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Thread: Y62 Operating temps

  1. #11
    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    This motor also runs 4 X O2 sensors. The front 2 control engine tuning. So if you’ve replaced your headers you’ll need to recalibrate your front O2 sensors. The rear O2 sensors are just advisory and have no input into engine management.


    Gong him Red!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plasnart View Post
    Holy farrk.. headers done, new exhaust, intake changed, thermostat changed, fan clutch changed, now it’s misbehaving with temps. Why are people so shocked when their motor cracks the shits after being fucked around with? Why are you doing all this to a proven and reliable V8 grunt god? Keep it simple stupid. How many times do I have to say this? What are you trying to build?

    Yes the VK56DE fan roars on startup. That is normal. Read your user manual as to the ECU engine startup sequencing, and don’t frig around with a proven donk (although I did put a nice cat-back exhaust on mine for the tunes!) lol
    I dont remember asking your opinion on what to do with my V8. If you can answer the question answer it or move on. Be respectful.
    All mods are support mods for better breathing in the desert heat. There is nothing fucking around with the engine unless you put a blower on it and start pushing more power. That roar is mot there may be tuner messed up with the fan speed chart. My only question was what are the normal operating temps for y62.

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    pollenface (4th March 2025)

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plasnart View Post
    This motor also runs 4 X O2 sensors. The front 2 control engine tuning. So if you’ve replaced your headers you’ll need to recalibrate your front O2 sensors. The rear O2 sensors are just advisory and have no input into engine management.
    The only reason for a tune was to fix the AFR. The O2 sensor are working within normal range.

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsbashraf View Post
    The only reason for a tune was to fix the AFR. The O2 sensor are working within normal range.
    Good. Move along then.


    Gong him Red!!

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    Patrol Guru pollenface's Avatar
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    why are you being a dick, he's just asking a simple question.

    If I had a y62 I'd give a better answer, but I typically see 92-95c up hills and 87-89c around town with a 3.0L CR
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon

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    Quote Originally Posted by pollenface View Post
    why are you being a dick, he's just asking a simple question.

    If I had a y62 I'd give a better answer, but I typically see 92-95c up hills and 87-89c around town with a 3.0L CR
    Thank you. For me it is other way around. Pushing full throttle on dunes temps are 92-93, in traffic it goes up to 98c than comes down 93-95 and keeps cycling.

  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsbashraf View Post
    Thank you. For me it is other way around. Pushing full throttle on dunes temps are 92-93, in traffic it goes up to 98c than comes down 93-95 and keeps cycling.
    I dont see any issue with this variance, its completely normal. If the numbers were 120 degC, yes you have a problem. The temps will rise as a function of the energy you are putting into your 'system'. A typical radiator will shed 10 - 14 deg across the core. If the ambient temps are high the efficiency drops in the heat transfer. Whilst the engine is running high speed , on the dunes you have airflow stripping away the heat. In traffic, you are reliant on the fan to suck air over the coil, and you are stationary so the efficiency goes down. Add an a/c heat load and the numbers increase. Heat can be dissipated by conduction radiation and convection. Tine bay effectively like when moving, so you end up adding the heat to the already hot engine bay, and it becomes a heat dump. As stated above the best heat transfer sitation is when the air temps are far apart, such as 1 degC air temp and 40 degC air temp , but when the car is stationary, the block temp could be 150degC , the water is 95degC, and this pushes the water temps up, and the little radiator with the heat load from the a/c and ambient temps of 40 degC say, you run the system on the limit. Anyway, in summary, if it isn't boiling and blowing radiator hoses and caps and sitting where you say it is, I dont think its a problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    I dont see any issue with this variance, its completely normal. If the numbers were 120 degC, yes you have a problem. The temps will rise as a function of the energy you are putting into your 'system'. A typical radiator will shed 10 - 14 deg across the core. If the ambient temps are high the efficiency drops in the heat transfer. Whilst the engine is running high speed , on the dunes you have airflow stripping away the heat. In traffic, you are reliant on the fan to suck air over the coil, and you are stationary so the efficiency goes down. Add an a/c heat load and the numbers increase. Heat can be dissipated by conduction radiation and convection. Tine bay effectively like when moving, so you end up adding the heat to the already hot engine bay, and it becomes a heat dump. As stated above the best heat transfer sitation is when the air temps are far apart, such as 1 degC air temp and 40 degC air temp , but when the car is stationary, the block temp could be 150degC , the water is 95degC, and this pushes the water temps up, and the little radiator with the heat load from the a/c and ambient temps of 40 degC say, you run the system on the limit. Anyway, in summary, if it isn't boiling and blowing radiator hoses and caps and sitting where you say it is, I dont think its a problem.
    I think you are right. The last time on dunes i pushed the engine but temps never went above 94-95 c even on full throttle, and i also heard a brief fan roar may be 3,5 seconds tops. This seems to me Nissan way of doing things with the ECM controlled fan. Will see how it operates in summer heat since currently ambient temps are at 20-30c.

    I would love an input from y62 owner on the normal temps.

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    I have left the vehicle on idle the fan always turns on at 98c. I dont think 98 c is normal at idling in ambient temps at 20c. I am going to tuner to return ecu to stock. I think tuner messed up the Cooling Fan graph.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hsbashraf View Post
    I have left the vehicle on idle the fan always turns on at 98c. I dont think 98 c is normal at idling in ambient temps at 20c. I am going to tuner to return ecu to stock. I think tuner messed up the Cooling Fan graph.
    Update: the ECU was returned to stock but it made no difference. Now if hold the fan i can hold is no resistance. Even with temps at 99,100c. The fan is barely spinning if i let it go. But strangely if i restart the vehicle the fan starts to run on full speed…. I am lost here…

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