sorry bubble post...stupid phone
sorry bubble post...stupid phone
Last edited by Trolatron; 16th February 2012 at 01:54 PM.
Originally Posted by Trolatron
Thanks for the offer mate. I think that may be the go. I have a mate that can help me out if I go down that road. Cheers anyway:-)
Hello from Under Down Under!
Ive posted the following picture in another thread where i was asking if these breather lines are factory or not. Ill post it again here to keep it in one place. The line on the left comes from the front diff and the one on the right comes from the transmission and transfer case, again, id be interested to see if this is a factory option? Looks like its just a case of extending the cut off rubber a bit more and i'll have some great breather lines.
As for the rear diff, well the breather line goes straight up and is plumbed into the big steel tube/brace that joins the chassis rails (whatever its called? lol). Is this where it normally goes?
Hello from Under Down Under!
Yup thats where mine used to be, ive extended it up above where the bottle jack lives
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
Cool thanks, I think I will do the same. How about front? Is that factory?
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OK OK OK...................DAMN IT i didnt want to talk about this again..........
Ok so as you know, i had a lot of trouble with my lock out converter on the auto and then it was finally sorted. WELL it's happening again!!! AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!
heres some more about it: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ox-Electricals
So far i've found that its only once its really warmed up, and as far as i can tell only on slight up hills or downhills. Like when im doing around 90ks and i slightly accelerate or slightly deccelerate due to a slight long hill.
The problem last time was the temp sensor for the ecu in the auto. It was replaced but only with a second hand one..........So is it a coincidence that the temp sensor may have failed again?? Or could it be something that is causing the temp sensor to fail (i cant think how that could happen)?
I pretty much ran out of things to check the first time round. So im thinking it is the temp switch again. It is the exact same symptoms......
ANY thoughts would be very much appreciated
Thanks
Hello from Under Down Under!
What a bummer mate, sorry 2 hear of having drama's with the box again
I do believe there is 2 maybe 3 temp senors, so one of the other ones may have failed
And yes been a 2nd hand sensor it it cold of easily of failed again.
If I remember correctly you never put in a new Torque converter, am I remembering correctly?
Not sure of anything that contributes to the temp sensor failing, will try and look into it some more for you when I have the time.
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Have you tried the Self Diagnostics Procedure to see if it brings up an error code???
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
thanks for the reply...
Yeah they have 2 temp sensors, 1 is just for the warning light in the dash, the other is to send info to the ecu (this is the one that had to be replaced).
It has a new torque converter. The rest of the gearbox is in perfect condition inside (been reconditioned). Has the Nomad heavy duty valvebody fitted.
Seems to only have the problem when it warms up, the same as last time.
Havent tried the self diagnosis yet i'll do that this morning.
Hello from Under Down Under!
Ok I did the self diagnosis this morning (5 times and once just then at lunch) it says the problem is: inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged.
Anyone got any clues as to which it might be? Or which is the easiest to check? Haynes Book has info about inhibitor switch and power switch only.
Lucas
Hello from Under Down Under!
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