Sold the Pajero and am picking this up . . .

[Bigcol]

correct Clunky
the AT button is so you can hold the gears longer when towing or under heavy load

my personal opinion of the DC~DC chargers is - its a fraud, use 1 battery to charge the other battery - hang on, N#1 battery now flat...........................

get the Redarc dual battery system, your Alt will charge the starting battery 1st, then charge the 2nd battery

if your going to run a fridge, etc, have them ALL running off the 2nd battery
winch should run off the starting battery ~ cause your going to have the motor running to winch yourself out of mischief, so your Alt will constantly be re-charging your 1st battery while you winch

while you get the dual battery system fitted - get them to fit your Boost Gauge & a Dawes Valve (to regulate the Boost Pressure) at the same time
also get a "catch can" fitted - you would be surprised at the amount of oil fumes that are clogging your MAF sensor..............
once you have them fitted, then get your exhaust fitted
then get it "tuned" by a reasonable Diesel Tuning centre - maybe head to Perth and go to UFI (United Fuel Injection - Gt Eastern Hwy, Redcliffe)

never ever heard of a silly question, so dont be shy and ask if your not too sure

then you know it will be running "hunky dorry"

[Bigcol]

forgot to say,
looks like a nice rig mate.......... well done

[ImRobboToo]

correct Clunky
the AT button is so you can hold the gears longer when towing or under heavy load

my personal opinion of the DC~DC chargers is - its a fraud, use 1 battery to charge the other battery - hang on, N#1 battery now flat...........................

get the Redarc dual battery system, your Alt will charge the starting battery 1st, then charge the 2nd battery

if your going to run a fridge, etc, have them ALL running off the 2nd battery
winch should run off the starting battery ~ cause your going to have the motor running to winch yourself out of mischief, so your Alt will constantly be re-charging your 1st battery while you winch

while you get the dual battery system fitted - get them to fit your Boost Gauge & a Dawes Valve (to regulate the Boost Pressure) at the same time
also get a "catch can" fitted - you would be surprised at the amount of oil fumes that are clogging your MAF sensor..............
once you have them fitted, then get your exhaust fitted
then get it "tuned" by a reasonable Diesel Tuning centre - maybe head to Perth and go to UFI (United Fuel Injection - Gt Eastern Hwy, Redcliffe)

never ever heard of a silly question, so dont be shy and ask if your not too sure

then you know it will be running "hunky dorry"

Awesome, this is the info I need.
I will just put in a decent battery with isolator then.
I have the Dawes Valve MK 2 - Needle Valve - EGR Plate - Di Combo Kit on its way. They will have a big job, as I have the UNIDEN UH8080S NB 80 CHANNEL UHF+SCANNER+AT870 with 6.5DB BLK ANTENNA, as well as a Anderson Plug to run to the rear, and the frige power for the back to go in too . . .
I'll keep UFI in my mind, as I want it done right first time.

forgot to say,
looks like a nice rig mate.......... well done

Cheers mate. I'm very happy, and not bad for 8K. Leaves me room to add some good stuff

[Bigcol]

Matt at UFI knows Nissan's very well

so you wont go wrong in going there

where abouts in the great southern are you?

[Rock Trol]

Ah ok, so if I spend good $$ on a Battery, then I wont need the added on charger then .

I was typing on the phone while at work so I probably should have added more info to my original post. The DCC battery charges are useful when charging batteries that require a much higher voltage to be charged fully such as AGM and Calcium deep cycle batteries which tend to be the more expensive types of battery. Also, AGM batteries don't like a lot of amps so the battery charger limits the amps sent to the battery and can vary them depending on temperature and what part of the charge cycle. The charger can supply up to 15 volts (for Calcium batteries) while the alternator only does a max of 14.1 volts on my truck and not for long.

If you are planning on buying a hybrid battery similar to your starter as the second battery (Exide Extreme, Century Overlander etc.) then the battery isolator is all you need and maybe give it a charge with a 240 volt charger when at home. If you are planning on an AGM under the bonnet then a DC;DC charger is the go. About 2.5 years ago I needed a new auxiliary battery and was comparing a Century marine battery and a DEKA AGM battery from the US. Century was $199 and DEKA was $350 on sale. I wanted to try the new technology and went with the AGM. Then a few weeks later I decided to protect my new investment and bought a Redarc 1220 charger off ebay ($320) and installed it myself. In hindsight its not a cost effective way of doing it as the AGM is starting to show signs of not holding a charge as well as it used to. I have run the recondition mode on the battery with my c-tek but it has not made a difference. It still works but it needs to last a long time to pay itself off. The $199 wet cell battery (with the standard isolator that the car came with) would have been a much better and cheaper choice.

So the moral of the story is when you go to buy your battery know what chemistry type you want and the charging method. Simply looking at price and saying the higher the price or the more modern the chemistry type must mean it will last longer is not true.

EDIT - The advantage of an AGM battery is that it charges faster than a wet cell and can also be discharged to a lower state. It can also be used inside a car as it wont spill or vent acid. For an under bonnet install the wet cell is a better choice as it resists heat better and as long as you use the car regularly or top up with a solar panel then speed of recharge isn't an issue. In real life the difference in charge rate between the two types is negligible.

[ImRobboToo]

Matt at UFI knows Nissan's very well

so you wont go wrong in going there

where abouts in the great southern are you?

Katanning boy. Returned after 20yrs away.

Ah ok, so if I spend good $$ on a Battery, then I wont need the added on charger then .

I was typing on the phone while at work so I probably should have added more info. The DCC battery charges are useful when charging batteries that require a much higher voltage to be charged fully such as AGM and Calcium deep cycle batteries which tend to be the more expensive types of battery. Also, AGM batteries don't like a lot of amps so the battery charger limits the amps sent to the battery and can vary them depending on temperature and what part of the charge cycle. The charger can supply up to 15 volts (for Calcium batteries) while the alternator only does a max of 14.1 volts on my truck and not for long.

If you are planning on buying a hybrid battery similar to your starter as the second battery (Exide Extreme, Century Overlander etc.) then the battery isolator is all you need and maybe give it a charge with a 240 volt charger when at home. If you are planning on an AGM under the bonnet then a DC;DC charger is the go. About 2.5 years ago I needed a new auxiliary battery and was comparing a Century marine battery and a DEKA AGM battery from the US. Century was $199 and DEKA was $350 on sale. I wanted to try the new technology and went with the AGM. Then a few weeks later I decided to protect my new investment and bought a Redarc 1220 charger off ebay ($320) and installed it myself. In hindsight its not a cost effective way of doing it as the AGM is starting to show signs of not holding a charge as well as it used to. I have run the recondition mode on the battery with my c-tek but it has not made a difference. It still works but it needs to last a long time to pay itself off. The $199 wet cell battery (with the standard isolator that the car came with) would have been a much better and cheaper choice.

So the moral of the story is when you go to buy your battery know what chemistry type you want and the charging method. Simply looking at price and saying the higher the price or the more modern the chemistry type must mean it will last longer is not true.

Will keep that in mind. I think I'll just be going the Isolator and Century then.

Cheers


Tapping it out . . .

[ImRobboToo]

While I'm here, and so I can order tomorrow, what colour code is the Grey interior ?? G, W or K ?? I own a Mac so can't download nissanfast so if anyone know, so I can order a Pillar pod, that would be great.

Cheers



Tapping it out . . .

[ImRobboToo]

Found it on the Plate . . . I'm a K interior


Tapping it out . . .

[Bigcol]

Katanning boy. Returned after 20yrs away.

ahhhhh yes............ I have Family down there - lots and lots of family dont see them alot though............

[ImRobboToo]

EDIT - The advantage of an AGM battery is that it charges faster than a wet cell and can also be discharged to a lower state. It can also be used inside a car as it wont spill or vent acid. For an under bonnet install the wet cell is a better choice as it resists heat better and as long as you use the car regularly or top up with a solar panel then speed of recharge isn't an issue. In real life the difference in charge rate between the two types is negligible.

New types of batteries, new Tech, it all gets overwhelming, but the edit makes sense. . . . Will see what the local sparky has in stock.

Thanks for that info RT

ahhhhh yes............ I have Family down there - lots and lots of family dont see them alot though............

Ive been a KA boy since '79' then ran away and joined the Army. Been away for 20+ yrs, and the place hasnt changed much at all, and for a SuperTown, it hasnt really got the infrastructure to refleck that. Im hapy to be back in the country. Hated driving in the East with the amount of traffic, and only recently getting 2 lanes from Syd - Melb it came all too late for me.
A lot of families i knew, are still around, we have just gotten older lol

Well, in the next 3-4 weeks, i have this list going into the Patrol:

• Going the IronMan direction for my lift - 2"
• Dominator 3" Stainless Exhaust
• Redarc Dual Battery System
• RaceTech EGT and Boost Gauge
• Dawes valve and Needle
• EGR Plate
• Upgrading my lightforce 170 hallogen to HID with a Upgrade kit (looking at a 22" lightbar to sit on the Roof Rack
• Uniden UH8080S NB 80 Channel UHF & Scanner w/ AT870 6.5db Antenna
• RAM iPad Air Mount to hold iPad with MudMaps installed running through a Bad Elf Pro+ GPS
• Set of Titan Drawers for the back with wings
• 50Lt Waeco Fridge/Freezer
• Full Length Roof Rack
• 2mtr Awning off passenger side, and a little one off the rear
• Thumper Air Compressor
• IronMan 48" Hi Lift Jack
• Anderson plug through to rear bumper for charging the Trailer Batterie, running through a Ctek Multi XS25000

Its all on order, i just need it too arrive.

After this and Xmas is out the way, i will look at:

1. Front Air Lockers
2. 12000lb winch
3. In dash dedicated GPS/Stereo unit (Hoping too get one for xmas)

All the electrics will be done by a sparky, but trying to find a sparky in town (there is only the one in a workshop but looking for another, because i dont like the work this one does) is proving difficult. Im not a Auto Electrician, so i want it done, once, and right the first time.
Will attaempt the mechanical stuff myself, with a little help from here. I suppose I need a CatchCan too, so yea, add that too the list.

Photos as it happens