Hi Jack and welcome back to Patrols. The CRD motor has a totally different fuel management system and they don't fail at the rate of the Di's. They have the same failure rates as other companies diesels (have mate in RAA).
First thing is to get tig welded inter cooler. Don't put that off. If you plan to remap ecu or chip it etc then go an upgraded ic but if happy to keep fairly stock then standard size is fine.
Next is the the scangauge as it reads faults and clears them as well as giving you engine info such as MAP, water temp, fuel usage, alternator output etc. let's you see what the engine sees. For $200 it's worth it. Just the engine water temp it displays can save the engine as it is almost instant and can show you what the engine is doing.
Then if if you want you can try a egr block. Scangauge will tell you if it's over boosting. If you keep the standard exhaust then should be fine. If bigger exhaust and egr block then over boosting for sure.
Cleaning the intake manifold of gunk is also important. Recently had Wynns egr cleaner put through the old girl and WOW! What a difference. Plan to use it next service until I don't see any more improvement. If you don't block egr then this might be a good regular service item to keep the intake manifold clear. Not as good as removing and cleaning by hand but I have to say the engine breathing improved dramatically with one can.
in my opinion either just do the few mods above as the CRD is a much different engine to the Di or go the whole hog. Not much middle ground. I opted for everything and while its cost me around the $5000 mark in engine mods it really has improved the performance.
Also so as to CRD being hotter. The ecu adds extra fuel at the end of the combustion cycle to promote the cat cleaning the exhaust emissions so if you have e g t gauge you will be shocked by temps. Up to 700 or 800 when towing up hill if not careful. They are the reports from some users. It's designed to do this.
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