Good to hear it's about to all b fixed for ya TD! Well done to Mark and Jaysee.
Some unusually high temps next 2-3 days for April. So that should test the system a bit once it's all together.
Printable View
Good to hear it's about to all b fixed for ya TD! Well done to Mark and Jaysee.
Some unusually high temps next 2-3 days for April. So that should test the system a bit once it's all together.
Yeah all togaether a huge thanks to all invovled, now after going for spin around the block
my heater hoses have turned up their toes, will be a quick fix once its cooled,, as it looks like
the OE clamps have cut the oe hose>
I have enough hose to cut it and re do it properly, Going to buy a ship load of worm
drive clamps and remove all OE clamps
Again a big thanks to John and Mark and all the others
Just as I was leaving, I mentioned to John that this may be why his engine temps take a long time to get to operating temperature, it's losing pressure. He did point out that this is the same spot where it was pouring out the other day, right above the dump pipe this will explains all the steam.
Again I had to leave it unfinished. In bed now just about to go sleepies.
Best to pull off both heater hoses at both ends to check, but it's definitely one. As you touch it it's squirting.
Keep us informed John.
Cut the last 50mm off just to get me mobile, Thats the first time I've
had a problem with the heater hose so maybe the new radiator made this surface.
Anyway it was a 5 min fix. I'm already onto Mark about replacements
EDIT since Ive owned it the temp has been very slow to rise.
OE gauge shows its at temp after 4k, now the ecu-talk would
show 62 degrees at the same time.
Having a heap of Hi-density foam I sliced some and forced it between the
radiator and the rad support panel along the top doing the sides will be
trickier But Ill get there. one less job lol
So what was the actual original problem?
A leaking thermostat housing?
>>>tappin from tassie
I think it was the radiator... But i'm curious to see whether it was that. With everything plugged up now and still overheats well then ...Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Also now your cars back on the road John, will see you at Roofys party !!!!??
Not think so, the bolts were pretty tight even coming out, that's what I think stuffed the thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
John did test both thermostats and both worked, and the radiator didn't look all that good, so I reckon Hodge might be right.
New radiator, new cap, new thermostat, clutch fan good resistance, water pump no leaks, so if there's a problem now it's the tiniest of things or its internal.
Have you gone for a spin yet John?
Please tell me that's its good.
ROAD REPORT::::::: went to my surgeons this morning about 35K in morning traffic. {Opposite RMH}
played up all the way but stop start traffic helped keep temps stable.
The drive home was a different matter it just got hotter and hotter, so pulled
over near Bunnings on Ballarat road for those that know, Let it cool a touch
and filled up with water, up the road same thing happen, Im really really happy
at this stage. lol So I decided to swap the rad fan relay for the aircon, doing this
enabled me to drive normally on the way home with temps staying even and
even recovering on the last 5 k of my trip. Me thinks that rad fan has not been working
But happy now I can drive it through the gears, without it overheating
Re Roofys Party Ive booked a seat with Mego, but all depends how Im feeling.
AH just to sit in those seats oooooohoooooohoo
I'm unsure whether I should say " good to hear" because as far as I can understand your message it's still overheating ???
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Since I swapped that relay over all was good can just drive normal now.
Weird but true Ha Ha believe it or not lol
I'm glad you're happy lol. Good outcome. ..
Just still confused. ...
So swapping the relay done what ? Made your aircon fan run all the time hence cooling everything?
So your vicious fan hub maybe shot then .
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Ive got no Idea TBH everyone said my viscous fan was OK
Need to pick up the missus at 3 this arvo not a big trip
but could only do 100 mtrs before that
Maybe it burped itself good no idea
FYI I did have a heli coil kit but for 5/16th
not 8mm, bloody Chev.
I will have an 8mm one by the end of the week,
to repair my thermostat housing as both holes
were flogged out.
Now to wait until Jaysee has some free time so I can fit some diff breathers all around.
That goes for anyone in the area I have plenty here dont think Ill run out soon LOL
Are you sure he's gunna let anyone actually sit in those seats. I bet he relegates everyone to the back seat unless they sign a disclaimer:)Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
This is the reason why Mick has the original 3rd row seats still in the rear...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Ill take a seat cover oh for the love of you know who its only leather.lol
On another note just went and picked up the missus 4k there 4k back
reasonably warm day with no issues.
Still need to try it on the freeway when I pick up the Helicoil set?
Nice. Take it on the highway and flog on. Only way to test it really... Limping it around the corner and back won't show anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Well im lost with whats happening the same as Hodge. The a/c fan shouldnt come on at all unless the a/c is on.
Unless yours is different...
Seems to me the viscous hub is not engaging. Dunno....
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
Me too......:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Mark, when you span the viscous hub it had no belt or plastic fan on correct. Spinning it like that it's on the bearing. With everything back on and stone cold it moved one blade.
A/c fan is only meant to go on with air con regardless of temp or when temp is high 90 or 100 degree.
When I get a chance I'm going to go back to the start and read it all.
Something doesn't add up...
Correct John. I spun the hub with no fan on it. I did it to check if it was lose. There is a procedure to check if the hub is engaging or not but I can't remember tbh how it goes. I'd have to look it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
I only know of the spin test, but it must be cold if spinning when hot you can see that is spins alot more freely.
The following taken off another siteQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Re: How do I test a viscous fan hub?
Without taking it off the vehicle, the fan hub should be locked up for about 30 secs to a minute on start-up from cold, then it should let the fan free-wheel until the temp rises above normal; so if you start it from cold and watch/listen for that 30-60 secs of engaged fan before it slackens off, then leave it sit there on a fast idle for a while with the heater on high (A/C off), maybe even put a piece of cardboard in front of the grille/radiator to limit air flow & encourage it to reach operating temp & then go over, the fan should cut in again and you should be able to see/feel/hear it when it cuts in again. Let it do it's cool down thing & then shut the engine down, the fan should stop pretty much straight away if the temp is at or above normal, if it spins on for more than one rotation on shutdown or you haven't been able to see/feel/hear the airflow increase as above, the viscous fan hub isn't doing it's thing properly.
I don't know how many times Yendor or I have to post this but anyway...
Under normal loads and conditions the A/C fan has bugger all to do for overheating.
You can take it off and hoik it down a long drop if you want.
Later model 'trols don't even have them.
Where fitted the A/C fan should run under two conditions;
Either the A/C is selected
OR
The coolant is above 100 degrees C
When the A/C fan starts running with the A/C OFF it means the engine is already starting to overheat because the coolant sensor has detected that it is at 100 degrees AFTER it has passed thru the radiator.
Ergo, unless it is a stinker of a day or you are loaded up then something is wrong
Probably a few times more [emoji6]Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
My coolant temp has been over 100c many times and the fan never comes on. Now whether my particular model is designed not to do this or not. I dont know. I might go for a drive tomorrow up the hills behind me and give it a flogging and get the water temp over 100c, which wont be hard, stop and double check on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Before you go put on the air con as if it's a 40 degree day and have a look at the fan, can't remember if you said that it works only with the air con on or never.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I'm sure it has... certainly mine did many times in the WA summersQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The 'coolant temp' temp isn't measured in the same place or by the same sensor as the Coolant Temp 100 degree switch (if fitted)
I think I just "burped" a bubble out of it ,{air pocket}
So what's new?
So far sits on 88 and recovers a bit at lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
I need to pick that heli coil kit this week and
that requires some freeway work.
I cant understand a few things after fitting all these new bits.
Like why it boiled every 100 mtrs, where as before I have done the same
trip with no dramas
Glad you got that rock out of your nostrill can be damn annoying lol
Strange, I would have thought that it would get hotter just sitting there with no airflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
If it's still getting hot under load could it be an internal problem?
Its all still pointing that way. My view hasnt changed from the start. Unfortunately you need to probably rip the head off before you cause more issues. If it keeps getting worse piston damage can occur along with the possibility of bending a rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
To start go and get a gas test done.
"Air lock" will do that, ZD30 is notorious for that, it is especially adept at doing it once you load the engine up a bit, idling or fast idling it will never do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
One way is to stop every 100 m to purge air out of it then top up the difference, LOL.
I still don't follow what was the original problem after 24 pages....
Regards
88 is no where overheating.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Agree anything under 100 is fine. I think oem thermostats don't fully open until 95Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Agree... indeed if it doesn't get to 88 I would be worriedQuote:
Originally Posted by jay see
So went for a drive to pay a bill and pick up a heli coil kit
a bit of freeway work all fine then steam pouring out the scoop.
Bummer split the other heater hose, so cut the dodgey bit off
and push it back on and used some worm drive clamps that
were in the car, I HATE those ones you need to push together
to remove Grrrr,,,,,, Any way fixed on the side of the road and topped it up
and away we went, Only took 5 mins, I have the Gates PN from
Mudski and it was on my to get list,
Oh temps were great not sure Im back Ill replace those hoses first lol
So that's a second hose that gave way in a week. Why now and not before? More pressure in the system ?
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
Most likely. After I had the head done and the radiator repaired, it was only a short time before the water pump seal gave out. i would also replace the pressure cap on the system just to make sure it is releasing at the right pressure.