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Thanks, yep the switches will be positioned properly. Do you know of any remote switches that work with the GP solenoids? I haven't really looked at these to be honest but a remote would be a great handy thing to have.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryan277
A quick Ebay search and looks like most kits have a reciever which you could easily wire up to trigger the solenoid. .
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As roscoe said they all work the same so brand of solenoid does not matter. I have a GP as well but mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. The receiver is mounted at the front right just under the front lip of the bonnet.
My controller and receiver is the same as the picture.
Another advantage is that if you need to check/test/respool under load before the next adventure you can easily do this on you own.
Cheers Trevor
I have suspicion that terminals 1,2 & 3 are another set of contacts. Do you have a meter you can check that? As per your drawing terminal 2 doesnt need to be thereQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Pretty sure 1,2 & 3 justt control the LEDs, not sure about number 2 tho not sure why you would need that? Mine is wired up so when you push up on switch upper light comes on and down on switch lower light comes on and isn't illuminated when dash lights turned on. Thiknig about having a fiddle and putting 1 to power with dash lights then it should be illuminated when dash lights on, then bridging 4 & 6 to 3 then should illuminate upper light when winching out or in . . . In theory lol but think upper light does come on within switch with the normal on off ones anyway. Anyway need to see if it all works in practice lol, will start playing with mine, have a winch freespool switch coming in the mail so will have a play soon. .
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So my bits finally arrived from ARB. New bumpers, two extra aerial tabs and a noo sticker.
Just a tad nervous on welding the tabs on. I’m an ok welder but if I feck it up it would have been a waste waiting for them. Hmm. Do I go for it or ring my mate who is a professional welder? And wait for him to do it, which may be over the weekend.
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If in doubt, wait for the pro- its only 2 days away and doubt you could get anything done to the bar until monday? Or forge ahead, and take a leap of faith - they are not structural and I am guessing all you want is a nice looking bead?
Well the impatient prick I am. Welded them. Gotta say. I’m actually happy with my welds. A little bit of spatter to clean up but the runs across the top I’m happy with.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
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Looks fine, good job - I would not have been able to wait either!
Thanks. It was killing having to wait for ARB to fire up the old machine to make the bumpers.
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Nice neat job mate, well done.
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the bar is off to the sandblaster and powdercoaters as we speak. Hopefully have it tomorrow or early next week!
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I replaced the light bar and spottie switches with the new winch switches and got these fancy Narva push button switches, which are smaller, for the other side (RHS) of the dash cowling. As in the GU the area on the RHS of the cowling you cannot fit the usual Carling style rocker switches. God I hope I've done the pre wiring right at the switches...
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Just bench test it before it all goes together. Use the indicator lamps from the bullbar or something like that for a test load.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Got the bar back from the sand blasters and powder coaters yesterday. Getting thereAttachment 81286
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Came up good except for where I did my hole patch up work. It’s quite obvious, but it looks a heap better now. So I’m not too concerned. Yet.
I also had all the special washers, and one of the adjuster stops zinc plated. The other stop would not come out so it stayed in the bar.
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I have the viscous hub apart with radiator out too. Took 4ml of oil out of the hub as it’s constantly locked on. Hopefully this will be enough to let it not be on all the time.
This is what they look like inside them....
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Mark, how do you fill the hub, as its split or through a port of some description? How exactly is the shearing action achieved in the coupling and do you know if the liquid acts like some sort of balancer on the front of the water pump? Interested to understand how the fluid flows around inside the unit. BB can up really good I think also, well done.
To fill the hub, there is four bolts holding the two halves together. Remove the bolts then let the hub sit with the mounting flange facing upward and let it sit for a while to let the oil go into the other half of the hub, split the hub in half and that pictured above is exactly how you see it wen first opened. Except without the blue silastic everywhere, This hub has been opened many times.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
So how the hub works is....Watch this actually. Its really well explained...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwM4OqsLek4
Thanks mark, bit clearer than the other couple of youtube clips I watched. Its not dissimilar to a drive fluid coupling I have used - unsure why I thought it was.
So not happy with how the current Redarc water temp sensor was fitting by the mechanic years ago I have decided to change it. The way it was, the probe wasn’t even in the stat housing as the adapter was too long.
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Upon remove the stat housing cover and sticking my finger in there I couldn’t even feel the probe. At all. So I was wondering how accurate my water temps actually are. Whether the readings were more so residual temps from the block heating up rather than actual water.
So I put the sensor in the lid where the low water sensor was and drilled and tapped a new spot next to it for the low water sensor. Now to find something to plug up the hole where the temp sensor was...
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It will be interesting to see if this makes any difference
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It should make a difference. The probe will be swimming now..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Shit mate I reckon you might've just solved the kettle!
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I'm not counting on it but I sure bloody hope it makes a difference for the better.
Does the probe 'trigger anything' or just indicate?
The sensor I moved to the top housing is for the Redarc water temp gauge. I had to make a new hole for the low water sensor too....Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
OK, so you will indication quicker as to when it is boiling. I was wondering if it used to trigger aux fans for cooling or a hammer that clonks on your head to say, 'slow down'?
Why did you choose to go Post Thermostat rather than make it work pre thermostat? I would have either cut down the adapter or the probe case or both to give it length into the pre thermostat position. I have actually removed the factory one completely and have my redarc prob there but no longer have a working factory gauge which was junk anyway.
I couldn't cut the adapter down as there is not enough meat on the adapter. Going from M12 to 1/8 npt theres maybe half a mm left to play with if I cut the adapter down. Too risky of the adapter breaking. My first option I thought of was to drill and tap out the existing hole to M14 then I can use a different adaptor which would allow the probe to sit further in, but that mean removing more apart. Being time restricted and Licola getting closer I'm pushing my limits for time now. To be honest I hadn't really though much into the probe being pre or post stat. Alternatively I could put the Redarc sensor where the factor one is and just move the factory one to the top of the housing. I know the factory gauge is junk, but I like to have everything working. Thats my OCD showing there. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
You think its going to make much of a difference/ matter is the sensor is post stat? Being post I would have thought its a more accurate reading as its reading the temp of the coolant leaving the engine. Which would be actual temp. I could be wrong on that. Probably am, just makes sense to me.
No I have a switch on the dash to turn on the thermo fans if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
This is the adaptor type I was looking at before I did my install, but the sensor I had was a 1/4" NPT.
https://www.enginemaster.com.au/aero...female-1-8-npt
I ended up getting a brass M12 x 1.5 to 1/4" NPT adaptor and cutting the male thread length down so that it screwed in flush to the thermostat housing. There were no shorter M12 to 1/4" adaptors that I could find as the thread sizes are quite a similar hole size. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/06/142.jpg
Thats how far out the sensor was sitting on mine. The sensor is no way near the water flow as it was. Even when its flush on the housing the tip of the sensor is barely in. On a side note. Can I buy that plug from you? I need this to plug up my housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
Edit : And are you coming to Licola? If not. Why?
Yeah Enzed made me an adapter for about $5. While I waited.
The issue is Daz. The thread in the lower hsg is M12. The probe is 1/8 npt. To get the probe in far enough where it was. Won’t work with M12 thread. There’s just not enough meat in the adapter to make it work.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Post stat I think, is the best option. It’s actual temp right after the stat. So it’s pretty much real time water temps.
Time will tell anyway.
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Sure thing, you can have that old plug. I'll give it to you. I don't throw anything out [emoji2357]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I'd love to come to Licola, the wife isn't so keen so I might try to sneak an overnight in by myself [emoji106]
Thanks. Im pretty sure I have my old plug, somewhere. I just need to sift through the boxes of crap I have. If I can't find it I'll let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
It would be great for you to come to Licola. We all have an absolute blast when we are there.
[emoji106][emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
hey mate, how much did it cost for the powder coating of the bullbar? did they snad blast it first? I have a rear Kaymar bar that i am thinking of getting done before selling it, trying to figure out if it will be worth it to make a little more on the sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
$480 for the sand blasting and powdercoating. I wouldn't bother if your selling it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Not much getting done with the bar and winch. I have so much else to do as well.
I used the last of my oil filter stock today from when I sold the business.
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Chucked in a new fuel filter while I was at it.
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Removed the rocker cover as it was leaking a tap. Then decided to sand it back and I will paint it. Yes I am a bit eccentric sometimes. Lol
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Then. There’s the interior...
I need to get a new head unit. And run wires through to the engine bay for the winch. Then put the dash back together.
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Hey @mudski Do you not have a Members Ride thread already? dd you want me to rename this thread and move it to the Members ride section for you? seems to have morphed well beyond a simple himount and bar thread. You look busy by the way. Looking good mate.
I did Darren but the site I was using to upload the pics shut down, or something happened, can't remember to be honest, and all the pics wouldn't work. I got the shits with it so I just left it. If you can rename it, Mudski's GU Build thread, or something or something like that, and move it that would be great! Thanks Darren.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD