..

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Hey Mark had a read through your journey the trol has taken, well done mate! Did you sort the buzzing relay out? I had one do the same recently and it was as simple as cleaning the neg terminal earths to the body and engine. Your winch wires can be sealed after cleaning and re connecting wire liquid electrical tape like they do with marine wiring. There’s probably other products on the market but boat electronics in salt water corrodes fast so look at what they use to help with that situation.

Still got the buzzing relay mate but I have found many others with the same thing with no resolve. The buzzing stops as soon as the vehicle is running, so it’s on the back burner for now.


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[mudski]

If you go down the remove and refit option and you want the screen done professionally yell out, my son does it for a living. I sure he'll look after ya..

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

I may have to get his number mate. Ideally I want the screen removed, then left to me to fix it up, then get a guy back in to install a new windscreen.


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[jay see]

I may have to get his number mate. Ideally I want the screen removed, then left to me to fix it up, then get a guy back in to install a new windscreen.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkPm sent

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[Alitis007]

Still got the buzzing relay mate but I have found many others with the same thing with no resolve. The buzzing stops as soon as the vehicle is running, so it’s on the back burner for now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine had been buzzing for over a year lol. Easy 5 minute job when you’re in the engine bay to buff the terminal and post, take off the body connection under the battery, buff brass tab and body with a sotchbright whizzer disc and do the same on the engine.

Oh and if you’re pulling the screen get a genuine inner and outer window seal, the factory outer seal has a raised lip 3/4 of the way along to to deflect water up onto the roof and stops it flicking in through the door windows when it’s wet

[jack]

Mine had been buzzing for over a year lol. Easy 5 minute job when you’re in the engine bay to buff the terminal and post, take off the body connection under the battery, buff brass tab and body with a sotchbright whizzer disc and do the same on the engine.

Oh and if you’re pulling the screen get a genuine inner and outer window seal, the factory outer seal has a raised lip 3/4 of the way along to to deflect water up onto the roof and stops it flicking in through the door windows when it’s wet

I had a similar buzzing issue years ago and Yendor pointed in in the right direction. Not sure if yours and &Mudski issue is the same as mine but have a look at what was causing mine. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39801-Relay-Chattering-Cycling-Noise&highlight=Relay

[mudski]

I had a similar buzzing issue years ago and Yendor pointed in in the right direction. Not sure if yours and &Mudski issue is the same as mine but have a look at what was causing mine. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39801-Relay-Chattering-Cycling-Noise&highlight=Relay

The buzzing in mine is from under the bonnet. I'm not bothered by it to be honest. Its been doing it for years. I'll look at fixing it one day. Maybe.

[Hodge]

Oh yeah I know how good that MX3 stuff is. I have it also.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkGot a tube of the good stuff for you next time I see you. Perfect for exposed winch connections.
Been using it on my forever not a spec of rust or any corrosion! We use this on every connection on the lines.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/5.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[Brissieboy]

So what’s the best thing to protect the cable lugs to the winch solenoid and winch motor from corrosion?

I use this stuff, but not sure it is still around today.86635
I have a spray can that I have had for probably 25+ years. Works a treat. Just clean any corrosion (just boiling water) and give it a light squirt with this and it is done. Seems to last for ever. And I will never be able to use up the can.

[Brissieboy]

Oh yeah I know how good that MX3 stuff is. I have it also.


On a similar topic, if you are just after a good penetrating liquid (rusty nuts etc) try a 50/50 mix of Auto transmission fluid and acetone. Best I have come across.

[Alitis007]

I had a similar buzzing issue years ago and Yendor pointed in in the right direction. Not sure if yours and &Mudski issue is the same as mine but have a look at what was causing mine. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39801-Relay-Chattering-Cycling-Noise&highlight=Relay
Mine was simple as dirty earths. I was chasing an other fault but cleaning them by chance sorted a couple of other random intermittent issues too which was a bonus

[mudski]

Gave the old GUrl a bath today. Still scrubs up alright with original paint.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/16.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/17.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/18.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/03/19.jpg





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[jay see]

Looking smick..

Be doing the same tomorrow morning mate, then heading out Ballarat way to see some friends that have recently made the tree change move from Flemington. Hope your not parking it up after bath time, your not too far from some great spots.


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[mudski]

Looking smick..

Be doing the same tomorrow morning mate, then heading out Ballarat way to see some friends that have recently made the tree change move from Flemington. Hope your not parking it up after bath time, your not too far from some great spots.


Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

Spent yesterday out out the road. Went from home to Marysville via Warburton and the Reefton spur. All black top. No dirt. Spent too many hours cleaning the old duck up.


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[jay see]

Spent yesterday out out the road. Went from home to Marysville via Warburton and the Reeton spur. All black top. No dirt. Spent too many hours cleaning the old duck up.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAhh good to read that..

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[rusty_nail]

Spent too many hours cleaning the old duck up.


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what about your car though? haha

[mudski]

So after last weekend trip, I have no A/C and the thrust bearing for the clutch is screaming it tits off, well since our last Cape Jaffa trip this all started when I stupidly flogged the Patrol in 37c heat with the van in tow whilst using 5th gear. I managed to cook the gearbox oil and ever since the thrust bearing has been noisy, but a whole lot worse now.

As far as I know, if the A/c is not turning on, its either and electrical issue, blown fuse or broken connection somewhere. Or, its out of gas. So I need to sort that out. Then theres the clutch. No easy way out of this so I will be paying someone to do this. Alitis007. I'll be calling you soon mate.

[MB TD42]

Bugger...my AC is low on gas again now won't click on. Some green goo on the bottom of it. Hope its not oozing death.

Thank ferk its winter...lol...gonna leave mine till end of winter before I bother getting it checked.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Bugger...my AC is low on gas again now won't click on. Some green goo on the bottom of it. Hope its not oozing death.

Thank ferk its winter...lol...gonna leave mine till end of winter before I bother getting it checked.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If you intend to keep the AC in working order, its better to get the system drained and the faulty seal or compressor replaced ASAP. The tech will evacuate any air and moisture from the system, before adding new oil and refrigerant. This will ensure any seals or components won't dry out and fail.

[Cremulator]

So after last weekend trip, I have no A/C and the thrust bearing for the clutch is screaming it tits off, well since our last Cape Jaffa trip this all started when I stupidly flogged the Patrol in 37c heat with the van in tow whilst using 5th gear. I managed to cook the gearbox oil and ever since the thrust bearing has been noisy, but a whole lot worse now.

As far as I know, if the A/c is not turning on, its either and electrical issue, blown fuse or broken connection somewhere. Or, its out of gas. So I need to sort that out. Then theres the clutch. No easy way out of this so I will be paying someone to do this. Alitis007. I'll be calling you soon mate.I had to troubleshoot my aircon not turning on too. A mechanic mate of mine helped me and we resolved it in less than 10mins.

First, take this little cap off and press the valve in *briefly* to check there is gas in the system.
**It's marked with an L for low, DO NOT press in the side near the radiator marked with an H, that is high pressure**
If there is gas in the system, it's either a problem with the compressor, electrics or control module.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/04/74.jpg
My problem ended up being a dirty contact in this terminal preventing the receiver/dryer from switching the system on.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/04/75.jpg
I cleaned the contacts in this plug with some electrical contact cleaner and it worked perfectly again!
Hopefully yours is an easy fix too!

[mudski]

I had to troubleshoot my aircon not turning on too. A mechanic mate of mine helped me and we resolved it in less than 10mins.

First, take this little cap off and press the valve in *briefly* to check there is gas in the system.
**It's marked with an L for low, DO NOT press in the side near the radiator marked with an H, that is high pressure**
If there is gas in the system, it's either a problem with the compressor, electrics or control module.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/04/74.jpg
My problem ended up being a dirty contact in this terminal preventing the receiver/dryer from switching the system on.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/04/75.jpg
I cleaned the contacts in this plug with some electrical contact cleaner and it worked perfectly again!
Hopefully yours is an easy fix too!

Thanks mate. I will have a look at this for sure.


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[mudski]

New Clutch in, a big thanks to George for fitting me in. Bloody annoyed though. The actual clutch was fine, still had plenty of life in it, the thrust bearing was about to explode though. So having to go through all the trouble of changing out just the bearing. A whole new clutch went in. $1650 later...

The A/c compressor is shot, so I ordered that and got it to Georges workshop, then the daughter decided to write her car off, so I had to collect the Patrol early, with no new a/c installed as yet, so she can drive the Patrol around until she find a new ride.

[mudski]

So all the winch elecy points are cleaned, sealed and clean covered.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/20.jpg



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[mudski]

Now I keep looking at my air box. It’s shit. I need to swap it out for a flat panel style box
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/4.jpg

This is my industry. Filtration, but, I’ve ignored the obvious for too long. Pod filters are shit. I really need to get rid of it. Time to investigate.


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[PeeBee]

Mark, do the numbers on the airflow, air to cloth ratio recommended for the style of driving and the anticipated dust load - this will lead you to what type/style/size of filter is required. This is air filtration 101 stuff. So often i see these you beaut air filters stuffed into a corner where they will fit without any regards to the engineering - and by that i am talking about pressure drop across the filter, particulate migration through the filter media, service intervals and serviceability - bearing in mind this is a whole minefield on its own - just how particulate is released to a satisfactory level one it is embedded in either a cloth or foam element is beyond me.

Flat pack filters may be cheap and convenient but they have limited filtration area. Looking at the filter condition in the photo suggests your filter is way past its servicable limits, so acknowledging your area of expertise I can see some areas look at. I run a filter on my chev that has been engineered - I did the numbers, and its based around face velocity and volumetric flow against the media being used - took me a couple of weeks to get the info from the filter manufacturer's - they have it, just prefer to catalogue engineer a solution to the mug punter aligned with what is the largest you can fit and what fits within the product catalogue. I have been in the industrial air filtration and baghouse design arena for 25 yrs, so know how to size and select a filter - unfortunately cars dont have the necessary space to accomodate the air/cloth ratios, so it comes down to frequency of service, which is easy to neglect. Hope this helps.

[mudski]

Mark, do the numbers on the airflow…Looking at the filter condition in the photo suggests your filter is way past its servicable limits,.

Yep. I’ve done the numbers and what I should be fitting with the amount of air flow my TD produces, I’d have to mount the air box externally. There will be an amount of compromise.
Flat panel filters aren’t the best, I know this. Cylindrical filtration is better for area coverage. But this K&N setup I have is no good for me because the Patrol sits unused for most of the year and the oil in the element ends up at the lowest part of the element rendering most of the filter dry and useless.

That filter Phil is actually not that dirty. I run a very fine mesh sock over the filter element for that added protection. Which helps a great deal.

I need to get rid of the aux battery to give me more room to play with. So baby steps. Convince the minister of war and finance that a lithium battery is needed, I then can put this in the cab somewhere, then try to convince her that the air box needs to go for something better. But funds are not as free as they used to be…

Food for thought.


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[mudski]

I finally cleaned up all the winch power lead contacts and got dust boots and covered them in di-electric grease.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/5.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Yep. I’ve done the numbers and what I should be fitting with the amount of air flow my TD produces, I’d have to mount the air box externally. There will be an amount of compromise.
Flat panel filters aren’t the best, I know this. Cylindrical filtration is better for area coverage. But this K&N setup I have is no good for me because the Patrol sits unused for most of the year and the oil in the element ends up at the lowest part of the element rendering most of the filter dry and useless.

That filter Phil is actually not that dirty. I run a very fine mesh sock over the filter element for that added protection. Which helps a great deal.

I need to get rid of the aux battery to give me more room to play with. So baby steps. Convince the minister of war and finance that a lithium battery is needed, I then can put this in the cab somewhere, then try to convince her that the air box needs to go for something better. But funds are not as free as they used to be…

Food for thought.


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Good news all round Mark, and understand the real estate is always the problem. I filled whatever void I had with the filter box that aligned with the filtration area required and it was a bum in a bucket installation, far too tight for normal daily access and also a pain for the A/C access off the compressor. I have done a bit of rationalisation with the latest round and have the same box, but better clearance - just. The external 'dirt load' on your pre-filter sock will actually help you as its a common phase during filter break-in to develop that 'layer' - seems counter intuitive in some regards but its actually an additional filtration layer. The only time it becomes a real issue is in high moisture environments or when sucking in foggy air as it can soften and liquidise the dirt into a mud/paint and clog the filter weave very quickly - again there are very few ways around this beside pre-conditioning the air before it hits the filter material, such as temperature and moisture removal - not happening on a car. Maybe the strategy is to simply swap out the elements more frequently, and stay with the smaller footprint?

[mudski]

So the Patrol has been parked in the garage for the last two weeks. I go to start it yesterday and nothing, not even a light on the dash came up, like I had not connected the battery. I check that, yep its connected. I grab the DMM and test it. 1 Volt!. Feck! I chuck the Ctek MXS 10 charger and nup, she won't even fire up. Hmm, so I grab my 30 year old 8amp charger and use this until some voltage was getting in, then I quickly switch over to the Ctek before the volts drop again to low for the Ctek to work. Got it going.
The Ctek has been on recond mode since around 2'ish yesterday and I check at 6am this morning and its still charging and hasn't reached the trickle stage yet.

So before I have to go get a new battery, I need to find what is draining the battery so fast.

The starter motor was playing up for a bit there, when my daughter was driving the Patrol she got caught out a few times with the Patrol not wanting to start, even when warm, in the end the Patrol would not start at all so I tapped the solenoid with a hammer and its been good ever since.

Could a sticking solenoid drain power when switched off?

[PeeBee]

The solenoid is just a coil with a sliding spool, when you hit the solenoid with the hammer you dislodge the interface between the spool and the coil, so unless the power is left on, which means you have a 'held start function' on the ign switch I cant see it related to be honest. Significant voltage drop though, 1 V. I killed a battery crossing the Simpson with a Finch Fridge, brand new, but the Finch has no thermostat on 12V, I arrived back in melb with a new Century wet cell at 2V - battery rooted, no warranty - would not think its a catastrophic all cell failure - look at the aux items connected I reckon.

[mudnut]

If all the aux stuff is ok, then a common component failure is the alternator regulator diodes.

[mudski]

The solenoid is just a coil with a sliding spool, when you hit the solenoid with the hammer you dislodge the interface between the spool and the coil, so unless the power is left on, which means you have a 'held start function' on the ign switch I cant see it related to be honest. Significant voltage drop though, 1 V. I killed a battery crossing the Simpson with a Finch Fridge, brand new, but the Finch has no thermostat on 12V, I arrived back in melb with a new Century wet cell at 2V - battery rooted, no warranty - would not think its a catastrophic all cell failure - look at the aux items connected I reckon.
I have no Aux items to the main battery so I'm sweet there.

If all the aux stuff is ok, then a common component failure is the alternator regulator diodes.

Can I test the alternator for that? Or if I run a test, like you mentioned a few weeks ago to me, and unplug the alternator and see if anything changes?

Edit : Just googled it. Lol

Can a bad diode in an alternator drain a battery?
A bad diode in the rectifier can allow current to pass the wrong direction through the circuit, even when the engine is no longer running. It's like the tap on a water jug that has a constant trickle, eventually depleting the resource it holds inside. It's called a parasitic draw or drain.

[mudnut]

Do not run the engine with the alternator disconnected. I destroyed one once, doing just that. With the multimeter connected in series with the negative to earth (do it on the 10 amp setting), there should be a quick spike in parasitic draw, for the clock and sound system, etc, then should drop to bugger all. If it is above the small milliamp range, then try pulling fuses and relays, before disconnecting the alternator.

[mudski]

Do not run the engine with the alternator disconnected. I destroyed one once, doing just that. With the multimeter connected in series with the negative to earth (do it on the 10 amp setting), there should be a quick spike in parasitic draw, for the clock and sound system, etc, then should drop to bugger all. If it is above the small milliamp range, then try pulling fuses and relays, before disconnecting the alternator.

Hmm, that just went over my head like a low flying duck. :icon_bonk: I'll YouTube it!

[Rossco]

Yeah I had a bad alternator that had parasitic draw was a PITA. . . When you say don't run motor with alternator discontented Muddy do you mean unplugged but still with belts attached or other way round, and why does this bugger them?? . . .

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[mudnut]

Yeah I had a bad alternator that had parasitic draw was a PITA. . . When you say don't run motor with alternator discontented Muddy do you mean unplugged but still with belts attached or other way round, and why does this bugger them?? . . .

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Unplugged but belt on. A very long time ago (decades) I think had the main output disconnected and started the engine. It blew the regulator by the time I got out of the cab and realised my mistake (maybe 30 seconds).

[mudski]

mudnut
I think I’ve got it set up right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/f5dbb73515bf31d852b77e323103d8e1.jpg

And after a few minutes it dropped
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/6c6aba30a803e0bd22111c78f7bd9a83.jpg

I noticed even opening the door on the car, even without the interior light on the reading goes up from .08 to .10
From what I’ve read that is normal.


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[mudski]

Removed every fuse. The only fuse that mad the dmm move was the air bag fuse. From .10 to .09.
Opening the door read more.


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[Bidja]

Not a collapsed cell in battery?
Maybe put it on chg over night and then have battery joint do a load test.

[mudnut]

mudnut
I think I’ve got it set up right.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/11.jpg

And after a few minutes it dropped
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/12.jpg

I noticed even opening the door on the car, even without the interior light on the reading goes up from .08 to .10
From what I’ve read that is normal.


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The reading is a little on the high side, but a fully charged battery should handle it overnight.

[PeeBee]

Not a collapsed cell in battery?
Maybe put it on chg over night and then have battery joint do a load test.

I would expect a collapsed cell would be in the order of 2.2V drop not 11V.

[mudski]

So I have found the culprit, but not sure how to fix it.
This first pic looks of the dmm you can see the circuit breaker is off.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/13.jpg


This breaker is fed from the main battery and goes to a fuse block, this fuse block feeds power to each relay, Oem and aftermarket in the original relay housing.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/14.jpg

Probably 10 years ago I modified the relay box to house all the added relays that were strewn all through the engine bay. It has worked really well.

This is what happens when i activate the breaker.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/15.jpg

I tracked it down to fuse number 4, which feeds the relay for the spot lights.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/16.jpg

I remove the fuse, the reading drops. I put the fuse back in and remove the relay. Nothing. It stays the same!
Why?
This is about as far as my lecky knowledge goes with fault finding.

Any ideas for what to do next?

I removed every relay also with no change.


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[mudski]

Not a collapsed cell in battery?
Maybe put it on chg over night and then have battery joint do a load test.

The battery was on a recond charge for 24hours prior. It brought the battery back from the dead, I didn't load test it though last night, my brain was cooked just finding the issue, I will test it tonight, and try to figure out where to look now.
I did put new Narva push button dash switches in maybe 18 months ago, for the light bar and spotties, I might just unplug the switch to see what happens there I suppose.

[BrazilianY60]

Do not run the engine with the alternator disconnected. I destroyed one once, doing just that.

Shite! Just did that last week flushing the GQ cooling system before finishing fixing/cleaning/re-wrapping my engine bay left side harness... didn't notice anything going crazy or smoky after that but you got me worried...

[mudnut]

Are your spotties after market?

[Bidja]

Could remove battery, chg it overnight and leave it at float (chg) voltage to see how she holds SOC. Still do load test.

[mudski]

Are your spotties after market?

Yes they are mate. I might disconnect the spotties and see what happens...


Could remove battery, chg it overnight and leave it at float (chg) voltage to see how she holds SOC. Still do load test.

Yeah I will be doing that for sure.

[mudski]

Hmm seems my forgetting somethings is biting me in the ass.
Fuse 4 in my fuse block is no longer linked to relay 4 in the relay block. I hadn’t changed the labelling from when I worked on it last. Hence my issues when removing the relay nothing changed. Duh!!!
Anyhow.
I traced the wire back from the fuse box and it’s going to the VRS remote system for the winch.
Pulled the wiring through, got to the remote signal box, turned it upside down and I heard something lose inside the box. Like a stone was rattling around in it. I opened it up and a little eleccy thing dropped out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/18.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/19.jpg

I’m
Going to assume for now this is the root of the evil. I’ll order another control box and hope it changes things.
Then onto the next thing. Fix the f*%king wiring. Lol
It’s a mess!


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[jay see]

Sounds like a senior's moment with the #4 stuff [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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[mudski]

Sounds like a senior's moment with the #4 stuff [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

Definitely is mate.

BTW, those sway bar links we spoke about. Won't work for me, on the Patrol a Part website it says if you have drop boxes they won't work. so no go for me.

[BrazilianY60]

That blue thing that dropped is a resistor.

[mudnut]

Hmm seems my forgetting somethings is biting me in the ass.
Fuse 4 in my fuse block is no longer linked to relay 4 in the relay block. I hadn’t changed the labelling from when I worked on it last. Hence my issues when removing the relay nothing changed. Duh!!!
Anyhow.
I traced the wire back from the fuse box and it’s going to the VRS remote system for the winch.
Pulled the wiring through, got to the remote signal box, turned it upside down and I heard something lose inside the box. Like a stone was rattling around in it. I opened it up and a little eleccy thing dropped out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/18.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/19.jpg

I’m
Going to assume for now this is the root of the evil. I’ll order another control box and hope it changes things.
Then onto the next thing. Fix the f*%king wiring. Lol
It’s a mess!


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Good find, Mudski. Electricity is a myth. Everything runs on magic smoke, and it looks like the smoke has escaped from the system.

[mudski]

Good find, Mudski. Electricity is a myth. Everything runs on magic smoke, and it looks like the smoke has escaped from the system.

Thanks to you mate. If you never mentioned about chasing a parasitic draw earlier on I would have just replaced the battery assuming it was a dud.

Also Im not sure how, but the battery was drained to 1V. I managed to get the smart charger to do a recond charge, took over 24hours to do so, I left the battery for another 24hours, the voltage dropped to 12.8v, I did a load test and it passed with flying colours. I serious thought I have killed this battery.

I do hope what i found is the cause.

I've also order a new fuse block to replace the shitty block i have with the blade terminals, to a screw terminal type. Much betterer!
87219
I'll also re label them all so they are right! Lol

Then onto finding a suitable replacement to the crap rose joint style sway bar links. I'm sick of greasing them after everytime i take the patrol on dirt, and they flog out so quickly too.

Oh and I might remove the starter and clean the solenoid up too. Might. Thats a big pain in the ass off a job...

[PeeBee]

Mark, if you have not already purchased that fuse block, have a look at blue seas - they sell units with LED indicators of a blown fuse and are great - instant location of the blown circuit. They work with the wire or resettable fuses as well. If not Blue Seas there are other knock off brands on ebay.

[mudski]

Mark, if you have not already purchased that fuse block, have a look at blue seas - they sell units with LED indicators of a blown fuse and are great - instant location of the blown circuit. They work with the wire or resettable fuses as well. If not Blue Seas there are other knock off brands on ebay.

Thats the brand I have bought Phill. Not buying Chinese knockoff again. Nothing but shit they are. Lesson learned. You get what you pay for...

[PeeBee]

Thats the brand I have bought Phill. Not buying Chinese knockoff again. Nothing but shit they are. Lesson learned. You get what you pay for...

Did you buy the model with the blown fuse indictor LED?

[mudski]

Did you buy the model with the blown fuse indictor LED?

It was never mentioned it had that from where I bought it. If it does, yay for me, if not, meh! The shape of the housing is more what I wanted, long and narrow.

[mudski]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/21.jpg
Success!!!

Now to wait for the fuse box to arrive, fix that shiz up then sort the sway bar links.


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[mudski]

mudnut
Your a eleccy nut mate. All is wrong with old unit mate is the resistor. I’m throwing this out. Do you want it? I’m happy to post it to you mate. If you fix it, win! Wireless winch controls for the price of a resistor.
If not I’ll bin it. Just seems so little that’s broke. Just beyond my shaky hands with a soldering iron.


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[mudnut]

That resister is worth 10 cents. Have go at fixing it and keep it as a spare.

[mudski]

That resister is worth 10 cents. Have go at fixing it and keep it as a spare.

Yeah I thought about it, but i know I'll probably never get around to it.

[mudski]

So I took the battery cell caps off last week to check the cell levels on the deep cycle aux battery, put it on a float charge.
On Saturday I decided to take the Patrol for a spin, checked everything under the bonnet for tools etc. Nope nothing, closed the bonnet and took off.
I came home and parked it back in the garage, put the bonnet up and instantly saw I had left the caps off the battery! Wtf! Somehow all but two caps were still sitting on the battery. But now I am missing two.
Trying to work out what threat they are I finally worked out they are m14 x 1.25.
How did you work that out you say? Like this!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/08/29.jpg
They fit perfectly. Now to find some plastic plugs with the same thread.


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[mudski]

I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.


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[jay see]

I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI thought the same and also came up with the same result..

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[mudski]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/10/51.jpg
Gave the old GUrl a quick scrub before getting her dirty over a 4 day Fecking weekend starting this Friday at Enoch’s point on the Big River. Cannot fecking wait!


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[BrazilianY60]

Looking mint!

[mudski]

Looking mint!

Thanks. Still not a bad duco after 22 years. I have found a little spot of rust, quite bad but small, hiding behind the snorkel, which would be snorkel and windscreen out job. Not really wanting to do that though.

[mudski]

So after piss farting around using and putting up with the shitty rose joints on the extended sway bar links, that wear out almost instantly and require to be greased every time you hit the dirt, plus the grey area over their legality, I am making my own. Lol
Got some heavy steel tubing, cut to the length I need, drilled and tapped one end to M10x1.25 to hold onto a mini tie rod.
I just need to figure out whether to use 8.8 grade threaded rod for the top end or go the next tensile strength up. 10.2 I think it is.
10.2 is obviously stronger but has less give than 8.8, so it could potentially snap if flexed too much, but that’s what the mounting rubbers are for, to allow the rod to pivot in the mounting hole.
I’ll do a test run on the fronts. Then do the rears next if these work out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/11/30.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231127/2199ca304ec0fb190dfa2e066f1601e8.jpg


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[mudski]

Finally got around to finishing one link. I used 10.9 m10x1.5 all thread in the top.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/11.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/12.jpg


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[mudski]

So I have a weeks grace from hell, AKA work, I’m not going anywhere so I thought I’d pull the Patrol in the garage and do some maintenance and some preventative maintenance. A can of worms I have opened….
There more on this list also.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231229/ac43c2dc3fba68ada685db6984650901.jpg

I removed the rear tail shaft as the yoke on the gearbox is worn out.
The cup on the uni can be inserted by hand, no force needed at all. Not good.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231229/a351faa4fd1e708d30abb8e280accd26.jpg
Problem here. Nissan don’t sell this part, nor does Hardy Spicer and Drivetech, and I’m not keen on forking out a small fortune for a complete second half tail shaft.
So not sure what to do here. I’ll wait until I’m back at work and send the old one off to Hardy Spicer to see if they can match it up.



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[mudski]

Tie rod and drag link end boots need to be replaced.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/27.jpg


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[mudski]

And I’ve had a small issue for a while where I couldn’t pump up the tyres. For some reason any air chuck I used would not pump air into them.
Long story short Darren last year suggested maybe wind out the valves a little. This worked. So every time I had to put air in the tyres I had to loosen the inserts a little.
So I was guessing the seal on the valve insert was worn out from using a tyre deflator many times over.
So I finally changed them out. One insert was actually broken.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/30.jpg

So we’ll see if new inserts help.


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[mudski]

The Patrol is now up on blocks…
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/31.jpg

Rear tail shaft out, front will be out tomorrow, tie rod off, drag link off and the sway bar links removed.

It seems everything I touch needs to be replaced.


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[jay see]

So it's going to handle as good as it looks once you're done with it...

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[mudski]

So it's going to handle as good as it looks once you're done with it...

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Yeah it is due for new shocks soon I reckon but I’ll have to save a bit for them.


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[mudski]

Hmm.
Front tail shaft has seen better days. The uni’s feel fine, considering they have never been changed, but the slip joint has a lot of play in it. Plus the grease boot is non existent.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2023/12/77.jpg


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[mudski]

Swapped out the steel water return line for the turbo to silicone hose with a thermal shield.
The steel line was running within millimeters of the exhaust manifold therefore pumping screaming hot water back into the stat housing.
So the new line is rerouted away from the exhaust manifold.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/03/7.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/03/8.jpg


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[mudski]

I’ve also changed the radiator cap from a .8 bar cap to a 1.1 bar cap.
Reason behind this is these TD’s like to run a wee bit warm. Having a higher pressure in the cooling system raises ;) the boiling point so we’ll see how it goes.

Last trip was good, sat mostly on 90-95c, but I was travelling in convoy with my daughter who was towing a horse float, so we were only doing around 90kph.
On the way home however, I was sitting between 100-120kph and the water temps sat at 105-110c. That was at 40plus degree outside temps.
Still under factory spec and I know even at 110c the water won’t be at boiling point due to being pressurised. 118c is boiling point but I want to give the TD a bit more wiggle room with the temps.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/03/9.jpg


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[Brissieboy]

<snip> Having a higher pressure in the cooling system lowers the boiling point so we’ll see how it goes. <snip>

Higher pressure RAISES the boiling point.

[mudski]

Higher pressure RAISES the boiling point.

Yep, had a brain fart moment. RAISES is what i actually meant....

[mudski]

So I decided to dump the Propylene glycol coolant I put in and go back to ethylene glycol.

I did the usual remove the bung from the radiator flush it out, I also took the heater hose off the fitting on top of the engine and flush through there as well.

Whilst flushing it out coolant was coming out of the stat housing port where the heater hose connects to and was pouring onto the alternator before dropping to the ground.

Thought nothing of it, when I was done I hosed the entire area out.

I then noticed to what I thought it was smoke coming from the alternator. I could hear a faint sizzling sound also. The smoke had no odour apart from the slightest smell of coolant, but that could have been remnants of the washed off coolant. The smoke to me actually looked like vapour though.

Not sure on what was going on I disconnected the battery and all was good. Reconnecting the battery it came back.

So I started the Patrol up and ran it for a good ten minutes. As usual, upon start up for the first few minutes the alternator charged at 12v, then it kicks in and charges per normal, not sure why but it’s always done this.
I turned off the motor and all is good. No sizzling sound, no smoke/ vapour.
My thought is maybe a chemical reaction from the coolant and components inside the alternator???? But when 12v is cut off nothing happened. So maybe not.
If I knew how to upload a video on YouTube I would but tried to work that out and my head just hurt. lol

Any suggestions on what had just happened? More so. Why?

Cheers


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[TPC]

Coolant is very bad for anything electrical, I would pull the alternator out and give it a thorough clean, hit it with pressure cleaner.

[jay see]

So I decided to dump the Propylene glycol coolant I put in and go back to ethylene glycol.

I did the usual remove the bung from the radiator flush it out, I also took the heater hose off the fitting on top of the engine and flush through there as well.

Whilst flushing it out coolant was coming out of the stat housing port where the heater hose connects to and was pouring onto the alternator before dropping to the ground.

Thought nothing of it, when I was done I hosed the entire area out.

I then noticed to what I thought it was smoke coming from the alternator. I could hear a faint sizzling sound also. The smoke had no odour apart from the slightest smell of coolant, but that could have been remnants of the washed off coolant. The smoke to me actually looked like vapour though.

Not sure on what was going on I disconnected the battery and all was good. Reconnecting the battery it came back.

So I started the Patrol up and ran it for a good ten minutes. As usual, upon start up for the first few minutes the alternator charged at 12v, then it kicks in and charges per normal, not sure why but it’s always done this.
I turned off the motor and all is good. No sizzling sound, no smoke/ vapour.
My thought is maybe a chemical reaction from the coolant and components inside the alternator???? But when 12v is cut off nothing happened. So maybe not.
If I knew how to upload a video on YouTube I would but tried to work that out and my head just hurt. lol

Any suggestions on what had just happened? More so. Why?

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCan't help on your issues, but go to your video select share and pick YouTube.

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[mudski]

Can't help on your issues, but go to your video select share and pick YouTube.

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Stuffed if I know. That option for YT I don't have on my phone.

[mudski]

I think I worked out the YouTubey thing

https://youtu.be/DwyVrEy3loI?feature=shared


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[mudski]

Coolant is very bad for anything electrical, I would pull the alternator out and give it a thorough clean, hit it with pressure cleaner.

Yeah I drowned the thing with hose. Ran the engine for a good 10 minutes and no vaping after that. It seems to be charging too. Hopefully all is good. I left the battery disconnected last night though just in case.


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[mudski]

So I have decided to make my own dual Jerry can holder for the rear bar. But. Have the holder running front to back rather than the usual left to right.
This way the swing away bar is not too long and besides it will hit my spare wheel carrier anyway.

I’m not the best welder so lots of welding and grinding going on. lol.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240818/3243e7d4332b0108d8782ed8fea50339.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240818/14347915c564a635f4346f5df651c28b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240818/6724dff246782d2e49a4d9516d573bd5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240818/c4816791596e43771042ee05aec15d80.jpg

So making the carrier this way does present some issues.
With 40L of fluid hanging off this bar.the holders will want to pull away from the bar. So there will be some bracing going on to strengthen it all up.

This as far as I have gone today with it…

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[Bidja]

Maybe thinking of a couple of angled RHS stays (L/R), running from near the top AFT sector of jerry carrier boxes down to the swing arm and even distributing the load along the back of boxes with RHS or angle to secure the stays to as well. Lot hanging out back.

[PeeBee]

Maybe thinking of a couple of angled RHS stays (L/R), running from near the top AFT sector of jerry carrier boxes down to the swing arm and even distributing the load along the back of boxes with RHS or angle to secure the stays to as well. Lot hanging out back.
100% agree, those boxes are going to bend within 50m of filling with the thin steel sheet and 40kgs hanging off them. I understand why you have gone this way however the loads into the arm and then the bearing are far greater than a flatter side by side config. Your latch is going to take a pounding if you dont have some sort of load bearing guide assy to take the vertical and twisting load - you dont want the catch to do this. I would be conceptually mimicking a Kaymar style to be honest ( support guide bracket to take the vertical and to line up the carrier with the clamp.), but even then they rarely if ever built swing aways with the jerry cans in that config, and their bearing system is a bush rather than a roller bearing, which is set up for higher compressive loads.

[mudski]

100% agree, those boxes are going to bend within 50m of filling with the thin steel sheet and 40kgs hanging off them. I understand why you have gone this way however the loads into the arm and then the bearing are far greater than a flatter side by side config. Your latch is going to take a pounding if you dont have some sort of load bearing guide assy to take the vertical and twisting load - you dont want the catch to do this. I would be conceptually mimicking a Kaymar style to be honest ( support guide bracket to take the vertical and to line up the carrier with the clamp.), but even then they rarely if ever built swing aways with the jerry cans in that config, and their bearing system is a bush rather than a roller bearing, which is set up for higher compressive loads.

Yep. Bracing the back was always on the plans. How? I have not yet decided. I will lower where the holders are welded to the swing away, as much as i can so there less on top.

Just thinking if using T section steel will be better for vertical support over using say 3mm x 25mm square tube, or even 25x50mm RHS.

Maybe to have a length of 25x50 RHS running left to right across the top of both holders, as John suggested, then run a dead vertical brace from that down to the swing away and also from the top, on a angle down to the back of the swing away. Not sure yet.

If all this doesn't work its no big deal, i enjoy working with steel so I'll just start again if i need too.

Just had a thought.

If I were to make the rear bracing similar to the bracing design for the spare wheel carrier, which takes a similar if not heavier load it should work.
88224

[mudski]

I finally finished the dual carrier. I don’t think I’ll have issues. The rear bracing is wee heavy but we’ll see in two weeks when I head up to QLD then across into Innamincka and then south.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240908/8e5b76986576a4a5cee16aca8863ba6a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240908/bc9b9d6788d42d8bf636f9227cdf7763.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240908/058273637dcbadb3094fd911e1a66165.jpg

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[10G]

Looks great mate, good use of the space.

Water or fuel? Or anything?

[Bidja]

Rear bracing looks strong as, see how the boxes can handle the flex _ user trial coming up.

[mudski]

Looks great mate, good use of the space.

Water or fuel? Or anything?

Yeah im happy with the outcome. Will be used for water mainly, one for drinking and one for washing i guess.

[mudski]

Rear bracing looks strong as, see how the boxes can handle the flex _ user trial coming up.

Yes im a bit nervous for the test to be honest but, i enjoyed mucking around an making it. So if it fails the test. No big deal to me. I'll just think of something else to make. Or how to make it again but better.

[mudski]

Is it just me? Before any trip I decide to strip the Patrol down and do work to it!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240910/771c388b30fea2c68890e0757b0c3cc4.jpg

I have a Super bright light bar from LedLightco, and my existing wiring for the old light bar needs to be upgraded from 4mm to 6mm.
Plus I ordered another rear light from them as well to replace me old Chyna one that’s crap.


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[mudski]

Put some new H4’s in. Hopefully better than the candles I had burning before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240910/33a9791ba5368591b948a3b5decad15e.jpg


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[Cremulator]

Put some new H4’s in. Hopefully better than the candles I had burning before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240910/33a9791ba5368591b948a3b5decad15e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDon't mess about. Get some Stedi LED Copperheads. Best upgrade I did to my headlights! [emoji108]
They plug straight in, no modifications.

[BrazilianY60]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240910/771c388b30fea2c68890e0757b0c3cc4.jpg

How interesting! My GU has a small length of rubber hose stuck between the rearview mirror and the windshield. I thought it was some bush fix done by the previous owner, possibly to keep it from rattling, so I left it alone. On this picture, yours seems to have it as well. Maybe Nissan made that bush fix themselves straight from Japan?

:animierte-sm

[mudski]

Don't mess about. Get some Stedi LED Copperheads. Best upgrade I did to my headlights! [emoji108]
They plug straight in, no modifications.

I thought about that but i am concerned about them being way to bright for oncoming traffic.

Year ago i had custom made some headlights with projector beams in them with LED globes They were amazing at night, but were illegal and at the time i was getting the Patrol engineered, so i removed them and sold them. In hindsight i probably should have just kept them.

[mudski]

How interesting! My GU has a small length of rubber hose stuck between the rearview mirror and the windshield. I thought it was some bush fix done by the previous owner, possibly to keep it from rattling, so I left it alone. On this picture, yours seems to have it as well. Maybe Nissan made that bush fix themselves straight from Japan?

:animierte-sm

Uhm... Where is this rubber hose?

[Cremulator]

I thought about that but i am concerned about them being way to bright for oncoming traffic.


I had the same concerns, but I have been running them for two years now and not one on coming car has flashed me.
They give you Euro-car-like clear white light. Much safer.

[PeeBee]

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

[BrazilianY60]

Uhm... Where is this rubber hose?

88294

88295

[BrazilianY60]

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

How does this sealed inserts look like?

[mudski]

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

Yes, but unfortunately there is no ADR approved HID or LED globes for the GU Patrols. I may still go down the LED path, but I will wait to see how these new globes go first.

[PeeBee]

Gottcha, yes the HID are not approved globes full stop, but the 7" round inserts are. PLOD may try to disagree but they are stamped on the light and VASS approved.

[mudski]

Gottcha, yes the HID are not approved globes full stop, but the 7" round inserts are. PLOD may try to disagree but they are stamped on the light and VASS approved.

Yep. Good for GQ owners. Us GU owners either have to run the gauntlet with illegal HIDs or LEDs, or stick with candles.


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[mudski]

How does this sealed inserts look like?

Just a few of what is available...
https://view.publitas.com/bwi/narva-catalogue-2019-20/page/40-41
https://view.publitas.com/bwi/narva-catalogue-2019-20/page/38-39

[mudski]

Well after maybe 10 years I reconnected the water in fuel sensor. The wires busted so long ago I just left it, out of sight out of mind.

All fixed!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/5cd3d8e7780bdaf03582c5254bc215e3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/fc98a7f415d089a84ae0c1a37efea2a8.jpg



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[mudski]

So I bought a new reverse light from Paul Lights just fitted it and Ho Lee Chit. Bright!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/009a1de7dc83b2c8bcfaab5af623db38.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/2e83ebb1cc5f67d19c6486d74626ae07.jpg

And that’s out of my garage!


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[mudski]

PeeBee
Who did your rear chop? Since I have come to the reality that that a Y62 is out of the question. I figured I might make this Patrol into a full on tourer possibly, depending on costs. So the research will start from now I guess.
Plus I want to change out the seats too also. But that’s another story…


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[mudski]

Out with the old light bar….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/1311b55c8e7a0e1efdac71ad0d6e1f2e.jpg

In with the new.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/5d228c023f0a0d3b2cd5b8f93c9b6d77.jpg

I then replaced the original wiper heads with new ones. The old were a bit lose and didn’t really do much when your travelling at 100kph, the just skipped over the windscreen.
These are supposed to stop that issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/5cb313bc45d11abc8b3f69f45f843aa9.jpg


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[mudski]

So now I have just discovered one of my driving lights is dead. I thought it was a connection issue but after wiring it direct to 12v and nothing but a few flickering led’s, it’s time for new driving light also. Not what I need right now but…


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[mudski]

Two days from going away. I have to work tomorrow and Tuesday. Now the aux battery is cooked.
Other than size. Is there any reason why I can’t use this battery?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240915/ef0d55749ae0935c95a28d58cb6d8323.jpg

Nevermind. This battery is 20mm too long. Just won’t fit.

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[Plasnart]

Out with the old light bar….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/1311b55c8e7a0e1efdac71ad0d6e1f2e.jpg

In with the new.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/5d228c023f0a0d3b2cd5b8f93c9b6d77.jpg

I then replaced the original wiper heads with new ones. The old were a bit lose and didn’t really do much when your travelling at 100kph, the just skipped over the windscreen.
These are supposed to stop that issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240914/5cb313bc45d11abc8b3f69f45f843aa9.jpg


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I found this on YouTube and worked a treat for my skipping rear wiper on the territory. Not saying this is your cause but was enlightening to me.

https://youtu.be/w0I-obFmADE?si=hTXZgEqKoIIpsgUW

Also instead of replacing whole wiper heads that are supposedly sealed units, they are easily disassembled and blades replaced with single blades from the auto store. Recently paid 2 x $17 for good blades rather than 2 x $34 for replacement wiper heads.

[Rossco]

PeeBee
Who did your rear chop? Since I have come to the reality that that a Y62 is out of the question. I figured I might make this Patrol into a full on tourer possibly, depending on costs. So the research will start from now I guess.
Plus I want to change out the seats too also. But that’s another story…


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLooking good Markie, Phils is a CAM Fabrications kit with an at home install then engineered. . I know DMW do chops in Queensland along with GVM upgrades and chassis extension aswell, not sure who does them in Vic but must be someone out there. . . Yeah it is my dream someday to have a TD GU dual cab tourer would be a bloody wicked car I reckon. . Still never sell the GQ but. .[emoji106][emoji106]

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[Plasnart]

Looking good Markie, Phils is a CAM Fabrications kit with an at home install then engineered. . I know DMW do chops in Queensland along with GVM upgrades and chassis extension aswell, not sure who does them in Vic but must be someone out there. . . Yeah it is my dream someday to have a TD GU dual cab tourer would be a bloody wicked car I reckon. . Still never sell the GQ but. .[emoji106][emoji106]

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I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

[PeeBee]

I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

Couple of comments. If you do this make sure its a body on job, body off is a mass of complication and heartache. Also the can will be heavier as you have to factor in the frame of the tray, tray and the pod, then all the crap that gets added above the wagon volume. Make sure you do a PSR chassis stiffening kit and I did both the spring tower braces and the cross spring tower braces for total certainty. Watch the overall length of the pod and tray - there is a formula, think its .69 x the wheelbase or something - equates to 1900 from memory on the GQ - additional overhung weight, poorer turning clearances, potential for overloading even worse - I went 1650 with a 1600 pod. Rear suspension will probably need a birthday, and finally mine rides a bit like a boat, think its a combination of the additional weight and the extra height and wind area. I added a 20,000lb hyd winch on the back and that winch mount weight is significant. So weight is your killer. Regards engineering, if in VIC, VASS will want to re-engineer everything on the car, anything and everything gets picked on. I would budget 5K for VASS alone. There are only a handful of VASS inspectors who do body chops and the one I dealt with was a pratt. Lastly you have the electrical complications of getting power into the pod and if you want it removable another issue - all sounds great doing a chop, if I was to do it again I would buy one done already engineered and the 100 problems resolved, unless you want to spend a lot of time and money sorting it all out.

This post has scratched a few scabs. Mounting of rear wheels on the pod sound and look great but I was unable to find a rear pod with adequate bracing for the longer term support of one wheel and jerry cans or two wheels - its aluminium structure, weak and prone to fatigue. I added a mild steel frame inside the pod and it was a lot of work to configure and pick up the load points.

Lastly good luck if you can find a painter to colour match the pod if you want to go that way unless you buy it already done. I went thru 5 painters before finding one. Also, powder coating can be a hit and miss affair on aluminium, so a proper etch primer and adequate top coats is the go. I elected to go with acrylic instead of two pack or enamel due to it being painted in a shed without an oven and in hindsight it was a mistake. The paint is very very thin and easy to scratch, but also easy to repair.

[mudski]

I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

So I have more room.. Theres is not a lot of room in the back of the wagon plus cooking out the back of it with the barn doors open is a pain in the ass. A properly decked out pod, that is dust proof, would be ideal for my needs. I've been watching plenty of YT vids and taking mental notes of setups.
Something i'd love to do in the future, whether it happens or when it happens I don;t know, but i want to look into it and get some costs and ideas.

[mudski]

So new driving lights went on the old bus as I killed one of the lights that were in there. Stupid me. Fixing up some wiring, I had the wires exposed, phone rings, I’m chatting away, while chatting I went back to work on the car, I flick on the headlights, turn the high beams on and bang goes a driving light. One of exposed wires was touching a spanner, which was touching something else and shorted it out. I took apart the light and the PCB is cooked.

So new lights went on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240916/47ec793ee26e4162a407fd0473847d19.jpg

That was Saturday.


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[mudski]

Then Sunday, I take the Patrol out to get fuel, I get back, get out of the car and I have this awful smell coming from the front of the car. I’d never smelt anything like it. It was strong and pungent.
After leaving it sit for a while the smell went. I take it out for another drive. The smell is back.

Well I think I found it. A long time ago two of the vent caps on the battery were lose and they rattled out. Not being able to find replacement caps, even the maker of the battery was not interested in helping, I had no choice but the seal them up. Which I did. Worked perfectly for well over 18 months until now. The acid had eaten through my home made caps and I think, this is where the smell is coming from. Both cells are very dry also upon checking.

So a new deep cycle battery is going in.


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[mudski]

I’m happy with the rear carrier I made too.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240916/c62923f3cae40733118c4f10aef857c2.jpg


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[jay see]

Put some new H4’s in. Hopefully better than the candles I had burning before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240910/33a9791ba5368591b948a3b5decad15e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat's the verdict on these mate, I'm looking at getting something better for the clubsport..

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[Hodge]

What's the verdict on these mate, I'm looking at getting something better for the clubsport..

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These are the ones I've been using since I've owned Patrols (11 years?). Can rate them highly for vision and very long lasting too.

https://www.narva.com.au/products/48472BL2/h4-12v-60-55w-intense-plus-30-halogen-headlight-globes--bl2-

[Cremulator]

My recommendation, after using higher wattage bulbs in the GU – go straight to Stedi copperhead LED bulbs. You will not regret it.

[mudski]

So as of late the kettle has been boiling faster than usual.
So I’ve removed the fan, hub, water pump, radiator, thermostat fans and power steering cooler, and all the old foam seals. Time for a big clean out and overhaul.
There’s a lot going on in front of the radiator.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241201/b850e64158216875d41be8e508147d06.jpg


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[mudski]

Everything’s out. The JPC high flow water pump is finally back in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241201/cfbbf5a88d7b3a3b9155552d66ebe381.jpg

Both thermo fans are off and I pressure washed the a/c condenser out. I washed it from the engine side to the outside. The roller door the Patrol was parked I. Front of copped a few bug from the condenser.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241201/f2f2a70ad0ed4b973316ca4b0b5b1f84.jpg


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[mudski]

Wire band hose clamps! Why oh why!?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241201/3438ca9490e4bde5771a2c16ec20fefe.jpg


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[mudski]

The parasitic current draw is back! I go to start the Patrol yesterday after being parked for 2 weeks and the battery is completely dead. The hunt is back on.

[mudski]

God! Time to start pulling fuses!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241210/93c099105e68fc960f57e63cfdab947f.jpg


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[PeeBee]

Mark, this device might be a bit less cumbersome, I bought a cheapie like this and a more expensive unit - I also have some leaks and plan to dive into root cause as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433

The more expensive unit I sourced from the UK has a higher amp value, circa 80amp from memory but this parasitic load is going to be easility handled by this cheper unit provided it has the resolution I guess

[mudski]

Mark, this device might be a bit less cumbersome, I bought a cheapie like this and a more expensive unit - I also have some leaks and plan to dive into root cause as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433

The more expensive unit I sourced from the UK has a higher amp value, circa 80amp from memory but this parasitic load is going to be easility handled by this cheper unit provided it has the resolution I guess

Yep I have one on the way to me. Hopefully soon.
So I’ve pulled every fuse out I have and it’s still there.
I did unplug the two wire plug from the alternator and nothing changed but I think I have to take the main wire from the back off it to properly check. Which is a pain to do as my intake pipe sits right over the top of it. But I must do it.


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[PeeBee]

Could be a pile of very small loads adding up and not detectable by the meter? I have a 0.1amp parasitic load in the POD - not going to chase that as it could be from a number of electronic devices that are simply sipping the power to keep background circuits alive.

[mudnut]

I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.

[mudski]

I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.

Hi Craig.

I totally disconnected the alternator and had no change at all.
So I do have another battery that sits on a float charge from a 10amp solar panel via a controller.
I rigged this up to the Patrol in the same fashion as if it were the main battery.
Strange thing happened.
With the original battery being tested. The neg lead disconnected and the DMM probes to the neg of the battery and the neg lead to the car, I open the door to activate the interior light, nothing happens. No light comes on. But the DMM readings will fluctuate from .10a up to nearly 1amp.

hook up to the spare battery, the dmm readings drop to zero and when I open the door, the light comes on and I get a reading of .12amp on the DMM.

I’m not expert but this tells me it’s the battery.

Tonight i will disconnect the starter and see what happens.

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[mudnut]

Maybe a cell has failed or the battery has been damaged by being discharged too low. Very rarely, but batteries can have internal current draw, too.

[mudski]

New battery on the way today. Hopefully no more issues.

[mudski]

So the old barn door trims were looking a bit second hand so I decided to make my own.
Came up pretty good I think.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250421/1c59826297760dbca97ef7a4112598fc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250421/ddc51afee224e521b792b3a32cabb538.jpg


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[mudski]

Next was to make up a new bracket to hold the Rear Anderson plugs and a few 12v lecky bits for the rear as previously it was all zip tied up to the cargo barrier.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250421/01aea207ae3c3bf503732fb7e44472bd.jpg

It took a while to make as I had to think up and make the bracketry to hold it all in.
I was very impressed with my work. Until I folded the rear seat back into position. The bloody seat just leans against the reset button on the circuit breaker!!!! So out it all came for version 2.0 to be made.


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