Nah, the temp sender in the auto. Don't think anyone does an aftermarket one so had to go genuine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrig
Lucas
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Nah, the temp sender in the auto. Don't think anyone does an aftermarket one so had to go genuine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrig
Lucas
Ahhh ... there's two temp senders in the auto gearbox - is it the one inside the pan?? Pain in the anus to replace ...Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
If its the one for the converter, it's inside ...
They're both in the pan, screwed to the valvebody. One sends info to the tcu and the other is just for the trans temp warning light on the dash board. Replaced the one for the tcu 6 weeks ago and the problem went away for a month.... Then came back! We only replaced with a secondhand one and even tho it's a long shot that it failed so quickly, I hope that is the case. Fingers crossed that a brand new one will fix it for good
Lucas
Ok so I ordered the temp sensor, they had to get it from Japan, so I waited patiently for 2 weeks. Got it last week, booked in at the shop for this morning, got there and he tells me it'd the wrong sensor!!!! WTF!!! Ok so it must be the other one.....went in to Nissan at lunch to order the other one and it doesn't come up on their system!! Theres one there in the diagram on the screen but computer says NO it's not for a GQ, and there isn't any listings for GQ!!!!!! I've had the damn thing in my hand I know it exists!!!!! AAAAARRRRRRRR!!!
tappn it
Do you have a transmission specialist locally sometimes they get common replacement parts at great prices.
Or try
http://www.drivelineap.com.au/
http://www.eurowa.com/parts.html
I'm dealing with the only transmission specialist in the area. Trol has been in and out of there for the last 4 or 5 months.
Nothing comes up for an aftermarket sensor. Just found out its gonna be another 2 week's wait for the other temp sensor!
tappn it
Did you ring Wholesale and Nizzbits?
There are 2 sensors in the valve Control Valve Assembly
1. A/T Oil Temperature Switch (For "AT OIL TEMP" warning lamp)
2. Fluid Temperature Sensor - Nissan Part Number 31937M ( Sensor Assy-Temperature )
NOT Finished and don't quote me on part numbers just yet.............puter playing up and need to save before it locks up....crashes and I have to re write it again!!!!
Wholesale were ment to include a new sensor when I got the nomad valvebody but it was over looked, I got the impression that they didn't have one.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
I've already payed for the other sensor at the Nissan dealership and they won't refund me only swap for the other one.
As I've said above(too many times) -if it fixes the problem I don't mind waiting a bit......
tappn it
Mate if you have paid for a new one from Wholesale, ring Rodney up and get him to send you one out, at least you will have a spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
All cool, they just refunded the $. And my mechanic had a second hand one so we chucked that in and the problem was fixed......for a month or so then came back!?
tappn it
I haven't been onsite for a while, was browsing last night and came across your other thread about this, then Todd redirected me here.
Our Trol was off the road for months with a mystery electrical problem in the auto. It's been great for two weeks now, it better not go bad again :mad:
Today is a rather busy one for me, but I learnt a fair bit with our trans, and may be able to help with yours. If you don't hear from me within the next few days, reply here to remind me that I meant to read this whole thread, and see if I can come up with anything new.
Cheers mate, will do.
tappn it
Okay, well I got a lot more net time than I expected today, so I've written my auto story and read yours.
So your power light stays on after you change gears and press the power button on and off in the right sequence?Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
If so, you need to get a copy of page 41 and 42 of the AT section of Nissan's GQ workshop manual, it clearly explains how to test each of these components. No guesswork, just checking voltages at the TCU with a multimeter. It's a process of elimination.
I found this very tedious with our auto, but it was what led to fixing it.
So in less than a week this should arrive?Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Yep, the new sensor should be here any day. I'll get that fitted and go from there.
I've had all the work done by an auto specialist.
First we fitted a reco TC.
No fix.
Then pulled the box completely apart to find it in really good condition. The guy said it looked like it had done less than 5000ks after a reco. He thoroughly checked every little part/wire/oil gallery.
While it was apart we fitted an aftermarket heavy duty valvebody.
(it was ment to come with a new temp sensor)
Fitted all back together.
Still no fix!
Found that the temp sensor hadn't been replaced. Replaced temp sensor with a second hand one.
Problem fixed!!!!...........for 6 weeks then came back.
I'm hoping that the second hand temp sensor failed (even tho it would be a coincidence) and that the new one (arriving soon) will fix the problem.
If not, then I'll check the TCU resistance.
tappn it
That does sound like the most likely suspect, except that the error code doesn't match :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
If it gets to this stage, I can probably help with explaining it more if necessary. For your code the tests start at the TCU with it still connected, for mine they started in the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Cheers mate, I'll see how I go when this new sensor arrives. Fingers crossed
tappn it
bump, you got it yet or what?
Nah still waiting.......I'll call in tomorrow and see what the go is.
tappin it
Are they just sending it from Japan or making it as well *L*Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
I think they must have had to make a new mine to get the raw metals for it then build a plastics factory and raise some workers from children to put it all together!!
tappin it
Aha! It arrived "yesterday".......
tappin it
So that mean its in and working now???Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Ok so I picked up the sensor....it was the wrong one:(.
Got them to get the right one...
Two more weeks go by.....
Picked up the correct sensor last week. Booked in to get it fitted (yes I'm lazy Todd! Lol).
Picked trol up this arvo.....
Yep......the new sensor hasn't changed a damn thing.....:(:mad::(:mad::(:(:(
Hmmmm what next?
Going to borrow a Mates TCU this weekend and try that. It's from a mav with a series 2 box? (has O.D button and HOLD button?) so would that be ok?
Wish me luck!
tappin it
Not sure if the TCU will work or not, I don't know if I personally would risk plugging in someone else's TCU unless it had the same part number on it.
I better go back to the start of this thread and have a long re-read
Yeah, I wouldn't be keen to put another TCU in unless it was an exact match.
If you have any thoughts of adding a manual toque converter set up, now may be the best time to do that. It'll let you isolate whether the problem is in the torque converter, or in the sensors.
I'm almost ready to post a thread with the whole story of my manual torque converter project, should be done very soon.
Should not be the TC as you have fitted a reconditioned one.
When you got the new valve body, did you also get new solenoids or did you use your old ones?
You're right, my bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
It's not hard to test the circuit. Just undo the connector near the battery and measure the resistance between the correct terminal and earth.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
Done now My GQ manual torque converter lock up system (lotts-of-photos)Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper
mate, i feel for ya! i cant offer any advice but i can offer my condolences. this thing has been going on for you ages hey! i hope you get it fixed soon bud.
I was told by wholesale autos that a failing lockup solenoid was super rare and that it would be all good, so I assume they didn't change it.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
Everything is brand new except for the solenoid for the lockup TC. So I'm thinking it must be that.
It can only be the lockup solenoid, speed sensor, some damaged wiring, or a faulty tcu.
The vehicle behaves as it should for the first half hour or so if driving.
If I go straight onto a highway I can drive for more than an hour without the problem happening. Then if I stop for 10 mins or so, when I get back on the highway, as soon as I get to 90k/h it starts playing up! So what ever is broken will work for a while then start failing. I thought it would have to be temperature related as nothing else changes while driving.
tappin it
Thanks mate, I hope your out the back doing a voodoo dance or something for me lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
tappin it
I'm not so sure. Getting up to operating temp only takes about 10 min. These electronic boxes really can be temperamental.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Have you got a new error code since the temp sensor went in, to narrow down which circuit is the problem?
Yeah that's the thing though, I drive for about 15-20 minutes before I yet to the first 100 km/h straight. So the box should be up to operating temp. Get onto the straight, TC locks up, revs drop to around 1800rpm and all works like it should. Then after a bit more windy roads I get onto the highway, get up to 90 and the damn TC locks and unlocks rapidly......Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper
As I've said, the most puzzling thing is if I'm parked near the hwy and start up and get straight onto the hwy I can sit on 90/100/110 for over an hour with all working fine but as soon as I stop for 5 minutes and go again, the problem appears ad soon as I get to 90.......
tappin it
Just checked the fault codes again, it's the same code, which is : "inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper
But I've got no idea how to check/fix any of these!
tappin it
Lucas, fixing this is going to be a real pain.
Do you have a copy of Nissan's workshop manual?
Do you have good skills with a multi meter, or a helpful auto electrician?
I've just been looking at which pages of the manual you're going to need, and it looks ugly already.
Lol, yeah it's been a pain already!Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper
I got some instructions from wholesale autos on how to test the tcu with a multimeter but I'm not very confident at all in doing it. I also don't have much confidence in the auto electricians around here.
tappin it
Are you talking about the manual that can be downloaded from this site?
tappin it
I was thinking that as I wrote it, but now it's going to take lots of testing, where as the shop's approach seems to have been 'throw money at it and hope for the best'.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
I ended up working out what was wrong with mine myself, when the automatic shop hadn't been able to, and the auto elect. said he couldn't do any more than what the auto shop could.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
To sort this out you're going to need someone with multimeter skills. Is there and electrician (a domestic or industrial one I mean) in your area who can think outside the box? Some just shut down as soon as you mention anything to do with DC wiring.
Yes, that one, or a paper copy of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Not really. Everyone I have asked (including wholesale autos) has saidQuote:
Originally Posted by ripper
that it must be the TC, the tps or the temp sensor. So I have methodically changed those things one at a time. Another thing is that when the secondhand temp sensor was fitted, the problem went away instantly and completely for 6 weeks.....
I will go to all the auto electricians around here and have a good chat to see if any of them are willing to have a go....
tappin it
But your error code is sayingQuote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
"inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged"
Why weren't those eliminated first?