Hodge's new 4.2

[Hodge]

Put a set of new shoes on. Mickey Thompson P3's in 285/75/16 on a set of black rims. Also painted the rusty hubs as it looked bad with new rims on. Just have to fix the front hubs now looks pretty shit.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62638&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62639&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62640&stc=1

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62641&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62642&stc=1

[Rocket55]

That looks great mate! Heard lots of good reports on those tyres also. What offset rims did you get?

[Rocket55]

Tap and die set ... To buy list !!

Edit: never used one so don't even know what I'm in for. Live and learn.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

I have a basic set at home 5-12mm or there a bouts. Comes in handy for all sorts of chassis bolts that want to be a PITA. Just run the tap through the hole and it cleans out all the rust, corrosion, dirt and all manner of other crap that makes like difficult, then you can just run the bolt in by hand most times.

[Hodge]

That looks great mate! Heard lots of good reports on those tyres also. What offset rims did you get?

Thanks mate. Great tires, I had the same set, same size on my 3L as well. It is a -22 offset on 16x8" rims.

[Hodge]

I dont like the look of the nut, spring and washer on the originaly tie down point. Need to use a ht washer or possibly a small insert for it.
Problem fixed. John didn't muck around and made some plates to suit the occasion. Perfect fit !

62740

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Thinking ,,,seeing you've blacked the grill why not that
chrome on the rear door just saying give it that stealth look

Still have your flag bracket here too, next time eh.
I welded mine yours is bolted on via 2 bolts

[Hodge]

Waiting for it to come back from painting. And I'll go from there. Thinking mirros and that rear barn door chrome bit maybe...

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Did see one that blacked the area above the doors.
looked great side on
Yeah black all the chrome, think about top of rear doors too

[nissannewby]

Problem fixed. John didn't muck around and made some plates to suit the occasion. Perfect fit !

62740

Tapatalked from S6

That looks tops. Much more professional

[threedogs]

That looks tops. Much more professional

Yeah was never happy with the big hole on the OE point.
much better IMO ,
Thanks to Eric for all the time with fitting etc,
but the result speaks for itself. very happy

[Hodge]

Grille is painted and on. Love it. Now mirrors and rear door chrome next.

62796

Tapatalked from S6

[Stropp]

looks good mate.

[Rocket55]

That looks sharp mate!

[mudski]

Very different there Eric. Will definitely be thd first ive seen like this. Nice.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Should make the badge black with white writing.

[Hodge]

Fitted up Ferrets light bracket I had left over from the grenade.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63091&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63092&stc=1



Time to fit some gauges to see what she is doing during these warm times we're having ...
I've settled for the Redarc, Boost, EGT and numerical temp. which will be my water temp ...
Just in a dillema now, 2 optional sensors related to the water temperature are as follows:

GS-OWT1-4 - A coolant or oil temperature sensor with a 1/4 NTP thread that is designed to measure from -20~ +170°C. Itis supplied with 3 metre extension cable to connect to your REDARC gauge.

or


GS-OWT1-8 - The REDARC GS-OWT1-8 is a coolant or oil temperature sensor with a 1/8 NTP thread that is designed tomeasure from -20~ +170°C. It is supplied with 3 metre extension cable to connect to your REDARC gauge.


Quickly do any of these fit any of the ones on the thermostat hosing, specifically the larger one that I circled in green ? I did try searching this and the other forum, but I'm more confused now than when I started. So yeah does anybody know exactly what fitting I need ?

And another somewhat silly question, but thought I better ask. Undoing any of these sesnors on the housing, will obviously spew coolant out, I'd do it when it's cold, but would I have to bleed the system afterwards ? Never fiddled with these so.... Very green on this !!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63093&stc=1

[jff45]

There are no NPT threads on a Patrol. Nissan use BSPT for all tapered fittings.

The threads in that housing are not tapered. From memory, it's a M10x1.5

You might find it will make a lot less mess if you drop your coolant level first from the tap under the radiator.

[Rocket55]

I'm pretty sure the one you circled is a 12 x 1.5. The 2 outside ports are 12 x 1.5 and the one in the middle is a 10 x 1.5

[nissannewby]

Yes M12 metric fittings.

[Hodge]

Thanks folks. So i can still utilize that hole, just with an adapter.

[mudski]

Thanks folks. So i can still utilize that hole, just with an adapter.
Yes thats where i have my temp sender. I used an adapter....

[Hodge]

Yes thats where i have my temp sender. I used an adapter....

Can you remember exactly what the sender fitting was, and what adapter it used ? I don't have the car with me and need to make some orders tonight.
Most bolt places would have the adapters ? ? ? Or would this only be a gas / plumbers places item ???

[mudski]

Ummm.... it was a m12x1.5 to 1/8(whatever the fitting is) adapter.
But jpc used a different adapter for some reason. I thinknthey didnt realise the adapter was in the box of a million parts when they were doing the conversion.
Pretty sure it was m12x1.5 too.
Send me a text later and ill see what i ordered.
The adapter is something that a hardware store wouldnt have. Maybe Pirtek? VPW in Epping would surely have them. They do a go fast stuff...

[jff45]

You could also drill and tap a 1/8 NPT thread in that existing bung

[threedogs]

Is eveyone positive its 1.5 pitch being the coarse thread compared to 1.25?
Doesnt sound right to me, happy to be wrong lol

[jff45]

On the TD42T, all the water cooling and oil feed banjos for the turbo are 1.5

[threedogs]

see Im wrong and Im happy lol

[nissannewby]

Any hydraulic shop will have what you need pirtek, hydraulink etc. Should be relatively cheap otherwise ebay.

[mudski]

Is eveyone positive its 1.5 pitch being the coarse thread compared to 1.25?
Doesnt sound right to me, happy to be wrong lol
Tbh John i cant remember, something is telling me its 1.5 though.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[jff45]

Here you go, no more guessing.. :)
...

[Hodge]

Haha cheers jff and the rest ... Parts,gauges,pillar pod ordered.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Hi Eric I noticed a few posts back you used an ockie strap to secure a drum of oil.
Please throw it an any others in the rubbish and use ratchet straps, ockie straps are an
accident waiting to happen, especially if you have yong children around, just saying lol

[mudski]

I'd agree with you here. Ratchet straps are good and safe. I only use occys to hold the tarp down over my camper.

[threedogs]

I'd agree with you here. Ratchet straps are good and safe. I only use occys to hold the tarp down over my camper.

wait till a mate loses an eye and you'll change your mind,
I never use them and havent for over 20 years.

[Hodge]

I agree on the straps. I only use them inside on the cargo barrier. Very convenient.

[Hodge]

Fitted up the rear work / flood / reverse light from LED Light Co.

Wired up with a switching relay to work when reverse kicks in OR with a flick of a switch it'll work simply be a work light .

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63162&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63163&stc=1

[DaveGQ]

Have you got a dual battery set up? If so, how did you wire it? I'm guessing when it's activated by the reverse gear it will be powered by your main battery, but when it's switched on as a work light you would want it to be powered by the aux batt?

[Hodge]

It is powered from the aux. battery , regardless whether I switch it on manually , or it is triggered by reverse gear.

Tapatalked from S6

[Hodge]

Here is how it's wired up.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63176&stc=1

[Hodge]

I'd like to do a cooling overhaul over the coming ages, as I cannot tell by records when the last time coolant was touched on this thing.

Things like full drain and flush, new thermostat, fresh coolant, maybe even a new radiator ?? Just brainstorming at the moment.
I spoke to a 4x4 shop today I will not name, but they were very hesitant to take on the job due to some bolt on the thermostat housing that goes a long way down into the block ?? Thats backfired on them a few times ?? Supposedly it commonly snaps off and front of the engine has to come off to get fixed ?
Was this bloke onto something or just pulling my leg ??

Cooling is detrimental to the 4.2 hence it's not a job I'd like to throw my amateur approach at. However it's made me even more cautious after what he told me.

Thoughts ?

[nissannewby]

Dont go back to that shop then.

Yes there is a long bolt in the thermostat housing and yes there have been cases where this bolt has snapped. If it does break then remove it. Its not as big a job as they have made out.

[Hodge]

Cheers mate. It's not a shop I've been to before, frankly i didnt know it was there, just happened to do some work in front of it and saw all these patrols up front and decided to ask while I was there. As I said he pretty much refused to touch the housing, no matter what $ was involved. THat was the end of that. lol

[nissannewby]

Last time I serviced my cooling system I found the hardest part was getting the correct hoses. The td42ti runs a different set of hoses to previous models and there are quite a few of them. It cost me close to 600 for all the hoses as at the time I could only get genuine. If you do decide to change the hoses then make sure you get them all.

As for the radiator if there is nothing wrong with it then just get clean it externally or if your worried give to a shop for an internal.

These setups with the header tank are very easy to bleed as well.

[threedogs]

Have you ever thought about painting
1 the top of the rear doors and
2 the top of the side doors matt black
that would truly make it yours
just saying

[threedogs]

Last time I serviced my cooling system I found the hardest part was getting the correct hoses. The td42ti runs a different set of hoses to previous models and there are quite a few of them. It cost me close to 600 for all the hoses as at the time I could only get genuine. If you do decide to change the hoses then make sure you get them all.

As for the radiator if there is nothing wrong with it then just get clean it externally or if your worried give to a shop for an internal.

These setups with the header tank are very easy to bleed as well.

I think Cuppa had all the pt numbers for all the belts and hoses

[Hodge]

Last time I serviced my cooling system I found the hardest part was getting the correct hoses. The td42ti runs a different set of hoses to previous models and there are quite a few of them. It cost me close to 600 for all the hoses as at the time I could only get genuine. If you do decide to change the hoses then make sure you get them all.

As for the radiator if there is nothing wrong with it then just get clean it externally or if your worried give to a shop for an internal.

These setups with the header tank are very easy to bleed as well.
Thank you sir.

I will replace the whole lot with genuine items. Nothing wrong with the radiator as in the car is not overheating or anything. I will know better what it's doing after the weekend when the proper numerical gauge goes in.
I just figured while I'm at it I'd replace the unit with a fresh one. But will see what it's like. The fact my car was a surface rust bomb when i got it and was used to dunk and pickup boats in sea water makes me even more concerned at what the long bolt will be doing.



Tapatalked from S6

[Hodge]

Have you ever thought about painting
1 the top of the rear doors and
2 the top of the side doors matt black
that would truly make it yours
just saying
First all chrome stuff then I'll go from there. That's on the back burner now as there is higher priorities on the car right now.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Eric before you fit your scoop can you trace the out line with bolt holes onto a piece of paper for me please.
got an idea, if possible

[Hodge]

Will do mate but my scoop is a while off...


Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Im sure I can laser cut some aluminium and have a vane
about 76-100mm inside the scoop to get air to the front.
Wonder if Mark has done his yet ??

[jff45]

This is something I thought about doing when I mounted my IC but I concluded that the hottest charge air was entering at the rear of my IC anyway and any deflector would only reduce the amount of air getting to the rear.

Heat moves pretty quickly in aluminium so I don't really know if trying to guide the airflow is worth it.
Most of the time, the higher road speed will be at less boost

[threedogs]

I wonder why all the R&D on the A.R.E scoops then??

[Hodge]

For what its worth... My exCRD patrol was from country SA, Coober Pedy. The intercooler developed that red Sandy color on the front half of it, the rear half was very clean. Going by this I assumed that , it utilized only the front half of it , so the air charging was not spread across the whole of IC surface.... It shot down as soon as it enters the scoop...
Vanes would somehow help this ???

My little theory only.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Was it ex SA police??

[jff45]

I wonder why all the R&D on the A.R.E scoops then??

Was it for a particular IC design?

I'm toying with the idea of fitting a temp gauge to the IC outlet to see if there really is any need to do something.
At the moment my IC fan cuts out after a couple hundred metres and it's near the IC outlet.

Edit: meant to say the temp sensor for the fan is near the IC outlet

[threedogs]

It just those larger scoops that fit the OE tigged IC

[Hodge]

Was it ex SA police??
I believe it was a police bus to truck cops between Adelaide and North SA towns, judging by the log books left behind ...

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

I believe it was a police bus to truck cops between Adelaide and North SA towns, judging by the log books left behind ...

Tapatalked from S6

Mate of mine brought a V8 troopy from them they even put new rear doors on it.
was only used like yours just shuffling officers north and south

[Hodge]

I am struggling to find right adapters for my water sensor and EGT probe. Went to Enzed and 2 other hyd. shops and they couldn't help me out.

My water temp hole is M12 x 1.5 and the sensor is 1/4 NPT.

EGT bung is 1/4 BSP and the probe is 1/8th NPT.

The bloke at Enzed found what he calls close enough for the water one The water one is a makeshift adapter consisting of 2 adapters, but the female is not NPT it is something else, but he reckons with a bit of thread tape it should work.... But also what he gave me, as you can see in one photo has a tiny hole through the adapter, which I am not sure, will be good enough for sensor to pickup the right coolant temperature through ????

Edit: The brass adapter in the photo is unrelated to anything here lol.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63185&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63186&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Hodge I will have a look tomorrow for you mate and get some part numbers for you if I can.

You can easily drill those fittings out as far as you can if you like.

[threedogs]

I have a full set of taps if you need to tap a new thread
Didnt Cuppa have the same problem with his EGT probe

[nissannewby]

I wonder why all the R&D on the A.R.E scoops then??

ARE did all their r&d on the factory cooler and their factory replacement core which really isnt that mucj bigger but much more efficient.

Easiest way to test this is the old wool trick. If you have a fan just hard wire and see how the air is behaving.

[Hodge]

Hodge I will have a look tomorrow for you mate and get some part numbers for you if I can.

You can easily drill those fittings out as far as you can if you like.

Cheers mate, that would be excellent! The water temp. one is my priority. EGT, worse comes to worst, can re-weld a bung to suit on.

[nissannewby]

Egt one is easy. You will just need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer. 1/8npt and bspt are close enough that it will work or you could run a 1/8 npt tap down it. Even a 1/4 bspt plug that you drill and tap yourself to 1/8npt.

[mudski]

I am struggling to find right adapters for my water sensor and EGT probe. Went to Enzed and 2 other hyd. shops and they couldn't help me out.

My water temp hole is M12 x 1.5 and the sensor is 1/4 NPT.

EGT bung is 1/4 BSP and the probe is 1/8th NPT.

The bloke at Enzed found what he calls close enough for the water one The water one is a makeshift adapter consisting of 2 adapters, but the female is not NPT it is something else, but he reckons with a bit of thread tape it should work.... But also what he gave me, as you can see in one photo has a tiny hole through the adapter, which I am not sure, will be good enough for sensor to pickup the right coolant temperature through ????

Edit: The brass adapter in the photo is unrelated to anything here lol.



Why is the water temp 1/4? Mine is 1/8. Have they changed the size? You got the Redarc gauges yeah? As for the bung. I have 1/4 and 1/8bsp bungs. If you get a BSP tap you can just retap it. NPT wont go into BSP, but BSP will go into NPT. Bugger. If your stuck go around to JPC and see Mark. He'll have something there for you.

And I got 1/4 to 1/8 reducers too mate. Both in NPT and BSP...

[Hodge]

Thanks Mark. I have the g52-bet model redarc. The temperature is an optional sensor that comes in 1/8 or 1/4 and i selected 1/4 . Otherwise both identical sensors.


Tapatalked from S6

[mudski]

Thanks Mark. I have the g52-bet model redarc. The temperature is an optional sensor that comes in 1/8 or 1/4 and i selected 1/4 . Otherwise both identical sensors.


Tapatalked from S6

Can you return the 1/4 temp sender and get the smaller one. Will be much easier to fit.

[Hodge]

Can you return the 1/4 temp sender and get the smaller one. Will be much easier to fit.

They were other of stock of the other one, so I got the 1/8 instead thinking it wouldn't be so bad...

[mudski]

They were other of stock of the other one, so I got the 1/8 instead thinking it wouldn't be so bad...
You got the 1/8 sender or 1/4 mate? You go to Ashdown yeah?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

You got the 1/8 sender or 1/4 mate? You go to Ashdown yeah?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

This was off eBay, but yeah I usually go there I forgot to check whether they had any of this to be honest.
When you say I've got the 1/4 or 1/8 sender, you mean the sensor ???

[mudski]

This was off eBay, but yeah I usually go there I forgot to check whether they had any of this to be honest.
When you say I've got the 1/4 or 1/8 sender, you mean the sensor ???
Yeah the thread sizes on the sender units.

[Hodge]

Yeah the thread sizes on the sender units.
Coolant is 1/4 npt but the housing thread is m12x1.5

Egt probe is 1/8th npt but bung thread is 1/4 bsp .

Picking it all up this morning from post.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Like I said if you get stuck I have the correct thread tap here for you

[Hodge]

Thanks mate I will suss it out when I have the gauge and sender units with me and I'll go from there .
Install still a few days away thanks to auspost.

Tapatalked from S6

[Hodge]

Few goodies arriving this morning. They sent out the wrong winch, but it's all good I'll just keep this one. Now for some fitting time.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63205&stc=1

[Hodge]

Fitted the winch up today. Fairly straight forward. A few issues that needed to be resolved, but nothing major. Found a nice spot for control box, still need to reposition it a bit as I failed to look ahead, and only noticed it's too close to the rope when rope is all wound in.

The bolts and nuts included, were the first issue. For some reason they only included 2 bolts and nuts. And the ones they did include, the nuts were too big to fit into the nut groove of the winch body. Easy fix, bolt shop down the road.

The next hurdle was clutch selector. It fouls on top of the bull bar if fitted upwards or forwards or downwards, where the hand gaps are. Will have to bend or cut some of the selector off. Easy done. Another future project.

All in all a solid winch. Feels and looks like a good product, packaged well with everything you need. The only thing I will pick on the Runva so far is the remote control and the wireless control. They feel so cheap, especially the wireless controller. It feels like a controller of a remote control car bought from a $2 shop.
Will see how long that lasts.

To do list: Wire in the winch isolator, wire in a rocker switch inside the cab, and re-locate the control box further from the cable drum.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63216&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63217&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63218&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63219&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63220&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63221&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63222&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63223&stc=1

[Bacho86]

Looking good mate - didn't you originally order a newer / upgraded runva 11xp? That looks the same as my old one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Looking good mate - didn't you originally order a newer / upgraded runva 11xp? That looks the same as my old one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah mate, I ordered the Premium version. But they sent this instead, but I just cbf waiting so they refunded me the difference and I keep this one.

When you say this looks like your old one, what happened to it ?


This is the premium one I ordered originally .....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63224&stc=1

[Bacho86]

When you say this looks like your old one, what happened to it ?



Sorry didn't make myself clear, just meant my older model - it's still kicking along, only used a few times in anger in the 12 months I've had it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Sorry didn't make myself clear, just meant my older model - it's still kicking along, only used a few times in anger in the 12 months I've had it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Makes sense now! Looks like a good unit so hopefully it performs just as well.

[Rocket55]

Nice winch mate, I've got the same one sitting in the front of my wagon.

[threedogs]

Very nice, they do a great winch LOL
Should do a group buy on the rope terminal fitting,
I know Snake Racing do them but that looks better some how.

this may be helpfull but others would know more about it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Winch-24v-turbo-booster-box-High-Mount-12-volt-to-24-volt-warn-hi-mount-runva-/131570973542?hash=item1ea23dbb66:g:Dd8AAOSwyQtVwIV 4

[Hodge]

As Jimmy cliff would say, many wires to cross lol .

Just began this adventure and finding a suitable spot to send connectors through the firewall isn't easy. Usually the big grommet under brake booster for smaller wires but this will test me.
Also making sure the boost tube isn't pinched .

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/86.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

[Hodge]

Afternoon spent wiring the gauge up. As it sits now everything is ready to go just waiting for a new water sensor tomorrow morning, and getting the EGT bung tapped to suit the probe thread. And then shes a goer !!

Also as per Mudskis advice, I have now got a 1/8NPT coolant sensor coming tomorrow morning, and I picked up a NPT to Metric reducer, so the sensor should go nicely.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63249&stc=1

Big mess of wires...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63244&stc=1

Gauge fitted to the pillar pod and neatly terminated end cables.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63245&stc=1

Cables protected.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63246&stc=1

2 wires to pickup the Park light positive and the dimmer switch negative.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63247&stc=1

And we have a working gauge (no sensors plugged in at this stage)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63248&stc=1

[Rocket55]

Looking good!

[Hodge]

Looking good!

Thanks mate. Yeah slowly getting there. After this I'm attacking the cooling system (or getting it attacked) lol. At least now I'll be able to compare before and after.

[mudski]

Don't ya love wiring... Once its all done you'll have something else to worry about. Whats happening on those bloody gauges! Lol.

[Hodge]

Once its all done you'll have something else to worry about. Whats happening on those bloody gauges! Lol.

Funny isn't it. I got rid of the 3L, so I don't have to worry about that sort of stuff.... And here I am putting in monitoring devices on a 4.2 .... Ironic !

[Hodge]

Just confirming with those with a stock ic, teeing off this little hose at the back is accurate enough? ??

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/87.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

[nissannewby]

Yep thats fine mate for your boost gauge.

[Hodge]

Yep thats fine mate for your boost gauge.

Thanks Mat !!
Nearly there.

[Hodge]

Redarc receiver box, mounted nice and close entry grommet, right hand side foot well. Looks factory almost.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63253&stc=1

[Hodge]

EGT probr fitted, so at this stage I have the boost and EGT readings.... Quick run around town and nothing drastic, boost maxes out at around 10 ? Cruising it sits 5-7 from what I can see. EGT's so far maxed out at 300C. My needle starts at 250C and it sits there 98% of the time so far. I really had to give it to the car to get the needle to move and then it hit 350 briefly, resting on 300 and dropping again quiet quickly. Not sure on how accuracy of this , I expected more tbh. HOwever it is early days as it's only been an hour since probe fitting and a quick 20 minute drive. And that is no towing or highway driving yet.

Waiting on the car to really cool down so I can pop that m12 bolt out of the thermosat and fit the sensor. Hoping coolant doesnt come gushing out...

[threedogs]

Park up hill in case it does maybe , and trim that cable tie
with a blade I hate getting cut by those short ends. lol

[Hodge]

It is uphill , my drives is like that unfortunately. But in this case it may prove a positive. lol
I have a lot of unfinished cable ties on the car as it is currently a cabling worksite.

[jff45]

If you want to avoid a mess, drop the coolant level by opening the tap under the radiator.
Parking uphill won't change much with your heater hoses higher than the radiator.

[Hodge]

Another small hurdle the sensor was super tight to get into the adapter, even though it was a correct thread .
Had to drill and open the adapter a bit so the tapered bit of the sensor probe would fit .
But even then only 3mm of probe is sticking through . Wonder if this will be enough to pick up temperature OK? ??

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/90.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

[nissannewby]

It should be fine. An aftermarket gauge is good to yse in conjunction with the factory unit. You will get to know what temps it runs at and then moniter it. Usually the part of the probe that does all the work is in the very tip anyway.

As for putting it in just leave the rad caps on and you will only lose a small amount. And be quick :p.

[nissannewby]

Did they give you some sealing washers with those fittings?

[Rossco]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/90.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

That is a mighty fine looking beer in that pic ☺. . .

[Hodge]

Did they give you some sealing washers with those fittings?
Yeah mate they did. I am looking at a different adapter this afternoon which might be better.


Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Little tip you may or not know when using brass /alloy fitting
is to scruff up the thread so the tape doesnt turn on the threads.
Either scrape with a hacksaw blade or put the fitting in some footprints and tap on the ground.

[Hodge]

Thanks John.
Had no idea I had to do that.
It was really tight after 2 turns or so whereas another male thread went in no issues.
Picking up another adapter soon and I'll gauge it from there.
This new adapter is brass where as the blue one I have is soft metal probably ally of some sort.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

some may be tapered where others are straight threaded

[Hodge]

This bolt ain't moving. Big ass ratchet, spanner, biggish breaker bar holding a fair bit of my weight and no go...
Any more force and I'll rip the whole thermostat off or break it.
Given up for the evening. Have had a fair share of bolts and stuff really stuck on this car so far. Lol

63278

Tapatalked from S6

[Rocket55]

That sux mate. I hate swinging on things not knowing just how hard you can actually pull before stuff breaks.

[Hodge]

Yeah breaking something would be a disaster . Was hoping to have the coolant probe in tonight but oh well.

Tapatalked from S6

[mudski]

Want my rattle gun?

[nissannewby]

Yeah rattle gun. Or if you can give it a nice swift hit with a hammer before trying to crack it.

[mudski]

My little Milwaukee gun will crack it, or I have the big bertha gun which will start your motor. Lol

[Hodge]

18V Dewalt didn't move it. Lol
Will have to wait till sat morning when car cools down properly and give it another go .

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Is it possible to hit the bolt head with a hammer to shock it , start spraying CRC too
as NN says a sharp tug may be better than loading it up.

[Hodge]

Dropped a bit of crc on it last night had a spare half an hour just before and got it to move. Half turn then done it up again. At least now it's moved.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Keep the spray up to it and move it back and forward as well using the spray
sounds like its about to come free

[Hodge]

It was gonna go all the way I just put it back in because car was just turned off so didn't wanna lose hot coolant and I didn't have the sensor with me anyway .
So I'm confident the bolt is free .

Tapatalked from S6

[Hodge]

After trial and error of few adaptors and sensors , the blue adaptor is best fit as it allows the most sense probe surface poking out at coolant end.
Case dismissed. Now to plug it in one cool morning.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/110.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

[mudski]

I'm actually thinking of get the OEM plug and drilling and tapping that. Then the probe will be further in. As I reckon my temps are false. They are hotter than it actually is. Because of the sender sitting out so much its soaking more radiant engine heat than coolant.

[nissannewby]

How do you know its hotter than it really is?

[Hodge]

I'm actually thinking of get the OEM plug and drilling and tapping that. Then the probe will be further in. As I reckon my temps are false. They are hotter than it actually is. Because of the sender sitting out so much its soaking more radiant engine heat than coolant.

You talking about drilling the original blanking bolt ? I thought about that, but once you drill big enough hole/thread for the probe, there ain't much meat left on the side walls. Unless you're talking about something different ?

Mat was right earlier, the main sensor thingie is at the very tip, as far as my quick google search has revealed ...
It'll be hard to gauge whats accurate and whats not, as there is nothing to compare it to. Wish if somehow you could pickup the readings from the factory probes in a numerical way.

[nissannewby]

You might be able to on yours hodge. The td42ti engines run an ecu. You can wire a scan gauge or similar in to them to see whats going on.

[Hodge]

Just ordered ECU / USB / Consult cable thingie !

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63314&stc=1

[threedogs]

Does that give you engine temps[water]?

[Hodge]

Does that give you engine temps[water]?

Yes, and a few other things on a 4.2Tdi only.

[threedogs]

Im going to use one of these in the top hose for extra water temps
Ill put the sender underneath so it in coolant all the time

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-Genuine-Water-Temp-Sender-Adapter-Black-38mm-NEW-/131552338762?hash=item1ea121634a:g:X-QAAOSwU~FWDzOF

[Hodge]

Not a bad idea mate . So you literally cut the rad. hose and fit that in between ? Never seen that before, would have maybe been more favorable than what I'm doing.

Those guys/eBay shop you linked, are on Allied drive, in Tulla. Been there before.

[jff45]

Yes, and a few other things on a 4.2Tdi only.

You should be able to read everything that the Nissan Consult readers can.

There was a thread on the other forum where a guy connected a cheap Windows 8 tablet from Coles to an Ecutalk cable.
He then all the info on gauges in front of him.
That means water temp gauge, voltmeter, etc and a bunch of other stuff specific to TD42Ti.

Personally, I prefer the Ecutalk readout with all the info on it. I use it for my TD42T engine temp, volts and TPS.
You could throw your temp gauge away if you get that.

[mudski]

You should be able to read everything that the Nissan Consult readers can.

There was a thread on the other forum where a guy connected a cheap Windows 8 tablet from Coles to an Ecutalk cable.
He then all the info on gauges in front of him.
That means water temp gauge, voltmeter, etc and a bunch of other stuff specific to TD42Ti.

Personally, I prefer the Ecutalk readout with all the info on it. I use it for my TD42T engine temp, volts and TPS.
You could throw your temp gauge away if you get that.
You read my mind John. I was wondering if i could use an Ecu talk. I should have kept mine...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[gubigfish]

How can you tell if you have one of these motors? Is it specified on the firewall VIN plate?

[Stropp]

How can you tell if you have one of these motors? Is it specified on the firewall VIN plate?

Yeh mate that's what yours is 4.2 turbo diesel intercooled 😎

[Hodge]

You read my mind John. I was wondering if i could use an Ecu talk. I should have kept mine...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Just check if yours can take it as ecutalk site says Tdi only.

Tapatalked from S6

[jff45]

You read my mind John. I was wondering if i could use an Ecu talk. I should have kept mine...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

There's a lot of info I no longer get (nor need) on mine such as timing & MAF, O2, etc. anything that related to EFI but I'm happy to get real engine temps & volts without having to add gauges & sensors. I also used it to set my TPS and it will show if my TPS has an issue.
Other big advantage for me is that I can still do full auto trans diagnostics via Ecutalk.

[gubigfish]

Ok next dumb question where is the port to plug in the cable

[threedogs]

Should be under the steering coloumn

[nissannewby]

Just at the edge of the plastic trim that is under the steering wheel. Its a white plug.

[mudski]

Bugger. now I want an ECU talk again to read my water temps...

[Hodge]

Bugger. now I want an ECU talk again to read my water temps...
Did you read my post above does yours have provision for that ?

Workmates 2002 4.2 doesn't. It's not a tdi.

Just in case you buy it lol

Tapatalked from S6

[jff45]

Bugger. now I want an ECU talk again to read my water temps...

Did you keep your ZD30 ECU in place during the conversion?

[threedogs]

@ Eric does your centre,, console right of the gear stick have any switches there?

[Hodge]

@ Eric does your centre,, console right of the gear stick have any switches there?

Yeah mate. That antenna switch is doing nothing. It'll be replace with front locker switch early next month...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/121.jpg



Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

You just mounted the switches ,,I brought the inserts that the switches fit in.
Good to see there is enough depth for switches, Thanks for that>
Read Stropp's thread on the Ecu-Talk when you get time.
Putting 3 there too, winch isolation switch, front locker and compressor

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARB-Carling-Type-Boat-Caravan-Rocker-Switch-Panel-Housing-Patrol-Holder-Assembly-/311437810389?var=&hash=item488323dad5:m:mtFAALvKejXGB9Y2A_83Wrw

I used these Baintech Volt gauges to monitor my start and Aux battery,
the other is on the other side of the head unit, IMO I think its a waste putting a
volt gauge in the pillar pod
AND If you dont smoke or use the ash tray you can make
a new lid and fit some more gauges there

[mudski]

Ashtray is good for coins Johnny! And some spare fuses...

[Hodge]

Not very happy with this setup of having an adapter. It limits the insertion of the probe as close to the centre of the pipe as possible. The way mine sits now is 5mm past the dump pipe wall at best. I don't think it's accurate because I really have to hammer my car and load it up to see it move past 300C. I think the temps go way beyond that.

Might just drill a hole and get the bung that arrived with the probe welded on and block of the original bung hole beaudesert welded on.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63415&stc=1

[Rocket55]

That's no good mate, lug it up a hill in 3rd or 4th and you should see the temps cruise past 300.

[Rocket55]

After trial and error of few adaptors and sensors , the blue adaptor is best fit as it allows the most sense probe surface poking out at coolant end.
Case dismissed. Now to plug it in one cool morning.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/110.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

How did you go about running that plug (either end) through the firewall? I've got a VDO temp gauge here with the Thermo couple permanently attached and just wondering where the best place to get that through the firewall is.

[mudski]

You can feed it through where the main loom goes into the cab from the engine bay on the firewall.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Tap the threads out further hodge. By running a tap down them so the adaptor and probe fitting nearly bottom out. This will get you in nearly 10mm further.

You could also get a in hex plug and drill and tap it so you can get even further in.

[mudski]

Another thing for that bung too Eric. Cut it flush to the pipe. There will still be enough thread there for the adaptor. I remember now doing that when i had the 3ltr.
I have a Dremel here you can use. But you just need to get some more cutting discs for it. As i used them all last week. They wear down pretty fast...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

How did you go about running that plug (either end) through the firewall? I've got a VDO temp gauge here with the Thermo couple permanently attached and just wondering where the best place to get that through the firewall is.
I ran mine from engine bay into the cab white plug end (gauge) first as the plug isn't that big. I used the big grommet next to the main loom close to brake booster. Coat hanger does the trick.

Tapatalked from S6

[Rocket55]

That's how I normally get through as well, but the thermo coupling is about 10mm in diameter. I might tape and then shrink wrap it onto my coat hanger wire to try and protect it a bit.

[Hodge]

Yeah I run good smooth layer of tape up and down the whole join and then lube it up to easy it in.
That grommet there on my car is getting quiet busy.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

You saying you've lost your water tight seal lo
Have you been able to solve the coupling depth.??l
On the pic on post 394 Id cut that brass fitting in half that will give you 8-10mm
Plus cut the bung as suggested and that'll solve the problem IMO

[Hodge]

More goodies !!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/152.jpg

Tapatalked from S6

[Bacho86]

Geeze mate what's everyone going to get you for Christmas if you're getting everything now!! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

forgot to tell you I have plenty of diff breather kits here , bummer
a lot cheaper too Id think

Are those yellow discs for the top of the coils???

[Hodge]

Geeze mate what's everyone going to get you for Christmas if you're getting everything now!! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plenty of goodies from other people. This was a few of my own treats for my self! lol


forgot to tell you I have plenty of diff breather kits here , bummer
a lot cheaper too Id think

Are those yellow discs for the top of the coils???

It's ok I don't pay full price for these anyway. And yeah they are for the front coils but go under them. 10mm spacers. I need a bit of front uplift so it doesn't road sniff as much.

[Hodge]

How hard is it drop a spring enough to slide a spacer underneath without the spring compressor ? I just need enough to slide the spacer underneath...
Had a quick look before and might be interesting getting enough without taking too many components out.
Raise car from front diff and support on stands, undo the shocks top or bottom ??? Disconnect sway bars and pahard rod and slowly lower axle ??

[happygu]

How hard is it drop a spring enough to slide a spacer underneath without the spring compressor ? I just need enough to slide the spacer underneath...
Had a quick look before and might be interesting getting enough without taking too many components out.
Raise car from front diff and support on stands, undo the shocks top or bottom ??? Disconnect sway bars and pahard rod and slowly lower axle ??

The fronts are the hardest, and the springs may need a little manual help to remove.

I never use spring compressors, and that may make it easier, but I found that if I disconnected all the bits you mentioned, I could then let the axle end down as far as possible on its own, and if that wasnt quite enough, I put my hydraulic jack in between the chassis and axle, and then by extending the jack, force the axle down further, and the spring pops out quite easy.

The other bonus with the OME spacers, is that they quieten down the springs when they twist a little under compression and extension and you dont get the usual Patrol boooiiing from the passenger corner . You will love them

Mic

[nissannewby]

Undo shocks. Unbolt manifold for brake lines off diff. Place chassis on stands. Undo sway bar from diff. Remove wheels. Lower diff as far as required.

Undo shocks at bottom easier to get at.

[Hodge]

Thanks fellas !!!!
I'll have a go tomorrow. Just need a bit more up front, especially after winch was fitted.

[Rocket55]

I cheated a bit last time, when you jack it up to put the stands under the chassis, jack it up by the axle and compress the front spring a bit, then just put your spring compressor on and nip them up. Put your stands under the chassis and then lower the axle, the sprig is now held at a slightly shorter length, might save dissconnecting a heap of stuff. Especially if you're on;y looking for a bit to slip a spacer in.

[Hodge]

Fitted the spacers today. Using rockets trick, compress the springs using the car/jack combo, clamp on coil clamps, then raise the chassis and drop axle. Bit fiddly but done the trick in the end. Really need to get a larger jack... But bits of timber for extra height helped .

Also while under there noticed a wet oil patch where engine and gearbox sandwich. Not dripping but definitely moist with oil. (pictures below). Rear main seal ??



http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63484&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63483&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63482&stc=1

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63486&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63485&stc=1

[Rocket55]

Nice work mate. Question though, the spacers I bought last time went on top of the springs?? Love the yellow by the way :)

The oil you refer to could also just be excess from removing the oil filters that slowly makes it's way down and around the back of the block. Mine actually has some foam in that gap around the bolt ends and it's fillted with oil. When I first saw the oil on mine I thought the worst, then I noticed how much worse it was after I successfully completed a messy oil change, I then felt much better.

[Hodge]

Hmmm It's been about 2 and a half months since oil change what are the odds of some still lingering around that area lol.


As for the spacers, these are designed to go at the bottom. Fits perfectly around that rubber cup thingamajig sitting at the bottom of the spring on the seat.

[Rocket55]

Hmm, 2.5 months is a while. Clean it up and see how it goes.

[nissannewby]

A rear main will for the most part leak. Like leave a small puddle or at least quite a few drops on the ground. Oil can hang around very well. Usually a good degrease or soaking with brake cleaner after a service will help.

[Hodge]

Cheers. Have degreased it before and will leave to try and monitor it. There were no drops of oil, on ground or on the car, that area , especially around that first wet bolt you can see was very moist in what looked like "fresh" batch of oil.
Will keep an eye on it.

[Hodge]

So bit of an update to that "maybe" leak. I degreased it yesterday morning and it got rid of most of the oil / grease hanging around that spot. I'm sitting on 50/50 whether it's back or not.
It seems to be weeping ever ever so slightly from the points in red squares on the photo... On the photo inside the bottom red square you can see that seal ? Has opened up a little bit and a tiny bit as well around the top one too. Now to me those bolts/nuts look very very new. Something was done during previous ownership? Who knows.

It almost looks like they have been over tightened making nut cave that plate in a bit, thus lifting the bottom up a bit ??
Don't know maybe too much overthinking now. Will keep an eye out on it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63512&stc=1

Also while under there I spotted a very badly corroded pump. This matches the state the underbody of the whole car was before it was sprayed. Should I go nuts with lanolin or something ????

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63513&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Pull the bung out which is smack bang in the middle of those 2 bolts. If oil comes out of there then it might be your resr main.

[Hodge]

Pull the bung out which is smack bang in the middle of those 2 bolts. If oil comes out of there then it might be your resr main.

Is it that little tab with SA stamped on it or whatever? Just pulls out?

[threedogs]

I'd be putting on a sperm suit and cranking up the Gernie and lay underneath
and give it a decent squirt then Lanotec /fish oil the begeesus out of it.
Why all the corrosion, is it a coastal vehicle? or mine?

[Hodge]

The bloke I bought it off from SA used it lots for beach fishing etc...
This is what it looked like before the makeover. Most of everything was treated / sprayed with the POR15 chassis / paint / rust convertor. But under hood was mostly untouched. There are some signs of corossion, injector pump being one of them ...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63515&stc=1

[nissannewby]

Is it that little tab with SA stamped on it or whatever? Just pulls out?

Yeah it should. Its an interference fit but should come out. It tends to get siliconed in if anyone has ever done the clutch.

[Hodge]

Yeah it should. Its an interference fit but should come out. It tends to get siliconed in if anyone has ever done the clutch.

Thanks again mate ! Will give it a go tomorrow. Just spoke to another bloke who used to have a 4.2TDi and he had similar circumstances. Supposedly there i something called "damper"sponge" sits between the gearbox and the engine ??? And MAY collect oil after changes and sit there for ages. I think this is what rocket was talking about ... Will suss it out.

[nissannewby]

Yours is missing the "sponge" you describe. Unless you have removed it for the pic you posted.

[Hodge]

Yours is missing the "sponge" you describe. Unless you have removed it for the pic you posted.

I see. I removed nothing. What you see in the photo is how I found it. I assumed it would have been sandwiched in there?

[nissannewby]

I see. I removed nothing. What you see in the photo is how I found it. I assumed it would have been sandwiched in there?

Yes it would have been. Sometimes there is foam/sponge between the engine and the brackets that attach engine to bellhousing on the lower half.

[Hodge]

I guess when I pull that plug tomorrow I'll find out. Do you think I'll have to renew it or just shove it back in?

If oil ends up coming out, and assuming it is the rear main, how detrimental is it to get on top of it, providing that it wasn't dripping out / leaking big time. It is really just oil mist at this stage ... ?

I've been checking the oil weekly and have noticed no drop.

[nissannewby]

Just shove it back in. If your worried put some rtv on it prior to fitting.

I dont think it will be your rear main. On the slight chance it is just monitor it. As your not losing any oil I think it will be fine.

Oil is very good at finding places to hide. You can degrease then drive it and the heat thins the oil allowing it to seep out again. But if its not dripping I dont think you have a problem.

[jay see]

As your not losing any oil I think it will be fine.

But if its not dripping I dont think you have a problem.

I wouldn't worry to much about it.
Weeping won't cause you any problems.
Just monitor the driveway for any drips over the next few weeks.

[Bacho86]

When my rear main went couple months back, it was all of a sudden and a very constant drip onto the ground - very noticeable. Yours looks good I comparison


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Ok tried to get the bung out Mat told me about, and struggled. As Mat mentioned maybe previous work got it silliconed in. Gave it a few goes and failed. Then it got too warm so I'll leave it for a cooler day. The oil/oil mist amount around that area hasn't changed or got worse.

Plugged the temp. sensor in finally yesterday. And I'm not really sure but my gauge doesn't go over 70C. That was the Max I've seen it. Just came back from a 25 minute drive, and it is already 32-33C, even with aircon on, didn't go above 70C. This is too good to be true so something is up.
Rod (Rocket) had similar max temps so. I don't know ...
My ECU Talk cable didn't arrive yet so I cannot compare the temps to my factory sensor yet...

[threedogs]

is 70c your water temp,??
most gauges work with half gauge being normal

[Hodge]

is 70c your water temp,??
most gauges work with half gauge being normal

My secondary after market gauge reads 70 max. It sits between 67-70 when fully warmed up this morning.
The max is way too low. So don't know if it's the gauge, or the sensor isn't in the right spot or not penetrating deep enough ... Will sort it out in the new year when it cools down a bit.
The factory gauge once again sits a few mm below half way mark and sits there not moving...

[nissannewby]

Its is probably ok hodge. The temps are fine and in the conditions your thermostat is most likely not having to open all the way. The thermostats temp setting can be very vague. Although they it could be a 76 degree one it could be 5-10 degrees out from that.

As long as the temps are stable and its not getting hot i think it will be fine.

[jay see]

Interested to know what degree thermostat your using.
Doesn't a thermostat begin to open when the water temperature gets to that degree.

[Hodge]

Thanks Mat. I know it's fine and temps are low, I'm just puzzled why its showing 70 max. I mean surely this thing runs in the high 80s especially day like today. Hope the ECU talk cable arrives soon so that I can compare the pair.

[Hodge]

Interested to know what degree thermostat your using.
Doesn't a thermostat begin to open when the water temperature gets to that degree.

I have no idea, I'm assuming it is the factory one ... Will find out when I gut the cooling system in the next few weeks and/or get the rear main done depending on the findings.

[jay see]

If this is that low it is it too low?
Engines need to operate at an optimum temperature.

[Hodge]

If this is that low it is it too low?
Engines need to operate at an optimum temperature.

I believe so yeah, don't know what the optimum temps are, or minimum optimum running temps.

I think it's something to do with the gauge / sensor. When it cools a bit later I'll pull the sensor out and teste in known water temps, backed up by 2 thermometers I have here.

[jay see]

I believe so yeah, don't know what the optimum temps are, or minimum optimum running temps.

I think it's something to do with the gauge / sensor. When it cools a bit later I'll pull the sensor out and teste in known water temps, backed up by 2 thermometers I have here.

I've did it with a portable stove on my old 4x4. Pot of water bringing it up to boil with eye on gauge and on thermometer.

[threedogs]

Thanks Mat. I know it's fine and temps are low, I'm just puzzled why its showing 70 max. I mean surely this thing runs in the high 80s especially day like today. Hope the ECU talk cable arrives soon so that I can compare the pair.

Mine takes a very long time for the temps to get to 85 maybe a 15 k drive,
Thats on the Ecu[talk the factory gauge shows less than half about 1/3rd after
3Ks.
Being a very hot day I would have thought 85-87 would be the norm.

[nissannewby]

Have a look in your owners manual. What does it say about operating temp and the factory gauge?

[Hodge]

Owners book doesn't mention specific temps. Only shows whats normal on the gauge and whats "oh shit" range.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63545&stc=1

[nissannewby]

So your right in the middle of the normal range? No problem that I can see. The problem with the factory gauge is it can take quite a variance in temperature before it starts to show its getting towards hot. By having the aftermarket one in there you can see what the temp is doing. Although it may read slightly low at normal temp you might see 90 degrees or even 100 degrees before the factory gauge moves. Now that you can see what the temps are doing you can alter your driving accordingly before it gets to high. With only the factory gauge by the time it moves it could be to late and you may need to stop to let it cool etc.

[Rocket55]

I took mine for a spin out to Bathurst and back yesterday, 250km each way up over the Great Dividing Range and basically it sat between 65-75 the whole way. Out near Lithgow on the back of the ranges there's a section that's 110km, so 110 I did straight up the hill in 5th at about 20 psi. EGT's were about 400 air temp about 25 and the VDO gauge made it to 80. If this is true I'm seriously happy as the hill was about 1km long. Coming home there is a couple of long up hill pulls, realatively steep, pre mods this had me back to 4th full throtle and dropping back to about 85-90km, so this time up I go in 5th at about 105km, accelerated beyond that a few times to pass cars, temps got up to around 80-85, air temp high 20's. PS: loving the power... Cruising down the hill saw temps around 60-65 quite often, occasionally going to 70. I've read lots of reports of these things running mid to high 90's just cruising along at 100-110, at these speeds on the flat I'm barely seeing 70. So I'm really stumped on whether the gauge is reading right or it's just running nice and cool. I fear the first is true, whilst secretely hoping for the second.

[threedogs]

I reckon Cuppa could add another temp for you.

[jff45]

Rod, in my opinion, either your gauge isn't reading correctly or there's an issue with your thermostat. If you have a 77 degree thermostat, for example, your temps shouldn't go below that once you're at operating temperature.
It's the thermostat's job to maintain temps, at least, at its rated temperature. When it can't, temps rise.

I have a new 77* Tridon thermostat, new Ebay alloy rad, new genuine water pump. My temps hover around 79-80 90% of the time.
As I've just installed the engine and haven't yet done 2000 kms with it, I'm watching my Ecutalk constantly. By far the most common temp I see when I glance at it is 79*.

[Hodge]

Cooler day this morning so my redarc gauge now read between 60-65°C. Compared to the other day when it was 40°C ambient and it maxed out at 70°C.

So, I Just tested the gauge/sensor in water, up against 3 different thermometers across 3 different temperature ranges.
They were all within 1°C of each other. The redarc gauge is accurate within to 0.5°C on average...

So, I'm happy that my engine maybe running that cool..... but puzzled, how the hell can my coolant no go above 70°C, on a 40°C day ..... Surely the cooling system of this thing cannot be that good. Even with thermostat fully open...

Now i'm really looking forward to my ECU talk arriving.

[threedogs]

What is the temp range of the thermostat you have in now??
That would be your starting point.
Also grab a thermo gun and point it to the top tank
see what that reads.
Thats what Norm from Aussie coolers did when I was having trouble with my conversion,
I have one here and very accurate IMO

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Neu-Original-Non-Contact-Laser-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature-Gun-GM700-GM900-/121531509458?var=&hash=item1c4bd7aad2:m:myNeM6AWOiYoaz-sRlo-u8Q

[jff45]

Cooler day this morning so my redarc gauge now read between 60-65°C. Compared to the other day when it was 40°C ambient and it maxed out at 70°C.

So, I Just tested the gauge/sensor in water, up against 3 different thermometers across 3 different temperature ranges.
They were all within 1°C of each other. The redarc gauge is accurate within to 0.5°C on average...

So, I'm happy that my engine maybe running that cool..... but puzzled, how the hell can my coolant no go above 70°C, on a 40°C day ..... Surely the cooling system of this thing cannot be that good. Even with thermostat fully open...

Now i'm really looking forward to my ECU talk arriving.

It sounds like your sensor isn't picking up the correct water temp.

If you have, for example, a 77 degree thermostat and it feels your temp at 60-65, it will start to close again to keep more water circulating in the block to bring the temps back up again.

[threedogs]

John Bennett used to put the thermostat housing in the bottom hose, tempted to do
it myself and easy enough to do these days,
as It gave a truer reading. Probe could be in an air pocket , heaps of things
could be wrong, but you need to know what thermostat is in it ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38MM-OR-1-1-2-INCH-ALUMINUM-WATER-TEMPERATURE-TEMP-SENSOR-HOUSING-HOLDER-BLUE-/261811371577?hash=item3cf52c7e39:g:i5EAAOSwLa9UXRB 8

[Rocket55]

There might be something in this. Did you install your sender unit here?

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j396/Rocket5555/Build%20Pics%20Patrol/5D187C70-F4CF-4A0F-9906-812EB6C311B5_zpsddgwhmoj.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Rocket5555/media/Build%20Pics%20Patrol/5D187C70-F4CF-4A0F-9906-812EB6C311B5_zpsddgwhmoj.jpg.html)

If so, yours is reading pretty much exactly the same temps as mine. I think yours is an electric guage mines a capilary one and a different brand. So two different types and brands are reading the same thing, you've verified yours is working correctly, yet it's reading low. It can't be getting a true temp from that position. I think using the adaptor keeps the tip of the sender unit too far back and it must be in an "eddy" in the coolant flow, with the nice hot coolant flying past a bit further out.

I'm off tomorrow on holidays and will have my 3 tonne van in tow (probably closer to 4T with the wife and our two girls gear they packed....) so I'll see what it reads then, especially when the temp gauge starts to head north, should be 105-110 then.

[Hodge]

Yep that's exactly where mine is as well. I'll let it rest until my ecu talk arrives to see what the factory sensor is saying... If theyre the same, well farkk me... lol

[Hodge]

Alrighty, started ordering the bits and pieces for the cooling overhaul. I have found 2 different gaskets with 2 different part numbers... One is greenish and the other metallic ?

I am unsure of the difference ? Anybody know ? Following pictures will explain all.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63616&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63617&stc=1

[Hodge]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63618&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63619&stc=1

[Hodge]

Just spoke to Mudski and they're both the same but different and both papery type........But either will work. :bananadancing:

[bsteveo]

Joining the party late (as always) but loving this 4.2. Gets me g'd up to start doing everything I want to my series 4.

Sent from my HTC_0PKV1 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

To be honest Eric i think your wasting your time replacing the thermostat if your temps are good. If your temps weren't, you will know, then it would be worth it.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

I figured I'd change it while everything is apart. The car is just nearly 100k sitting on 96 like, so soon. Belts as well, hoses ..
Preventative shit.

Tapatalked from S6

[mudski]

Yeah fair enough.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[bsteveo]

PS: I'm a fan of the VDO gauges, super easy to ready, accurate, relatively cheap by comparison and easy on the eyes of a night time.

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j396/Rocket5555/Build%20Pics%20Patrol/C163A771-7E23-4BD5-BC77-D744D8A5AD42_zps9hdewjyy.jpg (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Rocket5555/media/Build%20Pics%20Patrol/C163A771-7E23-4BD5-BC77-D744D8A5AD42_zps9hdewjyy.jpg.html)
I'm really keen on these, finding them for around $280-290 for egt and boost set with all required hookups.

Sent from my HTC_0PKV1 using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Why not use those billet senders and fit it to the bottom hose,
that will give you a more accurate reading IMO

[mudski]

Why not use those billet senders and fit it to the bottom hose,
that will give you a more accurate reading IMO

Just another place for something to go wrong/ leak I reckon. The less joins and clamps the better....

[Hodge]

I'm really keen on these, finding them for around $280-290 for egt and boost set with all required hookups.

Sent from my HTC_0PKV1 using Tapatalk
Yeah they are nice, they're Rods *rocket55* . If I didn't have my redarc vdo would have been the go.

Tapatalked from S6

[threedogs]

Just another place for something to go wrong/ leak I reckon. The less joins and clamps the better....

John Bennett says thats the best postion for the thermostat as well.
John Bennett designed the cooling system for all the V8 supercars
as well as most modern Aust built cars,
There is nothing this guy does not know about cooling systems
If it leaks you've done it wrong IMO.
A complete cooling system from him would be $400 for a hi-flow
water pump , he removes the tin pressed fan and replaces it with a bronze impellor
Die grinds any area cavitation could occur. He had systems to suit the petrol & Diesel
Patrols. sadly retired now, wish he was still working he is a one in a million type of guy
FYI megstexture has one in his top hose and had it in for years now without any problems

[jff45]

I'm afraid I have to disagree with the temp sensor in the bottom hose of a TD42.
If the thermostat sticks closed, you'll have little to no coolant circulating through the radiator and the bottom hose will have a low temp reading while the coolant coming from the head could be then boiling.
The current location of the TD42 temp sensors is in the path of the coolant coming from the head so it reads the hottest possible before it goes through the radiator.

[threedogs]

Here some data , too bad no one has heard of him outside Vic
http://www.climtechsolutions.com/improved-engine-efficiency-water-pass-system-john-bennett/
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/11198-john-bennet-where-are-you/

you throw away what you know about water cooled engines this guy it the Ducks nuts on all things water cooled
A lot of modern engines have adopted the thermostat in the lower hose from John's findings

[Hodge]

Bottom hose is straight out of radiator which would be "cooled" coolant. I mean logically if the coolant coming OUT of the radiator is hot enough for the thermo to open, imagine how hot the coolant is coming out of the block ?
On a TD42 that would just be asking for trouble IMO.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63643&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63644&stc=1

[mudski]

I was just looking at mine and i have studs on the lower housing...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/57.jpg

[threedogs]

All I can say is John wrote the bible for water cooled engines.
Its a shame no one has heard of him
Its about taking the hot spots away from the head and concentrating the heat around all cyclinders.
but enough on that it too hard to explain

[Hodge]

All I can say is John wrote the bible for water cooled engines.
Its a shame no one has heard of him
Its about taking the hot spots away from the head and concentrating the heat around all cyclinders.
but enough on that it too hard to explain

I definitely know the name mate. I have been to Dale Pattersons V8 tunning shop in tulla many times and that name was very common, there mainly to do with water pumps ?

[Hodge]

I was just looking at mine and i have studs on the lower housing...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/57.jpg

Maybe it's something JPC does when building these? Mine definitely doesn't have them.

[bsteveo]

Put a set of new shoes on. Mickey Thompson P3's in 285/75/16 on a set of black rims. Also painted the rusty hubs as it looked bad with new rims on. Just have to fix the front hubs now looks pretty shit.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62638&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62639&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62640&stc=1

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62641&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62642&stc=1

What's the wallet damage for a set of these monsters? I need a set ASAP!

[Hodge]

What's the wallet damage for a set of these monsters? I need a set ASAP!

Mate I honestly cannot remember, I'll have to find the receipt, as I got a whole lot of stuff in one go.... I'll have a rough guess @ around $340-ish a corner ??? Might be cheaper now, don't know.

[Hodge]

Happy to report that it seems for now anyway, no more oil is showing at the engine/bellhousing sandwich. So fingers crossed it stays that way. Hopefully Mat was right and it was only residual oil from the oil and filter change...

[bsteveo]

Mate I honestly cannot remember, I'll have to find the receipt, as I got a whole lot of stuff in one go.... I'll have a rough guess @ around $340-ish a corner ??? Might be cheaper now, don't know.
Better start saving then haha ! Best place for rubber in melb?

Sent from my HTC_0PKV1 using Tapatalk

[Hodge]

Another little addition to the car I "impulse" scored from Mudski this morning was this setup. Perfect and exactly how I wanted my back setup. Just gotta carpet it and shes ready to go.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63770&stc=1

[Bacho86]

Nice one mate, you blokes don't muck around that's for sure!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Impulse buys are great....

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[ashhunter]

Good looking rig. Have the 3L and am keen to try a 4.2 as I hear they perform well, however, the 3L has not left me stranded yet, although lacks power on the highway

[Hodge]

So I went about carpetting and modifying the rear draws / fridge system that I got from Mudski. In the end I ended up tapering the front upper area to suit the tapered patrol's rear draws. I carpetted the whole lot , and in the end removed the draw and little slide out table (which i can add back on at any time). I like it the way it is. Not a fan of the draw.

For a non carpetter and non carpenter I'm impressed how it all turned out.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63862&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63863&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63864&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63865&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63866&stc=1

[threedogs]

Looks great lol
Dont need a vent hole at the back of the fridge cavity, gunna get hot in there

[Hodge]

There is a hole with a fan I am yet to cut the carpet out for that. The fan will be wired with the compressor maybe so when it is running it'll kick in.

Tapatalked from S6

[Bacho86]

Nice work mate, looks like a vey tidy job!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[David reeve]

Nice patrol mate

[Hodge]

Fitted the rear unit in the car. Very very happy !!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63893&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63894&stc=1

Extension bracket added for the child seat. And cargo barrier brackets will use the same bolt holding the unit down.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63895&stc=1

Now just to take out the rear belts and figure out how to best utilize the bolts area previously used for the seats. Might make a plate or something and just cover it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63896&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63897&stc=1

[jay see]

Fitted the rear unit in the car. Very very happy !!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63893&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63894&stc=1

Extension bracket added for the child seat. And cargo barrier brackets will use the same bolt holding the unit down.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63895&stc=1

Now just to take out the rear belts and figure out how to best utilize the bolts area previously used for the seats. Might make a plate or something and just cover it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63896&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63897&stc=1

Very nice....

Someone here maybe Threedogs, has a plate to put over where the seats use to be.

[threedogs]

Yes I have cover plates Eric any colour you want.
you can then bolt on old tie down points , well thats what ive done
comes in handy tying gear down
Plus just poke the belts back down that top slot

this may be handy too
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/361348194412?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Hodge]

Thanks John. I knew someone had them a while ago... I'll grab a set. SMS-ed ya.

[mudski]

Wow looking good mate!
Those plates from John is what your after... as for the seat belts. Easiest thing to do is remove the belt guide in the trim, and tuck the entire belt in behind the panel and clip the trim back on.

[Hodge]

Does anybody know, does it matter which way the hoses go onto the vacuum tank picture here on right? Can I swap the hoses ? Or does it have to flow the way it is ?

Cheers.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=64168&stc=1

[Bloodyaussie]

Doesn't matter..

[Hodge]

Doesn't matter..

Thanking you sir ! Tidying up the dual battery wiring and swapping those hoses will help lots . cheers.

[Bloodyaussie]

Thanking you sir ! Tidying up the dual battery wiring and swapping those hoses will help lots . cheers.

I just redid all my vacuum hoses and moved the tank a bit the other day.. much better vacuum pressure now.

[Hodge]

Funny one...
The Runva Premium winch I originally ordered early december, got cancelled on me due to no stock till way beyond christmas. The shop then refunded me a portion of the cost and sent me a normal Runva 11XP.
Get a call from a storeman at my work just before asking me why I'm not picking up my winch... it arrived early this week. lol
For some reason even though order was cancelled they still sent out the premium one, when stock arrived. I'll do the right thing and call them, let them know whats happened.

[Bloodyaussie]

It would have been tempting I'll bet... good boy though.

[Hodge]

I'll be honest, it never even crossed my mind not to get in touch with them, however I will talk to them about some sort of a deal as after all this is the original winch I wanted and the one I have is a brand spanker and never used... Apart from pulling an axle back in line lol.

Watch this space.

[Clunk]

Awwww you're a good bloke ;)

[Rocket55]

Nice work Eric, a couple of great updates.

[Kimbo63]

Nice truck Hodge can't wait to get my wagon back however I still love my 06 4.2 Tdi ute clunks and all lol

Ps where did you score the Nissan patrol.com.au sticker from?