Yea pretty dirty looks like. $30 bucks a can - but you are only gonna do it once maybe twice a year at most. Can should do a couple of years at least.
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Yea pretty dirty looks like. $30 bucks a can - but you are only gonna do it once maybe twice a year at most. Can should do a couple of years at least.
New hpd billet maf housing...
Attachment 55413
Is this the hose that goes inline with the catch can? The middle one going frm inlet manifold to air intake?
Attachment 55414
Catch can mod done... Realy impressed with the quality of hpd gear... We'll designed bit of kit...
Attachment 55423
Well installed new hpd maf housing n new hpd catch can... Sprayed and cleaned all sensors.. stil wont start first pop...hmm.. thinking about ripn off intake manifold n givn that a good clean.. replacing glow plugs. Doing nad mods and start on pillar pod n gauges... also need to leave it at locksmiths for good part of a day to get my drivers door lock mechanism sorted... hopefully others that hav similar problems cn learn frm this thread... will post pics n update thread as i go through mods n problem solvn gremlinz...
After a bit of swearing and frustration managed to get the door open... gona take off the lock mechanism and give it a clean and see if its not completely gone.. if i can save myself 350 frm buyn a new lock mech frm nissan thn happy days...
Good luck with that,mine completely gone,think i read somewhere a bloke put in some roll pins where the factory rivets had worn,they act as pivots and wont allow the unlock mechanism to function properly or lock as the case may be,as for starting is it cranking fast enough,an electrician told me starter motors are looking to fail after about 10 years,dunno if thats true.
hi 3speed.. little update.. tried to clean/and get the lock mech workn.. no luck.. its as u described above.. will open and shut just won't lock.. so off to wangara tomorrow for new one...at least i saved a couple hundy in labour getn the door trim removed n the door opened.. also since i cleaned all sensors including maf sensor.. its improved.. like it usually starts first click or sometimes upto 3-5 clicks as before it was taking around 10-15 clicks to it finally decided to start... still has the random high idle problem in the background... am going to check all earth straps tomorrow.. have a look at the starter and alternator... its gotta be something small.. cause once started it drives mint... just not happy when it doesnt start first click... once i get high idle and hrd start issue sorted i can get started on nad mods, install my new gauges.. finish upgrading sound system and wire up my led lights... few things on the go..
Well done on getting the door open ....Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
My advice is to change the lock mechanism as soon as possible as they can also fail after they get worn when the door is shut but not locked, so now it is open don't muck around with it
Getting there buddy getting there ,have you tried swapping the
EMC relay with the aircon one yet to see if that improves things.
then swap them back
ye I'm off to replace door mech today not to keen on a repeat with trying to get the door unlocked again.. lol was a mission...cheers for that tip 3dogs.. will give it a go and see if anything improves/changes... slowly get there...
Think of it this way ,,,,by the time you sort it all out you will know your Patrol inside and out.
That has to be a good thing lol
New door mech.. 350 alone.. Clips and actuators are all extra... So I have to combine my old wiv new to make one complete working unit..Lol.. Also while driven to Nissan I had air-con on... Noticed that when i put the foot dwn the air con would blow more air/at least sound louder and would be in sync with revs... Almost like I would up the revs befor gear gange and so would aircon.. Change gear and revs drop n aircon go bak to normal... I'm wandering if this is all related.. Like if it idles high you can turn aircon on and revs drop then skittle bit late revs go bak up u can turn aircon on n off again and it drops the high idle... Only little things but still doing my head in...
Attachment 55488
check the voltage at the back of the alternator and see what you get
also check battery voltage while you're at it,
Re read what 3speed said.
How oily was your IC, you said it was oily when you took it off,
give it a clean with petrol and tape up one end and pressurize it
with a bike pump, unless of course you have a tigged one already.
Make sure the IC is dry before you re install it,[hair dryer]
Hmmm. Electric door lock playin up, starter sounds like it cranking slow, engine bay recently washed... Im thinking the GU high resistance earth syndrome. I would be checking the engine bay and all connections for corrosion or loose plugs. Arm yourself with a can of wd40 and go exploring. Rear of alternator as said above, battery terminals and lugs and the earth connections to the starter motor itself. that air conditioner fan slowing down with revs sounds like high resistance earth somewhere. Try the same thing with your lights on high beam. If it voltage related it will probably be worse. could also effect your original hard start prob if low volts = glows not getting as hot as they could quickly = slow cranking = hard start.
Its possible that high internal resistance batteries can give good volt reading but no good under load. Might be worth getting a autl lectrickery bloke or mechanic to do a load test on battery.
Thnks for all the advice guys.. Just havn a crack at finish fixing this door lock... Just so hot outside.. It doesn't crank slow.. It just likes to play wiv my feelings.. Wil start first pop like 3-4 times in a row and I'm like ah ok I might had fixed it nxt Minit it won't start til like 5th click. Lol.. Once I finsh this lock mech.. Il check alt n batt voltages and report back... Once again thnks to all those who have commented and helped out...
Attachment 55490
Pic of my hybrid.. Old + new = hopefully fixed.. Lol
did you notice how a few of us all went for battery/alternator/bad earth
Yep just about to check earth straps.. Battery.. Relays and lose wiring, alternator etc... Quick update.. We'll I finally fixed door lock mech.. Locks and unlocks with key frm inside n out.. Central locking all wrkn etc... Happy days.. I thought befor I throw door card back on i would upgrade front speakers with a spare set of 6.5 inch pioneer splits I had lying arnd.. Will quickly put these bad boys in and if this sun eases up il have a crack at checkn all the above...
Shite Mullet the sun is still shining here so you have plenty of "sun light" left lol
I knw.. Haha getn sweaty as forehead...
Great to see your having a win mate.
One step at a time hey.
So if you have access to a multi meter check what the alternator is doing. Sounds like it could possible be on the way out.
But getting there
Check both batterys.. both look good.. how do i check the alternator? Just peel red plug at top of alternator and check frm there?
Ok checkd alternator.. and its all good.. pumpn out 14 votls of electrical goodness... quick visual n feel of earth straps.. they look all good.. tight/clean and no fraying... the more i do and look the easier it is to start... it will start first click.. 5 at the most.. as compared to easy 10-15 atempts befor i startd tryn to solv the high idle/hrd statn... go new set of glowiez.. not cheap but i wnt to change them too.. just want to elimnate all possibiltys so i can have this bad boy running mint....do these have like a stepper motor for the high idle switch or when u turn on aircon? Another quick question... where can u feed through wires frm engine bay through firewall? Need to feed through my amp wiring and another power cord for gauges etc...
Ok found a better way of getn wires through firewall... push them through frm under the dash.. as its to hrd to get them through frm the engine bay side cause of the brake booster... fused.. soldered and heat shrinked. I only like to do things once/right the first time... none of this silver ducktape nonsence like what was in here befor. Lol
I think on your model its all electronic. So no puller for the ac, it's all electronic signal.
Ye im guessn it could be a sensor... well 3 hrs later and i just finsh cleaning up all the wiring.. all new terminals, heat shrinked and everything covered in corrugated tubing.. everything fused and tidy.. nw just need to finsh running rca n amp power cord to rear tomorrow then happy days.. start havn a crack and puting my new gauges in...
Intercooler wasnt oily.. just the ic piping? Will test for peace of mind tho... cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Possibly cleaned prior to sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
If it's not to much trouble pull the hosing off the intake manifold and check.
If your keen one way of cleaning spot and carbon is a water methanol injection.
Google it. It's very interesting. Lol. When you have a sec.
I've already pulled the inter cooler and no oil in and around... Just a bit of oil inside inter cooler pipes.. Will tape up and check for bubbles with bike pump.. . And will see what boost gauge has to say once installed... If it leaks then il be getn me a new one... No biggy.. I was gona splash out and get either a cross country or monster inter cooler but will most probly settle for a tigged up factory replacement...
Try this mob mate. I got one and works fine.
http://www.brownsradiators.com.au/sh...ory=Nissan_CAC
Cheers for the heads up...
Will be needing a new set of shoes for the bus pretty soon/when the funds permitt.... Lookn at going 33x12.5s and going to go muddies again... What's everyone running? Pics, prices, recommendations?
May I suggest you go 305s they look better
these are Mickey T MTZs
Just saying for the price CC charge for their IC do you think your EGTs will justify the priceQuote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
I have a tigged OE number my EGTs sit on 200c-300c all day long, and idle at 150c
I cant justify the cost for your return, got to remember its only a 4 cylinder.
you dont want HP you want Torque and trucks loads of it if possible.
money better spent elsewhere IMO
Cheers 3dogs.. yep im hearing ya... also advised by other forum members tigged factory replacement is the way to go... ye i like the agressive tread pattern of the micky t's... but i dont like there agressive price tag... hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Aw and 3dogs... nice lookn rig.. gota be happy with that ayy.. mind u are we ever satisfyed? Lol
I like your HJ ute or what ever is in your Avatar;
ATM Im after an early holden wagon 59-64, want to slot a V6 commodore and auto in it
for a daily driver
This was my hz prem... swaped for my new bus.. plus cash my wayy...pic of my old hj one tonner.. 355 stroker.. sold that also.. just a couple of many old holdens ive had ovr the years...
The trusty 80... my bro in law just bort this off me...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321223558...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Here's a reasonably priced tigged IC for your consideration if yours is US