Yell out if you need some steel. I could grab some from work. Have both 1 and 1.6mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Yell out if you need some steel. I could grab some from work. Have both 1 and 1.6mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Thanks John. 1.6 would be ideal. I don't need a lot. I'll see if I can get something local if not I'll contact you.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Valley Steel Sales next door to our depot are very handy but not open on Sunday. Bunnings should have some sheet enough to do the job anyways. Drill some holes and do some plug welds might be a good way to go, have a practice first lol. .
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So I got zip done this weekend. Will try and do some repairs during the week to get this sorted.
Slowly but surely. Will mig this 1.6mm plate into place. I’ve cut out as much rust as I can. The rest has had a good soak in the rust treatment stuff. The plates are a fair bit bigger than the affect area. I know doing a remove and refit is the best choice, but I am really not sure on what to do so this is what I’ll do and I’ll worry about it later. Good practice anyways.
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Oh! And!
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[emoji16]
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Got a bit more done tonight.
Not the best at welding but....
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Both sides done, sealed up with Sikaflex and then painted.
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Now to get back to getting this high mount into the bar.
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Ok. She’s ready for the cut n’ shut. With a fubar’d back it was enough just getting the bar up on the bench.
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Well I measured it all out. Got the grinder and cut away.
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I want to fill in these holes in the bar too while I’m at at.
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Filled the odd shaped hole in on the top and the two large round holes.
Not a bad job for a noob welder.
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Just waiting on an answer from ARB if the rubber bumpers are still available before I cut them out. The bolts holding them in are really rusted and need to be cut off.
I’m trying to get another weld on two aerial mounts from ARB as well. ARB being a customer of mine I have a few contacts on the inside so hopefully they come through with the goods. I might have to hit them up for some BP’s too I reckon.
Gotta weld in this plate to fill the front hole too.
It used to have a W in this hole for Warn.
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What hole? Nice work Mark, also nice welding safety moccos.
Yep, had me moccos on mate. Safety first!Quote:
Originally Posted by Family4x4
If I had a larger grinder, mine is a 115mm, the grinds using the flappy disc would be a lot smoother. As when I run my hand over the area it’s like the Grand Canyon. Not too worried though as the spotties will cover this area. Just getting rid of the useless holes.
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Go the front plate cut and spot welded in. Not sure if I weld the plate the heat is going to damage the bumper though.
I got a contact at ARB head office chasing new rubbers for me but they are not sure if they are available. As I will have to cut these off. I’ll just wait and see next week before I decided on a plan.
Hopefully I can as I want to get the bar sandblasted and powdercoated too when it’s done.
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Get a sopping wet tea towel and do a small weld and quench the area immediately. I have done this with success many times, Just keep the weld zone small and absolutely quickly apply the teatowel to the hot area, lots of water.
Get a bit of copper pipe, split it open, beat it flat and jam it in behind each weld with a thick plate of steel behind it. This and Phil's method combined should really suck out the heat.
Nice patch job Markie looking good mate [emoji106][emoji106]
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Well being the impatient person I am. I welded it up. Just did a small section at a time let it cool with the help of a spray of water.
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The final fit up of the winch I had to cut more out.
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I was hoping to get the bit out in the bottom left of the pic with adjusts the depth of the bar when mounted up. But it seems it’s seized/ rusted in and I’m worried I’ll snap the thread off. It’s been soaked it everything, hit with heat, frozen and it’s got to a point it won’t go any further without breaking. This is all that’s holding me up now. So close...
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Yeah it’s pretty dodgy though. My knowledge of this is limited so I did the best I could. It’s not nice and flat where I’ve welded up but pretty good and most of it won’t be visible as the spotties will be covering it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Just hope I can get these bumper rubbers.
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Well ARB are firing up the old plant and will be making two new bumpers for me. I should have them in a week or two.
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Going to weld on two extra aerial tags too.
I have done a test fit of the high mount bolted in. Fitted up good.
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Once the tags are on, I'll be sending it off to be sandblasted then powdercoated. Any suggestions before I take it away?
How are the moccy's holding up??? Need a new pair yet or getting them sandblasted as well!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Have you done a test fit to the vehicle? How much plastic grill do you have to remove?
Cheers
Trevor
Mate the moccos are holding up really well. I will require a new pair though, which I'll get as soon as the Vic markets re open. Lol. Not sure on how much grille I'll have to remove, I'll get to that when it comes to fitting it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryan277
So now I have to wait until ARB get my bits in. I hate waiting....
So I’ve pulled the dash apart and will start on the in cab wiring of the isolator and winch in/out switch.
Looking at the back on the in/out switch there’s too many pins, 7 of them. Lol. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this part?
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I’m going to move my light bar and spotties switch to down on the gear shift console too so the winch switches will be in the best spot.
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Hopefully this helps. .Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/05/161.jpg
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I can't remember for the life of me mate. Might have something on my build thread if not there's always your two other friends Google and YouTube..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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https://www.facebook.com/groups/1444...8026831490128/Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Just gotta work out the schematics of it all. Do I need to use any relays? Also I'm thinking of getting some small 2mm, or similar, 7 core trailer wire and use this as a loom to out of the cab. I should need anything heavier you think?
Yeah think I just sketched it all before I did it to get my head around it all. Trailer wire should be fine, don't need any relays big solenoid does everything. Worth thinking about when you do it is putting buttons up front on the bar very very handy and also some strip lighting above the winch which picks up power fron the isolator, very handy in the dark obviusly. . .
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Yep buttons on the bar are a must! I left them out and really regret it, running out the winch rope solo is a mission now. Need to find some motivation to add them in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
A light above the winch that illuminates when you activate the in cab isolation switch is also a bloody good idea too, I didn't do that either damn it.
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What he said. I find myself in the same predicament.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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Guys what are the advantages of the buttons as against the control cable and handset? I ask as I have a 8m cable for both the front and rear winches and don't find it a problem getting cable off or on and can stay well out of the line of fire as well. Is this more for re-spooling after a recovery?
I also added a led strip light over the front winch drum and makes a big difference for sure, need to work one out for the rear - somehow
In my case, my controller sh!t itself and I couldn't find a replacement (t max) I also needed to replace the solenoid So I decided to run in cab controls.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
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Yeah buttons are for respooling with no load and also highmounts without a snazzy air freespool upgrade need to be powered out with the motor as the factory freespool is damn near useless as your spinning all the gears by hand and is very hard yacka. Convenience of buttons vs plug in controller is you don't have to fish it out, plug it in, feed throug window etc, but other than that serves same propose. Also as you ending up building the whole system from scratch it's eaisier and cheaper to source switches and all the gear to sit up this way if that makes sense. .Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
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@Rossco ; I think I have it worked out without the external switches.
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Can you use your external switches with the isolator switch off?
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All the lights will be on as soon as you switch on accessory power.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Should the lower lights be switched with the isolator or come on with headlights? Or do you just want them on
Ah yeah I see. If I link 4 to 1 and 6 to 3 they should come on when pressed... Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Should be right now?
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6 from the isolator switch should go to a wire that picks up power when headlights on. The buttons up front on mine don't work unless isolator is on, so just pick up power from 3 on isolator switch and also use this for your led strip light if your going to use it.
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My 2 cents worth
Separate the location of the winch isolator switch and the operational switch (in/out)
Isolator on dash somewhere where it cannot be easily knocked (and winch powered up without realizing) and in/out switch on console. If things are hairy don't want the switches next to each other, and in haste press the wrong one!
Consider a wireless remote. If caught out on your own can spool out while dragging winch line to point of attachment and winch back in to take up slack ensuring straps, protectors etc position themselves as intended, before doing the actual recovery.
Cheers Trevor