2"lift steering wheel of center, everything is stock

[Fireblade]

It’s odd when I first measured the lhf was 58cm and that what was making me say is low.
But I went back and measured and they all read same now 59cm honestly the first time I was probably hust being careless.

I’m confident now it’s sitting well. Curious to know how my number compare to others so I have an idea what lift I’ve got. Also would like advice on either 2 or 3 degree caster bushes some say 3degree would hurt off road flex but feel like the numbers call for them

[Bidja]

OK recon U have 2" lift coils, Looking @ front 590-15(spacers) = 575 mm. Mine with Dobinson 2" lift coils measure 570mm but winch fitted, steel 3/4 ARB steel rack and ARB steel side rails with steps. Dobinson state that there 2" coils with winch gives lift 40mm. Don't know about using spacers rather do with correct coils..

Rear runs level with front but with air bags @ 8psi, but have draws and rear bar(90kg) hanging out back. Deflated sits 10mm lower which one would expect with the extra load out back..It is the set up that suits me for ride and to handle as I always run level with airbag adjustment.

With caster correction, understand rule of thumb is 1 deg / inch of lift is required, but stock tolerance is +/- 1 deg. Some get away with doing nothing. I had mine set up by competent shop (not a tyre joint) and they corrected with 2 deg bushes. Thought that caster correction prevented car from wandering not just pulling to the left. Mine was OK even before castor correction to drive. Never had an alignment or steering problem since new.

[Fireblade]

Love the info bidja
So I’ve got around 2 and a half lift in the front including the spacers then.
I’d be happy to go 2degree bushes then.
I’d be doing the bush install by self wish me luck haha

[Fireblade]

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just wanted to share this, the caster specs say minimum 3 degrees i have 0.08 & 0.14 according to the wheel alignment
ive settled for 2 degree bushes (rubber)

reasons are because rubber is better off road while i dont do alot i still want some ability without hindrance
and 2 degree is also better than 3 degree bushes for off roading because it doesnt hinder as much as 3 degree bushes.

at the end of the day these caster bushes are going to effect flex iv been told but again im not a serious off roader.

so my specs will be bellow the spec of 3 degree but im hoping itll be un noticable and 2 degree should help the car hold a straight line.
i will continue to update on how i go with this in the hopes to help others and get other advise .
thanks

[Ben-e-boy]

Capture.JPG

just wanted to share this, the caster specs say minimum 3 degrees i have 0.08 & 0.14 according to the wheel alignment
ive settled for 2 degree bushes (rubber)

reasons are because rubber is better off road while i dont do alot i still want some ability without hindrance
and 2 degree is also better than 3 degree bushes for off roading because it doesnt hinder as much as 3 degree bushes.

at the end of the day these caster bushes are going to effect flex iv been told but again im not a serious off roader.

so my specs will be bellow the spec of 3 degree but im hoping itll be un noticable and 2 degree should help the car hold a straight line.
i will continue to update on how i go with this in the hopes to help others and get other advise .
thanks

It's going to be better than it was thats for sure. But It will still be crappy because you still wont have enough castor. You may not notice it and think its acceptable until you ride in/drive one where the castor is bang on. Then you'll understand.

The nissan front end it very sensitive and will have odd characteristics unless its geometries are in spec. (The infamous patrol wheel wobble comes to mind) it is best to the castor bang on, as this is also going to effect front diff pinion angle and kingpin inclination.

Edit. To put it into perspective you want to have 2 degrees castor, 1.5 degrees less castor than the stated ideal (3.5 degrees) on system with 1 degree of tolerance. That places your vehicle 150% out of stated ideal spec, 100% completely out of spec

[Fireblade]

It's going to be better than it was thats for sure. But It will still be crappy because you still wont have enough castor. You may not notice it and think its acceptable until you ride in/drive one where the castor is bang on. Then you'll understand.

The nissan front end it very sensitive and will have odd characteristics unless its geometries are in spec. (The infamous patrol wheel wobble comes to mind) it is best to the castor bang on, as this is also going to effect front diff pinion angle and kingpin inclination.

Edit. To put it into perspective you want to have 2 degrees castor, 1.5 degrees less castor than the stated ideal (3.5 degrees) on system with 1 degree of tolerance. That places your vehicle 150% out of stated ideal spec, 100% completely out of spec

other than 2-3 degree caster correction bushes i dont know what my options are. cast correction arms come to mind but that gets into big $$$.
mayby drop boxes? to correct cast im not sure if these do that and if so to what degree. also a more expensive option to bushes.

let me know what i can do to go from 0 degrees to somewhere between 3-4 degrees
*bushes
*drop boxes
*carster correct arms

[Ben-e-boy]

All of the above will do that. Including castor plates.

Drop boxes are the #1 pick

[Fireblade]

All of the above will do that. Including castor plates.

Drop boxes are the #1 pick

i did look into drop boxes and couldnt see anywhere about how much caster the change.
https://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au...s-full-bolt-in
https://www.performancesuspension.co...pat-002-p.html
https://www.superiorengineering.com....rol-gqgu-17231

they all say 3-5" lift. i have 2" plus 15mm spring spacers.
i could always just fit them and then get another wheel enlightenment and see what the specs read. but id hate to do all that and have like 5 degree caster and have too much caster

[Bidja]

Guess U put the 15mm spacers in the front to level out veh (front to rear), unladen in the back?

From calculation your 2" spring are not showing signs of sage from your given measurements. It is your choice, I would rather have vehicle sitting up at rear by say 10-15mm unladened to allow for when you load up (with coils only).

Prior to fitting front 15mm spacers, apart from the steering wheel not being in 12 o'clock position, how did it steer/drive?
Note: my steering wheel sits at 11 o'clock when driving in straight line (post 2" lift), just does not bother me that much.

Your chasing caster correction exacerbated by the 15mm front spacers, that might end up costing you $$s for very little gain. Taking into account, you state "not a serious off roader", IMO remove the front spacers, unless you are going to hang significant extra weight off the front and a few extra dollars get a shop to do a wheel alignment and give them to correct caster with bushes. Difficult when you do not have a lot of shop choice. On the other hand, did read you can get alignment for $40 odd, so IMO, remove spacers, do alignment and then fit bushes yourself (maybe 2 Deg) and go do another alignment to see result.

I run 2" lift with 33" tyres and does fine on the tracks. Did run OEM stock size tyres for past 9 yrs before 33s (same driving but yes now a bit more diff clearance).

[Fireblade]

Guess U put the 15mm spacers in the front to level out veh (front to rear), unladen in the back?

From calculation your 2" spring are not showing signs of sage from your given measurements. It is your choice, I would rather have vehicle sitting up at rear by say 10-15mm unladened to allow for when you load up (with coils only).

Prior to fitting front 15mm spacers, apart from the steering wheel not being in 12 o'clock position, how did it steer/drive?
Note: my steering wheel sits at 11 o'clock when driving in straight line (post 2" lift), just does not bother me that much.

Your chasing caster correction exacerbated by the 15mm front spacers, that might end up costing you $$s for very little gain. Taking into account, you state "not a serious off roader", IMO remove the front spacers, unless you are going to hang significant extra weight off the front and a few extra dollars get a shop to do a wheel alignment and give them to correct caster with bushes. Difficult when you do not have a lot of shop choice. On the other hand, did read you can get alignment for $40 odd, so IMO, remove spacers, do alignment and then fit bushes yourself (maybe 2 Deg) and go do another alignment to see result.

I run 2" lift with 33" tyres and does fine on the tracks. Did run OEM stock size tyres for past 9 yrs before 33s (same driving but yes now a bit more diff clearance).

yeh i did put spacers in the front to balance the car when its not loaded.
it use the drive straight with the wheel pointed at 1oclock then brought a adjustable drag link and its now about 1cm shorted and the steering is and 12oclock when going straight.
i didnt notice any real different after fitting the spacers.

im keen to get into some more 4wd and really want to go cape york next year. probably solo and was going to get a winch to so i was thinking spacers would be good to offset the weight from the winch.

i really value the advise given here.
for now ill fit 2degree bushes and tehn see how the drive feels and then for curiousity ill remove the spring pads in the front and use standard 5mm ones and see if its beeter again.
ill also get a wheel allighment done with the bushes installed the compare the readings. dont know if ill get the wheel allighnemtn with the 5mm or 15mm spaced though i will see how the car feels.
if my specs are still way out i might go standard bushes with 3-5"drop boxes and see how that goes.

ive read drop boxes are 4 degree caster so im wondering if i can use bushes to get some negative caster in there to get close to 3.5degree caster.
ill see how the bushes go and feel first. my aim isnt to waste money or time. and i know its not just about getting number spot on its about the real world usage of it.
my aim is the reduce the sharply left pull i have