Thanks James.
Better get it sorted.
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Thanks James.
Better get it sorted.
Been looking at how to secure the spare tyre on the factory holder.
One option that I've came across is to mount 3 wheel studs and then fit a lock nut.
Wreckers won't knock out 3 studs and repco want $10 each stud with nut.
I know $30 isn't alot, but has anyone got any that they don't need?
Hey is there any reason why you're not / can't use the factory holder and bolt combo or have I missed something.,..Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Yeah the factory holder uses three nuts with a stud as part of the nut. I then use a padlock to secure it on.
It's a 10mm tread with the hex head nut. Thinking of drilling a hole through the flat of the nut and using a padlock. Is this where your got the lock Mark?
Kinda lost on where your at. Do you need to mount the wheel and lock it? Or just lock it?Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Heres mine.
Attachment 69699
I'm still trying to work out where to mount mine in the engine bay it's bigger than I thoughtQuote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
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Just lock it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
My holder is the factory one with the outer been plastic. Can't go through the centre
After a couple different locks and a oversized hole on the top closest to the free hole I still can't get a lock on.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/11/80.jpg
It doesn't have to go in the bay, but yeah probably better.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
Yeah I know my current one isnt. But I want to put this one inQuote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Looking at getting a few things done. Have been told two different things about a dual battery system.
One says go with the solenoid and the other BC/ DC.
Explanation I got for the solenoid system is that the alternator isn't a temperature related one and the BC/DC isn't required and a good few hundred cheaper.
So is the solenoid system still good enough? I think it is, haven't heard anything bad about them....
Thoughts.
I use a solenoid type Redarc dual battery system. It's simple and easy. I like it.
That's what I want. Simple just like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Thanks
Everything same same, only difference was between the dual battery system.
Difference is $650.
Yeah mate just go a VSRQuote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Dcdc are only really advantageous if you have significant voltage drop from the alternator eg. Running a battery bank in camper trailer. Or if your alternator is a silly modern low voltage type unit. Otherwise the VSR system will work everytime.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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I was understanding that VSR's cant charge to capacity. Where a dcdc can.Quote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
Anyway i use a Ctek250 as i have a solar panel on the roof and it has a built in solar thingo....lol
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Don't get too techincal.... Thingos are mind boggling ha haQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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A bit of advertising bollocks really.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
An alternator is maybe not as efficient for that last 10% but it gets the job done 99% of the time. And does a faster job for bulk charging large drains than any dcdc generally does, which means your more likely to be closer to fully charged after shorter drives.
Dcdc isn't required if only charging a simple 4x4 dual battery system (unless low voltage alternator). They were designed for larger battery banks and longer cable runs etc, add some misinformation from sales people and apparently alternators are no longer sufficient $$$$.
For typical battery maintenance giving it a good charge from a bench charger every 6 months or so to give it a health check up is good enough. I run dual yellowtop optimas (both under bonnet) through a simple piranha vsr and have done for nearly 10 years (rarely bench charged). Never had an issue charging them up via alternator.
Now incorporating solar is another story. I use an independent solar controller, a victron 75/15. Works a charm and can be had cheaper with a redarc vsr than compared to the dcdc/solar systems.
Basically my advice is to keep it as simple as possible and if it works for your needs your onto a winner.
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Cheers guys.
The explanation that sooty gave is pretty much the one that I got.
So I will booking it in for a dual battery system, long range sub tank, fitment of my reduction gears and confirmation of a leaking rear main seal, if it is it's getting fixed too.
No luck on the spare.
Think I might have to go the three studs with a lock nut.
Or change to the steel bracket like mine. And I think James changed his also not long ago as it broke or something... Plenty of wreckers would have them.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
KISS,,,,,, aust made as well,,,, mines been in now 6 odd years with no dramas at all,Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Highly recommend
Yep my moulded plastic one was cracked. Picked up a steel one for $30 from readies 4x4. Much better imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Yeh i rekon that'd be easier too. I've got mine padlocked up the same as MudskiQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Didn't realise you had a different factory mount for the spare tyre
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/11/89.jpg
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John boy! Good to see ya back bud!Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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Nearly back , but thanks was gettng withdrawals lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
As for locking the spare on the rear door Ive never heard of anyone getting their spare nicked ever
Is this a new thing, my spare is not worth nicking, its a BFG A/t about 30% tread left, then again Ive never brought 5 new tyres
IMHO the spare is just that a spare to put on till you can get the other repaired.
My spare is inside anyway lol
Yeah, think is the the best bet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Cheers James will see what their got.Quote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
I didn't know that there was two different types, but mine is an early series 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
I want to do a 5 wheel rotation.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
The spare is out in the weather for years. Can't be doing the rubber any good and yes they do go missing.
You stopped glowing yet..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Eh!?Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Got a text from him the other day regarding some tests.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
OK so I'm booked in for a few things, next I'll be looking at is a fridge. I know that you can't go pass a Engel, but I'm not going to spend that much on something that I'm going to use a handful of times per year.
Looking at something between 40-60 litres.
Came across this.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191501362666
Reviews look pretty good.
Thoughts or recommendations.
Who's got the kings, repco, spinafix or anything else around that $$$ mark.
For whats its worth John, I'd spend $600 on a second hand Engel or ARB fridge. I paid $600 for my ARB 47L fridge, and it came with an insulated transit bag. My 75L Engel I bought second hand, but it was brand new, the box had not even been opened. I managed to score this for about $500 under the going shop price. I did have a 29L Engel too which I sold for $400, and that was 20 years old!
I did see on FB a Kings fridge that caught fire, I can't comment on the other two. Waeco's are supposed to be quite good too.
Current draw is an important factor too, and their specs on how cold it can go below ambient temps etc etc. You really want an insulated cover for these things too, it get bloody hot in the back of these Patrols. I've blacked out the side windows and will be retinting the two rears to as dark as possible just to help.
I second @mudski with this one..
Imo much better off buying a good second hand unit than a new ebay special.
And another +1 on the insulated covers. Definitely keeps the temps lower for longer.. which means less power used..
Hey mate if you want a cheap fridge that I've personally used have a look at the techniice or the evakool travel mates
I personally wouldn't pay Engel tax but I probably would Shell out for one of the ARBs as I think they are great kit.
Also the aldi fridges are rebadged Primus fridges and I've heard they are ok
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I can tell you this since owning both ARB and Engel. The Engel is better than the ARB in almost every aspect. Quieter, cools a ship load faster and just made better. Stronger construction....Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
Im no way saying the ARB isn't good either.
Just my thoughts.
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Yeah my viewpoint was more about the form factor that I like about the ARB. Lid design etcQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Having said that I wouldn't pay full price for one
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Yeah thats a good point. The way to unlock, open and lock again on this fridge is real good. Very easy for a nub like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
Yup great design me thinksQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Thanks guys.
I've had an aldi 3 way for almost ten years and never had a problem with it works well.
I hear what you're saying Mark. I'm not in a huge rush so I will decide on exactly what size I want (1 mid-largish or 2 smallish)and be ready to pounce when and if one comes up.
With Xmas coming up I'll keep an eye on the sales and if it's good enough may consider what's available.
Had a quick look at draws+ slides.😢
FWIW I installed one of the computer fans to my engel ,,,later models with this feature were called turboed
My 40ltr has been going no stop basically well over 16 years its been off a few years now, as the Patrol is parked
till I can figure out how to fix it.
And 2nd hand engel would suit your needs highly recommend Engel,,,Waceo need very good connections
3-way fridges have got nothing on compressor fridges you'll love themQuote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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