
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
Interesting..... it seems they are trying to fix the Wrong problem though?
I have the Camber Offset upper Kingpin bearing race and had it for 150,000kms and is a great bit of kit. It is used to address a bit of steering shake (Death Wobbles) and pull to the left. Thats it.
If you can drive down the freeway at 100kms per hour and take your hands off the wheel and it stays true and straight then you don't need the offset camber race. If using the same experiment you drive straight and true and your steering wheel is set at 11oclock but straight and true then your drag link it adjusted incorrectly. In saying that though, what was your first problem that you were trying to fix with the drag link? Why did they say you needed that? I don't get what they were trying to fix using an adjustable drag link on a vehicle without a lift? Seems odd.
The adjustable Drag link specifically joins the steering box with the front left hub, that is all it does. the adjustment is specifically for adjusting the steering wheel to the 12oclock position. It is a Drag link so it is dragged by the steering box to operate the steering rack which is the left hub, tie rod (Behind the diff) and right hub.
If your steering wheel was out of alignment because of an impact with a gutter or something then its a different problem all together and may have slipped on the spline and needs to be removed and repositioned.
I just re-read your original post.
1. The Drag link actually performs No Part of a Wheel alignment, it is simply to realign the steering wheel to 12.
2. The Tie rod on the other hand (Links the front left to the front right) adjust for alignment for toe in and toe out.
3. On a Nissan Patrol the only adjustment you have at an alignment is Toe via the Tie rod (Behind the diff). If your Caster is out then Caster bushes are required but this won't be so on a Standard height vehicle.
4. Camber is only adjustable by fitting an offset bearing race as described.