Stupid Plastic Radiator

My patrol left me stuck on the side of the road the other day at 1AM in the morning driving home from work the engine light came on and temp gauge was off the scale DOH. :mad:
Upon opening the bonnet i had discovered the top hose was disconnected from the radiator because the plasitc pipe had broken

http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2473-1.jpg

so in order not to let that happen again i bought my self a aluminium radiator from ebay nice bit of kit for only $400 heavy duty 3 core with a 12 month warranty too
As you can see from the pics below its a fair bit wider than the original so the plastic fan shroud had to have a corner trimmed to prevent it touching the wheel arch.
Also replaced the hoses and clamps while i was there

http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2475-2.jpg
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2476-3.jpg
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2477-4.jpg

Nice welds couldn't fault it

http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2478-5.jpg
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2479-7.jpg

Functional Bling :bananarock:
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_2485-6.jpg

So far works great
Might get the old one repaired somehow just for a spare but only if it not to expensive

Cheers
Darren

Old one looks dirty mate, mustve been from Coopers...LMAO!!!

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Originally Posted by AB

Old one looks dirty mate, mustve been from Coopers...LMAO!!!

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You bet im still finding dust everywhere
Its almost a shame that my new bling bling radiator will look like that soon LOL

My '96 GQ 2.8t did the same thing last week. not happy but picked op one from the wreckers for $195.00 6 months warrantee had it tested and cleaned $30.00 all now working

This happened on my commonhore recently...........sh1t its part af the whole top tank!! ENTER feropre the best in vention since bailing twine and liquid nails!! Well its lasted 3mths so far.

My GU has the huge aluminium radiator and thermos, but thinking of getting rid of 'em going back to original. Katrol going to doc's next week. Will wait for diagnosis first !

Are all the GU radiators the same? ie, will the 4.5, 3.0, 2.8 fit into the 4.2?

This is something I want to do before it leaves me stuck in the middle of the bush somewhere

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Originally Posted by GUte

Are all the GU radiators the same? ie, will the 4.5, 3.0, 2.8 fit into the 4.2?

This is something I want to do before it leaves me stuck in the middle of the bush somewhere

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There are 2 main types of radiators fitted to GU's but I don't know which model got which radiator.
There is the huge wide radiator shown above or the narrower but taller radiator. The tall radiator has a dropped front crossmember in the chassis to accomadate the extra height.
I can't help with interchangabillity between the different engines, there may be differences with outlet sizes and position.

Tony

Cheers Tony, I know for a fact my front crossmember hangs low as I couldnt get my winch in without removing the bullbar, where others have got theirs in with it fitted, must be the different xmembers you talk about

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Originally Posted by xtreme patrol

you bet im still finding dust everywhere
its almost a shame that my new bling bling radiator will look like that soon lol

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shame to take it bush mate nice and shiney,ah what the heck aye dunk her in the river then up a dusty road and you wont know the difference lol

Only trouble with aluminium radiators is if you get stray current floating around it will chew your radiator out in a very short time.

can you get anodes for them? nice bling daren.

The origanal radiator has a aluminium core and it lasted 300k with no worrys it was only the plastic that shat it self.
But will check with a multimeter anyway. I think you can get some stuff to put in them to take the charge out

Any Updates? Has it lasted? I am looking to replace my radiator in the ZD Patrol, so confusing which to go for. Full Alloy, Orginal, Brass/copper

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Originally Posted by outbackjack

Any Updates? Has it lasted? I am looking to replace my radiator in the ZD Patrol, so confusing which to go for. Full Alloy, Orginal, Brass/copper

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No problems at all I have towed a fully loaded camper trailer up a massive hill north of dargo on a 40 degree day and the needle didn't move.

Ok thanks. I would like the alloy one, but some people say dont buy the cheap Ebay ones. Like everything I guess, some good some bad.

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Originally Posted by outbackjack

Ok thanks. I would like the alloy one, but some people say dont buy the cheap Ebay ones. Like everything I guess, some good some bad.

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Yeah you got to roll the dice and sometimes you win sometimes you lose.

Heres some info i came across from http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/ALUMRAD.htm


Aluminium Radiator cores with plastic tanks have been fitted to most European and Japanese cars since the early eighties with the Holden Commodore changing in 1989 and Ford Falcon in 1998. Toyota was the main Japanese manufacturer to resist change but even the Landcruiser is now alloy/plastic. In 1998, 97% of new vehicles registered in Australia have an aluminium core fitted.
In broad terns of heat conducting properties, copper is a little better than aluminium, brass is noticeably worse, BUT lead is a shocker. A copper/brass radiator has brass tubes and copper fins with solder joining these together. Solder is approx.70% lead, so this is where their inefficiency to aluminium lies. An aluminium radiator cannot only dissipate more BTU's of total heat, but also quicker. I have seen data logging results of a comparison between a copper/ brass and an aluminium radiator of similar dimensions, fitted to the same drag car with the water temp. graph being slower to rise, not as high a peak and also, started dropping as soon as the driver got off the throttle for the aluminium, whereas the other radiator actually kept increasing a little, before dropping.
When Nissan Aust. tested the two different radiators, they found a copper/brass core deteriorated exponentially quicker than aluminium, meaning its cooling rate was much less again after 4 years of service.
A new air conditioned 3.0 litter, 6 cyl. VL Commodore came out of the factory with a 3 row, 50mm thick copper brass core. The next model Commodore, an air conditioned 3.8 litter,V 6 cyl. VN came out of the factory with a single row of tubes, 29mm. thick aluminium core, even though it was more powerful. a little heavier and with a little smaller grille opening! Nearly the same for Mazda RX7 rotaries, their 3 row 50mm copper brass core was replaced by a 2 row 37mm. aluminium core by the factory. These are real world examples of an aluminum cores advantage.

Now the downside
If an aluminium radiator is looked after properly, it will last at least twice as long as a copper/brass unit and without anywhere near as much continual loss of performance as a copper/brass unit suffers. If it is totally abused, it can also be rendered unserviceable 283 times quicker than a copper/brass unit, so it really pays to look after them!!! It is a simple matter of not mixing different brands/types of inhibitors, replacing inhibitor when due and having a stray current test performed every 12 months or each time panel beating or electrical components are fitted. Plastic tanks are usually the first thing to go, so the cooler the system runs, the longer they will last.

This is interesting. Looks Alloy might be the way to go. I have heard some bad reports on PWR, not sure of others

hello, I like it!! is it easy to replace? did you pull off the fan before? I'd like to do the same job because I have exactly the same problem, do I need some special tools? any suggestion is welcome, I'm not so expert. ta

Thanks for the info guys, looks like that is the fix for my little overheating problem.

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Originally Posted by putin

hello, I like it!! is it easy to replace? did you pull off the fan before? I'd like to do the same job because I have exactly the same problem, do I need some special tools? any suggestion is welcome, I'm not so expert. ta

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Have not done the radiator in the Patrol before. The clutch fan is usually better left alone. removing the radiator requires no special tools. Usually sockets, spanners and screwdrivers are all that are needed to complete. That is my experience from many changeovers in other vehicles. If you have a thermo fan it is better to remove it first.

any suggestions on a reputable place to purchase an aluminum radiator? cheers

I've had one of these radiators in my Patrol for about 5 months now and it's going well. Mine has the auto cooler in it also. Before I fitted this I bought one from a radiator shop which was plastic like the original which started leaking after a week which was then replaced again which it then did the same thing so I got my money back and bought one of these.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/asifactorydirect

Cheers Mick.

Yes they look the goods. I am going to fit one before I head out west in September.
bazza

Hi guys,
I have only recently joined this forum but have had my 98 tb45 for 7 years and now have replaced the radiator for the second time, first time with a 2 core with plastic tanks and last week with a 3 core with welded tanks and i had trouble towing my caravan on saturday with it overheating and i only had driven 5 kms, any thoughts on this would be appreciated as i am leaving to go around australia mid march and need it to be fixed before we leave

David

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Originally Posted by Codman

Hi guys,
I have only recently joined this forum but have had my 98 tb45 for 7 years and now have replaced the radiator for the second time, first time with a 2 core with plastic tanks and last week with a 3 core with welded tanks and i had trouble towing my caravan on saturday with it overheating and i only had driven 5 kms, any thoughts on this would be appreciated as i am leaving to go around australia mid march and need it to be fixed before we leave

David

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Mate it is customary to head over to the intro section and say gday and tell us a bit about yourself before posting questions... polite and all!!!

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Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie

Mate it is customary to head over to the intro section and say gday and tell us a bit about yourself before posting questions... polite and all!!!

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Sorry will do, thanks for the heads up

check your thermostat mate

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Originally Posted by Stropp

check your thermostat mate

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Yep thanks done that, found that the thermostat was also buggered so have changed that now just need another hot day to give the car and van another run up the western ring road craigeburn hill to see how it goes

Cheers thanks

David

My mechanic had a long saga with a replacement radiator in a TD42 ute, all alloy job and it simply wouldnt cool as well as original. Still chasing refund
Can buy new tanks for them, top one seems to give issues with heat and age.

How is this radiator going Darren and do you remember the brand?

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Originally Posted by timbo1

any suggestions on a reputable place to purchase an aluminum radiator? cheers

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Putting one next week so will let you know when it arrives.

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Originally Posted by katwoman

My GU has the huge aluminium radiator and thermos, but thinking of getting rid of 'em going back to original. Katrol going to doc's next week. Will wait for diagnosis first !

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Just wondering why going back to inferior plastic tanks which will let you down sooner or later? I have ordered aluminium one to reduce the risk of plastic failing in middle of nowhere.

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Originally Posted by timbo1

any suggestions on a reputable place to purchase an aluminum radiator? cheers

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Just installed a Aussie Desert Cooler all alloy radiator and VDO temp gauge. Impressed so far with a 34 degree hot day, temps vary from 75 to a max of 85 on highway at 100kph. Can's compare actual temps to original as did not have new gauge. Real test will be in slow work in loose sand.

xtreme patrol - Top placky tank costs around $200 to supply and fit. I recently had mine replaced, due to the over flow nozzle breaking off due to old age and heat.

OK, Folks, I need an update on how the three different types have performed for you, please. My copper/brass unit is starting to weep again so I need to replace it soon.

Patrolapart are spruiking their alloy plastic jobbies, but I am shying away from that after reading this thread. I have only ever driven vehicles with the copper/brass.

Here is a simple test procedure for stray currents in alloy radiators.http://engineproblem.com.au/procedures/details/12.html

my alloy plastic radiator has been in just under a year cant complain
and cost was just over $300.

I have just been to a recently retired radiator specialist. He quoted me a brand new copper/brass radiator for a very reasonable price. He said " If you are going to completely clean and flush the system and especially the heater core, then it is worthwhile fitting an alloy unit. The deposits of copper and iron etc, produces a current which can eat out an alloy unit."

What's the benefits to the alloy or similar?

I paid $300 for a three core copper/brass one for my GQ 3 years ago, it's been spot on and never given me issues.

Car runs 82c all day, even towing the camper in 40c it only got to 84c up a long steep hill.

Probably cheaper to manufacture.