I actually don't get this at all Daz! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
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I actually don't get this at all Daz! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I think what Daz might mean Plassy is that with a flat fry pan directly on top of the new age wind shields the heat is too centralised causing uneven cooking.
Unlike traditional camping cooktops these rippers don’t have side wind wings but special circular shields around each jet thingymebob.
Does allow you to put huge water/yabby pots and woks atop exceeding the cookers width but frypans really struggle to keep to a low and slow even heat.
The raised BBQ OEM plate still finds two ‘hot spots’ above each burner but nowhere near as bad as a capped frypan if any of that makes sense [emoji23]
Great Cookers [emoji106][emoji106]
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Nope, didn't feel anything doc. Might need to see yours in action to understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Been doing a bit of Rooftop eyeballing juggling thinking and getting warmed for a quick combo far east revisit/new venture bush blast before the SC's kick in.
You'll understand. I'm speaking MB.
Copy that.......Roger wants to run ropes for me’s [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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Umm yeah I'll call ya. Can speak MB 101 level but not fluent! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Yeah so my plate sits straight in the wind shield. As MB stated it causes a real Hot spot and everything burns. The plate made for the unit has feet on it that sit the plate about 10mm to 15mm up off the shield allowing the heat to be a broader spread. In Tassie I had a wire trivet that I trialed under the plate to lift ans it helped a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
They are a waist of time though if you dont also do the action clean detailed in the YT links. The factory Low setting would at best be a High Simmer. Once rhe heat is in these things will cook your dinner on Low.
Build this ugly thing to pull the steering wheel of my Y60. It did the job, so I can't complain.
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Haha! I reckon you could use that when doing a Brake pad change too mate, thought that was what it was. Perfect for pushing that piston back.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
I saw this homemade tools thread and thought I’d post some pics of a sheet bender I made some weeks ago. I had no special reason to build it apart from the fact that I always wanted one and, after watching a few YT vids on DIY units and seeing as I had most of what I needed anyway, I decided to get into it.
It’s almost all done with DC TIG. Getting in some practice on my new Unimig Razor 200 AC/DC.
As luck would have it, I had just recently installed a diesel heater in our caravan and wanted to protect the fragile hot air tubing so I made a tunnel from 1.6mm tread plate ally all bent with this bender.
I might get around to painting it one day..
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Magnificent John Mate!
Keep them coming pretty please, truly inspiring stuff, Legendary [emoji106][emoji106][emoji736][emoji736]
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Was so excited today, our local Blacksmith brought our wacky concept to life and delivered so I quickly raced up to our little coupe for some barking mad tests:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/113.jpg
I fair dinkum got a twitch in my jocks upon first insertion:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/114.jpg
Disaster, damn thing follows the point of least resistance straight back up off the Sapwood and is exhausting attempting to keep it on a straight track to the end:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/115.jpg
Our original lightweight 5 minute popping crowbar/spuds are still number #1, was worth having a crack though, no harm no foul [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/116.jpg
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No gernie then? Seems far more productive mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Gernie….Stihl 4,200psi with power head still does have its place over the summer months when barks are locked on solid for sure Nico Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
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How dare I degrade your precious stihl mate lol. Hey I had the privilege of using a spitwater 5000psi jobbie earlier in the week, far out they are a lot of work to handle!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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[emoji23]The joys of the keyboard wording construction, my apologies Nico Mate, didn’t mean that honestly [emoji23]
Jokes aside, deliberately went with the lesser 4,200psi purchase back then as was lead to believe users needed a licence for greater than 4,500psi wicked toe cutoff variants maybe?
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Couldn't you run a line up the trunk with a chainsaw to create a path of least resistance?
Thanks John Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
That was the exact second test trialled just before giving up and going back to the old faithful spud [emoji1648][emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/118.jpg
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Just put ya snow chains on n drive along them length ways,that'll get em peeling...
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Now that is a great idea thanks Avo Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Have watched the mills out the back of Hervey Bay region use their huge loaders and skidders debarking telephone pole sized timbers, worked extremely fast but left too many black tyre marks for our finished product needs without a heap of sanding work back at the yard.
Chains on our little Kanga loader could work nicely too we’ll try firstly, might even leave a funky distressed look to the surface if they do break through.
It will hopefully help getting it started that’s for sure thanks again mate, where it gets stuck on these Sugar Gums specifically is they are self pruning in their plantation environment so the bark gets quite attached wherever the small limbs were previously hiding underneath.
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Simple question from a simple mind. Did you try dragging instead of pushing the debarking bars, Mark.
Thanks Craig Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
We’ll give that a try too this week, weather permitting. [emoji1696][emoji120]
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What about push-pull, with two bars attached. One to guide, both applying force to strip the bark?
Thanks Again Craig Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
One of the most noticeable unfortunate things I did initially find was the energy excerpted shoving versus simply dropping and leveraging the old fashioned fast bar spuds. I’ll try anything once but to keep it up for a full 8hrs is hard/impossible for me [emoji23]
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Oi MB ,are you smacking the bark with the back of the axe first....we use to ha e to over here,sort of releases the tension between bark wood....back in the day I use to do post n rails,with jarrah of course so this is just a question suggestion
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That’s the beauty too of the spud/crow bars Thanks Avo Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
When we use them to, raise/drop/raise/drop along to cut the line instead of chainsawing a line it shock/pops the bark up for approximately 25% of its top circumference, once top opened we just lever and peel off like a bark canoe. The photos above weren’t very elegant as was butchered testing all sorts of angles, walloping, scraping exhaustion [emoji51][emoji23]
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A little Red Ironbark lucky example of using my boots a few months ago with an 8kg too heavy all day crowbar to firstly cut the top popping line:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/142.jpg
Shocking definitely works AVO Mate[emoji106][emoji106]
Disclaimer: Only when the sapwood is seasonally running, Summertime no chance of this [emoji51]
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What about a spur that spikes the log and gives you traction. Drawing is not to scale.
After the initial start where you get enough meat for the spike to bite, it should let you steer and use leverage instead of brute force.
Somewhat the same concept as they use to move rail cars.
Thanks Craig Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
I’ll try Youtubey searching the rail car mover mechanism, sounds powerful for sure [emoji123][emoji1696]
EDIT: Is it similar to this one found Craigstar?
https://youtu.be/7W8c_jMVYAs
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Yeah, but using the leverage from pushing down, not lifting. Looking at it, I think it will just try and bust out the top of the bark. Anyway just a thought.
I think you'd need the spiked pivot lever at a much more acute angle (and spring-loaded for rebound), the thrust lever foot operated and the cutting head fixed (not pivoted) to optimise forward and slightly downward thrust for this to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
IMHO of course :)
Hey Markie, sorry have not been following this....Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Grab one of these for your Milwalkie drill on hammer only.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boa...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
if you have power where you are then easy on an SDSPlus Rotary hammer drill. If not then the Milwalkie Rotary hammer only will work fine. Easy as i reckon. Turn it over face down and it should make easy work of it.
https://www.wish.com/product/5d68dc3..._BwE&share=web
Any of these will make light work of it too mate.
https://www.totaltools.com.au/power-...el-individuals
Most underpinners use these to hand dig holes in Clay und3er foundations if they cant get a machine in. If you are swinging off a drill all day t will still be an easier day than swinging of a breaker bar for sure. You should be able to move around and use this like a peeler.
I have an 11kg SDS Max drill here if you want to go bigger mate, you are welcome to borrow it. I have the clay spade for it too. If you are against a brick wall then anything is better than slugging it out. we can sort out getting it over to you.
Matty is coming here on the weekend. You are welcome for a beer too ;)
Thanks Dazman Appreciated [emoji120][emoji120]
We did have two cordless hammer drills set up with exactly them years ago in the yard back at base and they did work great with heated curves customised to them [emoji106][emoji106]
Unfortunately the trees/logs had to be forklifted up singularly onto steel stands for working back height honest needs and to be honest again my stuffed wrists and even healthier young guns couldn’t do more than an hour or so at a time without real hand muscle/tendon soreness [emoji51]
Seasonal debarking is absolute key with any contraption and warmer months (summer) is nearly impossible on Ironbark once sapwoods have stopped running, even worse when its been transported out of the coupe back to forklift base and quickly stuck like shiiit to a blanket [emoji22]
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Got to try out home made Alaskan style mill over last couple of weeks. . Very happy with how she went, dropped one Yellow Stringy and grabbed anther nice log from next door to mill up some chunky rustic boards with live edge to build a fernery for the folks up at Coota. . http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2021/07/4.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2021/07/5.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2021/07/6.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2021/07/7.jpg
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Do this week I've been trying to buy some proper dust extraction for my larger tools(thicknesser and table saw) however I was advised reducing the intake with reduce the suction dramatically and would make the extractor useless(yes some here have suggested the same before too). So tonight I came up with this.
It's a 44 gallon drum I had laying around, I set an intake and out feed on the lid and jeezus! Works like a charm. Not a spec of dust in the vaccum, and heaps of chips in the drum. Thrilled with the end result.
Yes my shed is a pigsty at the moment.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/07/74.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/07/75.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/07/76.jpg
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Does the top come of that drum? Looks like it would be easy to line it with a large bag that you could empty easily [emoji106]
Top mod!
Hi mate, yes the drum lid is removable and I have a liner bag in it. Ended up being a very convenient and complete solution to be laying around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
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That is excellent! Nice one [emoji122]Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
I love these little hacks that make things easier/better [emoji106][emoji106]
Also that timber has come up nice [emoji106]