http://www.millweld.com/a/Airboxes
http://www.bmcairfilter.com/eng/car-...344-21/420/art
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Give BD a call on Tuesday - Scotty will certainly tell you what its for.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Will do Tuesday, thanks Phil. Just checked Marks Adaptors website and their kit doesn't seem to have it pictured or listed either.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2017/04/6.png I'm now learning/thinking its got something to do with the input shaft GM-Nissan extension and or their mentioned thrust bearing extension carrier.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2017/04/7.png Lot's of little extra bits in there too I never new existed.
http://www.marks4wd.com/mfk605cd.html
Do you know if Scotty uses Marks kits or they have their own inhouse adaptor setup mate? Cheers!
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Don't know who's kit they use, but for something as significant as a lub point it should be highlighted. I am going to have a look at my docs now and will come back with anything of value.
Nothing in BD docs about the grease nipple. I am going to call Greg on Tuesday about having then clearly define how to bleed the injection system, as I got a gulp of air when running off the aux. tank on a steep downhill section and the engine spluttered to a stop. It was a pretty stressful 10 minutes trying to reprime when the filter bowl is full, the hand pump hard and no bubbles anywhere, what next? If cracking an injector, which one or how many, and as you know the pump is in the 'valley' and 80 percent cover erred by the air cleaner. Got it going in the end by pumping and cranking at the same time but took 2 people, what is the system if there is just me?Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Crack all the lines at the injector and crank until you see fuel coming from them. This can be done in 15-20sec goes until fuel is visible at all injectors. Then just tighten them all back up and it should start, maybe a little rough at first on the odd occasion but will clear itself.
As for the bellhousing adaptor grease point this shouldnot require much at all. 1 pump each 10k service will be heaps. Or piss it off and go a proper auto and never look back.
Thanks for that. Pain in the arse location to get to the pump unfortunately, even harder with the car pointed down hill. but do able..Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I know I have worked on these. The injectors are easy enough to get to though. Should be a 17mm nut so just an open end spanner should be all you will need. Should always bleed them at the injector end.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Thanks heaps Mat mate! Being that it hasn't had a single pump in over 50k would 5 pumps you reckon be over the top mate, maybe just 2 or 3 to be safe?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Just 1 mate. If you worried say do 1 now and another in 1000km then maybe another 1000k after that then go out to 10k. You really dont want much at all in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Roger that, will do, Cheers for the advice as always mate!!
Mark, I don't have this fitting on mine, or at least I can't see it in the same location as yours. Is your truck a manual or auto? I will check with BD on tuesday anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
You haven't seen under my bonnet Mat! Anyway, I have locked the info away for a time in the future when it gets me again. Appreciate the specific heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Phil
Thanks Phil mate, greatly appreciated! I am still running the stock as was in bought manual GU tough as f#ck box. Mat I believe is just reinterating to me his kindly advised power shift momentum spikes to an auto for us all, which is no doubt the best 6.5 advice :-) Personally do love the 2,000rpm - change - 500rpm - change 2,000rpm change wanky noise build up :-) Sorry Mat mate, autos just make me so nervous as I don't understand them and to be honest clutch work gives me something to do ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Totally different engine to operate than the old 2.8TD which loved and needed to be revved to get it going. Agree, mine chuffs along at the 2000 - 2400rpm and love that 'rumbling sound' - think there is a song about that - Copperhead Road - luv it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Mark if you had an allison behind that you would never look back mate. Such a great box and they really make something like the pox 6.5 shine. The allison can be programmed as well which is great and you can have a tow mode. This tow mode can have it behaving very much like a manual. It will lock the convertor from 2nd gear and will also downshift on decel like a manual which is fantastic for downhill control while towing. You can also have a manual mode so you can flick up and down gears as you please. They are really a good thing especially with the very short torque band engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Im pretty sure ET converted his to an auto although he used a 4L transmission.
It is great advice thanks again Mat mate and will definitely investigate the Allison auto a bit further down the track. Do like the sound of the tow mode and the manual mode option too! I'm a little bit fuddy duddy scared of electrical stuff, this truck is my first ever with electric windows :-)
Not convinced about the 'POX 6.5' comment. Mine goes fine, and after drowning an auto and destroying it, you could NEVER get me behind another one, regardless of the attributes for towing..
It's all good Phil mate :-) I have seen first hand what Mat can achieve from higher revving diesels for a quarter of the coin! Just a bit of healthy educational banter to and fro as we've done well after midnight on Roofy's donk party :-) Our current usage needs for the Vic-HC will find keeping everything as simple as possible through the mud the blood and the....:-) Mat is right, ET too, an auto will change if set correctly at the optimum RPM range in the Outback for sure!!
Dont stress mate it is only my opinion and if you go back through this thread you will find it has always been the same. What matters is I still offer the advice regarding these as I do have a little experience with these. I have rebuilt these engines, diagnosed fuel systems and repaired them, driven them in the factory fitments and also patrol fitments. I will always offer suggestions and can sometimes be a little passionate about it as I do just want people to get the most from their conversions regardless of what I think if the engine. But thats all they are, I am and cannot make you do anything, I am just trying to keep you and the people informed and possibly even provoke some more research on the subject. You can lead a horse to water.....Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
For whats its worth I have also driven a duramax powered patrol with around 500rwhp. If it wasnt for the allison behind it then it would have been a pig to drive.
That's fine, understood and not mortally wounded. You have validated your comments ant I accept your perspective.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Can we all be friends now fellas :-) @ Rainsey Graham mate, how's that Manometer going? You are a busy man I know sorry mate, stay the cause though in good time ;-)
Quick Q. What's the average running temp of a 350 chev, straight gas ?
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My old one years back used to love running between 90-95D in my yahoo days Kat, of course would depend on the TS installed and what your using it for I would imagine.
The pig runs at about 80 then gets hot towing. Just weighing up whether to get a new water pump. I know the engine is tired, but I need to start using it for work.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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It could still also be the thermostat Kat, only issues cooling I ever experienced on the old girl were them stuck halfway or thereabouts. They're cheap enough to try first, maybe say an 82D or 85D being that our cold Vic winter is approaching. Boil up the old one in a pot of water to see what it does too for the hell of it. Blocked radiators also gave me grief but was fortunate enough to never have a pump go mate. Johno99 might also have some better knowledge too Kat as he seems to have a business with 350 Chev donk classics daily working on them!
Thanks Mark, it's not currently running a thermostat and I did a radiator flush today, but may need to pull it out and get done properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Most welcome, definitely does need a thermostat put back in Kat, even when a TS is full open it still restricts the flow for some cooling time in the radiator.
High flow, do you think ? Or just standardQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Its just a stock donk yeah, no crazy lumpy cams or anything mate? Stick with a standard for now I'd say best.
Hey sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Ive been madly catching up on my home renovating needs since we have finally ( touch wood) got some clear weather. Got a 4 days away up coming weekend with the missus for our wedding anniversary so definitely won't be using it there...Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Weather holding, I'll get back into the pressure measurements week after.
Stay tuned.
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No stress mate and congratulations on another good year, Happy Anniversary you two!
Hi MB,
From our discussions on Hi output alternators.
this is the web site I was referring to.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/index.html
cheers
by the way, great donk party
That reminds me Mark, if you want that TD42 alternator it's all yours. Doing a shed clear out soon so would be good to get rid of it to be honest
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Thank you very much Ralph mate, appreciated!!Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Thank you too Chrisso mate, great folks allofya ;-) !Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Navi's video below may help someone out there for 6.5/Trol/Manual-5Stock ratio outa the mountains test, 2,500Rpm/110kmph ;-) https://youtu.be/pdWUAP6vj7M
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My BD supplied aftermarket alternator/vacuum pump died on the trip home from the donk party, after a mammoth 2496klm ex new fit net. Looks like the insulation has broken down with a lot of brown/black dust blown out the rear of the casing. BD are sending over a replacement but it's the same make, so might have to look at alternatives, such as stock Nissan in future.
Think I might have found my dream alternator gents and bulletproof too they reckon :-)!
http://www.delcoremy.com/getmedia/37...-6-16.pdf.aspx
215amps with 121amps at idle.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2017/05/2.png
It is bulky but measured it up this morning and in theory should just fit drivers side behind the power steering reservoir with a 200mm supported extension shaft to pickup the existing Mitsubishi alternator V belt inline.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/05/79.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/05/80.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/05/81.jpg 121amps at idle should power the 6hp Warn/Mahle motor no sweat :-)
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I thought I was the only one setting myself next to impossible tasks! Good luck with this one Mark, the brackets are going to be a head twist, especially mounted off the engine and with the shaft extension. Make sure you use self aligning bearings/pillow blocks i reckon and these need to take the belt tension, so the alternator shaft doesn't see the tension load at all. I look forward to your adventure!!!! I am guessing the config is something like pulley, then a pair of spaced pillow blocks on a plate, shaft coupled to the alternator, would probably go for a coupling that allows for minor misalignment.