No more GU IV genuine keyless entry. Installed a Dynamco Cyclops controller.

Hi all,

Disregard the previous post asking for a pin out for the central locking control module. It's gone.

I was a bit sick of the short range of the factory remote, and I'd drowned one and was looking at the cost of replacements and decided to go down a different track.

An afternoon with a multimeter, a couple of beers and some head scratching, a visit to Jeff (East Coast Auto Electrical) for a second opinion and it's done. The central locking on the GU is now controlled by a Dynamco Cyclops P275. They're Australian made, really reliable, spare remotes are cheap & easy to get and the unit with two remotes cost half of what it was going to cost to replace one factory remote.

The unit I installed is one of these:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/02/36.jpg
Dynamco Cyclops P275

I was going to use one of these
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/02/37.jpg
KE-CLR-TX90 Keyless entry system but Jeff had the other in stock and I might end up hooking up the immobiliser feature later.

There was a bit of mucking around involved. The GU keyless entry triggers aren't straightforward. Rather than just taking a negative pulse to trigger lock or unlock, they actually alternate the polarity across the actuators. Also triggering the indicators to provide visual confirmation requires an additional relay.

All the connections required can be found in the keyless entry model plug. Along with the kit you also need a standard relay and some diodes for the indicators, and two SPDT relays to drive the central locking.

The glove box comes out first - about 8 screws and it and it's surround just comes away then the module is in above the cavity between the glove box & the stereo. If in doubt push the unlock button & listen for the clicking.

I'll have to draw a few diagrams to explain wiring it up if anyone's interested.

I don't really have a use for the old remote & controller now, so maybe ebay might pay for the new one by selling the old one. Dunno if they fit into a DX to give it central locking?

Dave

Top job and post mate - no doubt others will find it useful also!

Mate,please post any wiring diagrams or pics you have of the install.
I am sick of the "drivers door with key, central locking" and am looking at installing a remote central locking kit.
My understanding so far, is I need one remote-activated solenoid to initiated the drivers door lock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robbo0001

Mate,please post any wiring diagrams or pics you have of the install.
I am sick of the "drivers door with key, central locking" and am looking at installing a remote central locking kit.
My understanding so far, is I need one remote-activated solenoid to initiated the drivers door lock.

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Dave - if yours is an ST it should already be installed. All you have to do is get a remote fob from Nissan.

You can put in a dynamco for half the cost of a genuine fob & get two remotes though. Just involves a little more work.

Might mean you only need the controller if you already have an actuator in the drivers door.

Pull the glove box out and see if the controller is there. The drivers door lock unlock switch that does the passenger doors and locking from the drivers door lock in the handle works independently of the control module so it's hard to work out if there's an actuator in the drivers door unless you either take the door trim off or have a look for the module.

Dave (2)

Dave

I was dubious about the fact that I had "keyed central locking", and no remote entry...I will call Nissan with our VIN and see what they can tell me (won't hold my breath...).
If no response,I will rip that glove box out and see what I can find.
Thanks very much for the replies....look forward to getting an answer of some sort tomorrow.
Will update with results...
Cheers
Dave (1...?) haha

Hi Dave (1),

Third try at this. I'm at work and the pager keeps going off.

I've knocked up some drawings that should help you out.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. These will work with the units in the top of the thread, and probably other negative triggering central locking units also.

The dash lay out drawing shows the location of the unit accessed by removing the glove box.

The plug layout is viewed as if looking into the back of the plug from the cable side. (Same as looking into the connector on the Keyless Entry Controller.

There's a drawing that should give you an idea of how all the actuators are set up which I've referenced to my pin numbers for the plug.

The relay pack I made using three Bosch/Hella style 30A automotive relays. The don't need to be high current relays but the standard auto relays are cheap, easy to get & the pin numbers are a standard configuration. The ones I used are SPDT or change over relays - the ones with an 87a pin. The third relay for the indicators can be one of those & ignore the extra pin or get the standard relay (SPST).

I hope it's reasonably self explanatory but if you have questions feel free to ask.

Essentially what you have to do on the patrols is retain 12v on one side of the actuator while the relay attached to the function you want (lock/unlock) disconnects the 12v on it's side of the circuit and pulses it to ground.

The indicator circuit is required including the diodes to switch the indicators, and the diodes separate the indicator circuit the rest of the time so that your indicators behave normally rather than as hazard lights. A diode is just a device that allows current to flow in one direction & not the other. (If you haven't used them before an autoelec will have them as will Jaycar etc. The body of the diode is a cylinder with a band at one end. The band is the end of the diode that points toward the main wiring harness. ie. in the diagram ->|- on the actual device appears -[ |]-

I'll leave it for now as if the pager goes off I'll lose all this.

Dave (2)

Footnote:
Colour codes
Main/Stripe
Pin 1 - Black (Gnd)
Pin 2 - Blue (Lock)
Pin 3 - White/Red (const 12v)
Pin 4 & 5 - Green with either red or yellow strip (indicators)
Pin 8 - Blue/Red (Unlock)

The early GUs did not come with keyless entry (not sure about the TI) just central locking.

There is no door lock solenoid mounted in the driver side door.

You will need to purchase a keyless entry system and one solenoid for the drivers side door.

Mount the solenoid in the drivers side door and then wire up the keyless entry system to work this solenoid.

The same applies for GQs with central locking, if you want to have keyless entry.

Dynamco do the 1CL-001 kit which you could use with the first remote kit above.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/02/40.jpg

It may just be cheaper to get a 4CL-002 http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2012/02/6.gifwhich has the remote entry and 4 solenoids all as one kit. Give you a spare solenoid or two. Not sure which way the prices break down on that.

The connection will be slightly different. You shouldn't need the relays as they are built into the unit. You can probably get away without the indicator relay too, might need the diodes but I'm not sure until I check out the install paperwork on it.


Dave

Cheers for the posts guys....I havent contacted Nissan as yet, but was already under the impression that with one ky activated solenoid in the drivers door, that then unlocks all doors....I could get away with installing a remote activated solenoid in the drivers door, to unlock all doors.
It MAY just be a case of removing the key activated solenoid and replacing it in with the wireless unit....but until I get behind the door skin I won't know for sure.


The indicator flash feature isnt really critical, I just want to be able to get all the kids into the car, without walking round to unlock the drivers door. From what I have seen so far, a four solenoid unit may in fact be cheaper than a single solenoid unit.

Once again, thank you for the detailed posts and reference pictures...definately gives me something to start with.
Regards

You don't disconnect anything to do with the key central locking, this system needs to keep working.

You just mount a solenoid in the drivers side door and connect this to the locking rod, then wire up the keyless entry module.

How it works is, you push the button on the remote, it then activates the solenoid you fitted in the drivers door. This solenoid then moves the locking rod (just like you would do if you are manually locking or unlocking the vehicle). This then allows the genuine central locking to lock or unlock the other doors.

It doesn't matter if the Keyless entry kit comes with four solenoids you only need to fit one.

The keyless entry system should also be able to be connected to the indicator lights.

Personally I would also not get a keyless entry kit that has the automatic door locking function, I found this a real pain when out camping.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

You don't disconnect anything to do with the key central locking, this system needs to keep working.

You just mount a solenoid in the drivers side door and connect this to the locking rod, then wire up the keyless entry module.

How it works is, you push the button on the remote, it then activates the solenoid you fitted in the drivers door. This solenoid then moves the locking rod (just like you would do if you are manually locking or unlocking the vehicle). This then allows the genuine central locking to lock or unlock the other doors.

It doesn't matter if the Keyless entry kit comes with four solenoids you only need to fit one.

The keyless entry system should also be able to be connected to the indicator lights.

Personally I would also not get a keyless entry kit that has the automatic door locking function, I found this a real pain when out camping.

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How long would it take to fit mate? And when I ask that, I mean "how long would it take YOU to fit mate"?? lmao

As long as your central locking works now, an hour to hour and a half.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

As long as your central locking works now, an hour to hour and a half.

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Wow!! Thanks for the offer mate!!! lmao

But seriously, when?? lol

I'm in the same boat - be a 'nice to have' item to not have to open at the drivers door all the time ...

Get the kit and we will book in a day to fit it.

Do you not work on Fridays?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

Get the kit and we will book in a day to fit it.

Do you not work on Fridays?

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Haha - I work everyday, but let's say my job is more target driven than actual 9 to 5 (been working this morning as an example), so I'm somewhat flexible on what day and where etc outside of weekly travel interstate ...

How much are they? Did I miss that?

I'll pick one up this week ...

Hi Yendor,

You could easily fix that by wiring a hidden switch that links the 12v supply with the ignition supply when camping.

Dave

Great info thanks guys.
Cheers Andrew

Hi Guys, I had to write a quick post to thank "DaveJones" for the pin outs on the stock nissan central locking module.
I just installed a Mongoose RFID central locking system last weekend and having the wiring diagram and pin outs on the old module saved me a ton of time and hassle. Now I can just walk up to the troll and the doors open. (can also use the fob button if wanted just like a conventional system)

He a pic of the system I install:
Attachment 17239

I desoldered the factory female plug off the nissan central locking module and connected the Mongoose wiring to that effectivly making a Mongoose to nissan loom. As the Mongoose has built it relays it was plug and play for the factory nissan actuators and indivator flashes. easy.

Great forum!

No problem mate. Happy to help out. Forums like this are about helping each other work smarTer not harder.

Dave

I had one of these fitted to my 98 2.8 TDe, and when the central locking played up, Nissan flatly refused to even look at it because I had fitted an alarm not Nissan.
Took it to the folks who intsaled the alarm, and they told me the fault was in the central locking not the alarm, and Nissan should fix it.
Nissan declined to come to the party as long as the non Nissan alarm was fitted.
So folks, before you go down this road, ensure you will never call upon Nissan for any work on your car, cause they'll knock you back.

This may be of some help to some guys....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...der-20-minutes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by itchyvet

I had one of these fitted to my 98 2.8 TDe, and when the central locking played up, Nissan flatly refused to even look at it because I had fitted an alarm not Nissan.
Took it to the folks who intsaled the alarm, and they told me the fault was in the central locking not the alarm, and Nissan should fix it.
Nissan declined to come to the party as long as the non Nissan alarm was fitted.
So folks, before you go down this road, ensure you will never call upon Nissan for any work on your car, cause they'll knock you back.

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A few things.
The vehicles this is being suggested for are several years out of warranty.
If you are capable of following the instructions, you don't need a dealer to fix your central locking - in fact you are doing it to completely avoid ever having to have a dealer do anything to your central locking ever again.
If you take something to the dealer and ask them to fix it, they'll do it - or contract it out to an auto elec in the area - unless you sound like you are trying to get it fixed for nothing, in which case they'll give you an excuse like that. Again, that situation is likely to relate to warranty which isn't an issue here.

If an actuator did fail under warranty, it's not caused by the device switching it. Whether the trigger is from the switching of the other door actuators from a poverty pack setup with a switch activated by the key in the drivers door, or whether it's triggered by an aftermarket locking system is immaterial. Further to that, if you'd asked Nissan to fit central locking to a GU in '98 it'd have been an aftermarket dealer fitted system anyway.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

This may be of some help to some guys....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...der-20-minutes

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Would have been really easy to work it out in under 20 minutes given that the wiring colours are the same as the ones in the info here...

Mate, given where 4wds go - ie rough terrain, corrugations etc - or where they should go but some never do, you might want to reconsider the crappy scotch locks (wire taps). They are a recipe for disaster on a central locking kit. Bit of vibration and change of temperature and you could very easily find yourself locked out of your truck. They are a really lousy alternative to a good join that should be taken off the market.

When I did my apprenticeship, the guys in the rig lab did some tests on them and the voltage drops on a scotch lock that had started to oxidise were pretty high too. Easily high enough that the heat from even a mediocre current draw will cause the housing to deform and for the connection to fail - particularly when people start using them to tap feeds for lighting and other med-high draw devices.

Might take longer than 20 minutes but do it properly and you'll not regret it.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davejones

Would have been really easy to work it out in under 20 minutes given that the wiring colours are the same as the ones in the info here...

Mate, given where 4wds go - ie rough terrain, corrugations etc - or where they should go but some never do, you might want to reconsider the crappy scotch locks (wire taps). They are a recipe for disaster on a central locking kit. Bit of vibration and change of temperature and you could very easily find yourself locked out of your truck. They are a really lousy alternative to a good join that should be taken off the market.

When I did my apprenticeship, the guys in the rig lab did some tests on them and the voltage drops on a scotch lock that had started to oxidise were pretty high too. Easily high enough that the heat from even a mediocre current draw will cause the housing to deform and for the connection to fail - particularly when people start using them to tap feeds for lighting and other med-high draw devices.

Might take longer than 20 minutes but do it properly and you'll not regret it.

Dave

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Was done properly, I used scotch locks first to make sure everything it o.k then I soldered them up. Properly. So add another five minutes for soldering :)

Well this is where I am currently at. Email sent to Nizzbits for a factory drivers side door latch mechanism, with factory keyed central.
A little spring, held centrally on a nylon post has let go inside the latch assembly. I spent 2 hours trying to reset it, but have given up in frustration.
Means loss of drivers exterior door handle and interior door handle operation.
Funnily enough I did find an aftermarket solenoid for remote central locking, so once I get this current problem sorted out I will investigate what aftermarket system has been installed and get a new remote.
Door will be held closed with an occu strap for a while yippee

Also love the way stuff like this always happens on a Friday arvo after 1600... Never bloody Monday morning

Big thanks to Gary at Nizzbits..new door mech arrived today and fitted up no problems.
Followed the loom for the remote central locking and discovered everything is there....apart from the main control box.
Its been disconnected at some stage and tossed.

The wiring is dodgy as hell so I am going to strip it all back and install a new control unit...the original solenoid in the door works, so I can retain that.

Glad the door works now, annoying trying to tie a door closed with bungy cords.

Cheers

IT might be a little off the subject - I have a GU 2008 DX, which doesn't come with remotes from factory, but as I understand it I can just buy one, and program it in, is this correct?

WHhy wouldnt it come with OEM remotes from new?
Is it "fitted for/ but not with" a wireless system?... or keyed central locking at least?
All research I did when trying to sort our car out....most people changed over to Aftermarket systems, because of the cost savings (compared to Mr Nissans extotionate pricing)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pjhicks3

IT might be a little off the subject - I have a GU 2008 DX, which doesn't come with remotes from factory, but as I understand it I can just buy one, and program it in, is this correct?

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I'd say you probably can't. Usually in the DX models there's just a switch in the drivers side door which activates the other doors actuators. So you need to add a kit with a controller, actuator for the drivers side door & remotes. There's a similar kit mentioned earlier in this thread.

Dave

Massive thanks to davejones! You took all the work out of this job. Just installed a Warlock alarm from JB Hifi in about 30mins and it's working great.

G'day Shaun

No problem!

Dave

Hi Shaun when you installed the warlock kit was it a kg800 ?

I have tried wiring the unit up but does not appear to be activating the central locking what form did you wire for positive, negative or positive/negative. Thanks Rodney Attachment 29949Attachment 29950

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rodneyb81

Hi Shaun when you installed the warlock kit was it a kg800 ?

I have tried wiring the unit up but does not appear to be activating the central locking what form did you wire for positive, negative or positive/negative. Thanks Rodney Attachment 29949Attachment 29950

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From memory I think it was the positive/negative trigger connected to pin 2 & 8 as shown in davejones' pic attached.
Attachment 29961

Hi I am new to the forum and trying to install a keyless module to my 2004 Patrol. Besides the wires mention in the thread, there are 6 or 7 more wires. Does any one know what they are for?

Hi DaveJones.
Would you know if it is possible to reset the receiver and remove any previously coded FOBs?
I am only able to get one FOB to operate at a time. There should be 4 memory slots for 4 keys but when I code a new one in, it deletes the previous one.

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by neilo99

Hi DaveJones.
Would you know if it is possible to reset the receiver and remove any previously coded FOBs?
I am only able to get one FOB to operate at a time. There should be 4 memory slots for 4 keys but when I code a new one in, it deletes the previous one.

Cheers!

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No idea sorry. Not sure I'd bother. The price of their remotes was why I went this way in the first place.

DJ