Pertronix - Hall Effect Vs Lobe Sensor what is the difference?

I just bought a set up off ebay it says "GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL WITH TB42 ENGINE" LS for lob sensing but further inb the description it says "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out" it doesnt say anything about having to grinf the distributor shaft down, saw a post on another site saying "1762 (so I'm assuming it's not lobe sensing) and says the instructions that cam with that say "distributor must be removed from the car and a flange on the distributor shaft has to be Machined to 0.624 of an Inch"

Have I bought a lob sensing one as I hear they are not as reliably as the Hall effect type?

Also bought the Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil they recommend to go with the ignightor.. I've read to check the rivies are right as its a manufacturing oversight, but bottom line is have I bought the right one, and what is the difference between hall effect and lob sensing, as i said in the ebay description its says its both!!!!!

Got both the ignigtor and flame thrower coil for 160 delivered from the USA...

The hall effect set up usually has an insert that sits under the rotor button after removing the points. The lobe sensor set up usually still uses the points as a switch. I haven't seen a lobe sensing set up for years because although they only have minimal current passing through the points (and they wont burn out) you still get wear on the rubbing block and the points will still need to be adjusted occasionally. With the hall effect sensor - once it is set up there is no wear and it should never need adjustment. Hope this helps.

This is the exact one I bought on ebay, like i says in one section it says lobe sensing in another hall effect, says not grinding necessary and nevery needs replacing...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200667065...ht_2073wt_1397

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200667065...ht_2073wt_1397


YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL WITH TB42 ENGINE,ALSO FITS THE FORD MAVERICK WITH THE TB42.THIS WORKS WITH THE GAS OR LP SUPPLIED ENGINES.THE PERTRONIX IGNITOR WILL BE SHIPPING FROM THE USA,AIRMAIL AND WILL TAKE UP TO 10 DAYS.YOU WILL BE SUPPLIED WITH A USPS.COM CUSTOMS # UPON PURCHASE.IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS,LET ME KNOW THRU EMAIL. YOU WILL SAVE YOU MUCH MONEY ON THIS PURCHASE.CHECK OUT OUR FEEDBACK THANKS MATT


VERY EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS AND VERY EASY TO INSTALL.NO NEED TO GRIND DOWN YOUR DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT TO MAKE THE OLD STYLE IGNITOR FIT AS WE SELL THE NEW IMPROVED VERSION.




CHECK OUT OUR FEEDBACK TO AUSTRALIA.WE SHIP QUICK AND THE BEST PRICE AROUND





For over thirty years, the Ignitor has proven itself in applications ranging from race cars to tractors. The Ignitor replaces breaker point and troublesome factory electronic ignitions with a dependable, self contained and maintenance free electronic ignition system. The Ignitor has been called the "stealth" ignition because of its quick installation and nearly undetectable presence under your distributor cap.



Specifications

Operating Voltage: 8-V to 16-V DC
Temperature Range: -50 to 300F
RPM Range: 0 to 15,000 RPM
12-V NEG Ground (some 6-V NEG, 6 & 12-V POS ground kits available)
System is designed for use with most point-type coils, optimal performance achieved when used with our Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil.
Works great in stock point-type distributors as a trigger for multi-spark CD ignitions, eliminating the need for expensive aftermarket distributors.
No complicated wiring makes installation easy.
A solid-state electronic ignition system. "Never change points again!"




Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs, increasing horsepower, fuel economy, and spark plug life.
2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out.
Epoxy molding makes our module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
Fits entirely inside the distributor.
No "black box to clutter the engine compartment.
Stable timing ...no need for any adjustments.
Will trigger most multi-spark CD ignitions.
Use with Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil for optimal performance.
Available for 6 and 12-volt negative and positive ground systems.
Legal in all 50 states and Canada (C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-57-2).
Guaranteed for 30 months... We Stand Behind It!

Sounds like it is the type where the magnets sit under the rotor button and the hall effect device fits where the points used to be.

Upload a photo of the Box, Parts you have and the instructions. I got the Ignitor 2 and Flamethrower 2 which is a Hall Effect setup and I had my Fitter and Turner mate turn the shaft down for me, some people use a grinder, could use a a file and a drill press if you where careful enough.

Also you don't have to take the Dissy out of the car, you can pull it apart while in the bay and still mounted but you have to be aware of which way the rotor button was facing.

To disassemble the Dissy you take off the dissy cap leaving leads on it and cable tie out of the way, then mark which direction the rotor button is pointing on the housing of the dissy, remove rotor button and dust cap, you will see the points and condenser that sits on the side of the dissy, remove all the screws to pull out points and condenser (all screws except 2 that hold down the breaker plate) for the Lobe Sensing type, for the Hall Effect type you need to remove the dissy shaft, to remove the shaft you need to take out the extra two screws holding down the breaker plate and remove the circlip on the vacuum advance (be careful it doesn't go missing), remove the vacuum advance and the screw that's down the centre of the dissy shaft, lift out the breaker plate and you will see the two springs with the govenor weights on them, the shaft just slots in on two little studs and should slide out, take out the shaft machine it down and replace in opposite order repacking with high temp grease, on the position the points used to sit roughly you will put the ignitor and on the shaft you will put the magnet ring on first with the hexagonal internal diameter facing up, then the white spacing ring on top, should all just sit below the top of the rotor button.

Hope this helps

Irvs

WOW !!! The one I had years ago (it was a Bosch brand) just fitted in without doing anything to the shaft. It was a different engine though. Sounds like a lot of work.

Sounds like it but it really isn't, if you have the tools to grind it down the whole job should take an hour including the wiring

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irvs

Sounds like it but it really isn't, if you have the tools to grind it down the whole job should take an hour including the wiring

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X2....... Follow Irvs's instructions posted above... They're pretty much spot on & once you've had a good look you'll get a good idea of whats bean said & be able to follow them easily.

Looking at the picture in the ebay add, there is a magnet which goes over the distrubutor shaft, and in the descriptin it says no wear on parts...

Forget the picture on ebay they may have sent you the wrong one, two ways to tell, open the box and see If the instructions tell you to machine the flange down.

Second way is to open up your dissy to the breaker plate and see if the magnet ring slides on to the base of the dissy shaft, if it doesn't you've got your answer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Irvs

Upload a photo of the Box, Parts you have and the instructions. I got the Ignitor 2 and Flamethrower 2 which is a Hall Effect setup and I had my Fitter and Turner mate turn the shaft down for me, some people use a grinder, could use a a file and a drill press if you where careful enough.

Also you don't have to take the Dissy out of the car, you can pull it apart while in the bay and still mounted but you have to be aware of which way the rotor button was facing.

To disassemble the Dissy you take off the dissy cap leaving leads on it and cable tie out of the way, then mark which direction the rotor button is pointing on the housing of the dissy, remove rotor button and dust cap, you will see the points and condenser that sits on the side of the dissy, remove all the screws to pull out points and condenser (all screws except 2 that hold down the breaker plate) for the Lobe Sensing type, for the Hall Effect type you need to remove the dissy shaft, to remove the shaft you need to take out the extra two screws holding down the breaker plate and remove the circlip on the vacuum advance (be careful it doesn't go missing), remove the vacuum advance and the screw that's down the centre of the dissy shaft, lift out the breaker plate and you will see the two springs with the govenor weights on them, the shaft just slots in on two little studs and should slide out, take out the shaft machine it down and replace in opposite order repacking with high temp grease, on the position the points used to sit roughly you will put the ignitor and on the shaft you will put the magnet ring on first with the hexagonal internal diameter facing up, then the white spacing ring on top, should all just sit below the top of the rotor button.

Hope this helps

Irvs

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if you follow the ebay link in above posts you see the exact one I'm getting otherwise here is a pic they display
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ign...ox_example.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/66.jpg

I bought a Pertronix lobe sensor about 2 years ago.

It replaces the points.

I later bought one of those extended rotor buttons from a crowd in Vic. The mech over the road grew up with the intro of the anti pollution gear, and explained why the factory installed big gaps, and why petrol heads like small gaps between rotor button and dissie cap.

I left the Bosch GT 40 coil, but put in heavy plug and dissie leads.

Silver has a TB42, petrol only.

You set the timing by turning the dissie. There seems to be no way to set the dwell. I put the dwell meter on, the numbers were not those listed in the manual. I scratched my head, looked at the instructions, had a look on line, and found nothing about setting the dwell. It ran as well with the lobe sensor as I got it to run with points, so I did the obvious thing and put the dwell meter away :-). I kinda miss doing the points every 5 000 ks, or when the motor lost that crisp response..... but have managed to get over it :-)

I think I saw a recent ad for the Hall effect (turn down the shaft option) that listed adjusting the dwell as one of the functions.

I went for the lobe sensor because it is easy to undo and put points back in.

Haven't you got it yet?

They use a generic pic for the pertronix on most of their listings, that's not one for a GQ alternator displayed.

I've been working under the assumption that you had it already. Not much we can do except wait if you don't have it yet.

General consensus is that the Hall Effect is better, this is how they make the new Ignitor 2 which has a few upgraded features and self protecting features.

Be aware that you can burn out your pertronix if you leave the ignition on without the engine running with the older model.

Silver I think you adjust the dwell by spacing the ignitor closer or further away from the magnet sleeve, I left mine stock as I haven't upgraded my leads or replaced plugs yet

In point terms the dwell angle is the time that the points are in contact or closed. In an electronic ignition this is usually adjusted by using a screwdriver to adjust a "pot". Some adjust themselves automatically.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckh

if you follow the ebay link in above posts you see the exact one I'm getting otherwise here is a pic they display
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ign...ox_example.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/66.jpg

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Mate, the ppl posting here are trying they're hardest to try & help you not argue with you..... Take a step back & have a really good read of whats been posted, it's all really good sound advice & if your unsure what it is your getting then at least after reading whats been posted in your thread you'll have a better idea on what questions to ask your supplier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by patch697

Mate, the ppl posting here are trying they're hardest to try & help you not argue with you..... Take a step back & have a really good read of whats been posted, it's all really good sound advice & if your unsure what it is your getting then at least after reading whats been posted in your thread you'll have a better idea on what questions to ask your supplier.

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Confusing part is in the descritpin on ebay its says its lobe sensing, no grinding needed, but further down it say thre magnets do the hal mark effect... All the guy fro the usa has said to me so far is its the new improved model as no one wants the other model....

"YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL"
thrn further down in the description it say "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out."

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckh

Confusing part is in the descritpin on ebay its says its lobe sensing, no grinding needed, but further down it say thre magnets do the hal mark effect... All the guy fro the usa has said to me so far is its the new improved model as no one wants the other model....

"YOU ARE GETTING 1 PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1762LS LOBE SENSOR FOR THE NISSAN GQ PATROL"
thrn further down in the description it say "Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out."

---

Yes mate I can see your point.... I'd send the seller a msg with your concerns & ask them to explain exactly what it is your getting. If you don't get a suitable reply then chose a seller in which your happy to deal with.

Remember.... Its your money so you be happy with whom you spend it.

A mate just fitted the pertronix ignitor 2 hall effect along with the flamethrower2 coil (45,000 volts, 0.6 ohms resistance). He reckons it drives way better. I'm just about to order one for me. Check out rusty nails diy thread, he shows how he fitted a pertronix ignitor 1. Lobe sensing (while keeping the factory coil).
The points are removed for the lobe sensing version. I think it uses a magnet to sense everytime the lobes go past (instead of the lobes mechanicaly moving the points open). The hall effect one uses a magnetic ring that slides over the lobes and gives a better signal to the module. The only reason you need to machine the shaft is so the magnetic ring fits over the little step that the rotor button sits on...

Tap, crackle, pop

Quote:

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Originally Posted by taslucas

A mate just fitted the pertronix ignitor 2 hall effect along with the flamethrower2 coil (45,000 volts, 0.6 ohms resistance). He reckons it drives way better. I'm just about to order one for me. Check out rusty nails diy thread, he shows how he fitted a pertronix ignitor 1. Lobe sensing (while keeping the factory coil).
The points are removed for the lobe sensing version. I think it uses a magnet to sense everytime the lobes go past (instead of the lobes mechanicaly moving the points open). The hall effect one uses a magnetic ring that slides over the lobes and gives a better signal to the module. The only reason you need to machine the shaft is so the magnetic ring fits over the little step that the rotor button sits on...

Tap, crackle, pop

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Just to add a bit to the above quoted post, its dead easy to remove & refit the top shaft that needs the step knocked off from the distributor without removing the entire dizzy. no more skill is required than whats needed to fit the Pertornix in the first place.

I took mine into the local machine shop & they machined it off for under $20 clams.... Problem solved.

Yeah we had the dissy out anyway. They put it in a vice, a drill on one end to turn the shaft, and a file to machine it down:-)

Tap, crackle, pop

Quote:

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Originally Posted by taslucas

Yeah we had the dissy out anyway. They put it in a vice, a drill on one end to turn the shaft, and a file to machine it down:-)

Tap, crackle, pop

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Did you remove the shaft or just did the machining of the shaft in the distributor????

Patch he means he gripped the shaft of the dissy in the chunk of his drill while the whole thing was out and then just pulled the trigger and filed it down, kinda like a low rpm makeshift lathe.

In Rusty Nails thread I added the extra steps you need to take to fit the Pertronix 2 with some photos, but if you follow pretty much exactly what I wrote earlier in this thread you shouldn't have any dramas. If your in Melbourne I can do it with you if you'd like.

Whats confusing the hell out of me, is in the ebay description at one point it says lobe sensing, then further down the page it make reference to the magnets creating the hall effect....

Arrived yesterday nothing like the picture in the bay auction, as mentioned above, was supprised that no magnetic ring was packaged, after reading the instruction, said this model didnt need it, so wired it up, and it started.. was not impressed with the flame thrower coil as it didnt come with its own mounting bracket, and being almost half the size of the coil that was in it, which looked like more than likley the origional coil, had to modify existing coil holer to hold the new coil in place, cant say I'm impressed with it yet, was near dark by the time i installed it. so havent done the timing on it yet, will see if that makes a difference, have read on here to set it to 12 degrees BTDC, will update after that...
but so far ... FAR from what their sales pitch says
Delivers twice the voltage to the spark plugs, increasing horsepower, fuel economy, and spark plug life.
2:1 improvement over points in current fall time for increased coil output.
Rotating cobalt magnets trigger a Hall Effect integrated circuit . ...no points to burn, ...no moving parts to wear out.
System is designed for use with most point-type coils, optimal performance achieved when used with our Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil.
Works great in stock point-type distributors as a trigger for multi-spark CD ignitions, eliminating the need for expensive aftermarket distributors.
No complicated wiring makes installation easy.
A solid-state electronic ignition system. "Never change points again!"
Epoxy molding makes our module impervious to dirt, oil, grease and moisture.
Fits entirely inside the distributor.
No "black box to clutter the engine compartment.
Stable timing ...no need for any adjustments.
Will trigger most multi-spark CD ignitions.
Use with Flame-Thrower® 40,000 volt coil for optimal performance.

Although I left positive feedback on ebay, but commented on it looking nothing like the picture, the guy is refusing to give me any feedback, and has pretty much told me, if something goes wrong with it, tuff luck.... real nice guy....

Yeah mate as said the eBay picture is a generic one and you got did end up getting the right one anyway, I just wedged some cardboard in between my coil holder and coil, still haven't gotten around to fixing it yet, might do it soon, haha

Std coil is larger proberly holds more oil for better cooling.
may not be impressed now.
you will be impressed not having to play with points every other month.

Hi folks,

I'm also looking for a Petronix for my 4.2 Carby, but now I am kind of confused...
I checked the Petronix catalog and found a Patrol on top of page 15.

For distributor make Hitachi - Ignitor 1763LS - Ignitor II 91763LS

On page 21 I found the 1762

For distributor make Mitsubishi TOT 00471 - Ignitor 1762LS
..........TOT 00471, 22100 03510 (Nissan) - Ignitor 1762 - Ignitor II 91762

Now which one is the right one???
As my Patrol is still in Namibia and I am buried in Germany there is no big chance to have a closer look at the Dissy...

Cheers

Smile

Not sure when you posted this mate but the datestamp says 1970, unless you're in a delorian I doubt that. The Patrol has a mitsubishi branded dissy and 1762 sounds right from memory to me, hope this helps.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

This is an Ignitor I, not the Ignitor II... ??? I am looking for an Ignitor II...

Smile

Here is my ignitor2. (and flamethrower2 coil to suit)
Number is 91762.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2013/02/47.jpg

Edit: my engine is the TB42. In a 1991 patrol

FanTapstic!