Hodge's new 4.2

[jay see]

Yeah i think i might have to get some thin spacers for the bottom. Im sure half my noise issues is from the springs.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Pretty sure that my factory ones were in poor condition when I changed over my suspension (didn't have new ones to throw in). What's the noise your getting Mark? I've got a squeak as the body rolls around corners. Will like to do top and bottom.

[Hodge]

Happy to report colder morning gear changes and the gear chatter much better after the oil change .
As Mat said, who knows whether this oil was ever replaced.
Todays job, to rip the auto hub mechanism out. So I can use same oils in transfer and front diff.
Front diff and Transfer case oils as well as breathers for the gearbox and x-fer.

[threedogs]

This shop is where I brought my 15mm bottom spacer from , as I couldn't find any
10mm numbers they even sell the rubber ones for the top, You'll all be familiar with
the shop.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121572093017?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131040307417?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I may have 2 x 15mm for sale, is there any difference between the front and rear coils??

[Hodge]

This shop is where I brought my 15mm bottom spacer from , as I couldn't find any
10mm numbers they even sell the rubber ones for the top, You'll all be familiar with
the shop.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121572093017?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131040307417?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I may have 2 x 15mm for sale, is there any difference between the front and rear coils??
The rears are larger in diameter are they not ?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

sounds right,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121209406463?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[MudRunnerTD]

Around $6us plus postage....

Really!! I think I was quoted something like $30 each or something. I wanted 4 and got some rubber for under $10 to make a set.

Those ARB ones look the goods and TDs links above are good too. Rubber worked fine though.

[nissannewby]

Yeah patrolapart list them for 30ea

[threedogs]

The ones I have are 170mm od and 115 id and going by
my link above that would mean I have 2 sets of front 15mm spacers,
Looks like I need some rear 15mm and some rubber for the top all around

@ BA I have 2 x 15mm poly urethene ones here 170mm od and 115mm ID

I'm thinking to do this properly is to use these poly urethene plates on the
base and some rubber ones on the top?.

EDIT do they just sit there or do you cable tie them to the coil???

[Hodge]

She's acting funny since yesterday when turning her off. Usually it's 1 second or so and shes off. Now when I turn the key she slowly comes to a stop over 3-4 seconds with some coughing and splattering. What gives??

Off to JPC tomorrow for cooling system to get gutted and high flow pump fitted.

[lucus30]

She's acting funny since yesterday when turning her off. Usually it's 1 second or so and shes off. Now when I turn the key she slowly comes to a stop over 3-4 seconds with some coughing and splattering. What gives??

Off to JPC tomorrow for cooling system to get gutted and high flow pump fitted.

I've seen this on faceache before. I believe they said it was a very common issue and that its the fuel stop solenoid on your pump.
Apparently nothing to worry about

[BigRAWesty]

Yep.. fuel shut off solinode..
Get it replaced or it will affect start up to....

[nissannewby]

Not an easy task on a td42ti wagon.

[Hodge]

Not an easy task on a td42ti wagon.

Wonderful. HAs this got anything to do with the box Darren had to attack with a cold chisel a little while ago ? Or is it a separate item all together that works in conjunction with the cut of solenoid?

[nissannewby]

Thats the one. The stop solenoid is inside that box. That box is held on with anti tamper bolts (the style that shear once at tension). Usually when the nats starts to fail it will be starting issues that will occur.

The other thing is the ignition barrels can get a little sticky and cause the same effect.

[Hodge]

Just picked her up, thanks to Mudski for a lift in the beast! Hi flow pump fitted, coolant system fully re-flushed, new hoses, new belts, new thermostat cover bolts.
I mentioned the fuel shut off and the car shutting off longer than usual, but to me it didn't do it this morning, nor did it do it all day in the workshop so, I'll keep an eye out on it in the future.

Just gotta keep tabs on the coolant next few days and maybe top up as it settles.

[Hodge]

Ok so the bloke told me the coolant will settle a bit and to keep checking, and topping up ,next day or so. Just went for a drive and, engine warm and I need to top up as there is minimal coolant in both of these tanks.
Now I get confused about this CRD and 4.2TDi reservoir and overflow tank setup... And maybe a stupid question but where exactly do you top up? The reservoir tank, the radiator or the overflow ??? I forgot to ask him before I left.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66039&stc=1

[threedogs]

Id cable tie those earth cables to the battery tiedown plate.
No idea mine is always about 500mml away from a full radiator

[Sir Roofy]

Ok so the bloke told me the coolant will settle a bit and to keep checking, and topping up ,next day or so. Just went for a drive and, engine warm and I need to top up as there is minimal coolant in both of these tanks.
Now I get confused about this CRD and 4.2TDi reservoir and overflow tank setup... And maybe a stupid question but where exactly do you top up? The reservoir tank, the radiator or the overflow ??? I forgot to ask him before I left.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66039&stc=1

the one with the yellow cap down the side it has min and max

[Winnie]

Fill the radiator to the top and fill the overflow bottle to the acceptable area between Min and Max

[nissannewby]

Ok so the bloke told me the coolant will settle a bit and to keep checking, and topping up ,next day or so. Just went for a drive and, engine warm and I need to top up as there is minimal coolant in both of these tanks.
Now I get confused about this CRD and 4.2TDi reservoir and overflow tank setup... And maybe a stupid question but where exactly do you top up? The reservoir tank, the radiator or the overflow ??? I forgot to ask him before I left.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66039&stc=1

Top radiator up first. Then fill header tank with radiator cap. Only fill the overflow (yellow cap) to the lo mark.

[Hodge]

Top radiator up first. Then fill header tank with radiator cap. Only fill the overflow (yellow cap) to the lo mark.

Gotya. Cheers. I'll do it first thing tomorrow morning when it's fully cold and settled.
Would I need to bleed the system again, after topping up this way ??

[nissannewby]

Gotya. Cheers. I'll do it first thing tomorrow morning when it's fully cold and settled.
Would I need to bleed the system again, after topping up this way ??

No. The system on these is much better than the older styles. Last time I just filled mine then topped up after a drive.

[Hodge]

Also she is now in the 100k club lol.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66041&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Stop driving it now and sell it for 50k.

[Hodge]

Stop driving it now and sell it for 50k.

So after tons of help and countless advice you've given me on it, you're telling me to sell it? lol

Nah, she was nearly gonna go a month or so ago, but no more. Love this car, it's nearly where I want it to be for my ultimate setup. It's where I should have been years ago... No way I'd sell it.

[nissannewby]

Yeah. I cant see you losing money in the next 5 years. Once the y61 stops production in the very near future the td42 wagon will either hold steady or rise.

[Hodge]

Happy to report positive results so far, from my cooling system make over. Prior to full flush and hi-flow pump, what I like to call "settled" temp was 80-84. Obviously rises under load.
First impressions are, that's now sitting 74-76. Unsure what contributed to this change, pump or the fresh coolant.
But one thing I definitely noticed is how fast the temps fall down now after load. Before they temperature slowly made it's way down to "settled" temperature, now, as soon as load is off the engine, they shoot down much much faster than prior.
From memory, Bloodyaussie noticed this as well after his pump was fitted.

[Bacho86]

Good to hear you got it supported and are noticing improvements


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Yeah mines the same. While my temps are higher than yours due to the extra fuel the temps do come down quite quick. Unless ive been hammering it towing the camper and the temps are really up there they tend to go down slow.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Car just started making horrendous whining noise up front like a dry bearing ??? Really hope it's not the water pump bearing they put in... it's not the belts .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Whats the tension like on the belts?

Does it disappear if you turn the ac off?

[mudski]

Car just started making horrendous whining noise up front like a dry bearing ??? Really hope it's not the water pump bearing they put in... it's not the belts .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
A/c idler bearing gets my vote.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Whats the tension like on the belts?

Does it disappear if you turn the ac off?

Ok. Belt tension is fine, nice and firm and hasn't changed since I last felt it... AC was off when noise started. But turning aircon on/off made no difference.
I was just idling at a set of lights, when it slowly began whining it's way up gradually getting louder.
It seems to be coming from the central part of the front of the motor, which is where the pump is... I chanced it and drove it home about 15km's and nothing broke lol. But can't inspect anything now as it's dark and I'd wake up half of the suburb with the noise. People here are pissed off with my straight through exhaust let alone this noise added in the mix....
Will look at it in the morning.

[Hodge]

So got home from work and straight away prepped to start taking belts off and turning stuff trying to find where it's coming from... Chose to turn the car on before hand and, the noise is gone ...... Had a good look at belts and pulleys, nothing out of the ordinary.
Warmed up, took her for a drive, air con on / off.... Nothing!! Drove it like I stole it ! Not even a chime of the the cacophony that it had yesterday evening...
Ironically I'm more p'ed off that it's gone, than when it first happened! I hope it returns, so I can find what it is and sort it out...

[Hodge]

So just done a 120km turnaround trip and noise did not return ...... :icon_bonk:
This is the second time the car's done something like this to me only for a day...First the fuel cut off solenoid played up for one day and never since and now this . TD42's are self healing overnight :P

[BigRAWesty]

So just done a 120km turnaround trip and noise did not return ...... :icon_bonk:
This is the second time the car's done something like this to me only for a day...First the fuel cut off solenoid played up for one day and never since and now this . TD42's are self healing overnight :P
Personally I'd still at least take the belts off and give everything a good wobble and spin to see if there is any movement or notching.
I'd say it was a dry bearing and when it's rested a bit of lube has fallen into place..

[jay see]

The a/c bearing will make the noise weather the a/c is on or not.
I had a noisy one and took the tension off that belt, till I got around to changing the bearing.

[Hodge]

So with the cold weather arriving, the mighty 4.2 gear rattle noise is getting fairly vicious in the morning. I dread driving away from home because it wakes up everybody in the street. Forget the straight through exhaust, this is next level of noise...

Has anybody ever eliminated this ? Mat ? What's your thoughts on this ... Can something be done while the gear box is out when they do the clutch?
Might sound birch but , It's getting really annoying ...

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[nissannewby]

Suspension. Check rear pinion angle. Run a double cardan joint on the rear shaft.

Even going back to standard height will aleviate it.

[Hodge]

OK cheers. So if pinion angles are out , via a quick search , the way to correct is the adjustable upper arms ?

The cars been doing this since I picked it up way before it received a lift kit . Can the pinion angle go off track without touching suspension ?

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[Rocket55]

It's a patrol thing mate, from what I've read there's bugger all that can be done.

People have said they can fix it with new "things" in the gearbox, but have then commented that the noise returns within about 10,000km. On the other forum there is talk about using different oils and/or additives in it which can help, search for "gearbox rollover". Lots of theories, not many consistent results unfortunately.

[Hodge]

It's a patrol thing mate, from what I've read there's bugger all that can be done.

People have said they can fix it with new "things" in the gearbox, but have then commented that the noise returns within about 10,000km. On the other forum there is talk about using different oils and/or additives in it which can help, search for "gearbox rollover". Lots of theories, not many consistent results unfortunately.

Yeah I was aware it was a Patrol thing, and since I bitched about it after I bought this car in the early days I've since learnt to live with it. Although, it somewhat eased up in warmer months. As I mentioned above it's showed it's ugly head with a whole new level in recent cold weather and it's really bad this time... I'm positive it's gone worse since last winter. May have something to do with the oil change in the gear box...

I wonder if I can quieten it down, like i did the engine with the 2T addition lol.

[mudski]

Add some Nulon oil treatment to the gearbox. See if it works. I've been using this stuff for probably 20 years. Definitely helps with a box with some age to it. Certainly wont hurt anyway if it doesn't help.
66532

[Hodge]

Add some Nulon oil treatment to the gearbox. See if it works. I've been using this stuff for probably 20 years. Definitely helps with a box with some age to it. Certainly wont hurt anyway if it doesn't help.
66532
I'll give it a shot Mark. Anything to attempt to remedy this.

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[mudski]

To be honest I dont think you will resolve this. If it is the usual drivetrain chatter, then you just put up with it. Or give it some more berries when you take off. Don't almost stall it, then take off. As with mine the box will chatter like yours if I dont give it a few higher rpm when taking off.

[Hodge]

Would be wrong to call this noise "chatter". Best I would describe it is like having tin cans full of nuts and bolts rolling around inside "somewhere" under the car when certain conditions are met like the car labouring under lower revs...
Been reading a lot about the pinion angle and I think Mat is onto something personally.

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[nissannewby]

I dont just say stuff for the sake of it...

[Hodge]

Intercooler turned up finally. Now to bolt it up !!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/05/146.jpg

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[threedogs]

Do Moreys do a gearbox additive suitable for your problem.
Good to see the IC showed up, no dents ???

[Rocket55]

They do package them well don't they, a few others could learn from them.

Just make sure you cut the hole in the bonnet in the right spot... Don't want to get that wrong.

[BigRAWesty]

They do package them well don't they, a few others could learn from them.

Just make sure you cut the hole in the bonnet in the right spot... Don't want to get that wrong.
Maybe a quick read up on a few threads for the don't do's

[Rocket55]

Seriously, who'd get that wrong :1087: :1087: Maybe I should have read that thread...

[mudski]

They do package them well don't they, a few others could learn from them.

Just make sure you cut the hole in the bonnet in the right spot... Don't want to get that wrong.
Thats why i opted out to cutting my bonnet. I wasnt game enough.

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[Hodge]

Finally had a moment to check out the full contents. Everything checks out, no dents, as far as I can see everything needed is here.
Got to actually see the true size of this cooler by holding in and the scoop and it's pretty big. Scoop as well. Scoop just a tiny bit bigger than the factory scoop.




http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66685&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66686&stc=1

[Rocket55]

Wait till you drive it with the scoop on, half the bonnet and bullbar disappears....

[Winnie]

They are an awesome looking scoop... I love mine.

[gubigfish]

Wait till you drive it with the scoop on, half the bonnet and bullbar disappears....

Takes a bit to get used to the first few times you drive it after fitting the scoop

[Hodge]

Just going through paper work etc... I have to admit the instructions for the scoop install are a tad piss poor.
Most of the instructions and photos are about the intercooler install, which is pretty much a bolt on out of the box and very hard to get wrong. But only 2 bits of paper (template and a poorly written A4 page )on fitting the sccoop.
Some instructions arrived on a DVD in PDF format etc...
The guy told me to call them when fitting to explain, easier to explain over the phone how it works because they do them every day.
I asked them why not make a video of one of their installs and put that on a DVD instead... Would help immensely.
Rocket55
I can now see how easy it was to stuff the scoop cut-out. Not very hard to do.

[Rocket55]

Yep, glad you said that, as I'll run with that too. :smiley_thumbs_up:

Although it should have twigged with me whilst I was cutting out the curved hole, how did everyone else do this with a 4" angle grinder and 1mm thick cutting wheel, but alas it didn't :1087:

After getting used the the view with the scoop on, got to admit, it did feel funny driving the Cruiser with no scoop at all, kept thinking something was missing or wrong...

[mudski]

Yep, glad you said that, as I'll run with that too. :smiley_thumbs_up:

Although it should have twigged with me whilst I was cutting out the curved hole, how did everyone else do this with a 4" angle grinder and 1mm thick cutting wheel, but alas it didn't :1087:

After getting used the the view with the scoop on, got to admit, it did feel funny driving the Cruiser with no scoop at all, kept thinking something was missing or wrong...

Your driving a Cruiser Rocket. Thats Whats Wrong. Lol.

Eric I think you mount the cooler first and ontop of the cooler on the foam you peel this off I think, shut the bonnet, and then this foam makes a mark for where you are supposed to cut. I think thats how it goes. I spoke to a guy and he mounted it all and put grease on the foam then shut the bonnet. This gave him a good line to go by.
Just remember when cutting with a grinder to cover your windscreen and all unprotected paint work. Hot metal flying everywhere and glass/ paint, don't go together well.
And take your hood insulator off too. Lol.

[Hodge]

I've called it i won't be doing it. I got no means , time or premises to do it so to workshop it goes.

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[Winnie]

I chickened out of cutting mine too, only cost a slab of crownies to the panelbeater. He said don't use a grinder, and used an air hacksaw.

[BigRAWesty]

I chickened out of cutting mine too, only cost a slab of crownies to the panelbeater. He said don't use a grinder, and used an air hacksaw.
Less sparks, less finish work.
Either a hacksaw or piston nibblers (drill powered ones) work well and leave a nice clean edge..
Just make sure you use em on a clean flat surface.. the shavings are half moon shaped spikes from hell!!!!

[gubigfish]

I took mine to a panel beaters and they cut the hole, welded a piece into the bonnet, painted the bonnet and scoop and fixed some holes and resprayed my left hand guard for $900 cash

[Rocket55]

I used an air hacksaw for mine, worked a treat .... Twice. :redface:

[Hodge]

mudski Rocket55

How are your fans for the inter cooler wired up? There is not a single bit of info or instructions on how it's meant to be setup.

There is a blue wire in the loom I believe, so is it intended to be constant on with IGN ?
For some reason I believed/though the fan was thermally kicked in. My bad.

[nissannewby]

Dont fit it....

[mudski]

There's ignition power in the wiper motor. Thats the easiest spot to get power.
The blue wire would go here.
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[Hodge]

There's ignition power in the wiper motor. Thats the easiest spot to get power.
The blue wire would go here.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Yeah that's where I already got ign from for my Redarc. So I'm guessing it is meant to be like that always on when ign on ?

[Hodge]

Dont fit it....

Not a fan of a fan Mat ?

[nissannewby]

Not a fan of a fan Mat ?

Not really. If the cooler is as good as they claim you shouldnt need one. $2200 should tell you that lol. Do a small experiment. Grab a 50 degree stick on switch from jay car and wire an led into it so when the fan is switched the led comes on.

[Rocket55]

I in stalled a 50 degree switch on mine, but never actually got around to connecting it, so I guess the worst case scenario. Fan installed but never switches on and my temps are fine.

[Hodge]

Finally put a tube of this in it's been sitting on the table for months... See if it makes anything "smoother".
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66963&stc=1

[Hodge]

Intercooler and scoop fitted. Just picked her up before fresh off the dyno. Quick run shows there is definitely potential. From the drivers point of view will getting some used to the scoop lol.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67003&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67005&stc=1

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67000&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67001&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67002&stc=1

[nissannewby]

How'd she go on the rollers mate?

[Hodge]

How'd she go on the rollers mate?

Was getting really late so she only went on for a very quick run mate, but easily picked up 5-10kW judging only from that. Proper tune is needed for sure.
They had hiccups with a egr pipe completely obstructing the intercooler so cut and chop was needed and bit of fabricating invovled. I believe it is the picture below (I think). I'll go back there tomorrow and talk to the guy who done the work as he wasnt there when I picked her up.

Also below is a photo of part of a intake pipe. You can clearly see the black EGR shit on the inside where in inters the pipe.

Do you think this would pickup a bit of intake noise just with the bigger intercooler? It's definitely got this wind up sound now very evident in the cap, when the turbo spools up. Unsure whether it's intake noise now or a hose is loose or something making a leaking sound.
Lost daylight so, will have to have a better look tomorrow.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67008&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67009&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Those coolers are known to be noisy mate. It will most likely be induction noise.

[nissannewby]

I removed all of the egr rubbish on mine.

[gubigfish]

Was getting really late so she only went on for a very quick run mate, but easily picked up 5-10kW judging only from that. Proper tune is needed for sure.
They had hiccups with a egr pipe completely obstructing the intercooler so cut and chop was needed and bit of fabricating invovled. I believe it is the picture below (I think). I'll go back there tomorrow and talk to the guy who done the work as he wasnt there when I picked her up.

Also below is a photo of part of a intake pipe. You can clearly see the black EGR shit on the inside where in inters the pipe.

Do you think this would pickup a bit of intake noise just with the bigger intercooler? It's definitely got this wind up sound now very evident in the cap, when the turbo spools up. Unsure whether it's intake noise now or a hose is loose or something making a leaking sound.
Lost daylight so, will have to have a better look tomorrow.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67008&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=67009&stc=1

Yeah mines noisy and once you get a proper tune done you wont know yourself. Mine puts a massive smile on my face every time i drive it now. Can't wait to see what the 4" in/out airbox, 18G and 12mm do.

[Hodge]

Yeah mines noisy and once you get a proper tune done you wont know yourself. Mine puts a massive smile on my face every time i drive it now. Can't wait to see what the 4" in/out airbox, 18G and 12mm do.
Good to hear mate. Performance wise think that will be next I think. Intake !
Maybe a little while off though.

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[nissannewby]

Good to hear mate. Performance wise think that will be next I think. Intake !
Maybe a little while off though.

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Did you end up fitting the fan to it?

[Hodge]

Did you end up fitting the fan to it?
Fan came pre fitted so i left it on but not running/wired.

Had a cold morning today circa 6C and I pushed the car a bit once warmed up.
Where i would normally see 300/350C the needle didn't even hit 300. ( my gauge starts at 300c) .
I now see why you meant when you said these are loud. Air rush going through it sounds like a jet taking off when boost goes 10+.

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[mudski]

Looks good Eric.
The induction noise is something you get used to. Although I did see on P4x4 a member has modified the IC mounting tabs on the bracket and put rubber vibration isolators there and the noise is all but gone according to him. I am yet to do this, just another thing on the list....

[Hodge]

Looks good Eric.
The induction noise is something you get used to. Although I did see on P4x4 a member has modified the IC mounting tabs on the bracket and put rubber vibration isolators there and the noise is all but gone according to him. I am yet to do this, just another thing on the list....
I read that post on the other forum. I can't see how this noise is vibration related though.
This is clearly a air swirl type noise from inside the cooler or simply there is a leak.
Brandon reckons it's just that intake noise.
I'll open the passenger window and turn the snorkel head backward and have a listen.
Today I had a better look and there is a few discrepancies.

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[Hodge]

So, done the oil and filter change today. I noticed 2 things...
Going by the volume indicators on my oil pan, she only dumped about 9.5L, 10L max. This includes the remainder of oil, that I drained out of filters after taking them off.
But she swallowed just under 11L, perfectly level with top notch of dip stick.
Providing, my cheapo SCA oil pan is accurate, a liter of oil missing is fairly high isn't it ? I know 4.2's burn a bit of oil, and I did let this service go to 7500km. Last oil check was a few weeks ago and I was sure it was just under the top notch.
Thought I read somewhere that between the notches of the dip stick = about 1L of oil ??

Secondly, the old filters... Even after draining remaining bit of oil out of them, one of the filters (front one from memory), was a fair bit heavier than the other one. I know the second filter is only an alternative route in case the first filters gets a restriction or resistance in some way... This means the heavier filter has caught a bit of shit in it. Is this normal ? Cannot remember if this was the case last time I changed oil and filters. YES I know it's a filter and its meant to catch stuff, but there was a fair bit of weight difference between the 2 today.
Thoughts ?
nissannewby

[nissannewby]

I know a lot of people dont but you should be checking fluids once a week and then include all drive train fluids at least once a month. Pushing the service out can result in oil being burnt depending on the type of driving being done.

I wouldnt worry to much about any of that. I have pulled rear filters off that are clean and havent had oil through them but I have only really seen this when a lot of highway driving has been done. If all is sounding normal and the oil usage doesnt continue then it should be fine. For what its worth my engine doesnt use any oil in 5000km.

[Rocket55]

I wouldn't worry about it to much, I pulled the dip stick on my one just before it left and it was towards the bottom of the marked area so I threw in half a litre and it Brough it up towards the top of the marked area. Based on that 1L from bottom to top would sounds about right. That was at 6,000km.I was lazy and didn't change the oil. I did however give him a set of filters and the best part of 19L of Dello 400 I had left over....

They all use a bit of oil, as long as you're not making oil.

[Hodge]

Thanks fellas. It didn't concern me, was just curious as to what would have caused the difference, but it may be my error of judgement in some way, shape or form. Will keep an eye on it closely, and take note next service.

[Hodge]

I wouldnt worry to much about any of that. I have pulled rear filters off that are clean and havent had oil through them but I have only really seen this when a lot of highway driving has been done. If all is sounding normal and the oil usage doesnt continue then it should be fine. For what its worth my engine doesnt use any oil in 5000km.

Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it. Having 2 filters, whats your take on changing the filters every 10k and oil every 5k ? I recall reading a few people do this. I think even Jonathan mentioned this to me when he helped me change the juice in this thing, the first time.

I'm not so much talking from a cost perspective, just simplifying a oil change, every 5k. Because, like you said, my rear filter was super clean and very light, even after 7500.

[sooty_10]

Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it. Having 2 filters, whats your take on changing the filters every 10k and oil every 5k ? I recall reading a few people do this. I think even Jonathan mentioned this to me when he helped me change the juice in this thing, the first time.

I'm not so much talking from a cost perspective, just simplifying a oil change, every 5k. Because, like you said, my rear filter was super clean and very light, even after 7500.
I used to do my 4.2 every 5k both filter and oil etc. Then I read my owners manual more fully and it actually stated 10k for filters and 5k for oil. So now that's generally how I do it.

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[nissannewby]

Ultimately you should do oil sampling to gauge when your oil needs changing.

Doing it that way is fine but also depends on the driving you are doing between services. If you are doing a lot of short quick drives then I would still do both at 5000km. If you are driving it for an hour at a time then you could do tbe 5/10 method.

Spending some extra dollars on good quality synthetic oil can also extend drain intervals.

[Hodge]

Thanks I'd say most of mine is around town start stop so fikters and oil it is.

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[BigRAWesty]

Finally put a tube of this in it's been sitting on the table for months... See if it makes anything "smoother".
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66963&stc=1
How did this go bloke?? Any difference?

[Hodge]

How did this go bloke?? Any difference?
I "think" I have noticed better gear changes on cold mornings before the gear box warms up.
Other than that, same same.

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[BigRAWesty]

I "think" I have noticed better gear changes on cold mornings before the gear box warms up.
Other than that, same same.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Cool. Well not really but..
Think I may just drop my oil..

[Hodge]

Cool. Well not really but..
Think I may just drop my oil..
Fresh oil alone changed the characteristic of the gear box big time. Much better .
I only added the g70 few weeks after oil change which as I said may have helped cold morning warm ups.


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[threedogs]

Here you go Eric for future services,,,lol
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331624228854?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Hodge]

I've been meaning to ask this for a while but I always forget. After a cold start (I think it's only during cold starts (morning)), after a little while of car being on, maybe a minute or so, maybe more I haven't timed it... I notice the engine revs up ever ever so slightly and the headlight's go a tiny bit brighter. It's like there is load on the electrical side that turns off. Could this be the glow plug's timing out ?
It's been doing this since I got the car. Nothing wrong I think, just curious what it is.

[Rossco]

I've been meaning to ask this for a while but I always forget. After a cold start (I think it's only during cold starts (morning)), after a little while of car being on, maybe a minute or so, maybe more I haven't timed it... I notice the engine revs up ever ever so slightly and the headlight's go a tiny bit brighter. It's like there is load on the electrical side that turns off. Could this be the glow plug's timing out ?
It's been doing this since I got the car. Nothing wrong I think, just curious what it is.
Noticed our work 79 does the same thing. It's usually as your driving off down the road after bout a minute of starting lights suddenly go a bit brighter. Guess it makes sense something to do with glow plugs.

[Hodge]

Ok. There is something happening with my gear box / first gear / clutch ... Unsure which it is.
Cold start / morning, selecting first and taking off, 1st gear selects fine no dramas. Letting the clutch out, car begins rolling forward, and the very moment that happens, the car sort of "nudges" forward a little and it's as if something "slots" in, or falls into place and then we're off without any dramas ... Other gears are fine no issues. Tried also taking off in 2nd and no dramas. Only happens in 1st.
After a few K's of driving / warmed up there seems to be no issues.
100% never happened before.

It began yesterday morning but thought nothing of it, and this morning it was the same story but maybe a bit worse... Will see what it's like tomorrow morning, and will maybe drop the oil tomorrow afternoon and see what happens.

I know / I believe my clutch may be not right (although it lasted a long time without a single issue), but I doubt this would be clutch related ???

[nissannewby]

What rear diff oil are you running? Has it been a bit colder the last few mornings.

[Hodge]

What rear diff oil are you running? Has it been a bit colder the last few mornings.
Nulon 85 140 lsd oil Mat.
To be honest last few mornings have been mild compared to some freezing mornings last week and I haven't had this issue.

I just thought about it and I vaguely remember "maybe" it happening the morning / day after I serviced the motor. A week Ago. But that's got nothing to do with this issue.

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[Hodge]

What rear diff oil are you running? Has it been a bit colder the last few mornings.

So, tonight I got this 1st gear / take of problem even when car was fully warm and driven for good 15km's.
It only happened once, and I attempted to replicate it again and couldn't. So when I originally said that only happens in morning when really cold, well can throw that out the window.

I tried to think of a way to best describe it ... It's like I put it in gear drop the clutch and get moving, and it's as if that very moment all of a sudden the gear is taken out for a millisecond and then slotted back in again....

You suggestion I look at rear diff first Mat? Drop the oil and have a look?

[mudski]

Have you replaced your clutch yet?

[nissannewby]

The heavy oil can sometimes make the diff do weird things. Are these events occurring after turning?

Otherwise the clutch maybe starting to show signs thay its on its way out.

[Hodge]

Have you replaced your clutch yet?
I havent no. [emoji19]
Procrastinated on it but looks like I'll have to bite the bullet. Definitely before Licola.
It survived a few trips and been hammered on dyno twice so it gave me false hope to get more out of it.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

The heavy oil can sometimes make the diff do weird things. Are these events occurring after turning?

Otherwise the clutch maybe starting to show signs thay its on its way out.
In the morning I reverse left out of my driveway and then into 1st gear to go forward and that's when it almost always occurs.
But earlier tonight it happened on straight road at the lights. Only once.

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[nissannewby]

Change to a 80-90 lsd oil. And use a different brand. (Not penrite)

[Hodge]

So this morning / today could not replicate the problem at all.
Tomorrow morning is super cold so will test it then before the car gets parked for 2 weeks.

I've decided it'll go in for a clutch if that don't fix it then I'll look further.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

So this morning / today could not replicate the problem at all.
Tomorrow morning is super cold so will test it then before the car gets parked for 2 weeks.

I've decided it'll go in for a clutch if that don't fix it then I'll look further.

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I dont think its the clutch. Mine does something similar but its my lsd that is doing it. I still have a little 85-140 left so it will be a while before I swap to the lower viscosity.

[Hodge]

Super cold this morning and no issue at all . I dunno. .. it's messing with my head .
Car is now shelved for 2 weeks and then it's in for a clutch and I'll fill it with the oil you suggested.

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[nissannewby]

Super cold this morning and no issue at all . I dunno. .. it's messing with my head .
Car is now shelved for 2 weeks and then it's in for a clutch and I'll fill it with the oil you suggested.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Yeah. Leave the oil for a bit after the new clutch to see if the event still happens. No point changing it if it does turn out to be the clutch.

[Rossco]

You could take out the lsd and put an air locker in to see if that fixes it [emoji6]

[Hodge]

Yeah. Leave the oil for a bit after the new clutch to see if the event still happens. No point changing it if it does turn out to be the clutch.
Yeah definitely I'll see what results the clutch gives and the I'll go from there .

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[Hodge]

You could take out the lsd and put an air locker in to see if that fixes it [emoji6]
I've actually got a front locker with my name on it still waiting for me at ARB which I had to postpone due to clutch now.

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[Hodge]

Suspension. Check rear pinion angle. Run a double cardan joint on the rear shaft.

Even going back to standard height will aleviate it.
Not related to my car, but thought I'd mention it...
Worked with a bloke today who owns a 2002 gu 4.2. He mentioned his awful gear chatter noise began after a 2 inch lift and was pretty bad.
Apparently it is now much better after fixing the pinion angle with some upper arms and flipping the shaft around.
No Idea why the shaft flip, but thumbs up Mat ! Remembered your comment on this when the bloke told me this was his fix.

On a slightly more interesting note this car had just under 640k on clock ! I couldn't believe it. It did have a chassis swap at around 400k.
Highest I've personally ever seen on a Patrol , maybe even on any vehicle.


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[nissannewby]

I dont just say stuff for the sake of it...

And like I said hodge :p

[Hodge]

And like I said hodge :p
[emoji106]


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[Bacho86]

Hodge what kind of tyres are you running on the patrol?

My brother in law just purchased a new ford ranger and was looking at purchasing an aggressive all terrain type, and I recalled you had something similar and we're happy with them? Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Hodge what kind of tyres are you running on the patrol?

My brother in law just purchased a new ford ranger and was looking at purchasing an aggressive all terrain type, and I recalled you had something similar and we're happy with them? Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check out jaysee's new boots,, very noice lol

[Hodge]

@Hodge (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=15680) what kind of tyres are you running on the patrol?

My brother in law just purchased a new ford ranger and was looking at purchasing an aggressive all terrain type, and I recalled you had something similar and we're happy with them? Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got the Mickey Thompsons ATZ P3's mate. They are aggressive for an all terrain and i'm super impressed with them. Noiseless on the road but keeps up in the dirt no dramas. Had them on both my Patrols. Super happy.
They now also have the Mud terrain P3's which are even more aggressive then mine.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68037&stc=1

[Bacho86]

I've got the Mickey Thompsons ATZ P3's mate. They are aggressive for an all terrain and i'm super impressed with them. Noiseless on the road but keeps up in the dirt no dramas. Had them on both my Patrols. Super happy.
They now also have the Mud terrain P3's which are even more aggressive then mine.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68037&stc=1

Thanks Eric, I'll pass along the info. Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

So after long procrastination she will be booked in for a clutch next week or week after.

Few things on my mind though so, a question for the experts, as I really don't know.
nissannewby

While everything is apart, what else should I be looking at getting done ?
I'm reading everything from a main seal, welsh plugs, spigot, to a complete hydraulic slave and master assembly? Would these need to be done when the car has just clicked 100k ?
I read somewhere the rear main seal can be real sensitive, and if one that's in good order is disturbed or replaced, it can leak after a while... more headaches then needed. Sometimes its best to leave it.

Remember a while ago when I thought it was leaking and in the end it wasnt.... lol

Flywheel machined ? Is this something that get's done anyway while it's apart, or do they look at it and then determine whether it needs doing or not ?

The thing is, I don't even know whether my current factory clutch is farked or not, I'm sure you've read my "possible" symptoms earlier in this thread.
So I'm throwing $ at it in a gamble, that it is farked, and last thing I need is to spend even more $$$ on other things which would be perfectly fine @ 100k. If they last me another 100k, I'd i'll die a happy man.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I really want to get this one correct as it's not a cheap exercise, especially when I'm getting it replaced as a "hunch" that it is possibly farked.
mudski
You had the spigot assembly when I bought the clutch of you didn't you? Still have it for sale ?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68169&stc=1

[nissannewby]

I would at least do rear main seal, spigot bush and sump gasket. The sump gasket because it will be disturbed when doing the reat main. I have always done these when doing the clutch.

You should have a new throwout bearing and spiggot bush in the clutch kit.

The flywheel should be machined. It gives the new clutch plate a nice surface to bed into. Similar to honing a cylinder when new rings are installed.

[mudski]

Your is fwrked mate. When i tried it, it was grabbing right at the end of the pedal, right at the end.
I wouldn't bother with the hydraulic side of things, but do everything else as Mat has mentioned. And which spigot are you talking about?

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[Hodge]

And which spigot are you talking about?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Remember when I bought the clutch off you, you had a spigot assembly ( I think it was ) you offered and I said I won't need it lol.

[sooty_10]

I would at least do rear main seal, spigot bush and sump gasket. The sump gasket because it will be disturbed when doing the reat main. I have always done these when doing the clutch.

You should have a new throwout bearing and spiggot bush in the clutch kit.

The flywheel should be machined. It gives the new clutch plate a nice surface to bed into. Similar to honing a cylinder when new rings are installed.
When I did mine this is exactly what I replaced. Didn't worry about welch plugs etc. Maybe if it had 300k+ on it. Mine was @ about 150k.

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[threedogs]

Plus a great box for recovery or cooking gear win win eh imo

[Hodge]

Made use of some sunshine.
Fitted up some Boss tower braces... Task I've been procrastinating for a while now.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68816&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68817&stc=1

[threedogs]

Hodge could you weld it also in afew places for better strength .
how long did it take to fit, BTW

[Hodge]

I'm not sure welding would add much benefit. But then again I'm no structural engineer. Everything fit perfectly and snug, so I think it is adequately doing the job it's designed for. I can see how the factory tower hats crack, the metal meat up there isn't enough in my books.
Took me good 2-3 hours. Longest part was getting the coils out for me.

[MarionCohrs]

It still looks new.. how much did you get this again?

[nissannewby]

Did the clutch resolve your noise issue hodge?

[Hodge]

Did the clutch resolve your noise issue hodge?

Hey Mat long time no hear hope all is well.
Clutch hasn't been done yet. Had few issues pop up postponing it.
But in saying that, that noise has gotten considerably worse. It's now borderline embarrassing to drive. Forget the loud straight through exhaust, it's the rattling noise that turns heads now days.

[Hodge]

Bumped into another 4.2 owner at a servo and had chat before.
He noticed the way my car starts and he says it's not right.
Basically, when starting, my car does not crank at all. I wait till glow light is out, and the second i turn the key, and electrics make contact, it just fires up. I mean the motor maybe has half a turn at most and she just starts. It has always been like this.
He says that it's because the pump and injectors lines retain too much pressure when car is off, and this is not good ???? It's meant to return the remaining pressurized diesel in the lines back through a spill valve?
His car was same as mine, series 4 4.2 2006. And his cranks for one or 2 seconds and then rumbles to life.
My car has been like this since day one of owning it so, I don't know.
I'm not concerned. But just curious, what's your thoughts Mat ? nissannewby

[mudski]

It starts instantly. Whats the issue with that? It would be more concerning if it was the other way I think. Atleast you have a 4.2 you can start...:(

[Hodge]

It starts instantly. Whats the issue with that? It would be more concerning if it was the other way I think. At least you have a 4.2 you can start...:(
I thought so too, but just curious. This bloke could have been on the spicy smokes for all I know.
I'm no expert but the way I see it. Mechanical pump should produce no pressure when the car isn't running? So what pressure in the system lol.

[nissannewby]

Thats how all my tds start.

Straight away no hesitation. If it doesnt start like this something is up.
Hodge

[Woof]

Bumped into another 4.2 owner at a servo and had chat before.
He noticed the way my car starts and he says it's not right.
Basically, when starting, my car does not crank at all. I wait till glow light is out, and the second i turn the key, and electrics make contact, it just fires up. I mean the motor maybe has half a turn at most and she just starts. It has always been like this.
He says that it's because the pump and injectors lines retain too much pressure when car is off, and this is not good ???? It's meant to return the remaining pressurized diesel in the lines back through a spill valve?
His car was same as mine, series 4 4.2 2006. And his cranks for one or 2 seconds and then rumbles to life.
My car has been like this since day one of owning it so, I don't know.
I'm not concerned. But just curious, what's your thoughts Mat ? nissannewby

Mine is exactly like yours mate, maybe his has the problem

[jay see]

It starts instantly. Whats the issue with that? It would be more concerning if it was the other way I think. Atleast you have a 4.2 you can start...:(
Mine is a gas blower and I start it up a couple times a day.😜

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Plasnart]

I thought so too, but just curious. This bloke could have been on the spicy smokes for all I know.
I'm no expert but the way I see it. Mechanical pump should produce no pressure when the car isn't running? So what pressure in the system lol.

It starts straight up and thats a problem?? Get off the fizz dude. Mine also cranks straight up unless its sat for a month, thats when it takes about a second to fire, probably coz the batteries are down to 12-13V.

By the way i think my clutch is stuffed. As soon as i press the peddle in I lose all drive. Should keep drive for at least a second some guy told me.

[threedogs]

It starts instantly. Whats the issue with that? It would be more concerning if it was the other way I think. Atleast you have a 4.2 you can start...:(

Still no Patrol A very sad day in Mudskiville today lol lol


FYI mine starts instantly like yours, when it didnt turned out to be shot
glow plug.
At least your starter is getting minimum use and thats a good thing eh

[Stropp]

Mine is exactly like yours mate, maybe his has the problem

mines the same too instant start

[mudski]

Still no Patrol A very sad day in Mudskiville today lol lol


FYI mine starts instantly like yours, when it didnt turned out to be shot
glow plug.
At least your starter is getting minimum use and thats a good thing eh

Nope! I got the call!!!!!!!

[Hodge]

Nope! I got the call!!!!!!!

I can confirm this. Went to pick it up and saw it in person.
Now you have a Patrol! Welcome to the forum Mudski.

[Hodge]

Haven't posted here in a while ! Thought I'd bump it with some bullshit!
Not much has happened to the car for a long time. It's just a daily driver to work and back for 3 out of 6 weeks and the other 3 it sits parked. Sad really as I haven't got time to utilize it for it's true purpose! Camping !

I'm saying this for a 83984th time, but still need to get the clutch done... Even though this one is still working fine.
Also got all the bits and pieces for secondary battery to be relocated to the rear. And a ton of other wiring and switches to be done. Waiting for the 4 weeks off starting just before Xmas to give the car some dedicated love.

[Hodge]

Finished gutting the second battery system today. Now everything is out. Need to go get some more cable, cable and then begin install in the read.


Also as my boost controller was hidden in all the spaghetti I failed to notice there is oil residue coming out of it. Looks like it's been doing it for a while. So, I' assuming this'll be due to no catch can ?? nissannewby mudrunner do you noticed this on yours by any chance?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70382&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70383&stc=1

[mudski]

Oil residue isn't an issue. I have a catch can and still get a little from mine. why have you removed the second battery? Just re wiring?

[Hodge]

Oil residue isn't an issue. I have a catch can and still get a little from mine. why have you removed the second battery? Just re wiring?

Cheers. Thought as much just thought I'd ask anyway.

Complete second battery system is going in the rear of the car boxed. Plus other wiring jobs along the way.
I wired everything up somewhat in a hurry when I done it initially. My original idea was always to have battery and charger in the rear.

[nissannewby]

Finished gutting the second battery system today. Now everything is out. Need to go get some more cable, cable and then begin install in the read.


Also as my boost controller was hidden in all the spaghetti I failed to notice there is oil residue coming out of it. Looks like it's been doing it for a while. So, I' assuming this'll be due to no catch can ?? nissannewby mudrunner do you noticed this on yours by any chance?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70382&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70383&stc=1

I dont get any residue. I dont run a catch can either.

It shouldnt be a problem for the boost controller though. Is there any residue on the turbo or intercooler?

[Hodge]

I dont get any residue. I dont run a catch can either.

It shouldnt be a problem for the boost controller though. Is there any residue on the turbo or intercooler?

Cheers mate.
There is none visible I had a good look. If I take a hose off and have a look inside, there is oil mist visible, but none externally visible that I can see. As in no leaky hoses or anything...

[Hodge]

So made better progress today than I expected in putting my aux. battery system back together. Mounted everything on a bit of timber and semi-wired it. Then trial fitted it and so far I'm happy.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70387&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70388&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70389&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70390&stc=1

Found some brackets and some fitting bolts (think they were ex-cargo barrier pieces) to suit, which I used to mount it to the cargo barrier. The bracket as backing. Worked a treat.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70391&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70392&stc=1

I can see my turbo again !!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70393&stc=1


So still a bit to do. Run 8mm from front to rear and terminate it all. And then fit off several accessories. I need to work out a way to secure the battery box. I've not idea how yet.

My diesel / hydraulic mechanic will make me up a see through perspex / fibreglass cover to go over the charger / fuses and then that should be it.

[nissannewby]

Cheers mate.
There is none visible I had a good look. If I take a hose off and have a look inside, there is oil mist visible, but none externally visible that I can see. As in no leaky hoses or anything...

How hard is it to pull the outlet pipe of the cooler off?

[Hodge]

How hard is it to pull the outlet pipe of the cooler off?


Outlet hose out of the intercooler, once clamp was off, took a tiny bit of wiggle and jiggle... but slid off not issues.


The OTHER unrelated thing I spotted earlier, that I will be keeping an eye out on is coolant. I noticed it sitting between min and max on level ground.
I am 95 % positive that it has been around max level all the time since the coolant system got re-freshed. This was at full operating temps. I added around 300-400ml of distilled water to max.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70396&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Was there much oil residue on the outlet side of the cooler?

That level is fine at operating temp. When cold it should be at the low mark then as the temp gets higher the coolant expands and it will get to the max mark.

[Hodge]

Was there much oil residue on the outlet side of the cooler?

That level is fine at operating temp. When cold it should be at the low mark then as the temp gets higher the coolant expands and it will get to the max mark.

Simply mist. I think I had to swipe my finger around the inside rim of that flexi outlet hose to get some dampness on the finger. From memory the inlet IC pipe had more. So the pipe from the snail to the IC. I will re-check again tomorrow.
Are you trying to establish something here Mat ?



As for the coolant. I understand it goes up and down with the temps, but the fact that I clearly remember it being on MAX even at running temps has me baffled. We did have some hot days recently but the car was barely pushed. Max temps were 84-85C.
Will keep an eye out anyway.

[nissannewby]

Simply mist. I think I had to swipe my finger around the inside rim of that flexi outlet hose to get some dampness on the finger. From memory the inlet IC pipe had more. So the pipe from the snail to the IC. I will re-check again tomorrow.
Are you trying to establish something here Mat ?



As for the coolant. I understand it goes up and down with the temps, but the fact that I clearly remember it being on MAX even at running temps has me baffled. We did have some hot days recently but the car was barely pushed. Max temps were 84-85C.
Will keep an eye out anyway.

Kind of. While the residue isnt a problem for the boost controller I feel it may be breathing a little heavy. Do you still have the egr system hooked up on yours?

Yeah at max at running temps is spot on. If it gets any hotter it will go higher but will be drawn in as it cools to operating temp again. And vice versa.

[Hodge]

Kind of. While the residue isnt a problem for the boost controller I feel it may be breathing a little heavy. Do you still have the egr system hooked up on yours?



EGR is cut / shut / welded off at the point right where it used to enter the old intercooler pipe. So the motor isn't breathing any more of that, no.

[Hodge]

So while doing some re-wiring etc... I discovered this spaghetti of vacuum lines. Each one comes out of one of the 3 (solenoids ?) you can see in the photo. All were just cut and tucked away to the side except the green traced one top left in the photo ... You can see a green trace on it.

I followed it along the top of the motor and it goes and connects "somewhere" down the front of the motor near the injector pump. Vacuum pump ???

I am assuming, all of this was cut and made redundant when JPC installed the intercooler. I guess one was for the butterfly valve, one something to do with the EGR ? The rest I have no idea... Everything on the car functions as it should I think, without these.....
nissannewby

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70414&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70415&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Yes its all to do with the egr system. I have removed all that completely. I put a simple little blanking cap on the small outlet of the vac pump. Alls that is left from me egr system is the loom plugs for those solenoids.

Bit shit leaving it all like that really....

[Hodge]

Thanks mate. So i can cut and remove the whole thing, balls and all, and cap at vac pump end.... Gain some room under the hood.

Found this in the manual after looking for ages.

Thanks Mat.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70418&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Shouldnt have to cut anything it should all just unplug really.

[Hodge]

Shouldnt have to cut anything it should all just unplug really.

Yeah i meant it in a "general" way. Think I'll get rid of the whole assembly. That bracket with the solenoids takes a bit of room.

[nissannewby]

Get rid of the egr cooler too. This will take a small amount of load off your cooling system

[Hodge]

Yeah another to do item ... Should have done it when the coolant was dropped.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70423&stc=1

[Hodge]

Changed the diesel filter today and installed my Uniden CB/Scanner.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70543&stc=1

[Hodge]

So I am still unsure as what's happening with my cooling system. After losing that 200-300mL of coolant out of reservoir things have been funny.
For example my usual freeway drive to work / home and vice versa, max temps I will get 80-81. More if I really push it. Lately, even cruising, where usually it'll be around 79-80, it goes all the way to 85-86. I never see those temps unless car is really working.
Also, idling it'll always go back and settle at 75-76C, unless it is hot, 30C ambient temps etc... Lately it sits on 78-79. Comes down to 77 after a long time idling but it never settles on 76 any more.
Also coming to a halt at lights or get off the freeway. Temps always drop very quickly to idling temps... Lately they simmer on or around 79-80. This is all even during the cool days.

I know in the grand scheme of things these temperatures are absolutely nothing... But I'm wondering what and why has it changed. Hope there was no air buble or something that swallowed that bit of coolant.
Shes going to get pressure tested on Monday and i'll go from there .

[mudnut]

1st thing I'd look at is the systems pressure cap. I had coolant loss like that and the cap wasn't sealing properly so it sucked air instead of the coolant back from the overflow.

[Hodge]

1st thing I'd look at is the systems pressure cap. I had coolant loss like that and the cap wasn't sealing properly so it sucked air instead of the coolant back from the overflow.

Fair point mudnut. I have 3 caps on my system, radiator isn't pressurized, nor is the overflow tank one. But the header tank is the only pressure cap I have. Might have a look at it. I should have replaced all of those when my cooling system was redone. Mind you, I DID tinker around that area when I pulled out the dual battery system/tray. I could have disturbed something ... Might go grab some caps tomorrow.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70545&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70544&stc=1

[mudnut]

Let's hope its a simple fix.

[gubigfish]

You haven't done something like knocked the caps on the overflow and released the seal just enough?

[Hodge]

You haven't done something like knocked the caps on the overflow and released the seal just enough?

I am hoping it is something as simple as this. Bleed system again should solve it as well as some new caps while I'm at it... Will have a crack.

Even so, if I did... Where did the bit of coolant go. I understand the pressure cap on the header tank has two functions it is a pressure cap but it also allows the radiator to suck back the expanded coolant back as it cools to maintain a filled up airless system.

I'm always a bit cautious on bleeding this system.

[mudski]

Sorry i didnt answer your text earlier. Phone went flat as soon as i read the message. So ill post here so i dont forget. Ill be home late next week....

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Picked up some caps before. Mr Nissan knows how to hit the wallet that's for sure.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/80.jpg

Sent from S5

[nissannewby]

Should have gotten them from overseas.

Your temp differences are not a worry. The warmer weather could be changing the resistance of the wire altering the readout ever so slightly. I dont those temp gauges would be that accurate.

As for bleeding these systems they are dead simple compared to the earlier ones. Fill the rad. The fill the header tank. Take for a quick drve and top up if required.

[Hodge]

Should have gotten them from overseas.

Your temp differences are not a worry. The warmer weather could be changing the resistance of the wire altering the readout ever so slightly. I dont those temp gauges would be that accurate.

As for bleeding these systems they are dead simple compared to the earlier ones. Fill the rad. The fill the header tank. Take for a quick drve and top up if required.

Thanks Mat. I could have gotten them a lot cheaper even from Mark but he is on holidays. I needed them before MOnday morning.
As for the temps, I'm confident its getting worse. It's 22C here, has been cool all day. Stopped and sitting at lights after just cruising on a main rd @ 60kmh. Gauge reads 77 and begins climbing, all the way to 83 and then slowly comes down. The temps have never done anything remotely like this before even at 27-28C + ambient, let alone on a cool 22C day. Something is definitely up.


As for bleeding, are you saying these are self bleeding? I thought I would have had to do the coke bottle uphill trick.

[nissannewby]

Yeah they are self bleeding. The header tank is the same as putting a Coke bottle in the rad. Very simple mate they are a much better arrangement.

[Hodge]

Yeah they are self bleeding. The header tank is the same as putting a Coke bottle in the rad. Very simple mate they are a much better arrangement.

Ok I see. So in theory, even I did get some air into the system by chance, it would have bled itself out by now...

[Hodge]

Had the cooling system pressure checked . Held full pressure for 3 hours not even half a psi lost. So no leaks.
Will just monitor it and act if it gets worse . Inconclusive result.

Sent from S5

[Hodge]

Re: My temps overall being few degrees higher.
Just had another thought ... Since I re-located my boost controller, literally a day before this occurrence began , I may or may not have knocked the setting slightly? nissannewby
Mat, does altering boost here have any influence on fuel? So lowering boost it lowers fuel and vice versa ?
I don't fully understand how the whole boost vs. IP system works.
The reason I'm asking is last 2 tanks I have got worse fuel economy too... So....
What I am getting at is, if, say fuel was increased a tad, therefore more fuel burnt, higher temps ? Just a brainstorm thought.

[nissannewby]

Do you have a boost gauge?

It shouldnt effect your temperatures. I still think you are worrying to much over such a small difference. If it was 10 degrees across the board then maybe be looking.

[Hodge]

Do you have a boost gauge?

It should effect your temperatures. I still think you are worrying to much over such a small difference. If it was 10 degrees across the board then maybe be looking.

Thanks Mat. Not worried one bit as it is far from being "hot". Just very curious as to what Ive done to change it.

Shes going in for full service, clutch, brakes, valve clearances, etc... next week and then booked in at Diesel Tec for a proper tune up. Should come up good.

[nissannewby]

All good mate. I meant to say it shouldnt change and have edited it now.

[threedogs]

Is your viscous fan ok it may be failing at idle once moving you have air flow
and temps come down

[jay see]

Is your viscous fan ok it may be failing at idle once moving you have air flow
and temps come down
I think this the problem I'm having.
Experiencing 5 to 10 degrees above normal.
Will take it out and refill with new oil when I get a chance.

Apologies for the hijack

[Hodge]

I think this the problem I'm having.
Experiencing 5 to 10 degrees above normal.
Will take it out and refill with new oil when I get a chance.

Apologies for the hijack

No hijack involved whatsoever. Its all good info !! The hub is next on the chopping block... From my limited knowledge, at operating (thermostat temps) the fan doesn't lock enough. When I flick the fan, it has a bit of play. 1/4 to 1/ a turn before it stops... Mudski had a go and he seems to think the same. He has been playing different oil levels on his hub so I'll take his word of advice on it. They had a god in the workshop yesterday and they believe it is pulling good air and locks up enough when motor is hot. I should have replaced the hub when I had the whole cooling system overhauled. So, i've called it. New hub going in. That will eliminate that.

[Hodge]

So bit of an update.
Had the clutch done, flywheel machined, valves adjusted and full service done. All filters replaced etc...
Valves were very loose apparently so now they've been redone to spec. And you can definitely hear less "ticka tacka ticka tacka" sound.
Car now wears a 4Terrain heavy duty clutch. It now grabs really well right off the mark. Old clutch was definitely original. Clutch was fine, but from what I understood him the pressure plate wasnt holding "pressure" or tension or whatever... Loose springs or whatever....


Did the clutch resolve your noise issue hodge?
And... Mat I can finally answer your question from a while back...
That gear box rattle / growl has now been reduced by at least 80% ! It is still there but nowhere near as severe !!! Maybe because it grabs really good and early now?
It reminds me of driving my 3L Patrol again it is that quiet ! However... when I bumped into Dowie last week, his one was the same after clutch replacement and then slowly returned... So we will see how this one goes. Overall very very happy. Smooth car now on many levels.

The only negative now is, new clutch has exasperated a "clunk" I have which used to happen once in a while. Now it happens once every 2 or 3 gear changes. It's like when taking foot off the clutch, something goes clunk somewhere in the driveline. He checked what he could externally and there was no play... But needed more time to check / open things etc... Almost as if taking up slack ... Maybe diff back lash?? I don't know whether that could be worse with new truck. But thats another story ...

As for my transfer case leak... That is on the to do list. Leak wasnt that bad and I needed the car back.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39455-Leak-between-transfer-case-and-rear-tail-shaft

[threedogs]

Try changing gears differently, and see if that helps pin point your clunk.

PML you have a Clunk lol

[mudski]

Ive been thinking about the new noise you have. I reckon it will go away as the clutch beds in. Because its all new, the clutch will grab a hell of a lot faster than an old clutch. Which will exasperate any noises. So as the clutch wears in and the pedal height will slightly rise, I think it will go. My gearbox has the same, well similar clunk as to yours, but only when my missus drives it. It must be the way, or the timing of her releasing the clutch to pressing the go pedal. Anyhow i dont you should be concerned over it, as it is a 3T 4WD, with a rattly TD42 shaking the shite out of things, and things will rattle and clunk.

[threedogs]

mudski are there different clutch pressures available for the Patrol
say a HD clutch for towing and say a stock one.

Hodge great timber box they arrive in eh
I use 3 just for camping equipment

[Hodge]

I dont think this is clutch related Mark mudski. It seems to be further down the line... Like there is play between the gears somewhere in the diff or gearbox or something...
I should actually almost call it a "jolt" as the car just about jolts forward when something "grabs" and begins applying momentum to the car. But it happens "after" clutch engages not during... If that makes sense it takes a second or milliseconds even , I'm confident its down the line...
I'll come around when i get a moment you take it for a spin you'll see, feel and hear it trust me lol.

[Hodge]

So today I took Mudski for a spin and he had sisten and a drive , trying to sort out what the clunk is. Then I had my work mechanic do the same and all are confident this is most likely on the diff.
Excessive backlash ? Who knows.
To confirm , can i jack up the rear axle , take the rear shaft off the transfer and see if there is play by hand spinning the shaft ?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

I've been meaning to ask this for a while but I always forget. After a cold start (I think it's only during cold starts (morning)), after a little while of car being on, maybe a minute or so, maybe more I haven't timed it... I notice the engine revs up ever ever so slightly and the headlight's go a tiny bit brighter. It's like there is load on the electrical side that turns off. Could this be the glow plug's timing out ?
It's been doing this since I got the car. Nothing wrong I think, just curious what it is.

I think I have maybe nailed this, this morning. I think it is the clutch fan kicking out ... I had the bonnet up after starting the car checking something, and after a little bit ... motor revved up ever ever slightly and like it had some load taken off and the whooshing air from the fan went much quieter...
It makes sense after speaking to mudski , clutch is solid when cold, and then it released after warming up a little bit, and then kicks in later again by oil when it heats up...

[mudski]

Put one of your real heavy sparkies gloves on and see if you can stop the fan from spinning with the engine idle. After the engine has had a good drive. As long as you run your hand in the right direction on the spinning fan you wont do any damage. Its when the clutch is hot, is where the issue will be.

[Hodge]

Won't bother . Just slap a new one on when it arrives. Solved.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Rear lsd.......

[threedogs]

Have you tried turning the tailshaft by hand when in gear and rear jacked up
to see how much backlash you actually have?? that should confirm it for you.
with the motor off of course. lol

You already have one of the HPD water pumps fitted yes???

[Winnie]

I reckon it's more likely to be your glow plugs turning off

[threedogs]

I reckon it's more likely to be your glow plugs turning off

does it happen only at start up or evrytime he changes gear,Im not sure

[threedogs]

Won't bother . Just slap a new one on when it arrives. Solved.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Wouldnt a new fan do the same thing, ????

[Hodge]

Wouldnt a new fan do the same thing, ????
Fan is useless if the clutch it fucked and can't drive the fan.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[mudski]

To confirm , can i jack up the rear axle , take the rear shaft off the transfer and see if there is play by hand spinning the shaft ?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Yeah you can but I dont know if this is going to do a whole lotta good. You have nothing for comparison and who knows, the back lash you have might be ok. The only way to find out for sure is to remove the centre and have it checked. Then you might aswell put new clutch plates and shims in the LSD while its out. Where does it stop. Lol.

[Hodge]

Car just started making horrendous whining noise up front like a dry bearing ??? Really hope it's not the water pump bearing they put in... it's not the belts .



So this returned with a vengeance today. Spent a bit of time trying to find what and where under a hot running 4.2 with ambient 34C and it's not fun...
Ran out of time, but I'll have to drop each belt to try and isolate it.

I only just remembered that it actually happened last year. (hence quoting my self) I'm confident it's the same noise but at a lesser level...
I just HOPE this time it doesn't go away all of a sudden preventing me finding out what it is.

[Clunk]

So this returned with a vengeance today. Spent a bit of time trying to find what and where under a hot running 4.2 with ambient 34C and it's not fun...
Ran out of time, but I'll have to drop each belt to try and isolate it.

I only just remembered that it actually happened last year. (hence quoting my self) I'm confident it's the same noise but at a lesser level...
I just HOPE this time it doesn't go away all of a sudden preventing me finding out what it is.
Aircon pulley?

[Hodge]

That or the idler pulley . Prime suspects.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Fan is useless if the clutch it fucked and can't drive the fan.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

so back to the drawing board lol
hopefully you can pin point the problem this time around

[Hodge]

so back to the drawing board lol
hopefully you can pin point the problem this time around
Yeah this time it's still there. So I think it'll stay till it's fixed.
This morning turned car on it was gone I was spewing. But by the time I got to tulla 15km.trip it was there in all its glory. So this after noon I hope to disassemble belts and try and pin point.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Certainly sounds weirds, not the best weather to be working on 4x4s either
Have you gat a thethescope to listen to Air con pully bearing??

[Hodge]

Car was on dyno yesterday. Slight improvement since last time. I also had the 2 tensioners / pulleys and viscous hub replaced. Whatever the bearing noise I had is now gone... Happy times. Just working on burping the system now, its taking it's sweet time. Used my spill free funnel for first time.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71206&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Its taking its time cos they dont work like the older systems like I have told you. If everything is full then just drive it. Recheck the level tomorrow morning. I doubt you have to top up much if any. Once the radiator is full you should only have check it at the header tank.

[nissannewby]

Dyno printout?

[threedogs]

Did any of the parts replaced indicate if they were causing your noise.
No one will know what caused it, as a few parts replaced at once..lol

X 2 on the print out

[Hodge]

Its taking its time cos they dont work like the older systems like I have told you. If everything is full then just drive it. Recheck the level tomorrow morning. I doubt you have to top up much if any. Once the radiator is full you should only have check it at the header tank.

Hey Mat.
I think the issue may have been from the initial fill... I'm not sure. All I know is air was trapped somewhere .
So at the workshop yesterday we filled everything up, the radiator and the header to the top and engine ran up to operating temps. Kept topping up as it went a long and air came out and then everything settled. Header tank full. And yeah the bloke said just drive it and recheck as these are self burping. Exactly how you explained it to me Mat.
I then drove the car home, which is less than 3km's. Got home popped the hood, header tank just about empty... Shock 'n horror lol.
So I let the car cool down. Topped up the header tank to max. Closed it and went for another drive. Came home all good.
I then checked this morning, stone cold car, header tank again about 1/4 full... So then I decided to have a crack at the radiator. Filled all up, stuck the funnel into the radiator and slowly ran it up to temp. Once thermostat opened bubbles began coming out and eventually stopped... Header tank and radiator completely full. Closed up, went for a spin.
And throughout the day I think it has now settled... Header is 90% full. Might need another tiny bit added. Fingers crossed.
My first time touching the cooling system on my own so I was just winging it lol.

Question. When system is fully warm and pressurised, obviously don't open anything... But when is a safe tell-tale sign, that I can pop the system open to top up the header tank for example ?? Like squeezing a hose or a certain temp ? Waiting for the car to fully cool down is demoralising lol.


Dyno printout?

6-7kW~ than last time.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71207&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Strange I have never had to top up that much after doing a flush and coolant change but anyway its all good.

As for checking you can see into the header tank. So if its a little low when warm and the expansion tank isnt full then just top the expansion tank up. Dont fill it but juat roughly put it what you think needs to be drawn back in as it cools.

Was that dyno done in 4th?

[Hodge]

Strange I have never had to top up that much after doing a flush and coolant change but anyway its all good.

As for checking you can see into the header tank. So if its a little low when warm and the expansion tank isnt full then just top the expansion tank up. Dont fill it but juat roughly put it what you think needs to be drawn back in as it cools.

Was that dyno done in 4th?
Thanks
Yeah I'm absolute amateur at it, I only know from how you explained it to me and Mudski gave me heaps of advice but even then I found it odd that it kept swallowing coolant after 3 top ups.
But it's settled now will recheck tomorrow.

Dyno was in 4th . I was there for most of it ... I'm still regaining my hearing slowly and hearing ringing noises etc
Bloody straight through exhaust in a dyno room is dangerous.



Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Thanks
Yeah I'm absolute amateur at it, I only know from how you explained it to me and Mudski gave me heaps of advice but even then I found it odd that it kept swallowing coolant after 3 top ups.
But it's settled now will recheck tomorrow.

Dyno was in 4th . I was there for most of it ... I'm still regaining my hearing slowly and hearing ringing noises etc
Bloody straight through exhaust in a dyno room is dangerous.



Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Interesting. They must stop it shortly after the power starts to dive. Did you get a torque readout at all?

[jff45]

What other mods apart from the CC IC? That looks like an above average result for a stock TD42Ti, especially with stock airbox.

[Hodge]

Interesting. They must stop it shortly after the power starts to dive. Did you get a torque readout at all?
I'll have to ask for torque numbers. I need to go back anyway as this tune is pretty shit. It may have gained high end numbers but it lost that punchy " pull" it had previously . It's not right.

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

What other mods apart from the CC IC? That looks like an above average result for a stock TD42Ti, especially with stock airbox.
Cross country cooler and 3 inch exhaust are all the performance orientated mods.
You think she's being pushed too hard ?

I know he did say turbo is or nearly is out of its depth running at 17 max.
Pump and especially the air intake are the bottle neck from now.

As my above comment I don't like this tune it'll be going back .

Or my try different tuner .

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[Winnie]

You should be able to get more out of that pump, and the air intake will handle more too but you will see a big gain by changing it.
Your turbo should be the limiting factor at the moment.

[Hodge]

You should be able to get more out of that pump, and the air intake will handle more too but you will see a big gain by changing it.
Your turbo should be the limiting factor at the moment.

Yeah from memory Mat said that as well. Something along the lines of HT18 is out of it's efficiency range or something like that.

[Hodge]

I think it's finally settled and burped it's self entirely. Header tank full to brim no bubbles. Good result.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/03/106.jpg

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

have you a dual battery system ??

[Hodge]

have you a dual battery system ??

Yes. It's been relocated from the front to the rear .

[Hodge]

So after last dyno tune the idle and air con idle have been fucked good and proper... It's a long angry story. So I won't get into that.
I need to adjust just my normal idle. Not aircon idle. Just the usual idle.
It's sitting on 850-900RPM. Usually it's on 650 or there abouts. And aroud 750rpm Aircon idle.

@nissannewby (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?8473-nissannewby) I know you're a busy man. But when you get a moment give us a rough guide which screw I need to adjust ? Just normal idle. Forget aircon idle.

Thanks mate.

[nissannewby]

I will grab a pic for you mate and post it here. You want idle to be around 750rpm mate. It needs to remain at a similar or slightly higher rpm for ac, around 800rpm.

Sounds like they have altered the fuel screw which isnt great. Im hoping no one has mucked with the timing of that pump as well.

[happygu]

Hodge,

I found the idle on my old 4.2 used to wander about a little so I used to have the hand throttle set at idle speed to take care of that, if I didn't it would stall occasionally .

Yours might be similar ...... It may not necessarily have been the tune up.

[Hodge]

Hodge,

I found the idle on my old 4.2 used to wander about a little so I used to have the hand throttle set at idle speed to take care of that, if I didn't it would stall occasionally .

Yours might be similar ...... It may not necessarily have been the tune up.
Whatever was done during the dyno definitely altered the idle and air con idle. It happened last year as well. It just idled way too high. So went back and they fixed it in 5 minutes.

This time exactly the same thing happened. Except ive so far been back twice and they cannot adjust it properly.

Prior to any of this my idle was perfect no fluctuations unless aircon is on, which is when it idles up 50-100 rpm.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[Ben-e-boy]

I would just go back and tell them to adjust it back. It left their shop like that. So they should deal with it.

[Hodge]

I would just go back and tell them to adjust it back. It left their shop like that. So they should deal with it.
Its going back next week. I couldnt catch them during working hours this week.
But until then i just need to drop the idle as its shitting me idling at 900 or there abouts .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Does it have a fast [high] idle switch like some carbies have???

[Hodge]

Does it have a fast [high] idle switch like some carbies have???
Like the 3L warm up switch ?
No nothing like that. Just a manual hand throttle . Which i never ever touch.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Like the 3L warm up switch ?
No nothing like that. Just a manual hand throttle . Which i never ever touch.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Some of the bigger 4 barrel carbs you could flick the linkage so the revs went up
just thought yours may have similar

[nissannewby]

Its going back next week. I couldnt catch them during working hours this week.
But until then i just need to drop the idle as its shitting me idling at 900 or there abouts .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Why is it going back?

[Hodge]

Why is it going back?
To get this idle sorted. But looks like i might have to postpone it anyway.

I couldnt get the car to them earlier. So for now id just like to drop my regular idle down a bit and then they can sort the rest out.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Started putting the draws together. I got lucky since it came out of identical body GU, it was a bolt off / bolt on job. Just had to extend the child anchors and adjust the cargo barrier brackets.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71628&stc=1

[threedogs]

Just need a rear door table now lol

[Bacho86]

Nice work mate, did you work out how you're going to set up your 2nd battery and BCDC now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Nice work mate, did you work out how you're going to set up your 2nd battery and BCDC now?

I haven't mate. I have some ideas, but not sure it'll work out. Some great neat spots for the Redarc hidden away, but the battery is the main culprit. If all else fails, it'll go back to the front.

[threedogs]

How did your lightbar go on the bullbar?? Had a chance to use it yet
and if so did it shake at all ?. looks like it was a very firm installation

[Hodge]

Yeh John it went on. It hasn't moved. I have a fair few bump stops on my way out of my area, so if they haven't shaken it down yet, nothing will... Looks good.
For a 32" bar from 4Wd Supa centre it's very bright and quality seems ok. How long will it last? Time will tell.

Phil PeeBee opened my eyes on how different LED's / bars react to different voltages. He has some of his running at 30V and output is apparently very good.
I'll toy around with some regulators and step up converters as I have some laying around.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71678&stc=1

[Hodge]

Finished fitting the draws last night. Very very happy with the result considering the whole lot cost me a 6 pack lol. Just tinkering with the dual battery system now and she'll be done !
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71708&stc=1

[Hodge]

Been 2 and half years since I stepped into this thread. Thought I'd give it some love.
Fitted up the new adjustable draglink today, returned the pitman where it needs to be and steering is straight again. Also fitted a new bush to the panhard rod on the diff end. This had no movement by hand, and I can't tell whether it was stuffed or not by looking at it or feeling it. The chassis end, spherical one I didn't' do because I got sent the wrong one...
Soapy water, ratchet strap, vice and a press made light work of it all!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79422&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79421&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79420&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79419&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79424&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79423&stc=1

[Hodge]

She's hit 150k today.
Going alright for a 14 yo car. Less than 10k per years average... Love driving her. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/29.jpg

[Rossco]

Crickies she's a spring chicken, mines nearly at 400 but thats on the cluster from the engine conversion original bits have done bout 460. Old man's ZD30 just about to crack 400 too still going perfect lol. .

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[jay see]

Love driving her. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2020/03/29.jpg

I think you need to love driving her a lot more. Maybe another weekend getaway or 5.

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[mudski]

Crickies she's a spring chicken, mines nearly at 400 but thats on the cluster from the engine conversion original bits have done bout 460. Old man's ZD30 just about to crack 400 too still going perfect lol. .

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My GU is pushing 470K on the clock.

[Rossco]

My GU is pushing 470K on the clock.Nice, she's bloody clean for that many K's, dont think there'd be too many other examples in that state with those Kays. How many on it when the ZD came out?

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[mudski]

Nice, she's bloody clean for that many K's, dont think there'd be too many other examples in that state with those Kays. How many on it when the ZD came out?

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Not sure to be honest. I think I've done maybe 30thou with the TD.

[jay see]

Nice, she's bloody clean for that many K's, dont think there'd be too many other examples in that state with those Kays. How many on it when the ZD came out?

Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkAgree Rossco there might be a few clean ones getting around, but how many have 1/2 million on them.

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