Blocking the EGR Valve

Hey Bindi. the Scangauge wont show EGT's because there is no factory fitted pyrometer on the Patrols, same as for the oil temp gauge. Technically your EGT's should be lower when blocking the EGR as your now not getting hot exhaust gas pumped into the cylinders, which would prior to the EGR block create slightly hotter exhaust gases.
Adding a Dawes and needle valve to the CRD's is not as important as it is with the Di's as the Di's ECU had a real hard hard time trying to properly control boost levels and spool up rate. But using these two valves in a CRD many have found they are able to control the max boost and spool up rate much better than what the factory ECU can. Therefor making the car run even better that stock. Just because the car is new'ish doesn't mean its right. Just to what is right from factory and to Australian design. Same applies with any car, petrol or diesel. Hence why there is so many aftermarket add on's for any new car you see on the market. Simply to make them better from what you get out of the crate.

thanks, I have my scan gauge fitted now and without EGR or other mods I have been monitoring my boost levels over the last week or so. Most of the time it ranges between 4 and 15psi with the highest being 17.5psi. My next step will be to install the full (no hole) EGR blanking plate and see how this affects the boost pressures. Given that even slightly higher (say upto 20psi) will only be for very short times I struggle to see how this can be too bad for the engine??

Anyway I'll see how it goes, and if the boost pressures do get too high I can either install a dawes valve or just remove the EGR plate. My biggest dilemma is that I still have 18 months of factory warranty left.

Mark

hi
i am from switzerland and i want to ask if the EGR-modification afects the emissions dramaticly and if there will be some smoke or anithing else because the police here is not happy with smoking cars
thanks for your replys

GRY60, smoke should be reduced very significantly, NOX may increase. Only noticeable if it's tested.

Thanks TIMBO sounds a great mod to start with , my zd30 drinks fuel and I have had it checked and no results yet , I now have a project to do myself thanks a lot .

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

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Originally Posted by DOG

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

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If you have a boost gauge I wouldn't block the egr as your boost will be all over the shop and you be constantly looking at your gauge. Worse than pre egr. If you don't have a gauge then you won't see the gauge bouncing up and down and you won't need to worry. Lol.
If you want to give your turbo a smooth linear boost curve, you need to install a Dawes and needle valve. Not a must mod but definitely well worth it.

So been doing a few mods today, put a welded intercooler on as original was oily and stained and while I was at it fitted a Provent 200, also mounted a pillar pod but have not put gauges in yet which brings me to my questions..

Where to start next as I'm still waiting for the quick fit boost adapter to turn up in the mail which should of been here last week, so have boost gauge and egt gauge ready, have blanking plate, have a 3' redback exhaust which turned up today have dawes valve and needle valve, all these are ready to install But in what order should I tackle this?

I was thinking of winging it and doing the blanking plate and exhaust?

Has your pipe got the bung in it for the egt gauge? I'd be doing the pipe first. Then gauges, then the dawes, needle and egr.

The original factory Nissan exhaust is on it atm, noticed some cracking on it just below the dump pipe so was wanting a new exhaust and that pushed the finance minister into letting me, the redback system has the egt and O2 bungs, so was thinking while at it I would hook up the egt gauge, will have a search on which wire to tap into for dash lights for the gauges ect.

But back to egr backing plate, should I be looking at cleaning the manifold ect before putting the egr plate in? And how much of a job is it to remove manifold ect? Will have a search for that as well tho have already but didn find a step by step on it for the GU 02 ZD30 Di. Engine was a new nissan crate engine and currently has 68 tho on it since being replaced, so wondering if there is any need to clean manifold, tho noticed a fair bit of oil on old intercooler and around turbo from the piping hence the provent to hopefully stop that.

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Originally Posted by mudski

If you have a boost gauge I wouldn't block the egr as your boost will be all over the shop and you be constantly looking at your gauge. Worse than pre egr. If you don't have a gauge then you won't see the gauge bouncing up and down and you won't need to worry. Lol.
If you want to give your turbo a smooth linear boost curve, you need to install a Dawes and needle valve. Not a must mod but definitely well worth it.

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Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time

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Originally Posted by DOG

Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time

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Wow! Somethings not right there. Mines around 13-15litres and thats flogging it.

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Originally Posted by DOG

Thanks a lot modski I am new to all this and any info is great , there is that much info to try and work out ? the patrol I have is 2007 common rail
with a 2010 motor with 29000 kms , goes well but sucks fuel (25.4 lt / 158 klm ) just cruising on free way (very gently 90 km/hr) Thanks for your time

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Originally Posted by mudski

Wow! Somethings not right there. Mines around 13-15litres and thats flogging it.

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Those figures work out to around 16l/100km, should be a bit better than that.
When not towing and no roofrack on I get around 12l/100km, do you have a roofrack?

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Originally Posted by SG1

The original factory Nissan exhaust is on it atm, noticed some cracking on it just below the dump pipe so was wanting a new exhaust and that pushed the finance minister into letting me, the redback system has the egt and O2 bungs, so was thinking while at it I would hook up the egt gauge, will have a search on which wire to tap into for dash lights for the gauges ect.

But back to egr backing plate, should I be looking at cleaning the manifold ect before putting the egr plate in? And how much of a job is it to remove manifold ect? Will have a search for that as well tho have already but didn find a step by step on it for the GU 02 ZD30 Di. Engine was a new nissan crate engine and currently has 68 tho on it since being replaced, so wondering if there is any need to clean manifold, tho noticed a fair bit of oil on old intercooler and around turbo from the piping hence the provent to hopefully stop that.

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You can clean the manifold if your up to the job. I didn't bother with mine, but I should have been bothered... I would allow at least a day to do it. A couple of guys here have done it and it was around two hours to remove, an hour or so to clean and then another two hours to refit. Big Fletch I know done his. See in the member ride section, I am sure he posted up there about it.
As for step by step, you don't really need one. Just remove anything that will be in your way of removing the manifold really. I would be buying new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body plus a few new studs and nuts, just to have on hand if needed if it were me. Last thing you want is to bust a stud on the weekend.

No no roof rack and not towing yet , can I afford the fuel if I hook some thing behind ??? at the moment In dont know if I should keep it ?

AWESOME READ FELLAS, THANKS FOR THE INFO. FINISHING OFF THE nads THIS WEEKEND!

Just did this mod to my 06 td42ti.

First I blocked the egr intake pipe with the plate and went for a drive.. a fair improvement turbo was spooling quicker but in third gear between 2300 and 2600 it felt like a lack of pulling power.. Went home and removed the butterfly valve and went for another drive. What a different animal it is now it feels alot smoother in third gear between 2000 & 3000rpm where I spend alot of time driving, less rattly through the pedal. Pulls alot smoother through higher rpms first second and third. Would definitely recommend it. (stock besides this mod even standard exhaust still)

thanks

Ive heard once blocking the EGR you need to get the ECU remapped. This true?

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Originally Posted by Ricky

Ive heard once blocking the EGR you need to get the ECU remapped. This true?

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Not true...

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Originally Posted by mudski

Not true...

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He's on a manual hunt

still a thread that I link to friends who have got themselves a patrol. great option but sadly have not done it myself.
on a similar subject, what function do the egrc-valves a and b and the throttle control have and how do we as home mechanics use those to our advantage?
three dial looking jibbers above the turbo area.Attachment 53788

Just block the egr on the engine mate and don't worry about the other two thingo's.

sounds like a flawless plan but still interested in what they do.

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Originally Posted by snakessou

sounds like a flawless plan but still interested in what they do.

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Wouldn't have clue bud. Not real familiar with the crd's.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Wouldn't have clue bud. Not real familiar with the crd's.

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They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's.

The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di

Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings

As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable.
The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes.

Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's. The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable. The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes. Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

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Does the CRD EGR blanking plate need a hole in it? I thought I'd read somewhere it did

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Originally Posted by growler2058

Does the CRD EGR blanking plate need a hole in it? I thought I'd read somewhere it did

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A small hole will stop the ECU throwing occasional P0401 fault codes (EGR Volume error).

I didn't drill mine tho.
Every CRD owner should have a scanner, crazy if you don't IMHO, so all you do is reset the fault on the rare occasions you happen to get them.

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

They are part of the Di's , you won't find them on the CRD's.

The CRD's have a completely different EGR system to the Di

Di's use 3 electrically operated vacuum ported solenoids (as shown in his piccy) to control the EGR and Throttle valve for 1 of 4 settings

As well as having water cooled EGR the CRD's use an electrically driven motor wired to the ECM to position the EGR valve which is fully variable.
The EGR on the CRD's is much more responsive and significantly less likely to produce boost spikes.

Bottom line tho, is you are still 'breathing your own farts' as was so aptly put the other day so, yeah, just block the sucker

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The pic posted is from a crd though....

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Originally Posted by mudski

The pic posted is from a crd though....

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Well, thats damn odd, disregard my prev... Confused am I (in my best Yoda voice)

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Well, thats damn odd, disregard my prev... Confused am I (in my best Yoda voice)

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Haha, with the hMm! In the Yoda voice too.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Haha, with the hMm! In the Yoda voice too.

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Maybe there are differences between Euro and Oz ?

Meah, who cares, bottom line is block the suckers anyway

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Maybe there are differences between Euro and Oz ?

Meah, who cares, bottom line is block the suckers anyway

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You got that right. Block that shizz.

Helpful read..

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Originally Posted by Hodge

G'day Bindi. I'll tell you what I know and what I've done from my experience, as I've been in the exact position as you after I bought my CRD.
First thing I searched was, do CRD's need a EGR block. I searched this forum as well as a few other forums and lots of googling, and most answers were, yes it does. But then there were a few people saying no it doesn't as it does nothing on a CRD for various reasons. So I sat on it for ages, deciding whether I should or shouldn't blank it.

What really kicked things into motion for me, is when I seen a bunch of CRD's at wreckers opened up, and at around the point where the EGR enters the block, was all caked up, and the cylinders near by, 3&4 from memory, were a completely different shade of color due to heat from the EGR.

So I decided to just get it done and while at it, I'll get the dawes and needle valves fitted. After installing it all, I began kicking my self for NOT doing it earlier. The whole power scheme of the car changed. It had plenty more power and a nice smooth turbo spool up. The EGT's drastically dropped, because the EGR was blocked and there was now more boost flowing through system. The fuel efficiency changed too. Happy times all around!

Some issues I've had...
After blanking out the EGR, my car stalled several times for few hours after fitting the plate. But then it fixed it's self. Cannot explain why that happened, and as far as I've researched nobody else around here had such an issue.
The car now throws out an error code P0401. This is because EGR is blanked. The engine light doesn't come on, but P0401 comes up on my scangauge. I don't bother resetting it, because it only comes back minutes after I turn the car on again. And as far as I know the codes doesn't alter anything, it's just there to let you know something is up. No harm done.
My car has power mood swings. It's had this before and after fitting all that up. It's something with the turbo spool up, which I'm yet to work out. But, Mudski helped me out here heaps in fiddling with the needle valve to get it spot on. It's now been a week since we tampered with it last, and the car is still going good. Fingers crossed.

My personal advice is get that thing blocked asap. At minimum get in touch with mudski and get the boost control bits sorted out, the patrol will thank you for it. He is the man to talk to. The only other thing I should mention, is, your patrol is 2012, so I'll assume it still has warranty. If and ever you need warranty stuff done, I'm not sure how nissan will react if they see the bits you've tampered with it, especially the EGR block as it is after all, illegal.

My 2c !

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Guys,

I have read this thread from start to finish.
loads of information.
here are my thoughts/ questions.
I have a 2012 CRD
I will fit an EGR blocking plate
Hole or no hole?
I have a scangauge 2
I see the plates available on line have about a 10mm hole, this seems quite large, I know its there to satisfy the ECU.
but wont it still allow a fair amount of crap through?
partially blocked, Hmmm.... interesting concept. will fill up with gunk over a longer period of time......
has anyone tried a smaller hole?
it appears from information in this thread that if you don't have a hole it just throws a code P0401 (no big deal I read)
I may do the experiment myself, no hole, 3mm hole, 5mm hole etc.

any feedback or thought would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by funkyranga

Guys,

I have read this thread from start to finish.
loads of information.
here are my thoughts/ questions.
I have a 2012 CRD
I will fit an EGR blocking plate
Hole or no hole?
I have a scangauge 2
I see the plates available on line have about a 10mm hole, this seems quite large, I know its there to satisfy the ECU.
but wont it still allow a fair amount of crap through?
partially blocked, Hmmm.... interesting concept. will fill up with gunk over a longer period of time......
has anyone tried a smaller hole?
it appears from information in this thread that if you don't have a hole it just throws a code P0401 (no big deal I read)
I may do the experiment myself, no hole, 3mm hole, 5mm hole etc.

any feedback or thought would be appreciated.

I am going to install a

here are my t

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IMO. If your going to use a plate with the hole, don't bother. Your still letting through the nasties, it just takes longer...
Hodges CRD is fully blocked, he only get the error on his scan gauge and don't even bother with it.

Cheers.
Mark.

Edit : why is your name familiar?

X2 ^^^^^ (cept for the name bit, I'm sure we've never met)

As Mudski said. Mine is a full blank. I get the p0401 code most of the time. But I don't notice it because it hardly ever triggers an engine light. Engine light comes on maybe once a month for some reason and when I reset the code, it goes away.
Even if the code is throw it won't directly impact any performance.

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Originally Posted by mudski

IMO. If your going to use a plate with the hole, don't bother. Your still letting through the nasties, it just takes longer...
Hodges CRD is fully blocked, he only get the error on his scan gauge and don't even bother with it.

Cheers.
Mark.

Edit : why is your name familiar?

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Mark,

because I sent you a PM a while back about Dawes, I still cant decide if its worth it on the CRD.
is there value in adding a Dawes on this model?
after trawling through the forums I see that some tend to believe that the late model CRD boost limits on its own quite well.
not sure I fully understand the finer points of the dawes yet, the jury is still out.
I like to fully understand something before I commit,

Cheers.
Liam

I have a 2012 as well and would like to know if going the way of Dawes and needle valve is useful or not.

The CRD's don't "need" the dawes and needle valve. This is fact. But adding these valves impact greatly on better engine performance. This is fact also. I've fitted quite a few to the CRD's to see the difference myself. The CRD's do handle the boost a hell of a lot better than the Di's do, but like anything, theres always room for improvement. What I don't agree on is the comment I keep seeing via messages to me here and my store that the needle valve is a waste on the CRD. Pure bollocks. Lol. Why only take away half of the ECU's control over boost? Take the whole bloody lot I say. Then you have the final say in how the car runs.

If your going to spend the coin on your ride with bigger pipes, chips etc. Why wouldn't you instal these valves? Your only going to make the car go better.