I should have gone genuine for the drivers side. Quite a lot of vibration with both superior mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
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I should have gone genuine for the drivers side. Quite a lot of vibration with both superior mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
I was 50/50 on going genuine on the passenger side too, as Patrolapart has them on special for just over $100, and you can't get 1 cent discount with Superior (well at leastI can't). I'm hoping with just the 1 mount the vibration won't be too bad. Lots of reports saying both yes and no, so who knows. Time will tell I guess. I just hope it fixes my driveline vibration under load.
I really should swap out my drivers side oneQuote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
This turned up today after several abusive phone calls to TNT, so looks like a job for Sunday or Monday.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/129.jpg
Very nice Rod. Keen to see results of this install and temps, etc...
Was this your model code from them NIS052DMT ?
Yep that's it. If you're interested give them a ring and speak to Daniel. He can do a much better price than what's listed, so don't buy it online.
Hey Rocket. Just had a look at rapid cools site and no patrol radiator lol..
Mind pm'n me a rough price
Hmm... Girls look mate :p
They start about half way down this page http://radiatordirect.com.au/Radiator/Nissan-Radiator GQ about $450, GU about $650 plus freight. Give Daniel a call, he does much better than the listed price.
These are the radiators the performance houses in WA use and recommend to keep their 200rwkw monsters cool while towing.
Have you thought about a high flow water pump? Myself and BA run one from JPC, ableit expensive, my temps do rise but fall quick. Ba has hadbetter success with it as he had something to compare it too. I didnt. I had one in from new.
No complaints about temps from me. Yet.
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I'll see how this goes first, I've also got a modded fan hub and bigger fan coming.
This is exactly what I want to do in the new year after speaking with Mark the other day. This pump which is around $450, not including fitting, and a RC radiator, together with full system flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63378&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=63379&stc=1
Ehats wrong with your current radiator?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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It's half blocked up. I could get it cleaned out and rodded, or I could start again with a fresh 3 core unit.
Started doing the gearbox mounts tonight and all was going well. Cross member out ready to undo the mounts.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/133.jpg
Drivers side out and in, easy
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/134.jpg
Then the passenger side, 1 bolt out and then this happens, not happy Jan!!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/135.jpg
Err thats a bummer. Hope you got some good drill bits and enough room to drill into it.
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Your telling me. Theres no reason for it to be that tight, all the others once cracked were pretty much finger tight to get out, I don't get it. I'll try an hit it with a punch and see what happens, if not then start drilling and head up the shop in the morning for some Easy-Outs.
Hmm good luck.
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That might do for tonight, have to go up the shop later and get some tools and another bolt.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/137.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/12/138.jpg
What a bastard, at least it's not in a awkward spot.
Not a welcome site broken bolts, good luck.
some freeze spray up the center of hole may help to shrink it a little to help loosen it.
How'd you go Rodney?
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Ended up doing other things today. About to have some dinner and clean up then I'll have a crack at it. If all goes well I'll make a start on the engine mounts too.
Bit of mixed success tonight. I ran the drill through it a couple more times, give it a couple of big whacks and applied some heat, attacked it with an easy out and no love. Was probably a bit timid with it as I sure as hell didn't want to snap the easy out off in there. So I gave up on that and just kept on dilling, eventually as the drill was biting through it would grab and then start to screw it in further. No no. I got my little punch out and wrestled with it but it wouldn't come out, Although I was able to fold it up a bit with the punch and then drill those bit out. In the end I folded it all up towards the top of the hole then shoved the drill in there and it all came out. Unconventional maybe, but hey it's out.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psbcjpr27k.jpg
In doing this I also kinda drilled away some of the existing thread, so time for an upsize, ran a bigger drill through it and cleaned it up.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psfqnh198b.jpg
Then ran a 12mm tap through it.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psnv6t4pkb.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psmiwt0bbk.jpg
Mounted the passengers side mount, remembering to put the exhaust bracket in, then on with the cross member and job done!!
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzqip7yi.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjan8zxvu.jpg
Big thanks to all those that offered up some suggestions.
Good stuff, a win and moving again.
keep us informed on the vibration issue and how your fixes are improving or not.
I also installed a superior near side Mt, & not overly impressed with the increased level of vibration at idle.
The Superior Mt is a much better captive design, but vibration is a trade off, IMO.
Read somewhere ( to late ) someone manufactures a Mt using a larger rubber bush which decreases the vib level.
But how much ?? Need some feed back on that.
good job mate, you sure are getting stuck into it.
Just a quick tip on drilling out broken bolts. Mate showed me how he uses left-handed drill bits, quite often they are enough to screw OUT, not in, the broken stud. Also helps when screwing in the EZ out.
Maybe those mounts will "soften" over time and absorb more vibration
smoothing out the ride a bit more.
After successfully changing the gearbox mounts (after a small mishap. Note to self, get some left handed drills) it was time to change the engine mounts. The gearbox mounts are pretty easy and straight forward, piece of cake actually, these engine mounts are a different beast and a job if I had to do it again I probably wouldn't.
First up, off with the intercooler and intake pipework between the airbox and the turbo. Out with both batteries, now you can see and touch the mounts. Then I undid the top nut on the mount and wound it off to the top of the thread, then set about cracking all the other bolts (passenger side first) seeing as though the Superior mount is going in this side I undid the engine bracket bolts as well as this gets replaced. Upon removing the little heat shield I found it was cracked nearly all the way through and probably wasn't that far from falling off, so in the bin it went, one less thing to put back on.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3m6db31y.jpg
I didt the same on the drivers side as well, only left the engine braket bolts alone.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psqtgujkjw.jpg
Next was to lift the engine, it went up easily untill the top of the fan hit the fan shoud, at this point it still needed to go another 10-15mm to clear the top of the threaded bolt in the top of the mounts, clearly this was not going to happen.
So I continued to remove the passenger side mount and engine bracket all together. All the bolts are hugely tight and access is limited so it's a time consuming exercise. Some from above and some from below.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cge2srk.jpg
Now to mount the Superior mount, just put it in loose, adjust the engine height a bit to line the centre bolt up then just nipped everything up.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psiai9shqt.jpg
Now for the drivers side. No way was i able to manipulate the mount out, so I bit the bullet and removed the engine bracket also.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps74mvlvfn.jpg
Then set about installing the new genuine mount and the engine bracket again.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psshmtvqmo.jpg
Do everything up on both sides super tight, let the engine down and clean up. Radiator goes in tomorrow so I left the batteries and intercooler out till then.
For the record, a new mount is 51mm thick to the outside of the plates, the old passenger side mount measured 48mm and the drivers side 47mm. I did notice I coud relatively easily squash/tilt the old drivers side mount by hand and bring the plates together. (I could also do this with the new one....) The old drivers side mount showed plenty of evidence where it had been compressed with nice shinny smooth marks on the inside of the plates.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psmuy7hphn.jpg
Bloody hope so, its a daily drive, even my Grand daughter is telling me the car vibrates now.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
sorry for the hijack but where talking the same prob.
Merry Christmas.
Atleast your mounts came out as 1 lol..Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
When I did mine I took the whole mount out. Made it much easier and you only need to take the weight of the engine then, not lift it 30mm.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331721633...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
These may have come in handy,
Now you tell me... Haha
Mate you want hindsight I have it in spades, only spied them last night looking through Ebay.
@ that price I think they are worth throwing in the tool box, I already have easy outs, etc
First job this morning was to install the temp VDO temp gauge, it's a full sweep gauge with a 4m capilary tube. Install was pretty straight forward, went through the fire wall on the passenger side then up along the guard and over to the thermostat housing.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ebtrxjo.jpg
Next up was to remove the 12x1.5 plug in the thermostat housing and tap it out to 1/4 NPT, just used a bit of grease on the end of the tap and the fluid to help flush it out.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psliudtamq.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psa8lnpxdc.jpg
I'm finding that the 1/4 NPT adaptor that came with the gauge doesn't screw in very far, but at the same time I wasn't really using a spanner, so I'll give it a crack later and see how it goes. The adaptor is pretty thin walled so i'm not sure how much stick I can give it.
Next up was to get the radiator out, pretty easy really. Drain it, remove the hoses, unclip the bottom half of the shroud and lift it out. It had a bit of mud in the bottom but not very much at all really. Sitting next to the new one (Rapid Cool 3 core)
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pscgtfikx1.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psn4ifwcql.jpg
Next up was out with the fan and hub assembly.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psyhwpqerl.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psj38puglo.jpg
Removed all the belts to take up to the shop, get them measured and get some new ones.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pstmxbfbgn.jpg
Drained the oil as well. So in the morning, I'll get some coolant, belts and a 1/4 NPT plug just in case the temp gauge thermocoupling lets go. Fill it with oil, belts on, new fan and fan hub assembly install (if it arrives....), radiator in, intercooler on, batteries in and crank it up. Looking forward to that.
I thought they had it in stock? 7 days to get from perth to sydney is a little bit shite.
What is your goal with the cooling system overhaul? Dont forget to clean up the inlet and outlet before refitting the hoses.
Yep, seems I'm always waiting for these guys. 3 other things have turned up from all over the country in the same amount of time. Goal is to try and control the temps a bit better when towing up hills. I'll see how this goes first, but I can add a bit more advance to the injector pump as this will also bring down EGT's and help with temp. What do I clean the inlet and outlet with? as I wiped it with a bit od brake cleaner and nothing came off.
Always enjoyed reading your detailed and informative posts mate!
A question - was there any particular reason you went the vdo guages instead of a combo style offering from redarc? Cheers
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Very nice Rod.
I've found all NPT fittings I used were very tight, but still had more go on them. Not sure if this is normal or not as they are compression fitting so maybe they are designed to be that way ? Heck I even had a breaker bar to put one on the other day.
I am very keen to see the results of this. Are you going to replace the thermostat as well ? Also did you have much trouble getting to the drain plug on the block close to the turbo ? Looks like a bitch to get to.
VDO are a good qualiy gauge (as are others out there) and I just like the look of them. They are also very eary to read both day and night. They also kinda match the look of the oem gauges (black background red/oranageish needle and white numbers)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
Ok, that gives me hope. I did watch Pirtek crush a Brass fitting one day down to a smaller size so I am hopefull it will just find it's way in there. I haven't undone the drain plug omn the block yet, I looked for it yesterday evening and found it, but couldn't touch it. I might take the front wheel off today and have a better go at it. Failing that I'll just fill it up and go to a radiator shop and let them "power flush" it ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge